stain and danish oil

[reo]

G'day all, I'm having problems with Danish oil "leaching" (F&W prooftint) black stain out of a stereo rack I'm finishing. It's made out of silky oak, both solid wood and 12mm double faced ply. This annoys the hell out of me as I want to get it as black as possible with the grain still showing through. Even gently buffing it in with a pad lightens it considerbly. Don't even think about steel wool or extra fine wet and dry, they'll almost take it back to bare wood. I also tried sealing the stain with shellac but it ended up fairly gluggy. Spent time this arvo sanding it right back and restaining it. Can stain be added to Danish oil? How am I going to get (and keep) this thing black? I'm also running out of testing spots! :o

[Cliff Rogers]

The reasons why it happens are in here....

http://www.ubeaut.com.au/book.html

I don't have my copy beside me so I can't quote it but as far as I remember it, the solvent in the finish is disolving some of the stain.

You need to use a stain that won't be disolved by the finish.

IE, if the stain is solvent based, use a water based finish or, it the stain is water based, use a solvent based finish.

I think I have that right but somebody will step on me if I'm wrong.;)

[martrix]

Go down to your local Spotlight and grab a couple of black "Dylon" powdered fabric dye tins.

Add water, and your away.......................

[ubeaut]

You need a stain or dye that is incompatible with the oil otherwise it will be pulled off the timber by the finish. i.e. a water dye.

You really need to be using a different finish to danish oil for what you want. However you have put the oil and it seems other stuff on already and even though you have sanded back to bare wood you may have a problem getting a water dye to take.

Paint it black and be done with it. Put this one down to experience and try again next time after you have practised on something else till you get it right.

Easiest way to get a black and still have the grain showing is to use liquid nightmare and black water dye. See the book.

Best thing to do for the stereo rack would have been to buy black woodgain melamine then this problem wouldn't arise. You will most likely have a problem making the ply the same as the solid even if you do use nightmare or dye.

For now your best way out of this one will probably be to get some turpentine based wiping stain (lamp black) if possible then add a little lamp black universal tint (just to be sure) leave it dry for 24 hours and give it a couple of coats of white shellac.

Cheers - Neil
.

[reo]

Thanks for the detailed replies guys. I guess I'll be spending a bit more time sanding it back before I start re-blackening it. I ordered the "Polishers Handbook" over the net, so at least I won't be making the same mistake twice........ I hope

[Harry72]

You could spray finish it... wont rub out if you dont touch it, but poly or lacquer is about all you'll coat it in.