Pandora's Box

[Jason Steele]

Hi,
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
I am about to embark on finishing my bench tops and I still have a sinking feeling that either I have read too much and forgotten what I’ve read or maybe the answer is somewhere out there with the earths mysteries.
Fortunately I have waded through heaps and heaps of informative threads on the merits of oil finishes and to compound it those of Random Orbital Sanders.
<o:p></o:p>
Based on what I understand (yet I think I understand) (or maybe I just don’t know yet) (feel free to correct me) is that I like the Idea of the Organ oil for my Messmate bench tops. Well I thought I was right to go from then!!
Then came the merit and importance of technic!!!!
Which opened up another Pandora’s box on Sanding both dry and Wet and purchasing a ROS.
<o:p></o:p>
Heres the thing, I cut the planks out of a very large tree on my property, sent them off for kiln drying and now their off at the joiners. Being relatively in experienced (but very interested) in finishing and fine timberwork I really have ONE SHOT at getting it right!
<o:p></o:p>
So I guess I’m calling for your infinite wisdom in piling through the darkness.
<o:p></o:p>
Question. 1. Do I need a sedative !!
2. Boch 150 AC ROS worth the investment ( Will it do the job)
3. The instructions refer to sanding to 400 grit then follow more instructions then go to 1200-1500-2000 wet and dry Dose the ROS burnish?? And are discs available in wet and dry If not do you use a sanding Block?
<o:p></o:p>
If you could possibly shed some light I would be most grateful and post some pic!!

P.S I used to think I was uncertain, now I think I’m unsure…Well at least I think I am….but maybe I just don’t know!

[ubeaut]

I've got nothing against Organoil, but.......

DON"T DO IT!!! :eek:

That's all I have to say on the subject.... Now I'm out of here.

[martrix]

I've got nothing against Organoil, but.......

DON"T DO IT!!! :eek:

That's all I have to say on the subject.... Now I'm out of here.

I second that................http://www.ubeaut.biz/nuts.gif

[Jason Steele]

Thanks guys,

New to this site, I was hoping for at least a little pointer. Left somewhat dissmayed. between the both of you there as been inexcess of over 553 threads. Purhaps you may consider that the very reason that I joined the site was to be part of a community with somthing in common.
I guess I just wanted a leg up.

Cheers:confused:

[echnidna]

Its a lot better to have an impervious finish in a kitchen so you can clean up easier and so stains don't go into the timber.
Suitable finishes are polyurethane or lacquer.
Maybe Neils hard shellac is ok too.

[Jason Steele]

Bob,

Would it still be wise to go for the ROS?

[echnidna]

The ROS will save a lot of work.
You really don't need to go any finer than 150 grit.
The commercial factories don't and they get top class finishes.

Got me beat why the hobbiests go to such fine grits.

[Jason Steele]

I'm not sure what the final sand is when I get it back from Bowerbird timber Salvage. What I have seen was fairly smooth, purhaps I can save my money and buy the new Makita Jigsaw.

Anyway Thanks for taking the time out.


Cheers

[DJ’s Timber]

G'day Jason

Most stuff that comes from B/bird has been sanded 60 or 80 grit, you will definitly need to do some more sanding
Out of interest, are you getting slabs or boards
Slabs are normally sanded on the 1500mm wide sander
Boards are normally run thru the thicknesser
I know this cause I normally transport the slabs to the sander

Cheers DJ

[Jason Steele]

There 200 wide boards, I think there sending to a contact who is joining them. Talking to the guys I got the idea that they would sand them after filling up the holes. Haven't done this type of stuff before. (Mostly chippy work) I do have some large slabs in my hay shed but they were so heave that I couldn't get them to the Kiln drier without a tandam tailer.

The largest width of the centre bench is onlt 1080 wide the benchs are 620mm

Do you transport for them?

[DJ’s Timber]

Hi Jason

I normally do the fiddly transport jobs for them
When I take stuff to sanders I also help to sand slabs as well cause it comes back the same day
What timber are you getting joined cause I think I might be going to sanders this week
I know that there is about 9 liniel metres of 700mm wide vic ash slabs on the list

Cheers DJ

[Jason Steele]

It's Messmate about 17 @3.2, 2 @2.5"]2 @2.5, 3 @1.8"]3 @1.8 200 x 45mm

It's all stitting on the cutting bench. I spoke to a guy on Friday, poor bloke. The phone arn't working the place got broken into. Anyway the Tim was arranging the stuff to go to where the joinery gets done. Only thing is that he is booked up till Tim gets back. I understand that he did a Butterfly joint in one of the slabs there that looks unreal, so guess it's worth the wait.

Jason

[DJ’s Timber]

Jason

That is some nice looking messmate
I was there on Thursday morning and had a peek at that stuff
Lotsa nice figure in that stuff
I would invest your money in a ROS as you will need to do some more sanding once you get the timber
You could get Tim to sand it up to a good finish but it will cost a few more dollars
You fill find that the ROS will come in handy for a lot of other jobs as well
I have 125mm Metabo and the Triton attachment for the angle grinder and I will be buying the 150mm Metabo in the next few weeks

Cheers DJ

[Jason Steele]

Go The price on the Metabo 150 Duo $380 I guess it's only an extra 40 bucks ontop of the Bosch.

I got about 18 5" post from the but of the tree and a truck load of 5" x 2" as well as some odds and sods. There is another 3 or 4 trees on my place that I keep looking up at thinking mmm.

I buit a garden arbor a few months after in was cut and it really hasn't moved at all. All the plumb cuts are still or spot on. Not bad for green timber.

I enjoyed watching the milling taking place (more so than stacking the timber). I'ts good to see an old tree continue it's life after.

Cheers.

P.S. I struggled finding a Kiln Drier in the "hill area". Tim put me on to a guy in Carrum Downs. I rthick he did a good job?? but oh god it was like pecked to death by a duck. It wasn't going to kill me but!!!!

Once the Kitchen is up and going I want to try working with the Slabs


Cheers
Jason

[martrix]

Minwax wipe-on poly.....simple and tough (http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/wipe-on.cfm)

a quick search.... (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/search.php?searchid=816296)

[DJ’s Timber]

Yeah, know what you mean
Once the mill get their kiln back up and running it will be great
Choice Timbers in Kilstyh do kiln drying as well
They have quite a big set up there, it miight pay to get some prices from them as well

Cheers DJ

[Jason Steele]

Really appriciate the leg up on this product. I really love the love of the oil finishes but I didn't sit right on this job. I have a small Red Gum Square slab I might use that to play with Oi;l rather than a hole bloody Kitchen.



Cheers

[Jason Steele]

I'll check them out next time. Tim did give me the heads up about the other bloke but I had no choice. Go to say, if your willing to wait and then wait alittle more he is really I good bloke and not too expensive.


Cheers

[soundman]

Just a point here jason.

dont forget to finish the underside of the slab too. this should minimise its tendancy to warp.

I've seen a couple of clasic examples of this.

big slab bench warped...... Hmmmm...... no finish on the bottom.

cheers

[Jason Steele]

Thanks Soundman,

Should I just use the same product as the top?

[Iain]

Yes, all round, and pay attention to the end grain.
NC could be an option too (when it warms up a bit), very durable finish for a kitchen and a few coats can go on in a short space of time.
Gembrook could be a bit of a problem at the moment though with the dampness as this can cause a few problems when spraying, unless you have a nice warm, dry shed.

[soundman]

same product same number of coats, you dont need to be quite as fussy with the sanding but rough one side & smoothe the other isn't a good idea.
cheers

[ubeaut]

Jason - I didn't reply further because of www.ubeaut.biz (http://www.ubeaut.biz) however I felt a warning against what you intended to do was appropriate.

Polyurethane, epoxy, nitrocellulose or maybe Hard Shellac, any should be much better in the long term an oil. A good ROS is a really good investment.

Once again I really have nothing more to say on this one.

Cheers - Neil :)

[Jason Steele]

Thanks all fpor your advise and tips. I shall post the pics when finished.

Cheers:)