View Full Version : Replacing large sliding windows
Howmanyru
12th November 2023, 09:36 PM
Hi all,
Previous renovate forum member here, currently in the process of removing a very old and bowed sliding aluminium window (2.8m x 1.6m)
I have measured up and ready to order a new double glazed timber single pane window to replace the old unit.
Have a few questions though:-
1. It's going into a brick veneer house, how would I flash the window?
Are you supposed to flash around the framing, or just attach plastic flashing to underside of timber window.
If attached under window, how does it drain away if the brickwork is already there?
My understanding is flashing needs to be embedded in the brickwork with drain holes, but I don't want to remove then relay a few rows of bricks.
2. How wide does the new window need to be, how far does it extend passed the brickwork and brick sill?
3. Do you only secure the window to framing on the sides?
4. Could the window sit flush on the bottom framing if it's level, or should it be packed?
5. Is around 5mm gap all around good enough when measuring up?
6. Do you fill gaps with slow expanding foam?
Sorry lots of questions as I have never replaced a large window.
Cheers.
verawood
14th November 2023, 09:08 AM
I wont offer answers to all your questions, but one I will offer personal experience on is;
On 2 occasions, 1 me, 1 a friend, ordered al windows.
Both didn't fit; the 1st thing the suppliers said was "We supplied what you ordered".
They couldn't believe that that's why we got them to measure.
We anticipated there attitude.
Worth thinking about, because even if they get it wrong they may not correct it free.
Howmanyru
14th November 2023, 12:22 PM
I think at this stage I just need to understand how to measure up for a new window.
I have realized the brickwork will come past the framing studs because of the timber reveal.
Originally I was going to measure slightly less than stud to stud, but the window would not have cleared the brick veneer.
So now I am realising I need to measure from brick to brick, and probably pack out the studs a bit, so they are in line with the brickwork.
Does this seem like a reasonable assessment ?
Cheers
ErrolFlynn
14th November 2023, 12:23 PM
we got them to measure.
At the risk of sending this thread sideways...
I measured the window to get a quote. I gave them the go-ahead, and the company sent someone out to measure exactly. That's a very sensible idea. However, the window was made sideways; it would have fitted if it had been rotated 90 deg. They took it away and made another one. You can't be too careful. Even if you know what you're doing.
ForeverYoung
14th November 2023, 04:40 PM
from what I recall when building brick veneer the timber frame is done first, then the window installed with its flashing, then the brick veneer is done.
is the aluminium window you are replacing the original window?
how is the current brick sill done? Since this would have been installed after the original window was installed.
I am thinking you are going to have to install the new window from inside the house so the overlapping brick veneer covers it.
And it is hard to see how you won't have to redo the brick sill.
https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/image/serverpage/image-id/4403i65865B2C37478D76/image-size/large?v=v2&px=999
droog
14th November 2023, 07:03 PM
Agree to have the manufacturer measure, any mistake is then on them to rectify.
Generic installation diagrams can be found here
Attention Required! | Cloudflare (https://www.ezwindows.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/EZ-Windows-Window-Installation.pdf)
rwbuild
14th November 2023, 07:38 PM
Have the manufacturer measure and make.
What material is the current built in flashing, lead, alcor or plastic, if you leave it there your new flashing simply goes OVER the existing between the brick and the existing flashing, no need to remove brickwork
Compleat Repeat
16th November 2023, 01:57 PM
Agree with everything above, all valid. Remember the storm moulds cover the brick/window join on the outside, and the practice is to fix to the frame (nails and packers, whatever) and fill the frame-window gap from the inside with foam. It'll never move.
Having done two of these recently, if I understand your window correctly (double glazed timber framed), it will be bloody heavy, around 100 kg assembled. I got mine delivered flat pack and assembled in it in situ. That way the biggest part was the double glazed slider, about 30 kg.
Pay lots of attention to packing the sill level and flat, packers every 300mm is where I finished. The opening was not level, not square, not nuffink like that!