handrail help

[Dan_574]

I want to re do my handrail and I want the design below, a couple of things the balusters will be 66x18 primed treated pine and the rails will be 90x18 primed treated pine, the average distance between post is about 2750, I know I will need to put a block or something in the centre to support it but will the 3 lots of 18mm timber be strong enough outways, sideways (what ever you want to call it), the handrail top adds strength as well i suppose. What do you guys reckon.

[ThePope]

will the 3 lots of 18mm timber be strong enough outways

on it's own no, but you're adding a capping on top which is where all the sideways strength comes from.

don't use 20mm timber for the top, too thin and it will look a shocker :)
150x50 or there abouts is a good size for capping.

the bottom "rail" will need centre suppot as you mentioned but also allow for that sideways movement and try and lock it in place.

[Carpenter]

Nice design Dan. I can see what you're trying to achieve & as Pope says, maybe a thicker top rail. Hold a piece up & see how it looks....maybe the 20mm will look OK, but out in the weather it will tend to cup or bow whereas 30mm will be a lot more resistant to this movement. I think it will be strong enough with the sandwich arrangment you've got going there, but I would be tempted to screw it all knowing how timber moves around after some time out in the elements. An important change I would make is to replace the exterior glue with a Polyurethane joint adhesive like Sikaflex. Its expensive, but you're effectively sealing the joint between the capping piece & the top of the balusters, & this is what will give you extended life, no doubt about it. How are you going to make/fix the balusters to the bottom rail? Have a look at the Festool website & Domino Joiner interactive page. Its got an example of this exact situation using the Domino tenons to join into a bottom rail. Could be a good way to justify to SWMBO the next purchase.....

[Dan_574]

Thanks guys I was starting to think no one cared.

I got the design out of one of those handyman mags, it doesnt really say how the balusters are connected to the bottom rail, it would just be the same as the top sandwiched between the two 90x18 rails nailed or screwed.

[Carry Pine]

The wife wants to know what that yellow thing with the bubble in it is (photo 3). She is offering to buy me one for Fathers' Day if they work on our place. I just hope tyhey come with an instruction manual.

[Dan_574]

i'd have to look in the magazine to see what it says, I'll get back to you.

[normell]

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=516 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=nameResult vAlign=top noWrap width=244>Harcourt Pine Centre
Coolstore Rd Harcourt 3453
(03) 5474 2600
Make a some very attractive balusters

Normell
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[Dan_574]

heres another question, do I use pre-primed treated pine or just DAR treated pine, $700 cheaper to use DAR (KD of course)

[scooter]

The DAR dry T/Pine will be fine, the pre primed will most likely be LOSP treated, (different treatment type to CCA or ACQ, fine provided it is primed and painted and used above ground), and possibly clear pine (no knots) hence the price difference.

Just select your stock so you don't have sizeable knots that will affect the required strength.

Cheers..............Sean

[Dan_574]

thx scooter, I may be able to use the pre primed stuff, bunnies at coburg have it at the same price, hopefully they can do an order for me for the lengths I need.