Small Redgum table tops going outdoors

[dingolingo]

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I’m restoring a couple of Cafe tables for use on a balcony. (Redgum? about 500x500.) Unfortunately, I don’t know about timber finishes, so I need help.
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Is a paint-stripper and a wire brush the best way to clean the natural edge?
I’ve decided on an oil finish over a polyurethane. Is Danish oil best for this?
I've already sanded the top to 120 grit with the belt sander. Is it worth going beyond 120 grit with an orbital sander?
If so, should I use a sanding sealer?
I’ve seen car bog and black oxid as a fill solution. Is this the most straightforward?

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Many thanks in antisipation

Peter

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

G'day. Any answers to most of your questions are really a matter of personal taste, but as it takes experience to know 'if you do this you get that' I'll offer some general answers.


Is a paint-stripper and a wire brush the best way to clean the natural edge?

I'd be inclined to just wire brush it first. Depending on how 'scaly' the existing finish is, you may only have a few stubborn areas that need extra work and if there's only a few it should be possible to simply use a scraper for them.

I prefer to keep strippers as a last resort for a variety of reasons.


I’ve decided on an oil finish over a polyurethane. Is Danish oil best for this?

Really, it should be either/or. They're not really compatible with each other. For outdoor use a PolyU with UV resistance makes for minimal maintenance, while an oiled finish typically needs at least one recoat per year.

On t'other hand, PolyU can be a PITA to repair if damaged, while Oil is usually just 'wipe on another coat.'


I've already sanded the top to 120 grit with the belt sander. Is it worth going beyond 120 grit with an orbital sander?

The higher the grit you go, in general the glossier or more mirror-like the result. I'd suggest 180 & 240 grits to enhance the grain, but IMO any higher than that is pointless as weathering will dull the finish over time anyway. Perhaps if the balcony was sheltered I'd go higher.


If so, should I use a sanding sealer?

If it is Redgum, it won't really have open pores that need it although it would help to fill the minor cracks. As with the previous question, if you want a mirror finish then sure, go ahead. But I believe that with weathering, well... it'd be a waste of effort. Mind you, it'd look good for a few weeks or months but in the long term?


I’ve seen car bog and black oxid as a fill solution. Is this the most straightforward?

That can work and I have done it myself at need, although I think that most members here would consider it a hack solution.

Personally I prefer to use 2-part epoxy and coffee-grinds for Redgum. When done well, it looks quite natural. If you don't mind imperfections (ie. small bubbles) then plain old 24hr Araldite is a good, relatively cheap option to the more expensive 2-packs.

I prefer epoxy as it is a glue, with all that implies about adhesion. Auto bog... well it is literally just an inflexible filler. Even a paste made up of sawdust and PVA is a more durable filler when it comes to timber.

[GM2]

Agree with above - I would use epoxy - use it before sanding any finer.
My preference is for an oil finish Both Osmo, Livos and Organoil have oils suitable - but have pigments included to give the UV protection. They look good...

[dingolingo]

Many, many thanks, just what I needed, answers that help me evaluate and decide.

[Bob38S]

Definitely go with the epoxy rather than any type of car filler or Plastibond, as the timber “moves” these fillers will break away from the edges and will allow the weather to do its thing.

As to the finish, consider Penetrol Marine, available from any chandlery, made for yacht timbers out in the weather, tough and flexible enough to resist weathering.

Many don’t do it, but, to save you some weathering grief, ensure that you put at least 1 coat (of your desired finish) underneath. This will ensure you keep out most of the weather influences as the weather is all around the item not just the top or edges.