Can Wipe on poly be micromeshed?

[Fumbler]

I have given a small box a final coat with wipe on poly but I didn't want to lay on too thick for fear of getting runs down the side of the box. I have noticed I have small wipe/stroke marks in the surface. I don't want to sand and redo, does anyone know if you can use micromeshed pads with a dash of water to help finish the surface?

or should I just try ever so delicately to give one more coat?

im nervous as it's almost done yet I don't want to balls it up (as I am sometimes prone to do, whilst looking for perfection)

if so so how long do I need the finish to cure before micro-meshing?

all help appreciated.

[rob streeper]

I've used Micromesh products for near three decades now and I'd say that yes, PU can handle it because I've use MM products for exactly that purpose. I'd leave it cure for a couple of weeks if you can or at least a week minimum.

[Fumbler]

I've used Micromesh products for near three decades now and I'd say that yes, PU can handle it because I've use MM products for exactly that purpose. I'd leave it cure for a couple of weeks if you can or at least a week minimum.

To be sure we're talking about the same product, this the stuff I was referring to, is it one and the same that you use?

417226

[rob streeper]

Those are the pad form of the products, a type that has only been available for a few years, but yes they are the same cushioned abrasive technology. I typically use the original format fabric backed sheets that come in the same range of grit specifications. They also make, or used to make, belts and wheels.

[Simplicity]

Also use a drop or two but no more of washing up liquid in the water.
Helps the paper(pads) move easier.

Cheers Matt



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rob streeper]

Be careful to not apply too much pressure as well, the latex binder will separate from the backing if you do. Gentle and cool.

[homey]

Hi Fumbler,

+1 for using micromesh for finishing. I have the colour-coded pads but also use the random orbital disc type from The Sandpaper Man.

Two things I've found. One is to go through the grits without skipping many as the finer grits (12,000) only remove the tiniest of amounts. Second is that I read (perhaps on the manufacturer's website) that it important not to apply much pressure as the grit then is pushed back into the backing pad and doesn't do its job properly. Rob is spot on with the comment about heat causing the backer to separate.

While I use Micromesh on poly, mostly I use it on Hard Shellac after a couple of weeks.

Brian

[Fumbler]

Thanks all for the comments. I will wait for a week or 2 to fully cure them have another look. I didn't use a sanding sealer and the grain is showing but that's fine as I like the effect it produces. Whilst I'm waiting I might do some test prices to see which gets me the best result and use this box as the standard. Finishing is not really my forte but I'm getting there.