Help! I need an oil for hardwood which won't darken the timber too much

[Reclaimedsean]

Hi, I make picture frames out of reclaimed Australian hardwood (Messmate). I have tried numerous oil finishes on the timber but all the oils darken the timber too much. The best one that I have found was the Task Master 'Busy Bee Liquid Beeswax Furniture Polish'. The timber had a nice matte finish but didn't lose the beautiful natural tones. Unfortunately Bunnings is no longer stocking this item. Does any have any ideas? Thanks for your time, Sean

[cjbfisher]

Osmo Poly-X raw is one I can offer as a suggestion. There is a thread currently going where Fence Furniture is appraising it.

[qwertyu]

I make picture frames too and have the same requirement! I currently use feast weston wax - its in the paint section at bunnings. Ive recently seen that they also stock a furniture wax in the cleaning section.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/feast-watson-mastertouch-500g-natural-carnauba-floors-furniture-wax_p1565758
https://www.bunnings.com.au/glitz-200g-beeswax-polish_p4460472

another option might be the mineral oil/turps/wax finishes? or the mineral oil/wax finishes for cutting boards?

Would love to see some pictures of your frames - I've never thought of using recycled messmate for frames due to the number of gum veins (worried that they will break) so would love to see some of your work!

[Robson Valley]

The surface wood cells have totally dried out, there's just air where the wood water used to be.
That makes the coloring much lighter.
You add anything at all: water, oil, varnish, and the wood will darken as the air is displaced = more fresh/natural.

You need something which sits on top of the wood, such as a wax. Any finish which penetrates will darken the wood.

I made picture frames from weathered scrap crap out behind a long ago saw mill.
Magnificent weathered silver wood.
My finish?
Nothing at all. The frames look as good as the day I made them.

[hurcorh]

Derek Cohen used a minwax or general finishes water based poly product I think it was for his Maple kitchen that kept the nice blonde tones of Maple. Osmo Polyx raw might work or even just the standard polyx satin. Grab some samples.

[qwertyu]

The surface wood cells have totally dried out, there's just air where the wood water used to be.
That makes the coloring much lighter.
You add anything at all: water, oil, varnish, and the wood will darken as the air is displaced = more fresh/natural.

You need something which sits on top of the wood, such as a wax. Any finish which penetrates will darken the wood.

I made picture frames from weathered scrap crap out behind a long ago saw mill.
Magnificent weathered silver wood.
My finish?
Nothing at all. The frames look as good as the day I made them.

I enter quite a few art shows and have noticed that artists choose raw timber frames. Most picture framers get their frames from APM moulding and they have an entire section of raw tassie oak frames

[Robson Valley]

The wood weathered to a silver color over maybe 50(?) years since the mill was torn down.
All you have to do is get the wood wet with water and the entire appearance is ruined until it dries.
I knew I could ruin the wood with any finish at all.

I've attached 8 unprotected wood carvings to a row of fence posts in my back yard, a grape vine trellis.
The carvings have all silvered, maybe 5 years max(?)

[Reclaimedsean]

Thank you everyone for your replies. Waxes and polyurethanes work really well and don't darken the timber too much but unfortunately I'm after an oil for various reasons. Different oils have different effects on the timber such as Danish Oil creates a very dark finish, Tung oil is not as dark, and the liquid beeswax was the lightest. I have experimented with the Gilly Stephenson range and Osmo Polyx. All of them are within the range of light and dark and I was hoping someone might have another option for me. I will check out the ones mentioned above and I will trial them and get back to the thread. Thanks for your time.

[LGS]

Hi,

Here's another you might like to try.

Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil.

Here's some pics of some different timbers done with HBO. It should be noted that the Silky Oak Cabinet and the red Gum were oiled and finished 10 years ago. No further oiling has been done. You will notice also that the finish gives great colour and clear resolution of wood structure, even after 10 years of wear and tear. There is nothing but Hard Burnishing oil on the surface of each example here
436828436826
436800436803

Regards,

Rob

[Barcode54]

Hi Reclaimedsean, I too was chasing this product (well, the original Disney Busy Bee Polish, which was from Ron Disney Sales, which was taken over by Task Master in 2013 (I think) and the product rebranded). I did a search and found on Ebay from hendrahardware seller for $24.99 free delivery. My wife had used this stuff previously on a large dining table we have made from recycled flooring - very knocked around looking but the bees wax provides a very practical and re-appliable finish. She can't remember whether it was any good so I have been looking for some reviews and your comments are the first I've managed to find. She thought the liquid bees wax had been easier to apply and polish up than the solid wax type polishes that require a lot of elbow grease to apply and polish. I may take the risk and order some. Good luck with your searches.