Glueing and filling

[hornwood]

G'day all. Got some nice old bridge timbers I'm doing up for a guy but some of the cracks and old bolt holes need filling. I've used the 'WestSystem' product before and although a great product(finishes well), it is a bit messy to use. I've seen another product which is a 2 part mixture with a thicker consistency that dosn't tend to run out the cracks and also finishes very smooth. If anyone can give me some clues as to what this product is called (or similar product) and where to get it, I would be very appreciative. I'm 50ks north of melb. near Hurstbridge.
Y'all have a good weekend!

[Auld Bassoon]

G'day Hornwood,

Depending on how clear you want the expoxy to be, West also supply a fine powder filler to increase the viscosity.

[Richardwoodhead]

Hornwood, I think the product you're looking for is called Technieglue. Over here in the west there is also a thicker consistency epoxy called Conglue.

But like Steve says, you can thicken West System by adding the microfibre they sell (don't breath it in while you're mixing).Or even adding fine sawdust (180 grit off the belt sander) from the piece you're filling. That way you can get a close match.

Richard

[hornwood]

Cheers for that guys, forgot about the additive to westsystem. Most of the fills will have black pigment added anyway so clarity won't be a problem. Some places I had thought about a clear fill however and some of the cracks and crevices are pretty deep. Is there a technique to avoid getting the air bubbles? Techniglue rings a bell, and thankyou, I'll check it out. Any other advice, please keep it coming.. appreciate it all. http://www.woodworkforums.com/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Auld Bassoon]

Cheers for that guys, forgot about the additive to westsystem. Most of the fills will have black pigment added anyway so clarity won't be a problem. Some places I had thought about a clear fill however and some of the cracks and crevices are pretty deep. Is there a technique to avoid getting the air bubbles? Techniglue rings a bell, and thankyou, I'll check it out. Any other advice, please keep it coming.. appreciate it all. http://www.woodworkforums.com/images/icons/icon14.gif

You need a "Bubble Magnet"









































Sorry! just kidding :D

[Justin]

I'm not sure what west system comprises of, but when using epoxy the general consensus is to use a hot air gun to get rid if bubbles.


Justin.

[scottyk]

Remember that West Epoxies are thicker when cold and therfore wont run out of the cracks as easily. So do the job at a time of day that will give you at least three hours of cool weather so that it can gel up before the temp goes up.
Scotty

[hornwood]

Nice advice, cheers all. Will definately have to get that bubble magnet though! Does it only work on clear bubbles, or can I use it with the pigmented compounds also???

I'm in King Lake so the opportunity for cold filling is almost upon me. Just wondering though, how do the epoxys go setting when the temp dosn't get above 10 degs.?? Will I need to add something else if I want it to go off overnight and sand the next day? Also wondering if anyone has had any probs with moisture in the air while using the West- does it affect the colour or clarity? Living in the clouds for 4 months of the year may pose some difficulties, least of all trying to keep warm.

[Auld Bassoon]

Check the manufacturer's data sheets, but I think if the temp. doesn't exceed 10C, you'll have a problem with curing.

Can you bring the workpieces into the house overnight, or failing that, have some low level background heating in the shed to keep that temp at 15C or a little higher? Even an insulated box with a 100w filament light bulb would probably do the trick.

I don't think that high humidity is an issue with epoxy, but again, check the data sheets - or give the local distributors a call.