Hard Wax Oils

[Sunburypaul]

Hi, I`ve been using Osmo hard wax oil for a few years now and I love the product, it`s easy to use, gives a great finish and wears well but wondered if anyone had any thoughts/comments on a similar but slightly cheaper alternative, Fiddes Hard Wax Oil? Wondering how it compares to Osmo?
Regards,
Paul.

[shanesmith80]

Don't know about Fiddes, but I use Whittle waxes Evolution oil and love it. Like you said, easy to go on , gives good finish. I also haven't used Osmo either, mainly because Whittle waxes is easy for me to get.

[Sunburypaul]

Thanks for the reply.

[FenceFurniture]

Don't know about Fiddes, but I use Whittle waxes Evolution oil and love it.Same here, but I have been trying to get some Fiddes to try.... 'cept the Sydney wood show keeps getting postponed, and that will be the easiest way to get hold of it. I have tried Osmo, (the white one) but I didn't like it. It just looked like someone had rubbed flour into the surface, and then oiled it.

Fiddes is only 12 hours between coats apparently, and a mere snip at $99 a litre.

[Mr Brush]

I'm almost out of Osmo, and it does mean a trip to Sydney to get more. I've been meaning to try the Whittle Evolution stuff, so might give that a go next.

Might try a small can of their grey stain too - apparently you just apply 2 coats of the normal hardwax oil over the top of an initial stain coat.

[FenceFurniture]

Mr B, Moss Vale Paintwurx carries Fiddes, according to Fiddes (https://www.fiddesaustralia.com/where-to-buy/).

[Mr Brush]

Thanks, yeah, I saw that on the Fiddes webpage too, but it says *restricted range. Not sure what they'll keep in stock, as it's quite a small shop, but will take a look next time I'm going into town.:2tsup:

I'm not sure how many places keep Osmo, but I had to get my last lot from a timber flooring place in Sydney that kept the whole range. Limited outlets seems to be a problem for a few people on here with Osmo.

[delbs]

Mr B, Moss Vale Paintwurx carries Fiddes, according to Fiddes (https://www.fiddesaustralia.com/where-to-buy/).

That Fiddes trade sample kit looks useful


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sunburypaul]

I think the white Osmo is meant to be used on lighter timber and is supposed not to darken it too much. I did try it a while ago but also didn`t like the finish. I`ve been using Osmo Polyx 3032 satin finish which gives a low sheen finish

[qwertyu]

I have used Osmo, fiddes and whittle waxes. Many L of osmo, about 5L of fiddes and about 2-3L of whittle waxes. The fiddes is better IMO - its more durable. You can lay the first layer on pretty thick too for durability which you cant for osmo.

[FenceFurniture]

You can lay the first layer on pretty thick too for durability which you cant for osmo.That's very useful to know. I imagine that it would also produce a smoother "settled" layer because it will take a little longer to settle and have more substance (even though Fiddes can be recoated in 12 hours, rather than 24 for the others)

[Mr Brush]

That sounds good......because I dropped into Moss Vale Paintwurx today and picked up a small can of the Fiddes clear hardwax in satin finish to try. For anyone else in this area they do keep a reasonable range of sizes in the Silk, Satin, and Gloss finishes at Moss Vale.

I normally apply the Osmo with a microfibre roller, so might try the same with the Fiddes to start with.

[yvan]

Mr Bush
What are the advantages of using a microfibre roller to apply hard wax oil?
I imagine that it would be faster than a brush on a larger surface but does it apply the oil more evenly?

Cheers,
Yvan

[Mr Brush]

Prior to just buying some Fiddes to try, I'd always used Osmo satin. I think someone on here recommended the microfibre roller to put it on, but I've since see a YouTube video where some guy in the UK evaluated various methods and came to the same conclusion.

Osmo do recommend roller rather than brush to apply multiple very thin coats, and this method has worked well for me. These hardwax products aren't cheap, but if you apply them with a roller a little really does go a long way.

The Fiddes may be different, so I'll experiment to see what works best. If all else fails, I may even look up their recommended application method on their webpage ! :D

[Sunburypaul]

Thanks guys that`s interesting to hear, appreciate the feedback. I tried a sample tin of the Fiddes and applied it the same as I do with Osmo ie a 4mm knap microfibre roller. Two coats, first a bit heavier the second a bit lighter both coats across and with the grain but finishing with the grain. Osmo say no need to sand between coats but a light sand seems to give a better result. I`m making a walnut entertainment unit and found the Osmo satin gave a darker finish than the Fiddes which for this project is what I wanted. It comes in Matt, Silk and Satin, I used the Silk which is supposed to be similar in sheen level to Osmo Satin. In a Melbourne winter Osmo takes a long time to dry so been using the Osmo "Rapide" which costs more and is supposed to enable two coats in a day; maybe it would in summer but still needed 24 hours in a Melbourne August. The Fiddes however was ready for a second coat the same day. Both Fiddes and Osmo are easy to apply and give a lovely finish but the Fiddes is a bit cheaper and dries a lot quicker.

[qwertyu]

From my experience all the HWO benefited from sanding/denibbing after both coats. The osmo is softer so you can denib very easily with a fairly high grit. Osmo and whittle waxes I found it easier to use a lower grit and really need to get powdery/silky smooth which is a little more work. I dont remove the powder before applying the second coat, it seems to dissolve into the second coat and you dont really notice it

[Sunburypaul]

After the second coat once its good and dry you can get a really nice smooth finish by lightly sanding with 1500 or 2000 grit

[delbs]

Is either the Osmo or Fiddles hard wax oils overkill for a workbench finish? I’m considering it but for 2.5l it’s $230 where I have plenty of Tung and danish oil at the moment and some beeswax I’m considering mixing up to use on the bench.

[FenceFurniture]

Is either the Osmo or Fiddles hard wax oils overkill for a workbench finish?Yep.

It'll look wonderful for....phwooaa....a week...two? After that it'll start looking like a beat up work bench (or at least it should), and you'll soon tire of pouring on expensive finish to bugger it up and do it again.

[Swifty]

Is either the Osmo or Fiddles hard wax oils overkill for a workbench finish?

I used a 50:50 mixture of BLO:Turps for my workbench, it doesn't need more. I rub some more in after it gets beaten up - which is often! No need to make it pretty.

[Mr Brush]

I'm using hardwax oil for the base/frame, as once protected with a couple of coats this won't ever need recoating. Undecided what to use for the top, but I'm still doing the insets for surface mount end vise and I have the dog holes yet to do as well. Top will probably end up with whatever oil/mixture I have sitting in my cupboard.

Now that I've switched to hardwax for general finishing, I think I have a leftover can of danish oil that will never get used for anything else.....

[lovetoride]

Is either the Osmo or Fiddles hard wax oils overkill for a workbench finish? I’m considering it but for 2.5l it’s $230 where I have plenty of Tung and danish oil at the moment and some beeswax I’m considering mixing up to use on the bench.

I used the OSMO Clear Extra Thin on my workbench (not your old one Delbo!) and it still looks great after a couple of years. I also use OSMO 3032 on my boxes - simply wipe on with a soft cloth.

OSMO is designed for timber floors and is what Thor's Hammer uses on their timber floors so if it works on floors should be fine on workbench.

A little bit goes a very long way. My only issue has been that the lids of the tins are very thin and the edges curl up when opening. I did have to throw half a tin of the Thin out as air got in and because of the massive skin on top I reckoned the composition had changed too much and it was too risky to use. A bit sad.

Jane

[FenceFurniture]

My only issue has been that the lids of the tins are very thin and the edges curl up when opening. I did have to throw half a tin of the Thin out as air got in and because of the massive skin on top I reckoned the composition had changed too much and it was too risky to use. A bit sad.Stoploss bags will allow you to get perhaps 2 years out of a can. I recently pushed it 3 years but there seems to be an issue with the Whittle HWO drying – it did eventually but took a couple of weeks. :shrug:

[homey]

I keep my Osmo tins in sealable sandwich bags or put a disposable rubber glove over the top to keep air out. Works a treat.

Regards,

Brian

[Mr Brush]

Stoploss bags will allow you to get perhaps 2 years out of a can. I recently pushed it 3 years but there seems to be an issue with the Whittle HWO drying – it did eventually but took a couple of weeks. :shrug:

I had the same issue with the tops of Osmo cans - lucky I've used the last of it up, as I just about destroyed the lid getting it off the last time. I'll have to see how the Fiddes cans behave.

Stoploss bags are a good idea for this type of finish, I'll have to invest in a few. Easiest/best place to get them?

Cheers

[FenceFurniture]

Stoploss bags are a good idea for this type of finish, I'll have to invest in a few. Easiest/best place to get them?Used to be Timberbits, but they don't carry them now.
StopLoss Bags – 4 Pack | Fiddes Australia (https://www.fiddesaustralia.com/product/stoploss-bags-4-pack/)

I'm currently researching what AliExpress have (given that Stoploss are made in China). They have heaps of things that are close, but nothing so far that is "three-ply, to prevent you buying cheaper, more fairly priced substitutes".

[Mr Brush]

Cheers - I'll order some direct from Fiddes. Our local Fiddes outlet (not surprisingly) doesn't keep these.

With the price of finishes these days, you only have to waste one can through going off to cover the cost of 4 Stoploss bags !

[lovetoride]

I keep my Osmo tins in sealable sandwich bags or put a disposable rubber glove over the top to keep air out. Works a treat.

Regards,

Brian

I do have it in a sealed bag now. Originally from carrying it in the car then thought I would just leave like that.

[homey]

I've been keeping Osmo and other finishes in their cans slipped into resealable sandwich bags or freezer bags for years. Never had a problem with skinning over or going off. For stuff I used most regularly the disposable rubber glove over the top of the time is also a winner. Low cost, no need to take the product out of the can, cans still stack OK and you still have all the information on the label available.

Regards,

Brian

[delbs]

Yep.

It'll look wonderful for....phwooaa....a week...two? After that it'll start looking like a beat up work bench (or at least it should), and you'll soon tire of pouring on expensive finish to bugger it up and do it again.

My thoughts exactly, I’ll save the Nicer more expensive finishes for other projects. I’ll use what I have on the bench it should be fine for at least a few months

[Petevegas]

First time poster , thought id let forum know , if you looking for some reasonable priced Osmo Polyx Amazon AU got some good deals atm , i ordered 2x 2.5ltr can 3032 satin clear for $181 a can delivered with prime membership . There are quite a few varieties available and the prices are good . My order is coming from UK so wont be real quick but i have ordered things from UK and its taken 2 weeks tops so not too bad

Amazon.com.au : osmo polyx oil (https://www.amazon.com.au/s?k=osmo+polyx+oil&i=home-improvement&crid=3UNE0QMAPJDJZ&sprefix=%2Chome-improvement%2C235&ref=nb_sb_ss_recent_1_0_recent)

[hurcorh]

After the second coat once its good and dry you can get a really nice smooth finish by lightly sanding with 1500 or 2000 grit

If your second coat is smooth enough, you can just use a brown paper bag to burnish the surface and take off those very fine nibs, buff with the grain, the brown paper bag will go a little shiny as it warms and burnishes the surface, it works great and no need to use expensive high grit sandpapers either.

[hurcorh]

Used to be Timberbits, but they don't carry them now.
StopLoss Bags – 4 Pack | Fiddes Australia (https://www.fiddesaustralia.com/product/stoploss-bags-4-pack/)

I'm currently researching what AliExpress have (given that Stoploss are made in China). They have heaps of things that are close, but nothing so far that is "three-ply, to prevent you buying cheaper, more fairly priced substitutes".


Yep the off the shelf stop loss bags are ridiculously priced from places like Fiddes and livos for what they are.

Been using these bags (attached) for years no issues just off ebay or aliexpress etc.
By Size Search Food Grade Spout Pouches | Wholesale Stand Up Doy Pouch with Spout | Vivo Packaging | Liquid Packaging Supplies Melbourne (https://www.vivopak.com.au/spout-pouches/by-size/) 500ml 60c each.

[g.odgers]

Interesting to read all the comments re different wax oils etc. my question is does anyone buff the finish with any sort of polish??

[qwertyu]

Yep the off the shelf stop loss bags are ridiculously priced from places like Fiddes and livos for what they are.

Been using these bags (attached) for years no issues just off ebay or aliexpress etc.
By Size Search Food Grade Spout Pouches | Wholesale Stand Up Doy Pouch with Spout | Vivo Packaging | Liquid Packaging Supplies Melbourne (https://www.vivopak.com.au/spout-pouches/by-size/) 500ml 60c each.


How do you get it into the bag?

[hurcorh]

How do you get it into the bag?

Just a cheap plastic funnel from the dollar store. Nothing crazy.

[FenceFurniture]

Interesting to read all the comments re different wax oils etc. my question is does anyone buff the finish with any sort of polish??Nup, not me.



How do you get it into the bag?The trick is make sure the bag has no air (or very little) in it to begin with, and then the liquid can just push the bag out as it flows through the funnel. If there is air in the bag, sooner or later it's going to want to bubble out, and that's when the "difficulties" start. I just use a cheap collapsible silicon funnel from Amazon (pack of 4 was $miserable, 2 for the kitchen, 2 for the shed). They're great because they can be stretched over a slightly larger male orifice, or squeezed into a slightly smaller female one. (...I...never mind :D )

The next trick is squeezing any residual air out of the top so it doesn't go gummy around the cap. You'll have to develop your own technique there...

[qwertyu]

Might have to try those bags for some of my finishes

Ive been using glad wrap in the tins - I push it down so there is contact on the surface of the finish and up the walls so there is very little 'air' contacting the finish. On Osmo it would still skin over with enough time once you get to about 50% but on Fiddes I have found the shelf life to be excellent with the glad wrap. I have a 2.5L tin that was about 50% that sat for about 6 months and opened it recently and it was still like new. With osmo, even if it didnt skin over, you could tell the oil was different.

[qwertyu]

Do you use a new bag every time you open a new can or reuse the same bag?

[FenceFurniture]

With cheap bags, just use a new one each time.

[qwertyu]

Do you have to clean your silicon or plastic funnels? Or can you let it dry and peel off the HWO

[FenceFurniture]

As they are silicon, very little sticks, and I just wipe them with paper.

[aarggh]

I saw you said you get a couple years out of the bags, how do the bag nozzles hold up to use FF?

[FenceFurniture]

I saw you said you get a couple years out of the bags, how do the bag nozzles hold up to use FF?You mean the screw top nozzles? They get a bit of snot around them and sometimes need the rounded jaws of pliers to gently coax them along, but then I can usually pull the crud off once the cap is off.