Vise restoration filler

[BEM]

I have recently bought a small Dawn bench vise (3.5") which has some cut marks on the rounded top, presumably from a hacksaw. I have stripped it back to bare metal and think I want to use a filler to fill those gouges before priming and painting. I have seen videos on YouTube where people do this but I don't know if the filler lasts or if it breaks over time with use. Does anyone have experience with any particular brands and have a recommendation?

Thanks guys

[BobL]

If the marks are on the jaws I would replace the jaws - on some vices you can flip them over.

if its a fabricated steel vice the best solution woud be to weld over the cracks.
If its cast iron they can still be welded but it newest to be done with Nickel rods and preferably by someone that knows what they're doing.

[China]

Devcon

[BEM]

Thanks BobL. It's not on the jaws. I don't know anyone who could weld it.

Cheers China. I came across Devcon today as I was looking for something to use but even a small container will cost more than the vise cost me. I was after a more cost effective option. If there are no good cheaper options I might just paint it but I'd rather fill it if I can.

[Mountain Ash]

Hi B. Way off topic but I think you were looking for saw files a little while ago. I just bought some Pferd ones from AA Industrial in Bayswater. Quite small ones are available.

[BEM]

Cheers Mountain Ash. I've shopped at AA Industrial before but never seen the saw files. I'll have to go check them out. I've got plenty of Wiltshire 6" triangle files but nothing smaller.

[auscab]

I was looking for something to use but even a small container will cost more than the vise cost me. I was after a more cost effective option. If there are no good cheaper options I might just paint it but I'd rather fill it if I can.

There are these sort of fillers you can buy that may do it well . cast iron filler - Google Search (https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=cast+iron+filler)

Ive never used any of them . When I fill timber or metal the fast way I usually use Sellys Plastibond when I want quality filling. Its a good hard filler. Better than all the other similar types. You could mix bench grinder dust in with it just so you know its partly metal in there . If its just saw marks and its being painted then just filler would do. If you dont have Plastibond then use a two pack epoxy glue . Add some metal dust to that even . Add oxide colours to if you have them. A bit of Black oxide that brickies use to colour cement.

[clear out]

I’ve used car bog for the past 50 years, stuff from Repco etc is ok.
I personally don’t like plastibond found it doesn’t go off as hard as the car bog.

As Rob suggested you could make your own metal filler with araldite or similar epoxy and metal filings.
The slow cure epoxys end up harder than the 5 minute stuff after curing.
I have a 20 litre drum of Al filler somewhere in the stash, used for epoxy moulds for lost wax castings.These dump heat quickly for high turnaround of waxes.
Ive also used cast iron filler in epoxy moulds to keep the heat up, these were used with cynoacrilides for chair production.
All very messy stuff and good dermo instigators if your that way inclined.
Why not just file the hacksaw marks out, could look quite unique:D
H.

[BEM]

"File the hacksaw marks out...."!!!!! :oo: I think not! :;
I'd like to be able to weld them but will settle for a filler.
I think I'm going to get SCA Lightweight Body Filler (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-lightweight-body-filler---500g/287584.html) from Super Cheap Auto. Someone else told me that's what they used for a bench grinder restoration.
That is unless someone has a horror story about it.

Thanks for all the advice guy.

[woodPixel]

Stuff you want is called Permatex "liquid metal filler".

It's used by mag wheel repairers and Street Machiners to profile parts prior to shaping.

[BEM]

Great! Thanks WP. I'll check it out.

[DJ’s Timber]

Been trying to remember what’s called, finally came to me.

JB Weld (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/jb-weld-jb-weld-original-cold-weld-56.8g/599267.html), easy to mix and apply and most importantly, goes rock hard, can be filed, ground or sanded to shape.

[Bushmiller]

Thanks BobL. It's not on the jaws. I don't know anyone who could weld it.

Cheers China. I came across Devcon today as I was looking for something to use but even a small container will cost more than the vise cost me. I was after a more cost effective option. If there are no good cheaper options I might just paint it but I'd rather fill it if I can.

BEM

If Devon frightens you don't consider cast iron. I recently bought six rods. The 1KG pack they came from was $225! I didn't look to see what I was charged for my six. It was too horrible to contemplate. Add to this the work has to be heated, the rods have to be heated and the whole job allowed to cool very slowly. I bought the rods to repair a saw vice, but it will be some time before I get the chance to attempt that even after having consulted a boiler maker friend on my shift at work. Add to that a bottle of something to get up the courage. :)

If it is only visual, DJ's suggestion seems a goer.

Regards
Paul

[BEM]

Thanks for the recommendation DJ. YOW!!! Bushmiller. I know you love your saws but damn that's expensive.

[BobL]

JB Weld is good stuff.

In 2007, one of my big chainsaws developed oil leaks from the oil tank. The saw must have been used to cut palms by a previous owner. Unless a saw is washed after use on Palms the sap can eat the magnesium saw case and can make a real mess. The leaks were mm size craters in the casing under the clutch drive going down to a pinhole leaks. I carefully cleaned the cracks and used JB Weld and 15 years later the KB weld is still there and no leaks.

To get the stuff to stick HARD make sure you carefully follow the cleaning instructions.

[Bushmiller]

Thanks for the recommendation DJ. YOW!!! Bushmiller. I know you love your saws but damn that's expensive.

BEM

It was the full pack that was $225. I bought just six rods as they broke into the pack for me. I think they may have cost $20, which is still a lot of money.

Regards
Paul

[BEM]

I ended up using the SCA Lightweight Body Filler (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-lightweight-body-filler---500g/287584.html)from Super Cheap Auto. I didn't use it all over. Just on those cuts and one larger gouge on the side. I used a Dulux etch primer and Rust-oleum Motospray red heat proof paint. I topped it with Cabot's cabothane satin spray. I wiped some camellia oil on the non finished parts. I don't know if it will protect them long term but I'm open to suggestions. Here's a before and after shot. I didn't want to make it look totally new, as it's not. Just clean it up and make it presentable. I'm pretty happy with the results.

516399

516400

516401

[Bushmiller]

BEM

That has come up very well indeed. You can give yourself a pat on the back.

Regards
Paul

[BEM]

Thanks Paul.
I'm interested in buying a Sandblasting cabinet to help with tasks like this, which I enjoy. I love seeing things sandblasted in resto videos. It's my favourite part of the video. I know nothing about them. Can anyone tell me what features I need to look for? I probably don't want to spend more that $500 - $600; unless I can be convinced otherwise. :rolleyes:

Lyndon

[China]

The cabinet is the cheap part, you then add the gun + hose + compressor at least 14 cfm to make it worthwhile

[BEM]

Thanks for the info Chris. Damn. I thought I'd be able to use my current compressor but when I checked it, it was only 7.8 cfm. It sounds like it's going to be a more expensive purchase than I thought.

[yvan]

I ended up using the SCA Lightweight Body Filler (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-lightweight-body-filler---500g/287584.html)from Super Cheap Auto. I didn't use it all over. Just on those cuts and one larger gouge on the side. I used a Dulux etch primer and Rust-oleum Motospray red heat proof paint. I topped it with Cabot's cabothane satin spray. I wiped some camellia oil on the non finished parts. I don't know if it will protect them long term but I'm open to suggestions. Here's a before and after shot. I didn't want to make it look totally new, as it's not. Just clean it up and make it presentable. I'm pretty happy with the results.

516399

516400

516401


Congratulations, it's ready to be exhibited on the mantlepiece - with a glass cloche to protect the camellia oil from any dust :D

[BEM]

Congratulations, it's ready to be exhibited on the mantlepiece - with a glass cloche to protect the camellia oil from any dust :D


Ha! Never. My tools are for using. Though I like them to look nice as well.