Finish suggestions/Wisdom

[Slapfest]

A guy dropped off some chunks of Banksia for me (cheers Jarrod),
IT's not a timber I've worked with before.
It was so roughly sawn, I couldnt make out much,
but once I got a small peice and cut it open, I was amazed.
No doubt you are all familiar, I was not at all.
However, has anyone any tips for finishing?
I say that because I have tried to see , very roughly, if the grain will 'pop"
without any real success (not that this grain needs it, really),
and even just shellac seems to homogenise some of the grain's visual effect and individual colour tones are a bit lost .
I dont know if these rough pics will show , but has anyone had more success with a particular finish, or technique?
( apart from clear lacquer of some sort)
pic on left is roughly hand planed (thats all) ,
on the right is planed, sanded and a few coats of shellac . . (ignore the black down the end, )
I realise this is not the einstein of tests, but I was just looking for a rougn indication that I was going in the right direction, . . but I'm not, really.
The heavy ray-like figure is like a silky ouk , but different again.
This is pretty basic, I realise, but if anyone has some thoughts or advice?
thank you
421777421776

[LGS]

G'day,
I have a favourite method for finishing hard, very highly figured timbers as most people would already be aware. Organoil Hard burnishing Oil. There's a method involved in getting the best result using this and it is available at https://www.damnfinefurniture.net/
You really get a feel for the three dimensions of the grain using this. It gives you a very sleek shine as well.

Barring this, I would probably use Tung Oil, or Wattyl Scandinavian oil, both of which can be burnished if desired.

Regards,

Rob

[q9]

I once watched a video where a guy showed how to use 2 different stains to highlight the grain. I'd never thought much of staining, but that demonstration converted my thinking. Wish I could remember what he said to do!! Pretty sure it is simple, like wipe over your darker stain, then quickly rub off the excess, then wipe over the lighter colour. Or the opposite procedure...It was on a VHS borrowed from the library, so unfortunately no youtube link I know about.

Might be worth an experiment.

[Greg_stewy]

on another forum, there was an example of doing this...
process
Red & Black quilted maple dye job - by bibb @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community (http://lumberjocks.com/bibb/blog/6017)

example peice of work:
elixir - by bibb @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/70025)

if you look at turners, they will do this a bit.

[Slapfest]

on another forum, there was an example of doing this...
process
Red & Black quilted maple dye job - by bibb @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community (http://lumberjocks.com/bibb/blog/6017)

example peice of work:
elixir - by bibb @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/70025)

if you look at turners, they will do this a bit.

Yes, I have used this technique myself, many times before
it's simple and has always been very effective, I've fouund
But this time, it really didnt make a lot of difference.
I will try and get the pictures up this time .

The left pic is just roughly hand planed , the right is post shellac.
The shellac piece actually had some dark red/brown wiped on the left hand side (about 1/4 of the piece)
and the right hand side the same, but with black. And then sanded.
The black did stay on a couple of spots, but that unavoidable on that piece..
I CAN see red and darker highlights in those areas , but its negligable, really.
So that was surprising, and was why I thought I would ask you guys.