Question for Wipe on Poly users

[Peter36]

I bought some satin Minwax wipe on poly 12 months or so ago and have just tried it on a project . The surface remains very slightly tacky after 12 hours . Is this normal? Its being applied to Tas Myrtle:confused:

[martrix]

Hi Peter, I have only tested the Gloss wipe on, and it always dried in about half an hour to an hour, no tackiness to speak of.

this is probably a stupid question, but had you applied anything else prior to applying the Minwax? what was the temp? high humidity?

[Des.K.]

I think you might need to buy some more, Peter.

I've only used the gloss, but it should be quite watery out of the can. If not, it's probably dried out a bit, and, I think, useless. I had half a can unused for about four months, and it ended up with the consistency of thick Estapol. I threw it out.

The can (gloss) recommends three or four hours for dying, but on a reasonable day, it shouldn't take much more than an hour or so, and there shouldn't be any tackiness at all.

I reckon the stuff is great, and very easy to use.

[MF3106]

I've just bought some, and am using it on a bed I've just made - very happy with the results and ease of use so far.

From other posts does there seem to be a shelf life, is there anything that can be done to extend product life one opened.


Regards

[MF3106]

I posted a question on the Miniwax website re wipe on poly. Below is the very prompt reply I received.

"Thank you for taking the time to write. The average shelf life for the
Wipe-On Poly is 5 years unopened. This shelf life is 5 years from
production date printed on the can lid.

When a can has been opened, the solvents in the product are exposed to air.
The air between the lid and the unused portion (of product) will begin to
age the product. Once the solvents have evaporated from product, the
product (resins) begins to gel. You may reduce the Wipe-On Poly with 100%
pure mineral spirits up to 15%. Generally a 5-10% reduction will
rejuvenate the film.

Next Storage Period
To extend the shelf life of the product:
1.) Pour the remaining product into a smaller can, minimizing the open air
pocket from product to lid.
OR
2.) Pour mineral spirits into can to cover the remaining product, before
sealing lid. Just enough to cover the unused portion. The mineral spirits
will act as a vapor barrier and will evaporate before air begins to hit
product. If you use the product before the mineral spirits have
evaporated, you can stir the mineral spirits into remaining product. (The
mineral spirits will not weaken the performance of the product)"

[martrix]

Excellent info, well done.

Maybe a question should be put to them regarding the stoopid friggin lid!

Every time I use it, I wipe off excess product from the tin mouth and the lid, yet when I next open it I have to use multi-grips! The threaded lip on the tin is almost ready to shear off.


......................great gear though:rolleyes:

[martrix]

Did some searches on mineral spirits, and came out a little confused.

Minwax suggested 'thinning with mineral spirits', so would White spirit be suitable or Mineral turps? sorry to drag it up....

[Rocker]

Martrix,

New stock of Minwax wipe-on poly no longer has a screw-in metal cap. Instead, it has a plastic lid which snaps into the closed position; you open it by levering it up with a screwdriver.

Rocker

[martrix]

Cool, thanks Rocker.
I bought a tin about a month ago, so maybe the new stock hasn't filtered down to Mexico yet.

Sounds like the people at Minwax are on the ball.

[Peter36]

Do'nt put it on too thick-takes longer to dry :o
Do'nt use a piece of Bonds singlet for an applicator - leaves rib marks :(
Otherwise a graet finish:)

Peter

[Rocker]

Peter,

A comparative test of wipe-on finishes was described in a recent article in FW #178. Minwax wipe-on poly came out very well in that test. The author's method of application was to apply the finish with a cloth, adding more finish as dry spots appeared. After 15 minutes the excess was wiped off. This latter operation, wiping off the excess, is not mentioned in the instructions on the can, but I found it makes a big difference to the quality of the finish.

Rocker

[Auld Bassoon]

Cool, thanks Rocker.
I bought a tin about a month ago, so maybe the new stock hasn't filtered down to Mexico yet.

Sounds like the people at Minwax are on the ball.

Hmmm, I bought some MinWax Gloss about eight months ago and the can has the plastic screwdriver opened lid that Rocker mentions.

I find the stuff almost Bassoon proof, and that, believe me, is a recommendation! :D

Also, as per Rocker's comment, I apply quite liberally, then wipe off the excess. I also use three rags, one for the application, one for the first wipe off, and final clean one for the last. I also still tend to give the third and/or penultimate coat a light scuff with 1200 W&D when hard prior to the final coat.

[Peter36]

Glad I put that question up . There has been a lot of good info as a result and I would prefer to use a more friendly finish like wipe on poly rather than spray as my spray set up leaves a lot to be desired - in front of an open garage door. But it is quicker

[DPB]

I've also discovered that it goes onto an oiled surface very well. I like the grain filling properties of Organoil's Hard Burnish Oil. It also fills in any minor gaps where a joint isn't quite perfect. After 24 hours though, the nice glow you thought that you were achieving with Organoil begins to dull and fade. That's when I apply the MinWax Wipe-On Poly. It brings the glow back and after 48 hours of curing is as hard as nails. :)

[Ingin]

I have not used the wipe on Miniwax, is it a similar product to estapol only a wipe on thus eliminating those dreaded brush marks?
Where is it stocked? Bunnies?

[Auld Bassoon]

Yep

[woodwork wally]

I have not used the wipe on Miniwax, is it a similar product to estapol only a wipe on thus eliminating those dreaded brush marks?
Where is it stocked? Bunnies?

Hi Ingin No it is not like estapol It is more like french polishing The purchase point is correct though :rolleyes:. It is not suitable for the likes of floors:no:although can be used to touch up low wear spots . but does give a good finish to wood projects where a quality wood has been used :2tsup:. :2tsup:Hope that helps Regards Wally

[Honorary Bloke]

Hi Ingin No it is not like estapol It is more like french polishing The purchase point is correct though :rolleyes:. It is not suitable for the likes of floors:no:although can be used to touch up low wear spots . but does give a good finish to wood projects where a quality wood has been used :2tsup:. :2tsup:Hope that helps Regards Wally

I hope that she has figured it out in the year since she posted. :p BTW, Wally, poly is not a bit like French Polishing but you do get a high gloss if you choose the high gloss poly. :)

[RufflyRustic]

Yeah, the thread's a bit old:rolleyes:, but I tell you what, it is still a darn good one:2tsup:. This is one thread I'll be printing out and keeping in my book of hints/tips.

cheers
Wendy

[MacS]

I don't know if the question about Mineral Spirits was answered, but White Spirits and Mineral Spirits are the exact same solvents.
PS -So, is Mineral Turps, buy the cheapest one of these 3.

[rsser]

Yes; Bunnies usually carries White spirits.

Also as noted in other threads you can reduce the air in the can by adding marbles as the level drops, and some folk recommend decanting oil-based finishes into an empy 2l wine cask bladder.

[Honorary Bloke]

I, for one, add marbles to the can to keep the level up. So far, it works well. Else it wll quickly skim over and cause trouble. :)

[But, it's tough on the marbles. :D]

[Big Shed]

I don't know if the question about Mineral Spirits was answered, but White Spirits and Mineral Spirits are the exact same solvents.
PS -So, is Mineral Turps, buy the cheapest one of these 3.

Mac, I have addressed the differences in the other thread, but here is my reply in case you missed it.


Hi Wendy,

Our (USA) Mineral Spiirits is the same exact solvent as your (UK & AUS) White Spirits, or your Spirit Turpentine. Buy the cheapest one sold.

Polyurethane, is basically the same as your natural varnish resins, except Polyurethane is made from man-made synthetic resins. It is consided a "reactive coating" meaning it does not redisolve once cured, where as, the Shellacs and Nitro Lacquers which are "evaporative coatings" will disolve over and over whenever recoated.


Mac, there is no such product in Australia as Spirit Turpentine. We have 2 main hydrocarbon solvents, Mineral Turpentine (http://www.diggersaust.com.au/files/White%20Spirit.pdf) and White Spirit (http://www.diggersaust.com.au/files/White%20Spirit.pdf)
As well as differences in boiling range, density and vapour density, the biggest difference is in aromatics content. Mineral Turps is much higher in aromatics (46-48%) than White Spirit (16%), hence Mineral Turps has better "cutting" power, ie it thins out an enamel much quicker than White Spirit. Because of the lower aromatics, White Spirits is the solvent of choice for sign writing enamels for use on polycarbonate, if Mineral Turps was used here it would induce stress cracking in the polycarbonate.
It also makes White Spirit the solvent of choice in cheaper enamels, you can bung more in to reach a given viscosity.

There are other differences, but I think the above illustrates that these 2 solvents are not the same.

Wendy, if you want to try and thin the Minwax Poly, use the Mineral Turps rather than the White Spirits. It is at best a temporary solution (excuse the pun) though.

[astrid]

as mentioned on the other thread,
once opened store upside down

astrid

[MacS]

Big Shed,

I answered you on the other thread.

I meant to write "Spirit Turpentine" which is a petroleum distillate, and not Turpentine at all. Whereas, the turpentine comes from Pine trees, there are two kinds, wood and gum. The gum is the better one, it is distilled from the sap of the trees, whereas, the wood if first destroyed by burning and then distilled.

It is a Mineral Spirit "sister solvent" and is classified as such according to the commericail MSDS.

Whatever,

Cheers

[MacS]

By turning the cans upside down, the bottom oil will work, but the oil that is now on top of the can will skim and still harden over. There is air up there.

You need to remove the air with Bloxygen, use smaller jars, or fill the oil with marbles to the tops.

[ravlord13]

I use wipe on polly as a base coat on the boxes and clocks I make, as a top coat I have found cannuba wax gives it a brilliant touchy feely finish.
Sometimes when I have used Huon Pine or Red Myrtle the finish feels tacky and will not seem to dry, that is why I started using the wax.
A local woodie I talked to about this suggested that it was probably the oil in the timber.

[munruben]

Why not make your own. apparently this is similar to Minwax wipe on polyurethane.


3 Parts-Polyurethane (Any Sheen, Any Brand)
2 Parts-Mineral Spirits
1. Apply finish with a rag
2. After drying, buff with 000 steel wool
3. Repeat until desired gloss is achieved



Might be the way to go if you need a small quantity for a small project.

[robyn2839]

Why not make your own. apparently this is similar to Minwax wipe on polyurethane.


3 Parts-Polyurethane (Any Sheen, Any Brand)
2 Parts-Mineral Spirits
1. Apply finish with a rag
2. After drying, buff with 000 steel wool
3. Repeat until desired gloss is achieved



Might be the way to go if you need a small quantity for a small project.
and probably would be 1/3 of the price ,sounds good to me....bob

[cellist]

Why not make your own. apparently this is similar to Minwax wipe on polyurethane.


3 Parts-Polyurethane (Any Sheen, Any Brand)
2 Parts-Mineral Spirits
1. Apply finish with a rag
2. After drying, buff with 000 steel wool
3. Repeat until desired gloss is achieved



Might be the way to go if you need a small quantity for a small project.

In my experience, the cocktail described above is pretty close to the truth, but it will be a very thin mix indeed. Have had great success with about 20 percent turps and then 0000 rather than 000 steel wool. Build the coats. The beauty of the thinning is also that it takes far, far less time to go off. I've also found that there is no problem with putting on subsequent coats once the surface is touch dry. Anyone have any problems doing that? I was afraid that it might out-gas under the new coat, but nup...didn't do it. Polyurethane has a beaut way of chemically bonding with itself, so lay it on over and over. I use a piece of cloth baby nappy, but have been tempted to experiment with some fine, store-bought linen....maybe one day...

After the final coat, again I rub it back with the 0000, and then apply Gilly Stephenson's carnauba wax/polish. Hard to rub, and you really must rub it off very quickly after applying (in other words, don't let it haze over, or you'll be there working and sweating for a good long while!), but this is a fantastic surface. It laughs at water on the bottom of a glass put on it for a while. No ring or stain.

Last tip: When buffing the wax off, don't apply much pressure as you finish the piece off. Light and fast does it. Good technique for other things too. :B

[Peter36]

After the final coat, again I rub it back with the 0000, and then apply Gilly Stephenson's carnauba wax/polish. Hard to rub, and you really must rub it off very quickly after applying (in other words, don't let it haze over, or you'll be there working and sweating for a good long while!), but this is a fantastic surface. It laughs at water on the bottom of a glass put on it for a while. No ring or stain.

Last tip: When buffing the wax off, don't apply much pressure as you finish the piece off. Light and fast does it. Good technique for other things too. :B

:o What about Ubeaut Traditional Wax

[cellist]

:o What about Ubeaut Traditional Wax

No experience with that product, but would be interested to read from others of their's.

Mike

[RufflyRustic]

UBeaut's Traditional Wax works brilliantly over Minwax Wipe on Poly.:2tsup:

cheers
Wendy

[Chesand]

UBeaut's Traditional Wax works brilliantly over Minwax Wipe on Poly.:2tsup:

cheers
Wendy

And it is made by the sponsor of this Board

[Ben from Vic.]

I notice on the Minwax website that they have an oil based wipe on poly and a water based wipe on poly.
If I remember correctly we are talking about the oil based as we can add turps??:-

How much does the stuff cost?


Cellist, about how many coats of the DIY version gives a reasonable result?


Thanks all.

[Andrew_B]

the minwax wipe on poly cost me $29.98 at bunnings

[Mr Brush]

Still cheaper to make your own - 3 parts polyurethane of your choice (I use Estapol Satin or Gloss) to 2 parts mineral turps.

I only ever bought one can of Minwax WipeOn Poly, then, thanks to whoever posted the recipe on here, I've been making up my own ever since. :2tsup:

[Ben from Vic.]

Thanks guys.

Mr Brush (Mr Wipe On?:p) how many coats of the DIY mix do you apply?

[Chipman]

For those of you who find the wipe on poly (or sprayed or brushed) is staying tacky, it will be caused by oils in the timber.

One way to overcome this problem is to wipe the timber down with acetone before applying your finish. This gets the oils out of the surface (And your skin! so avoid contact and use gloves)

By the way, this is the recommended procedure when gluing oily timbers too (wipe down with acetone befor applying the glue) Teak and Huon pine are 2 timbers that come to mind.

Cheers,

Chipman:)

[BrettC]

So how do I go wet sanding with a danish/tung oil mix oil and then applying wipe on poly - sounds like it's advisable to wait until all oil has thoroughly dried i.e. weeks before applying Minwax?

[Mr Brush]

Ben - the home brew wipe-on poly can be treated exactly the same as the Minwax stuff. I've found you need a minimum of 3-4 coats just to get a functional finish, more than that if you want to build up a deeper lustre. I tend to use the satin finish mind you, so 3-4 coats normally does it.

That's the only downside with the wipe-on poly products; you only get a REALLY thin coat per application compared to spraying or brushing on regular Estapol.

Mind you, it does go off much faster....:2tsup:

[Ben from Vic.]

Thanks Mr Brush, three or four coats (or a few more) sounds OK as you could probably recoat this stuff in a few hours (say 3,4,5?) if the weather was right?
We get 300 days of sunshine here so recoat times will be minimal.

I don't mind putting on a few coats of fast drying finish, but I'm not keen to do the old "one coat everyday for a week, etc, etc" :oo:

Sounds like I could start with a layer of oil, then after the oil has properly gone off, go over with a few coats DIY wipe on......hmmmm......:2tsup:

[Mr Brush]

Yup - in average weather conditions, you can easily get 2 or even 3 coats of wipe-on completed in a day, so its a fairly quick finishing technique.

One of my favorite finishes is the satin wipe-on poly over danish oil. As you say, its worth waiting a while after putting the danish oil on, as it needs to be completely dry before using the wipe-on poly.

Finish with a quick wipe of Ubeaut trad wax to really bring it up. :D

[Wongdai]

Mr Brush, newby here

Does the Danish oil darken the timber up slightly?

I'm about to finish a piece I have out of Tasmanian Oak, and I find the timber looks a little light with the wipe on poly alone. I don't really want to add stain though.

[Mr Brush]

I've tried it on a small piece, but I found the danish oil only yellows the Tassie Oak slightly, it doesn't really darken it much.

I have the same problem as you - a large entertainment unit I built using a mix of Tassie Oak veneered board and solid timber. When I started out I quite liked the idea of the pinkish tones of the natural timber......but by the time I'd finished it I'd gone off that altogether :C. Now I have to make it match the tones of all the all other pieces I have built for the same room (mostly Brushbox), so I want to make the Tassie Oak a mid-tone brown before I apply the Wipe-On Poly for protection.

In his (most excellent) Polishers Handbook, our fearless leader mentions using Van Dyke Crystals to do this, but I'd have to experiment on some scrap timber before attempting the large piece. Has anyone tried the Van Dyke Cystals, and if so any guidelines would be appreciated. For example, how much of the stuff do you dissolve in what quantity of hot water?? I've mucked around with spirit stains, but find it hard to get uniform colour on such a large area.:(

[Wongdai]

Hi again,

Well, I had a bottle of very old linseed oil lying around the shed, so I took a punt and have thoroughly rubbed it into the timber. After leaving overnight, I would describe the change as going from a very light ash blond to a deep honey blonde. I am quite happy with that tone.

My next question however, (and very sorry to hijack the thread), is that, never having done any finishing before, I don't know what to do next.

Do I simply start rubbing in the MinWax Poly, or do have sand it down, or do I sand it and apply more linseed oil, or....etc.

Your help is aprpeciated

Wongdai

[rsser]

My two bob's worth: let it sit til thorougly dry, and that make take some time!

For your next coat or two mix the LO half and half with White Spirits (or Turps if you can't get it), wipe on, let sit for maybe 10 mins or less, then wipe off the excess. And repeat.

You can make your own 'Danish Oil' mix for general use using one part each of LO, poly, and White Spirits.

[Wongdai]

Thanks for that.

It felt pretty dry this morning - not oily to touch or anything.

Just so I understand, do I need to sandpaper it down between coats of the 50/50 LO mix?

Wongdai

[rsser]

Hmm, so was it plain LO or Boiled? Sounds like Boiled.

Boiled can be any kind of oil with a solvent.

I would only wet sand if you have an open-grained timber you want to fill. Otherwise, just wipe the mix off before it gets tacky.

[rsser]

Just to add: as it sounds like BLO then don't add any White Spirits.

You could experiment by adding a third of poly, try it on a piece of scrap, and see how you like it.

[Wongdai]

OK, thanks for that.

I couldn't tell you if it is boiled or plain LO, as I bought the bottle at least 30 years ago from an art supplies store, and the label has since long gone. :-

I will try adding the third of poly on a piece of scrap and see how she looks.

regards

Wongdai

[Andrew_B]

i use linseed oil on most of the things i restore... (raw &/or boiled)
i rub it in, then leave it for a bit...
then give it a nice wet coat and leave it to dry... then hand buff

[rsser]

It wouldn't be plain LO if it dried overnight Wongdai.

[Wongdai]

OK, well I went home after work and examined the timber more closely. It definitely still has an oily feel to it in places, so I will leave it another day before applying the second coat. After that two coats of poly and we will see how it looks.

Thanks all for the help.