How to plumb in a sink in a garden shed.

[abrogard]

It's a twin tub sink and we're putting cold water on only. Unless a really cheap online hot water thing comes onto the market.

The thing is I've found the two tub thing for under the sink that joins the two tubs into one outlet.

Now I figure I simply need something to screw into that, turn 90 degrees and exit through the shed tin wall.

The grey water will just spill out into a trough and be used for garden water.

So I don't need any P traps or fancy stuff.

But I don't find anything that is simply a 90 degree bend. Do I have to make it up for myself from a couple of pieces of 2" pvc and an elbow? But it looks onl the picture like the bottom of the 'two tub' adapter thing has a kind of screw fitting.

What's the reality?

And while I'm here how about the two semicircular washers on the bottom of the two tub tap we've got? They go one on top of the sink and one below? Or both at the same side?

All looks a very frail method of fastening to me - just that one about 1/4" threaded rod. That's how it's done?

[rwbuild]

Flat rubber seal goes on the bottom and the only leak proof connection is an adjustable S trap that screws onto the bottom of the twin bowl joiner, just turn the last leg of the S trap to 90deg, cut and fit short piece 50mm pvc pipe out through wall to trough. You will be glad of the trap, it will keep insects and crawly types out of the sink.

[abrogard]

flat rubber seal. of the two on the tap? bottom one on the bottom under the sink? good.

I can't find a simple 'S'. perhaps they don' sell them in Aus.

You can't pick me something off this page can you? This is our supplier here is about all. (countryfied here)

Pvc Traps - Bunnings Australia (https://www.bunnings.com.au/products/bathroom-plumbing/plumbing/pipe-fittings/pvc-traps)

[Wrongwayfirst]

Caroma 50mm P Trap - Bunnings Australia (https://www.bunnings.com.au/caroma-50mm-p-trap_p4783929) one of these goes underneath one of these Caroma 50mm Double Bowl Connector - Bunnings Australia (https://www.bunnings.com.au/caroma-50mm-double-bowl-connector_p4783961)

as said keeps bugs out and most of all keeps smell out sinks need waste outlet, this sort of thingKinetic 90 x 50mm Stainless Steel Plug And Waste Reducer - Bunnings Australia (https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-90-x-50mm-stainless-steel-plug-and-waste-reducer_p4920582)

p trap goes through the wall s trap goes through the floor.

506626

[abrogard]

You've done such a mighty job it makes me feel bad about asking more....

but the P trap - I have to get straight pipe of some sort that screws into that? It seems to have a threaded end there...

And i don't follow the 'plug and waste reducer' ? I get the idea that it's either the P trap or it, is that it? Not the both of them? It looks like a thing for screwing right into the sink, too, where our sink already has something there fitted in, with a downward leg of about 100mm or 4 ".

Funny that, too. Both sinks have this fitting but one of them, the main one, has a threaded rod running down in there too, somehow. Don't remember now. ( the shed's in another place entirely, not where I am now ). Wonder what that's about...

[BobL]

I agree about using a P or S trap , we had small frogs crawling back up into the sink and depending on what I put down there it sometimes stank.

[DJ’s Timber]

but the P trap - I have to get straight pipe of some sort that screws into that? It seems to have a threaded end .

The threaded end has a rubber flange inside and you slip the straight pipe into it and then screw the threaded end to squash the rubber flange onto the pipe to seal it

[DJ’s Timber]

Here you go, just happen to have one sitting here.

506638 506639

[abrogard]

Aha. All solved.

Thanks very much all concerned.

So I'll get the double bowl connector and the 50mm P and a length of straight pipe to put in the end.

And I'll fasten the tap down on the sink with one washer on top and one underneath.

And a garden hose running into the adapter nut on it.

And we'll be done. :)

Water in the shed.

p.s. thanks DJ, just saw your latest post with the pics. They put me in the picture alright. :)

[rwbuild]

flat rubber seal. of the two on the tap? bottom one on the bottom under the sink? good.

I can't find a simple 'S'. perhaps they don' sell them in Aus.

You can't pick me something off this page can you? This is our supplier here is about all. (countryfied here)

Pvc Traps - Bunnings Australia (https://www.bunnings.com.au/products/bathroom-plumbing/plumbing/pipe-fittings/pvc-traps)

Caroma 50mm White Combination S And P Traps With Dishwasher Connection - Bunnings Australia (https://www.bunnings.com.au/caroma-50mm-white-combination-s-and-p-traps-with-dishwasher-connection_p4783898)

[Wrongwayfirst]

Aha. All solved.

Thanks very much all concerned.

So I'll get the double bowl connector and the 50mm P and a length of straight pipe to put in the end.

And I'll fasten the tap down on the sink with one washer on top and one underneath.

And a garden hose running into the adapter nut on it.

And we'll be done. :)

Water in the shed.

p.s. thanks DJ, just saw your latest post with the pics. They put me in the picture alright. :)

garden hose will def give you water in the shed but not the way you think. Garden hose is likely to burst if left under pressure the entire time. Ok if you turn the feeder tap on and off when you leave and enter but there is a reason they don’t use garden hose when building houses🤭

[abrogard]

I know what you mean. I've had some little experience with them. We'll do it just to the get the thing up and running. Then I'll improve it. I guess that white pvc stuff is the way to go - bury it in the ground? About 30 metres or more and concrete to navigate through.

That's going to be my next question: what fittings required each end of the pvc when it has a garden tap at one end and a sink tap at the other?

And I guess I might have to take the tap off and put a T piece under it so's the T can feed the shed sink.

Sometimes the world seems to be nothing but plumbing.

[Beardy]

I know what you mean. I've had some little experience with them. We'll do it just to the get the thing up and running. Then I'll improve it. I guess that white pvc stuff is the way to go - bury it in the ground? About 30 metres or more and concrete to navigate through.

That's going to be my next question: what fittings required each end of the pvc when it has a garden tap at one end and a sink tap at the other?

And I guess I might have to take the tap off and put a T piece under it so's the T can feed the shed sink.

Sometimes the world seems to be nothing but plumbing.

Use the blue line poly pipe and irrigation fittings, it is permanent and will withstand mains pressure in all conditions. All the fittings and pipe are available at Bunnings. It doesn’t get any easier than that.

[abrogard]

Well that sounds pretty great to me. No 'ifs' and 'buts' - just blue line irrigation will do the job.

And fittings are available for each end of it to connect to the two different taps - or the T piece at one end if I put that in?

[BobL]

There's garden hose and then there is GARDEN HOSE.

Because I had heaps of white 20mm retic pipe under the house so I decided to use it to supply water to my shed. It's hard plumbed ~25m away, underground from the tap in the shed to a riser next to a rarely used garden tap on the side of the house . Between the riser and the garden tap initially I used a 500mm length of quality garden hose. I did this in case I ever wanted to use the tap. It was this way for ~10 years - zero leaks. I should add the short length of hose and garden tap are in the shade

I have since added a twin diverter to the garden tap and connected the riser to the tap using a length of braided hose such as it used to connect up basins inside houses.

As long as your hose connection is outside where it won't flood if it leaks you should be OK. I usually turn the garden tap off if we're going away for more than a couple of days.

There's also a horse blanket washing machine on the side of the shed, the waste water of which goes onto the lawn. This machine was initially set up to temporarily get its water via the garden hose on a reel on the back of the house. This hose just lay on the brick to the tap about 15m away bit was a bit of a PITA setting it up every time I wanted to use teh machine. While doing a bit of a clean up under the house I found enough bits of old cheap garden hose to set up more permanent connection so that it ran out of the way behind potplants on the side of the paved area. The water in the hose was normally turned off when not in use and used this setup for about a year, sometimes forgetting to turn the water for a couple of days, before the hose started to leak from a section of hose that was constantly exposed to the sunlight. I replaced the hose with a new mid range hose and even though parts are still exposed to the sun, about 4 years later have not had any problems although I do not usually leave the water on.

I wouldn't do this for any water supplies inside even a shed.

[abrogard]

I take your point. But I played with different quality hoses a bit and had no luck so I think you're final observation is about right: don't use garden hose for indoor water supplies.

I had an underground black poly irrigation system in the front garden which was all buggered up. So I thought I'll make it accessible and I put a riser = black poly - and a tap at the top.

Then I thought that's too far away so I ran garden hose from that tap to another tap I mounted on a frame closer to the action.

Well that hose kept leaking. it would blow right off the tap fitting. It would split and leak. It would dribble water all the time at the tap fitting. And I saw how when I had it really strong fastened it would slowly slowly be swelling up larger and larger..

So I gave up on garden hose and put an underground galv piple run in and riser to a tap.

And that's the whole of my plumbing experience.

Now it looks like I need to come to grips with blue stripe black poly and fittings. I think that's pretty pricey stuff, too. Hope I don't have to buy 100m just to get the run I want.

:)

[BobL]

Thin walled back poly is not intended for continuous water pressure either, but threaded or compression thick wall black poly can be used.

In 1985 I built a laboratory at work that had to be as metal free as possible. A cyclone rated demountable 6 x 3m shell with ply lining was delivered to us and set up on blocks in a car park. It came with one copper connected tap, a PVC sink and waste connections, couple of power points and lights, but I gutted the lot and started from scratch. I rewired all the electrical - the two breaker box was replaced with a 20 breaker box (13 breakers- every lab hot plate had its own breaker). New plumbing consisted of 2 PVC sinks, and 3 taps in thick black poly. The PVC waste had to be replaced as it needed to be rerouted. I relined the internal walls, constructed the false air return walls and recirculating HEPA air filtration system, benches, fume hoods and acid distillation system, all in HDPE/Polypropylene/Polycarbonate. Testing showed the air inside this lab was as clean as a hospital operating theatre,

When the time came for the Uni plumber to connect the water up he looked through the lab and said - not legal - both because of the materials used and the fact that I did not have a license. I said, - OK I'll strip it all out and you can come back and reinstall it :)

Suddenly things weren't quite so illegal and he went around the lab pointing out a few small changes - like he didn't like our 2 plastic taps and made us change them for powder coated ones which cost $350 each!
I installed the new taps and then replaced them with the plastic ones after he connected us. Even the plumber recognised that at worst if the system leaked, the water was just going to flow into the car park. The lab was supposed to be a temporary (5 year) operation as we were going to get fancy new labs in another building. However as usual it took 17 years to get the new labs so the lab was in continuous use up until then. No leaks. If I was to do it again I'd use the blue stripe stuff - don't remember it being available back then.

When the old lab was finally replace in 2002 it was gutted and everything inside the lab went into a couple of skips and I score several items from the skips. The still brand new white powder coated goose necked tap, and the sign on the front of the lab.
Now they are both in/on my shed

506644 506645

[abrogard]

Inspiring story. Thanks for that. Enjoyed every bit of it.

Listen I'm in comms with a guy at an irrigation store and he knows exactly what i want, he says, but he won't tell me or show me a picture until I give him the exact measurements of the garden tap and the sink flexy thing.
Even though both of them are pretty standard in Aus.

Do you think you could point me towards a description, maybe p;cs, of what I need to make these connections?

[BobL]

Standard garden taps have a 20mm (3/4”) thread, the bigger chunkier ones are 25mm (1”)

If your flexy thing is standard it will be 15mm (1/2”)connection

[Beardy]

Well that sounds pretty great to me. No 'ifs' and 'buts' - just blue line irrigation will do the job.

And fittings are available for each end of it to connect to the two different taps - or the T piece at one end if I put that in?

Every type of fitting and option is readily available including threaded connectors for brass or galvanised fittings so will easily join up to your existing water source and to a tap fitting
Plumbers use this product often

[abrogard]

what are they called? any place I can view a selection of them maybe?

I found this place but their pics don't clue me in on what they do, how they do it, which I'd need (if any of them)

[Beardy]

what are they called? any place I can view a selection of them maybe?

I found this place but their pics don't clue me in on what they do, how they do it, which I'd need (if any of them)

3G Metric Compression - Philmac (https://www.philmac.com.au/products/compression-fittings/3g-metric-compression/)

They are on the shelf at Bunnings or any plumbing supplier

[abrogard]

Thanks for that. An interesting story. Make it all come to life.

I have another little question maybe not worth asking:

any hints or wrinkles, dangers, advice, about putting the hole in the wall of the tin shed?

I'm thinking there's nothing special. Just do it however you like. But thought I might ask.

I can see there's maybe the possibility of cutting to a size to take available grommets?

Or perhaps cutting so's you get 'spikes' of tin project outwards and lay along the pipe make a better connection - easier to make waterproof, draughtproof?

Nothing, I imagine. But just thought i'd ask while I"m here.

[Beardy]

You can pretty up the hole with grommets etc to look nice and perhaps keep out vermin
The poly pipe is extremely resilient and the sharp edges won’t worry it at all if you don’t

[rwbuild]

Cheap hole saw of the closest size to OD of waste pipe 54mm from memory and slow to moderate speed in a drill, remember to put a bead of silicon around the pipe on the inside of your shed when you finally fit the pipe

[abrogard]

That's a good one. Thanks for that.

I just got a quote. For 25mm polypipe with elbows at 25mm too, of course. And they're $13 each.

we need 21m of pipe and

I'm thinking maybe I would be better with 20mm pipe and fittings, if they make it?

The tap the water comes from is 20mm and the flexhose fitting it goes into is 20mm. Though went i sen the young fellow to get me an adapter he came back with a brass 20mm to 25mm.

I don't know why.

I assume there's a difference in threads somewhere along this chain that I don't know about. And that's what this 'adapter' is doing. Changing between the tap hread at 20mm and some other thread ( pipe thread ?) at 25mm. But why go to 25mm ? I wonder if there's any truth in any of that?

But either way it seems silly to have 25mm pipe choked at each end. Not that there's much differenc in the price for my hob - about the same for 21m of 25mm as for 50m of 20mm ( which I have to buy because they don't cut up 20mm)

I think. If I found the right stuff. I googled and found some black polypipe which it said has a blue stripe. But it might be entirely wrong for this job, I don't know.

But there might be a significant difference in fittings costs.

[rwbuild]

The blue strip denotes potable water use only, the green strip denotes non potable water ie: dam, bore, etc but is still ok to use for potable. If there is a irrigation supplier near you, see them for pipe and fittings, they will cut to required length or nearest metre. Also try one of the specialist plumbing suppliers ie: Reece, Tradelink, etc

[abrogard]

Hey thats good to know I was thinking it had more to do about pressure and ability to bear being out in the sun.

Seems like really I could anything at all except garden hose?

And perhaps the while poly we we see everywhere won't take the sun?