Newbie finisher - advice needed !

[Mr Brush]

I've recently completed two fairly large pieces in Tassie Oak (mix of veneered board and solid); an entertainment unit and a small side table.

I had originally intended to finish these with organoil (the only finish I've ever used btw...:eek: ), as I was originally quite keen on the light pinkish tones of the timber. However, since the furniture took so long to build :( , almost everything else in the rooms concerned is of a darker colour, e.g. a brushbox coffee table, NG walnut mantel, etc..

So.....for the first time.......I need to incorporate a change of colour into my finishing regime. I don't have to exactly colour match to anything else, but some kind of mid-tone will prevent the new items clashing too much. The entertainment unit in particular is now fully assembled, sanded to around 320 grit all over, but has a few fiddly shelves that prevent the use of any spray-on finishes.

Requirements are:-

- a reasonably fade-resistant colour, as the furniture gets some sun on it from time to time
- a semi-matt finish, won't show fingermarks, etc.
- must be wipe on, and easy for a newbie to get good results :D

Can anyone suggest a brand/product that might work for me? Also, are there any other tricks in preparation that I should be aware of? I've sanded to 320 grit, but should I be using any kind of grain filler, etc. on Tassie Oak before applying the finish?

Any advice would be much appreciated, as I may not be allowed to buy any more toys until these pieces are completed and in use !!!!!!

Cheers

[RufflyRustic]

Hi Mr Brush

Neil put up a really good link recently. It might be of interest to you.
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=32191

UBeaut's Hard Shellac will darken the timber, but no where near dark enough to compare to walnut. You can also look at his range of water dyes. With these, you'd be able to colour the timber and then finish coat with this wondrous Hard Shellac. The more coats of hard shellac, the shinier the finish. Once it is fully cured, it is a great hard wearing finish.

From one newbie finisher to another, my finishes have improved out of sight since I got UBeaut's Book of Finishing, their white and hard shellac, EEE and Traditional wax, and then practised and practised.....:)

Tassie oak does come up beautifully with organoil, but I prefer the shellac, IMHO.

Anyway, best of luck finishing this piece. There's no way I could not answer, especially if you weren't going to be able to do anything else :D

Have Fun
Cheers
Wendy

[Harry72]

Hello Basil!
"but has a few fiddly shelves that prevent the use of any spray-on finishes."

Spraying can get in very tight spaces... tighter than a brush(no pun intended). If you can get your hand in to wipe on a finish spraying will get there as well!
Are you able to remove the backing board(s)?

[Mr Brush]

Thanks for the link Wendy - very interesting !

I had already dabbled with water-based stains without much success, trying to find something that would stay put when coated with organoil afterwards (very hit and miss). Presumably a coat or two of shellac over a water-based stain might work better? I was led to believe that oil-based stains would penetrate better than water-based, and be easier to apply in a uniform manner. Just not sure what type of oil-based stain would be best.

The ebonising solution looks worth a try though (I never knew such a thing existed....:o ), especially at his prices. I might see if I can get hold of a copy of the instructions first to make sure it will create the effect I am after.

Thanks again for your help. Maybe it is time for me to boldly go beyond the realms of organoil - shellac here I come !! :D