Front entrance - door, and frame - around 42 years old - how to clean

[Sammyfromau]

:D Hello



I am totally new to wood work, though some years ago I glued some pine from bunnings and made a small set of shelves.

This thread brings me to the front entrance door. I did last year, glue the door where it had started peal. I am yet to see how to remove the door hardware, which is a Dexter brand, and quite ornate in design. That would be more metal forum project.

I hope to keep the stain colour, as it matches the inside kitchen window frame, sadly the rest of the door and window frames have been painted. I believe the timber is meranti, which was common in the 80s. The colour of the stain also matches the vaulted timber ceilings.

I have tried warm soapy water it took some dirt off but, once dry it had that same appearance? maybe the timber stain has gone or patchy or mixed with dirt>

I hope the photos will provide an idea on what to do.

Thank you
Sam
entrance - indented in, so little light, so somewhat protected
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markings i could not remove
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can see its nice colour the stain, hope to retain it

Window in the kitchen, only one not painted. i just love the colour of the stain or maybe its the natural timber with poly no idea
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Kind of matches the beams and pine wall
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[419]

This thread brings me to the front entrance door. I did last year, glue the door where it had started peal.

Solid timber doesn't peel. Coatings and veneeers do.

If it was a very thin veneer lifting from the base, it's probably going to continue because the colour gradation from top with probably close to original finish to progressive deterioration to the bottom indicates sun and / or rain exposure which increases from about half height down to the bottom. This is also consistent with different intensities of sun exposure as the sun angle hitting the door changes with the seasons.

It may be beyond reasonable time and effort to restore it to the original finish. Even if you do, the same problem will occur again unless you can protect it from direct sun and rain, such as by a covered porch that stops the sun hitting the door.


I am yet to see how to remove the door hardware, which is a Dexter brand, and quite ornate in design. That would be more metal forum project.

It's not metal work or woodwork, just standard carpentry to remove and refit the handle. The era of that door suggests that you might have one of those mongrel pressed metal internal handles that have to be prised off the door while depressing a catch on the spindle with a pointed tool or small flat blade screwdriver.

An exterior entry door handle (as distinct from some screen and supposed security doors right up to now) for that period usually has no fasteners accessible from the exterior, for security, and will have fasteners screwed tight from the interior. These may be concealed under an escutcheon plate similar to the outline of the exterior escutcheon plate or under an interior handle or lock. Once you've removed the interior handle and or lock the fasteners for the exterior handle should be clear.

If you're determined to try to restore it to original finish, run a sharp razor knife around the exterior escutcheon plate several times to break the seal with the finish, otherwise you risk pulling it up as the handle is removed. Same applies to the interior handle and or lock.

[Sammyfromau]

Thank you for the reply and help 419:)

The door is timber veneer, and its quite thick around 6mm. I noticed that also, the stain is less at the bottom of the door. Its rather protective in the site so sun isnt the issue, though being south facing, i would expect more moisture and ware. My area gets heavy dews, and i you can feel the screens on the double sliding doors also facing south, getting damp.

If were to protect the door, maybe a different type of stain, who knows maybe the original owners used one that wasnt specific for outdoors. Is there such a thing as a clear seal?

As for the door handle, yes it appears to be glued and on the inside is normal door handle and down from it is a screw to remove the handle. It also has weathered and would be worth restoring considering the price of getting something similar (American made not Chinese)

As, the timber frame? second photo, i tried to remove the stain or dirt, with soapy water, the rag had to be washed due to the dirt, but the marks are still there? maybe sanding? how to retain the original stain if possible

[droog]

The 6mm thick veneer is most likely 6mm plywood, the top level veneer is probably 1mm or less.
Exterior you do not use clear due to the UV, a tint is added for protection.
The coating has lifted or worn through in locations, the ONLY way to get a fresh even coat is remove the existing coating back to bare timber and start again.

Water will not remove the coating, either a chemical stripper or mechanical means (sanding) will be required.

[Sammyfromau]

Thank you Droog for the advice and help

For the door, the sander would be too extreme or burn the veneer? what grit sandpaper would be used on it. I would have to remove the door to make sure i get the sides protected, which maybe the previous owners didnt do.

As for the frame, maybe the sander or sandpaper - different grades grit (by hand) to remove the marks and patches , dust off then stain (hopefully the same colour - maybe i could bring part of the window frame to get a match)

[droog]

Thank you Droog for the advice and help

For the door, the sander would be too extreme or burn the veneer? what grit sandpaper would be used on it. I would have to remove the door to make sure i get the sides protected, which maybe the previous owners didnt do.

As for the frame, maybe the sander or sandpaper - different grades grit (by hand) to remove the marks and patches , dust off then stain (hopefully the same colour - maybe i could bring part of the window frame to get a match)

Sandpaper should cut freely, it will only burn if it is clogged. I would start at 180 maybe 120 but the coating will tell you what it needs. Have to be careful as it is a veneer finish.
The current coating is a stain tint in the clear coat, most clear's will not last outside due to the UV. I suggest an exterior coating with the tint the color of your preference, you should be able to find samples at any good hardware store.

[tonzeyd]

i'd give everything a good scrub with steel brush to remove any loose bits, then proceed to sand, start with 120 grit then go to 180. Wipe everything down with tack cloth and proceed with oil finish. It'll smell for a week or so, so be prepared to sleep in back rooms during this time.

You don't even need to use an orbital sander, you're essentially trying to scuff the surface and remove any flakey bits and to prepare the surface for new finish.

[Pete57]

Would be worth taking the door off & recoating the bottom edge. That assumes it was coated in the first place. None of the doors at my place were painter or coated underneath so front door, back door & bathroom doors all started to go along to bottom edge due to moisture. Just poor workmanship.

[Sammyfromau]

Sandpaper should cut freely, it will only burn if it is clogged. I would start at 180 maybe 120 but the coating will tell you what it needs. Have to be careful as it is a veneer finish.
The current coating is a stain tint in the clear coat, most clear's will not last outside due to the UV. I suggest an exterior coating with the tint the color of your preference, you should be able to find samples at any good hardware store.

Thank you Droog. Yes i notice the bunnings one says minimal clogging. Yes, i think it needs the 120, will see how it goes, The veneer does seem thinner in areas ( sounds hollow around the glass). Maybe it is a clear, hence the natural timber look. That also would not have lasted 40 years as you said.


i'd give everything a good scrub with steel brush to remove any loose bits, then proceed to sand, start with 120 grit then go to 180. Wipe everything down with tack cloth and proceed with oil finish. It'll smell for a week or so, so be prepared to sleep in back rooms during this time.

You don't even need to use an orbital sander, you're essentially trying to scuff the surface and remove any flakey bits and to prepare the surface for new finish.

Thanks Tonzevyd, I have a steel brush, i can start with. I can see i get tack cloths on ebay cheaper than bunnings a whole set. May have to wait till spring when it warmer maybe, to leave the house open, though today is very toasty here 27c. Being south facing its a nice cool spot to work in. By hand is a more gentle approach than the sander especially the veneer door, the timber frame is more durable, but same procedure for it.


Would be worth taking the door off & recoating the bottom edge. That assumes it was coated in the first place. None of the doors at my place were painter or coated underneath so front door, back door & bathroom doors all started to go along to bottom edge due to moisture. Just poor workmanship.
Thanks Pete, yes i plan to take it off, not only that, looking at it, i noticed its very slightly out, That is what killed the laundry door, moisture got it from the bottom. I doubt the previous owners took the entrance door off, the base is all dark, where the door veneer had to be repaired.

If Spring is to be dry, almost there now, might be a good time to start, use this thread to show the progress