finishing tallowood slab ????

[gpigeon]

I have a large (1900x1300x75thk)odd shaped t/wood slab that I wish to make into a table. The table would be located on an outside covered deck, no sun but occasional rain drift/spray.
My queries are:
1. What tool to clean up but retain the natural edges.
2. There are a couple of large (say 150x80) odd shaped holes right through the slab (old termite holes). I was thinking of "routering" out a 25 deep recess and gluing in a t/wood piece and then re-thicknessing under a mobile mill. Thoughts on this process?
3. What product to fill in faults/cracks/dozy areas prior to final finishing?
4. What product for final finish. Was thinking of the 2 pack clear Estapol or similar.
Any thoughts/comments?

[Rod Gilbert]

I have a large (1900x1300x75thk)odd shaped t/wood slab that I wish to make into a table. The table would be located on an outside covered deck, no sun but occasional rain drift/spray.
My queries are:
1. What tool to clean up but retain the natural edges.
An angle grinder with a flap disk does a great job of cleaning up natural edges and for blending/softening in a sharp cut edge to natural.
2. There are a couple of large (say 150x80) odd shaped holes right through the slab (old termite holes). I was thinking of "routering" out a 25 deep recess and gluing in a t/wood piece and then re-thicknessing under a mobile mill. Thoughts on this process?
Sounds like an ok idea.
3. What product to fill in faults/cracks/dozy areas prior to final finishing?
Epoxy is the way to go you can colour/tint it add other textured stuff like coffee grounds.
4. What product for final finish. Was thinking of the 2 pack clear Estapol or similar.
Any thoughts/comments?
2 pak is a good serviceable finish but for me a Tallow top especially if not in full weather I would go with an oil or no finish at all eventually going silver with time Tallow has its own natural oils that do a good job with it being a very durable timber which is why it was traditionally used for fence posts and yards.

Regards Rod.

[LGS]

If you want a natural oil to finish the slab in the way you suggest, try https://au.search.yahoo.com/search?ei=UTF-8&fr=crmas&p=osmo
If the table will be "under cover, you might try Organoil hard Burnishing oil, or one of their outdoor protective oils.

Regards,

Rob.

[gpigeon]

Thank you gents for the replies.....
I have resurfaced the slab under the saw and now reduced to about 50mm thk. and also tidied up the natural edges. Looks good. I have decided not to fill the large faults, but to leave them as a feature. There are also some "dozey" areas (150 x 25mm) and worm holes say up to 8mm dia. that need attention and that is why I was thinking of using a 2 pak product. Lets say Estapol 7008. Can I use this to pour into the large voids. Thoughts on this?? Unfortunately it is high gloss which I don't really want.
There is another similar but satin product.....Duothane 2 pack by Erethane Coatings. Has anybody used this?

[Xanthorrhoeas]

I have limited experience of the two-pack products, but I suspect that they would not behave well on your "dozey" (do you mean soft?) areas and worm holes. All those finishes tend to stay soft underneath for too long and the surface wrinkles up when thick because the surface skin pulls on the slower-setting/drying under layers. My go-to filler is Epox-E-Glue from BoteCote Pacific (on the Gold coast somewhere so not too far for you but can prob. order online). It is a great paste-like two-part epoxy that you can colour with spirit stains or dry powders/sawdust to get the colour and effect that you like. It doesn't sag and can be finished over with the Duothane or similar easily. Over-fill and sand back to smooth.

[gpigeon]

your "dozey" (do you mean soft?) areas and worm holes. All those finishes tend to stay soft underneath for too long and the surface wrinkles up when thick because the surface skin pulls on the slower-setting/drying under layers.

"Dozey".....yes, soft half rotted areas! I was thinking that a runny 2 pack product would soak through/ impregnate these areas and stabilize them. Whereas, a no sag epoxy will not soak through porous areas.

As to a 2 pack product staying soft on the inside....I would have thought that a 2 pack epoxy type product would harden right through unlike a one pack that relies on evaporation to cure.

I think I will run a couple of trials and see what happens.

[Arron]

Actually Botecote used to sell a product called TPDRA which was supposed to penetrate soft rotted areas and stabilise them. Then you could epoxy over, or maybe other finishes could be applied instead I don’t remember. It worked pretty well.

I have also seen timber stabilisation products for sale in Bunnings - I have no experience with them however.