Finishing wooden buttons

[powderpost]

I need some help, please. I make wooden buttons for sale at the markets. I normally make up about 2500 buttons in one batch, this lasts for a while then I make another batch as required.
So far I have used sprayed lacquer, good I have to back off the air pressure and the lacquer doesn't atomize enough. There is a very fine line between not enough and too much air pressure. The first time I tried spraying, I used normal air pressure, that was ten years ago, I am still finding buttons from that lot in the shed.
I have tried small pieces of wax in a tumbler, but that was too uneven and I need a sheen of some sort. Small pieces if cloth soaked in oil darkens the wood too much especially the lighter coloured woods.
Is there some one out there that has done this or can offer some practical solutions.
Up until now I have left the buttons natural with out a coating, but lately I am getting requests for shiny finishes.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Jim

438856
This is a batch of about 1000 buttons.

[artful bodger]

Hi Jim, you can get watyl estapol in a spray can. It does not have the same pressure as an air compressor and PROBABLY would not blow them around your shed.

[powderpost]

Thanks AB, I backed the pressure right off and that still turned tthe buttons into projectiles. Still a thought and I will get a can from Mitre 10 in the morning and try, a report will follow... thanks

Jim

[gidgee 1]

Jim
Would dipping be a better proposition?
A piece of hooked wire through the hole dip in lacquer, hang up to dry.
Cheers
gidgee 1

[powderpost]

Gidgee.. Good idea but, I am talking about 2500 buttons per batch. They would need to be turned to prevent a "run" from forming on the lower edge. Thanks for the idea any way.. :)

Jim

Jim
Would dipping be a better proposition?
A piece of hooked wire through the hole dip in lacquer, hang up to dry.
Cheers
gidgee 1

[Beardy]

I was thinking of dipping them as well but in a penetrating style sealer that will give them a lustre but not sit on the surface and leave drip marks like an estapol type product would.
There are a number of those style of products available Cabot’s and Sikkens both do them

tip them in a container full and scoop them out with a small collendar and drain on lint free cloth or paper towels

[Arron]

Just thinking out aloud here, and it’s probably rubbish, but I used to do a lot of tiny wooden drawer handles and what I did was to get some of that wide double sided tape, such as Aldi sells very cheaply. Cover a board with the double sided tape, and press the handles onto it. Spray across the lot at once. Allow to dry. Turn over, spray again.

The main problem is most finishes will eat into the tape and make a mess - at least most finishes containing lacquer thinner will. You would have to find a compatible tape and finish combination.

It was quick, and they didn’t go anywhere - those parts I can guarantee.

[powderpost]

I was thinking of dipping them as well but in a penetrating style sealer that will give them a lustre but not sit on the surface and leave drip marks like an estapol type product would.
There are a number of those style of products available Cabot’s and Sikkens both do them
tip them in a container full and scoop them out with a small collendar and drain on lint free cloth or paper towels

Beardy, that sound like a possible plan, do you know a product name?


Jim

[powderpost]

Just thinking out aloud here, and it’s probably rubbish, but I used to do a lot of tiny wooden drawer handles and what I did was to get some of that wide double sided tape, such as Aldi sells very cheaply. Cover a board with the double sided tape, and press the handles onto it. Spray across the lot at once. Allow to dry. Turn over, spray again.

The main problem is most finishes will eat into the tape and make a mess - at least most finishes containing lacquer thinner will. You would have to find a compatible tape and finish combination.

It was quick, and they didn’t go anywhere - those parts I can guarantee.

Arron, good idea, but I am doing over 2000 at a time. Thanks any way...

Jim

[Bohdan]

Since you already have a tumbler you could try something like this (https://www.zuelch.com/Products/Tumbling-lacquer-0007113353.html?).

[Beardy]

Beardy, that sound like a possible plan, do you know a product name?


Jim

Maybe Sikkens HLS or Cabot’s decking oil or they have a waterbased version Aquadeck. It might be worth ringing their help lines for a more informed suggestion

[ian]

Just thinking out aloud here, and it’s probably rubbish, but I used to do a lot of tiny wooden drawer handles and what I did was to get some of that wide double sided tape, such as Aldi sells very cheaply. Cover a board with the double sided tape, and press the handles onto it. Spray across the lot at once. Allow to dry. Turn over, spray again.

The main problem is most finishes will eat into the tape and make a mess - at least most finishes containing lacquer thinner will. You would have to find a compatible tape and finish combination.

It was quick, and they didn’t go anywhere - those parts I can guarantee.thinking about this suggestion

you could try replacing Aaron's double sided tape with a sheet of plastic covered with 3M spray adhesive. The buttons should stick, then spray the visible face with lacquer, let dry.

spray the dry finished side with more 3M adhesive and stick a board (3 mm MDF?) to the buttons. Flip upside down, and peel the first layer off.
Spray the unfinished side with lacquer.
pop the buttons off the board when dry.

I wouldn't be surprised if 3M make a product especially for this application.

[Toymaker Len]

Yes, you can use a wet finish in a tumbler. Put the stock in and then pour a small amount of the finish in and set the tumbler going and leave it running for a long time. The toymaker at Seal Rocks used this method on his peg-dolls and it makes a beautiful finish much like a spray laquer.
The company was called Sugar Creek Toys I think and they were very proud of the quality of finish that they got with the tumbler. This would be perfect for the thousands of pieces that you are working with.

[Old Hilly]

I used to make "natural round" wood buttons for people that used to enter 100% hand-made articles in the local agricultural shows. The wood was Black Wattle and the finish was "teak oil" that still comes in a plastic bottle. It was just a case of rub it on, wait a while and then rub it off. The idea was to give the button a bit of colour and get the grain to show up but not to make it look like it had any sort of artificial finish on it. They went on items that were totally hand made; hand shorn, hand spun, hand knitted or woven. I think I may have been helpful in getting someone a Blue Ribbon at the Sydney Royal many years ago. I only did a few dozen at a time and time was not really a problem way back then.

[Robson Valley]

I can understand your reluctance to handle each of 2,500 buttons to apply a finish.

Using a wet finish in a tumbler is exactly how the chocolate coating gets put on raisins (jaffa also?)

Instead of a colander or a strainer, dunk 500 at a time with an open wire basket meant for frying chips.
Drain on a double wire cake rack over paper towel.

There's a shop down my street which makes all sorts of very fancy rustic wooden furniture.
Even canes and/or walking sticks, 50 at a time. They use MinWax Tung Oil Protective Finish.
The first coat is satin, by the 4th coat, water wet glossy. I finish some wood carvings with it.
No brush work. They wear cotton gloves, dip into the bucket of TOPF and wipe it on in seconds.

Does that give you any ideas?

[Mobyturns]

They use MinWax Tung Oil Protective Finish.

Unfortunately MinWax products are becoming difficult to source in Australia.

Jim, I used to do similar with Penetrol Multipurpose Wood Oil - gives a nice satin finish which can be built up to a gloss finish if required using multiple dips.

If using the product be aware that it goes off in the container if you leave airspace above the product. I used the old glass marbles trick to avoid that, but finding glass marbles isn't so easy these days, but glass "pebbles" for interior decorating are readily available.

The Flood Company Australia » Wood Care Products » penetrol_wood_oil (http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/wood_care/penetrol_wood_oil.php)

[woodPixel]

I'm far more interested in how you make them thousands at a time!

[John T]

HI JIM,
I used to make wooden buttons of all different shapes & sizes, I had a board about 2mtrs long with a lot of tacks with the head removed and hung them on the board to spray 100hundred at a time, you don't get overspray when dry turn them to do the other side it worked for me hope this helps regards John t.

[Arron]

Google ‘wooden button making machine’

[woodPixel]

I looked around for how to do it, but other than some single-style $12k Chinese behemoth, or an agonizing hand process, it didn't seem too obvious how one might make "hundreds" at a time....

Would the OP care to enlighten us?

[powderpost]

I looked around for how to do it, but other than some single-style $12k Chinese behemoth, or an agonizing hand process, it didn't seem to obvious how one might make "hundreds" at a time....

Would the OP care to enlighten us?

You seem to have interpreted my post as implying that I could make thousands of buttons "at a time". My post was seeking possible methods of finishing the buttons for sale. I was not trying to impress any one with my ability to make buttons. For your benefit it would take me about two days to make 2000 buttons. Maybe I should not have used the phrase "at a time", Which it appears you have interpreted as being some magical method the produces mass buttons in the blink of an eye, I am not that talented. Perhaps I should used the phrase, "in a batches of", instead. That way you would not be quite so concerned. I make two styles, one employs a self made cutter used in a drill press to cut the face, on the face of a narrow board, then use a circular saw to free the buttons from the blank from the back. The other type has a flat face. A strip 25mm wide is cut off the end of a 150 x 25mm board and turned, and then turned round in a lathe. The buttons are then cut off the end of this round "log", on a circular saw. The two holes are drilled in a drill press using a jig I designed for the purpose.

W.P. Hopefully that satisfies your concerns, and I trust you are now "enlightened".

Jim

[woodPixel]

I'm a keen student! I would ask for a video.... But you might get stroppy :) :)

[Mobyturns]

I'm a keen student! I would ask for a video.... But you might get stroppy :) :)

He might! I would too. :D as for a video don't hold your breath as Jim has trouble with a camera. :rolleyes:

Jim is what we Aussies like to call a "clever old buggar" so on the odd occasion that I get to visit them I like to keep my eye out for some of Jim's jigs and neat little processes in his shed/s that he has developed to "make things." :-

At the risk of not being invited back :( I must admit I have seen the boards with the buttons partially drilled / cut. Now I can put 2 & 2 together :D.

[Mobyturns]

….. some magical method the produces mass buttons in the blink of an eye, I am not that talented.

Now that's what I would like to see. I'm sure I haven't seen a Genie bottle in any of the sheds, but I do believe that you must have some wood elves stashed away somewhere, cause nobody can be that talented. :p

[ian]

Perhaps I should used the phrase, "in a batches of", instead.
I make two styles, one employs a self made cutter used in a drill press to cut the face, on the face of a narrow board, then use a circular saw to free the buttons from the blank from the back.
The other type has a flat face. A strip 25mm wide is cut off the end of a 150 x 25mm board and turned, and then turned round in a lathe. The buttons are then cut off the end of this round "log", on a circular saw. The two holes are drilled in a drill press using a jig I designed for the purpose.Hi Jim

That jig sounds interesting -- can you post a photo?

[woodPixel]

See! People want to know!

It's interesting!