Which oil finish for kitchen benchtops?

[Rusty]

I've done a search, but I spose I'm really looking for a specific product recommendation.

I'm doing a solid timber (messmate slab) benchtop and the client has specified a matt oil finish. I have advised them that it will offer little in the way of protection and will require maintenance, however, that's what they want.

I was thinking of using organoil interior, however the manufacturer specifically advises against it's wet-area use (and fair enough). I'd really like to use Floorseal, but it comes up a bit bright for this job, although I may just end up using it if I can't find a good alternative.

The two front runners are Organoil's outdoor furniture oil (or whatever it's called; it's what they recommend anyway) and Feast Watson China wood oil, which I gather is pretty much straight tung oil.

So anyway, I know this topic has been covered- the concensus seems to be for two-pack poly:rolleyes::D- but can anyone name a wipe-on, matt-finish oil that will offer some resistance to water? Or at least, what's the least worst thing to use? I'll need to buy it tomorrow, so this is looking like one for the night owls...

Thanks,
Rusty.

[bitingmidge]

Rusty,

I've done a few kitchen tops with Danish Oil, final coat rubbed wet with 000 steel wool.

It's more satin than flat, but maybe you could rub it out again after it had hardened.

It's easy to apply, and easy to reapply, which is just as well, because it will need it annually at best, but it's quite a durable finish.

Cheers,

P
\:D

[Rusty]

Thanks, BM; I considered Danish, but I'm a bit antsy about the poly content, and possible phone calls when someone tries to repair it. I'm leaning strongly toward FW China wood oil.

Cheers,
Rus.

[Evan Pavlidis]

Rusty,

FW China wood oil is basically a danish oil; it contains a heap of poly with some tung oil and driers; it is not straight tung oil. Pure or raw tung oil is very thick and takes 4-5 days to dry but this could be reduced by adding orange oil to it which also thins it out improving penetration into the timber.
I have used FW china wood oil and its not bad; smells shi%*ouse when dry especially in enclosed spaces eg; cabinets, drawers.
For doing a table top in a matt finish as your client suggested go for Rustins danish applying at least 4 coats allowing 24 hrs between and very lightly cutting back with the finest steel wool between coats but don't cut back the final coat. This should give you a very durable and mellow finish on messmate.
If you muck up the finish just rub in another coat until satisfied; this oil is very forgiving; I've used it on coffee tables and turnings and the finish has yet to disappoint. Feast Watson make good finishes but their "China wood oil" is not upto scratch; it's a competitive world out there and they're trying to emulate others just like everyone else.
You can pick it from the Woodsmith in Croydon.

Cheers and good luck with your venture.

[Richardwoodhead]

I recommend the Feast Watson Floorseal. Satin finish and waterproof / very durable.

Richard

[KristianH]

I recomend tung oil , it's the only thing we use in the school shop. It's naturaly matte and takes about 2-3 coats to get any kind of sheen on it. Tung oil also dries unlike linseed or danish oil. Finally it's also waterproof making it perfect for a benchtop!

[Carry Pine]

I used tung oil on a blue gum bench top and after 16 years it is only now showing slight cracking that would be remedied wth a sand and a recoat. Wonder why they wanted matt finish?

[Rusty]

Thanks for all the replies; unfortunately, due to time constraints, I've gone with the FW China wood oil. It'll go on tomorrow, so fingers crossed. As long as it does the job. Didn't know it was full of poly, though, might as well have gone with Floorseal...maybe I will (got half a tin) and get a refund on the CWO. Too late at night for thinkin'.

Thanks again,
Rusty.

[annie wilson]

A kitchen benchtop has a dramatic and significant impact on the overall look and ambience of your kitchen.