Using wax for the first time

[Mnb]

Hoping for a run down on paste wax use. How and when do people use it?

I have a tin of Gillys furniture polish which is a carnuba wax and some beeswax. (With gum turpentine in it though I don't know if that's relevant.) I have used it on one of two coffee tables. And though I have no major issues with the results I'm unsure of the best way to use it.

On the tin it says to apply sparingly and buff immediately.

The information on the internet I've read or watched says to wait for the solvent to evaporate before buffing. I'm not sure whether to go with the instructions on the tin or to wait. From my brief experience of finishing it seems that following instructions on the label precisely is not necessarily going to get the best result. Opinions?

How "sparingly" would you advise? Cover the surface with a thin but visible layer or put a small amount on the leg and spread it around sort of thing?

Buffing - how long and fast and how much pressure? Does it change the results?

one layer or multiple layers and does that make a difference in the results?

I finished the Tassy Oak with multiple coats of thinned varnish and then wet sanded with 1200 grit lightly. Some areas after the wax aren't as smooth while the rest has just an added shine. Like there is a slight drag when I run my hand over the surface. Would too much wax or too little buffing or either cause it?

I know that's a lot of questions but I like to know my options :)

[Dengue]

I can recommend Ubeaut Traditional Wax. Spread it on a rag, rub it over the workpiece evenly, then a few minutes later buff it off with a clean rag. To get an outstanding result, add more wax then buff it off with a Ubeaut Sawnsdown mop fitted to a grinder. But the finish must be very dry and hard before waxing, as the heat generated in this buffing process can cause problems

[tonzeyd]

Sparingly is exactly that, a very tiny amount.

In order for you to get a decent shine most of the excess will be buffed off, if not it'll leave unsightly wax smears across your entire project.

Before you apply the wax i'd highly suggest trialing on a largish piece of scrap, make sure you're warmed up and don't have any previous shoulder injuries.

Pressure/speed doesn't really matter if you're doing by hand, if you're machine buffing you'll need to be careful about heat

Adding multiple layers of wax is a personal preference (and will power), depending on the quality of your wax it'll affect the appearance of your finish, more layers generally creates a softer looking piece.

Waxing isn't for everyone as not everyone enjoys the process or the look or durability of wax. I've used it in the past, but these days prefer using a water based clear coat mostly due to the speed of application

[Mnb]

Thanks guys.

So the buffing is to make sure there is a thin, even layer of wax by spreading it around and removing excess?
Presumably buffing for too long will remove enough wax that the shine is lost.
At some point does the wax get hard or does it stay as it is?

Do you know why a single layer creates shine but multiple layers don't increase the shine?

[tonzeyd]

If youre buffing by hand your arm will probably fall off before you remove all the wax.

Depends on your definition of hard, wax will harden but won't form a shell like varnish does, this is also its advantage as wood movement won't crack the finish.

Wax doesn't really add shine, it adds depth and warmth to your project, as you generally use it in combination with another finish eg varnish, shellac etc.

In a nutshell shine is the amount of light that bounces off a surface, the more layers you add the less light will bounce off/is absorbed. eg a clean mirror will bounce majority of light that hits it, the more layers you add the more diffused the light bouncing off it will become. Also shine is highly dependent on how smooth your surface is

[Mnb]

O.k. I think I get you at a basic level.

Obviously some things are going to be more reflective than others. The smoother the surface is (a good reflective one anyway) then the more the light will bounce off in the same direction rather than scatter and it will be shiny. Which is why rubbing out works I guess.

I don't know how much is the smooth aspect and how much is the reflective ability of things like metal - you can get metals really shiny even if they're thick - but I know it doesn't really matter for what I'm doing.

I can see that adding more layers of something that absorbs light will increase the absorption.

I think the wax may have added shine to my first table because it wasn't a very smooth finish. When I tried a test on the second table it didn't seem to make much difference. perhaps because I did a better job and it's smoother.