Storing finishes? Stopping stoff going off

[Bernmc]

What are people using to store finishes/varnishes/paints after opening the original container?

Is there some cunning airtight/air-free container out there? I have some pricey FW Floorseal oil which I know goes off, so I'd like to put it into some smaller containers that I can store longer term, and use one by one...

[groeneaj]

Google “stop loss bags”. Been using them for a few years now and they work well.

Edit, here they are. I got mine from Lee Valley but looks like they now stock them here: Stop Loss Bags - StopLossBags (http://www.timberbits.com/woodriver-stop-loss-bags)

[Bernmc]

Thanks G - those are the wee beasties I heard someone chatting about :2tsup:. Looks like they'll be perfect.

[mature one]

Carbatec used to have bags to store product in once opened I have stored MinWax finish for probably two years so far still good to use.

[Bernmc]

Carbatec seem to be selling the add on bits like funnels, but not the bags themselves.

I've ordered direct from the US manufacturer. Dispatched within an hour or two of ordering.

[mature one]

yep online search was the same bugger not having the storage bags as well

[Bernmc]

I got 8 bags, a funnel (although I suspect any funnel will do), and a few spare lids for US$44 including delivery from the States. Which is about the same price as the bags alone + delivery from the locals.

[BobL]

Here's a tip I have heard about that I use with glue but have not tried it with finishes.
If you have a TIG welder that uses Argon gas you can easily displace the air in a can with a shot of Ar.
Ar is inert so the glue and paint should not react with it and it won't form a skin or degrade.

[russ57]

Works for wine too!

Russ

[BobL]

Works for wine too!

Russ

And coffee beans - reduces the rate at which they dry out and go rancid.

[D.W.]

I have house made varnish (which is notoriously short lived - a couple of months of shelf life) in the stop loss bags, and it seems after about 6 months or so to be the same as new.

House made meaning made in my back yard by heating resins and oils until they bond (which is about 600 degrees F).

[Chrism3]

I think one answer might be to store varnish upside down. Then any skin that forms will be at the bottom.

[woodPixel]

Argon gas!

Big bottle at Bunnings for $40. Lasts forever...

Same as Bloxygen. It's apparently "ultra pure"... Whatever that means.

It's funny, I was reading about the compressed-air industry only last week. Oxygen, nitrogen, etc.... It's really quite interesting.

Edit: forgot to mention my mates at GasWeld. Awesome shop, well worth the time to look around: https://www.gasweld.com.au/shop-by-brand/speed-gas-the-power-to-own-your-gas-bottle/gas-argon-includes-c-bottle-size-pony-175676

[aarggh]

Those bags might be perfect for my Cabots Danish oil, I lose a tin every couple years when it spontaneously decides to turn to gel!

[Dougsshed]

Another trick I've heard but haven't tried yet is adding marbles to the container after each use. This brings the liquid level back up to the lid level thus expelling most of the air. Marbles don't cost much either. Ball bearings would also do the trick.

[Therapy]

A skilled woodworker gave me a tip that is less messy than using marbles.

Cut a disc from bubble wrap the same size as the tin/container and lay it in the surface of the finish. Works for me.

[Chrism3]

Another trick I've heard but haven't tried yet is adding marbles to the container after each use. This brings the liquid level back up to the lid level thus expelling most of the air. Marbles don't cost much either. Ball bearings would also do the trick.


Good idea, but you couldn't get them into (or out of) Minwax cans.

[Dougsshed]

Good idea, but you couldn't get them into (or out of) Minwax cans.
Ball bearings come in lots of different sizes :U

[BobL]

Another gas that can be used is CO2 so if you have something an old soda syphon around that would work.
It might not work so well on anything water based as these would absorb the CO2 by for anything solvent/oil based it supposedly works fine.
Nitrogen also works although the chances of having that on hand is low.

[soundman]

This is an on going and very old question.

most of the solutions are likewise old ...... most of them marginally effective.

Lots of finishes will degrade, regardless even unopened in the original container....... particularly the reactive finishes with metalic driers.

BY far the best option is to buy only enough that you will use it all quickly.

Air makes everything worse ....... another problem is the lids on cans failing to reseal for various reasons.

decanting larger tins into smaller ones right from the start or as the unused portion larger can becomes small enough.

I buy clean unused cans from my auto refinish supplier.

I am in the habit of buying a 20 liter of a popular etch prime undercoat, ..... I decant into a new, clean, screw top 5 liter mower fuel type can and pour out from that for small tasks.

cheers

[soundman]

This is an on going and very old question.

most of the solutions are likewise old ...... most of them marginally effective.

Lots of finishes will degrade, regardless even unopened in the original container....... particularly the reactive finishes with metalic driers.

BY far the best option is to buy only enough that you will use it all quickly.

Air makes everything worse ....... another problem is the lids on cans failing to reseal for various reasons.

decanting larger tins into smaller ones right from the start or as the unused portion larger can becomes small enough.

I buy clean unused cans from my auto refinish supplier.

I am in the habit of buying a 20 liter of a popular etch prime undercoat, ..... I decant into a new, clean, screw top 5 liter mower fuel type can and pour out from that for small tasks.

cheers

[rjtwin501]

I use wine cask bladders.
Good fun emptying them, would have heaps more if they came filled with beer.
Simple with a large opening to fill.
Also use them for water when camping, fill them up and freeze in any shape you like and is usable water when thawed.
Cheers
John T