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barrysumpter
19th January 2006, 09:28 AM
Hi all,

Anyone have a hyperlink or magazine article
for instruction on how to
prepare, mix paint, adjust spraygun (air), actually spray paint, and clean up
for spray painting a Picket Fence?

MurrayD99
19th January 2006, 09:41 AM
What sort of paint have you got in mind Barry? Water-based paint can be pretty yucky to spray - needs more thinning and more pressure but job ends up OK.

Ashore
19th January 2006, 11:11 AM
1, Don't do it on a windy Day

2, Don't do it in the rain

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

barrysumpter
19th January 2006, 11:18 AM
Water based - right
Not on a windy or rainy day - got it

From a paint retailer:
"The best way to spray paint a picket fence is to use a paint brush."


The original idea was to use the job of painting the picket fence as a reason to learn how to use a spraygun.

It's looking at though I could paint the fence by hand faster than I can find instructions of how to use a spraygun.

Can't seem to find a tafe course for using a spraygun either.

MurrayD99
19th January 2006, 12:01 PM
Water based - right

It's looking at though I could paint the fence by hand faster than I can find instructions of how to use a spraygun.....

Nah.... This is easy and sooooo fast. I do Adirondack chairs - basically the same as palings, with acrylic. Stir the paint well. Fill the cup on the gun 2/3 full. Dilute it till it is not at all sludgy/thick/yucky - but not so much that it is like water. Say, like it is the consistency of SAE30 oil. Max dilution should be about 15% - 20%. Test.. does it pour nice. If it does, set the regulator for 60psi. Open the fan up a couple of turns (start it a bit wide). Open the feed up "till the first thread appears". Do a test spray onto a bit of cardboard or something, if it coming out pretty good, not too thin, not spluttering too much, probably reduce the size of the fan so it suits the flat side of the palings. If you are getting to much paint at a time, reduce the feed. Too thin, open it up. This'all depends on the gun, so I can't be too specific. Twist the nozzle so you have a vertical fan. Rip into it. Overlap the coverage a bit on the flat sides. Move fairly fast so as not to saturate the surface and get runs. If you have to give it two or three coats you'll still be way ahead of using a brush. Tip: There is an acrylic paint additive called Flotrol. It isn't essential, but it can help... Good luck. PM me if you want. Regards

Sprog
19th January 2006, 05:18 PM
Hi all,

Anyone have a hyperlink or magazine article
for instruction on how to
prepare, mix paint, adjust spraygun (air), actually spray paint, and clean up
for spray painting a Picket Fence?

Some info here

http://www.autobodypro.com/tektips/articles/spray_guns.htm

barrysumpter
20th January 2006, 06:25 AM
Just me using all the wrong key words

from another post in this exact area. ;)

http://www.bunnings.com.au/site/files/5709/How%20to%20spray%20paint(1).pdf

Bunnings - who would have guessed? ;)

barrysumpter
20th January 2006, 06:47 AM
Finally chased down the specs on the internet

Heavy Duty Air Paint Spray Gun - 12071

Cup Volume: 1000cc
Nozzle size: 2.10mm
Air Inlet: 1/4 NPS
Compressor required 2-3 HP
Operating pressue: 50-90 PSI
Hose size 3/8 IN.ID.Hose

barrysumpter
20th January 2006, 10:55 AM
And asked um to scan n mail the instructions...

Each is almost 1 meg and you may have to right-click save file as:

http://www.barrysumpter.com/_private/SprayGun/AirPaintSprayGunp1.gif
http://www.barrysumpter.com/_private/SprayGun/AirPaintSprayGunp2.gif

barrysumpter
20th January 2006, 10:57 AM
Jack Pot! With videos...

http://www.abac.co.uk/Spraying/index.htm

barrysumpter
20th January 2006, 06:24 PM
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=9928

barrysumpter
21st January 2006, 02:49 PM
Hay, MurrayD99!

I Just had a flash.

What if I just filled the spray gun with tap water and had a play to see how the adjustments work?

Anything I need to worry about with just plain tap water?

barrysumpter
1st February 2006, 08:59 AM
http://www.paintcenter.org/pexpertqa1.cfm

http://www.itwfinishing.com.au/docs/document_42186d4357ded.pdf

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showpost.php?p=41083&postcount=12

mudgutts
2nd February 2006, 06:58 PM
Plain tap water is fine Barry, Thats how i learnt to use a spraygun on a car now i spray everything whats a paint brush ?

MurrayD99
3rd February 2006, 07:42 AM
Hay, MurrayD99!

I Just had a flash.

What if I just filled the spray gun with tap water and had a play to see how the adjustments work?

Anything I need to worry about with just plain tap water?

Sorry.... been away.... tap water is good to get a handle on the gun - delivery and fan etc... but what you'll actually be spraying is a lot thicker than water. I sprayed some chairs (just like your pickets) with Wattyl deck & furniture oil. Made the Hell of a mess first-off - because I didn't cut the pressure back at the regulator from the normal 60psi I use for paint. So, use water for a test, no problem.... but adjust a few things when you put the proper product in it. Let me know how you go... PM me if you like. BTW, you'll be cleaning the gun with tap water if you have painted acrylic. It won't do any harm at all.... Best regards

looney
22nd February 2006, 05:19 PM
my two bobs is use a mini roller, it's really good if you can get it down between pickets, roll front and back of about 4 at a time, roll in between and side of shaped tops, then quick once over front and back with no paint on roller to get blobs off, have brush sitting there for those hard to get at spots

before painting - if old paint coming off use pressure hose to clean and get most loose stuff off, be careful not to break down surface of wood with pressure, let it dry, scrape off what's left, buy small triangular scraper for in between pickets

sand it

oil based primer on holes and cracks you wanna get rid of (if radical change in colour, get the paint shop to tint primer), let dry, fill, use bog as cheap as others but hangs on better (don't like direct sun, goes off real quick, which i don't mind, just mix up small quantities), sand filler, prime filled areas well as all bare parts

i then give a quick light hand once over sand, gap where water may get in and then two coats of good acrylic paint

i do this all the time

knew some bloke who did it by spaying, took him as long, loads of spots missed which he had then to do by hand, cost him buckets of cash which would of paid me to do it

hey - but what would i know

barrysumpter
22nd February 2006, 07:01 PM
http://www.barrysumpter.com/Personal/PicketFence/pics.htm

MrFixIt
6th March 2006, 09:04 PM
Hi
Hi all,
Anyone have a hyperlink or magazine article
for instruction on how to prepare, mix paint, adjust spraygun (air), actually spray paint, and clean up for spray painting a Picket Fence?

Realistically you can't get a good "thick" coat of paint on a picket fence using a spray gun. You can't even get a really good cover with an airless spray gun.

The best way REALLY IS to use a brush :D I did such a fence with an airless spray gun, sure it did look nice but the finish did "weather" fairly quickly and left the open grain of the "old" timber pickets exposed.

This was on a previously unpainted fence so that did not help. If your fence is already painted and you want to paint over the current colour then you can achieve a better result.

An airless spraygun is the best, not one of those "piddly" bzzzzzt, phut, pop, LEAK, electrical airless sprayguns, one of the proper 3000psi airless guns. The one I used was a Titan brand (Titan 4000. I think?).

These devices basically just spray PAINT. There is NO air involved, so there is much less overspray.

Using an ordinary spray gun creates too fine a mist for use outdoors. The outdoor result generally creates too much paint "dust" the particles that dry too fast and do not form part of the proper coverage but leave a "dust" like feel to the surface.

Using water ti experiment with the gun can only ever be a VERY subjective guide. Sure you CAN fiddle with the adjustments and "see" the results. However these results are not truly accurate because you cannot really see the effects of overspray (as the water is transparent) and you do not have the "feel" of the mix to compare with the resulting spray pattern and how moist/dry it is.

You will need to experiment with each type of paint you use, probably each time you change paint etc. The humidity, type of paint, the consistency of the paint, the pressure, amount of air flow ALL conspire to provide the end result - which is sometimes good :D :D

Sure spraying paint is a great way to paint things, I do it all the time now. However is is not automatically a good result, it does take a little practice, trial and error etc.

I guess a picket fence is as good as any item with which to start, just don't expect as good a result as you would get with the brush.

BTW you WILL lose some paint to the atmosphere.

Good luck....

durwood
6th March 2006, 10:57 PM
Wood is best painted by brush or roller,

You will loose half your paint in overspray and will get paint on the plants, ground and anything else within a few feet of your spraying.
If there is a wind blowing yoiu will have overspray over next doors house washing on the line and the family caras well as the dog.

As Mrfixit said the penetrating into the wood will be poor as the air bounces back out of the wood grain stopping the paint getting in. Thats why you always brush the first coat even if you intend finishing with spray.

Airless with a proper unit does work its like spraying with a garden hose the paint hits the surface and is forces into the grain. But you will still use heaps of paint as you miss between the pickets when spraying and you will still paint everything close.