Antique buffet needs new backing board

[susandocurtis]

This is my next project. My grandmothers antique buffet needs a new backing board. (Amongst other things such as handles, peeling veneer and top joins are loose and separated.) But first the backing board which appears to be the simplest though nothing is easy when it comes to antiques. From what I can tell the 3 separated boards currently dangling off the back would suggest it is 3 ply and as such can be removed along with attachments (tacks?) and replaced. Would that be correct or is there something I am missing here? Thankfully I am now in regional southern NSW and our local woodies may be re-grouping so I am assuming they can help me with the veneer situation, the handles being rusty just might need replacing to a different model. Thanking you in advance for any advice you can offer me.

[Potts]

I reckon you’re pretty safe with your assumptions.

[susandocurtis]

Thanks Potts. Guess I’m ready to dive in then..!

[auscab]

Sometimes a back like that can be placed on a flat board and glue , White glue or titebond , can be spread in between the loose parts , Paper placed on top and then another flat board and clamp it flat . Saves the hunting around and cutting if its not to far gone . Otherwise you have to buy , cut and stain and re fit a new one .

Looks like you need the practice any way . By the looks of those bits of veneer on the end panels .

Rob

[Xanthorrhoeas]

The original backing ply would have been made with hide glue. It can delaminate with moisture and temperature changes. As Auscab says, it could be worth re-gluing. New ply will never look right. You could reglue with Titebond liquid hide glue - it should bond easily with the original glue and is easy to work with. That would be a good start. The same glue will work well with all your other repairs.

if you get really enthusiastic look for an old double-walled cast glue pot and make up your own hide glue mix with pearl hide glue.

[Blackout]

If you do end up removing the back I would consider any inside work with the easy access before replacing it. When the ply is too far gone for me I try replacing with similar vintage ply of other pieces I have stripped. Look forward to seeing you progress.

Cheers

[susandocurtis]

Thank you auscab, Xanthorrhoeas,and Blackout for your replies, unfortunately for some reason I did not get the usual alert that I had a reply to my query so I began renos without seeing your suggestions. The backing is really fragile though and not being a real stickler for antique renos I have removed the back in its entirety for replacement. Yes I noticed a couple of shelving units need replacement as well so I will be doing those prior to setting a new back (already stained both sides ready) in place. From my previous foray into my grandmothers furniture restoration I have got some titebond 3 glue and suitable clamps. Having trouble removing the tacks though. My first attempt left me with the tack head in my tack remover/pincers and the rest of it still in the unit. I have now given it a good dose of furniture oil all over especially the back where the tacks are. Any tips for this operation please?

[susandocurtis]

484993Picture of back removed

[Thumbthumper]

Having trouble removing the tacks though. My first attempt left me with the tack head in my tack remover/pincers and the rest of it still in the unit. I have now given it a good dose of furniture oil all over especially the back where the tacks are. Any tips for this operation please?

If the head pops off a tack, you can try to grab a twist the shaft with flat-nosed pliers.
If the shafts are cut (square sides), you can try to pull them straight out.

A lot of times, you just have to nail-punch the shaft under and bury it forever :)

[susandocurtis]

Thanks Thumbthumper, By saying "nail-punch the shaft under and bury it.." I'm assuming that you mean hit the top of the shaft w a punch straight back into the wood? Not hit the shaft bending it down as a miss hit and bury it bent into the wood. The under term had me wondering.
Thanks for your advice.

[Thumbthumper]

Yes.
That's exactly what I meant.
Drive it straight.

[susandocurtis]

Okay, thank you Xanthorrhoeas, Auscab, Potts, & Blackout, I hope you are still watching this thread as I am up to the next step but puzzled as to how to hold up the backing board, ensure it is straight, glue and clamp it, with just 2 hands?! Also with the buffet having a decorative top that stands above the top surface how do I get to clamp it so that it holds in the middle of the top. 485799

Another question; Is it necessary to tack the backing board after glueing it - which is how it was previously affixed. I dont feel happy banging on the thing knowing how fragile it can be.
Thanks again for all your help.

[Thumbthumper]

I'm not too familiar with furniture from this period, but I don't believe the backs were glued on.

I would just nail it on with appropriate tacks or flat headed nails. You wouldn't need any clamping for this.
You'll need to lay it down on it's front for support.
I may have also left it slightly oversized and planed the edges to get a perfect fit. You could then stain the edge if required.

This advice is just what I would do :U

Good luck.

you're getting there!

[susandocurtis]

Thanks Thumbthumper. That’s a new take on it. Will have to take off cupboard doors to lay down (or at least the handles). I was thinking of putting it on a large movers dolly to re-locate it so that may be what I lay it on. Appreciate your help.
Susan

[Lappa]

I agree with Thumbthumper. All the units I’ve restored had the backs nailed on only.

[susandocurtis]

Thanks Lappa. I’ll be setting it up to lay it down tomorrow then. Cheers.