Neighbours landscaping has removed supporting soil from tall fence posts

[barrysumpter]

The neighbours landscaping has removed the support soil from tall fence posts.

The fence is about 8 to 10 feed high.
Agreed with previous neighbours about the height to give them more privacy from our second story windows.

The sold the house to the next owners.
Who landscaped the back yard ruthlessly and build on.

They sold it.
Then they sold it again.

The current neighbours landscaped even further and spent an incredible amount of money on pools and decks and cooking areas etc.

Now the fence has been leaning their direction for about 6 months

We finally approached them and it was obvious they weren't going to do anything until we mentioned it.

We had moved some pot plants away from the fence and our soil has washed away considerably.
And we can see the cemented post bottoms have been completely exposed and the cement broken away.

I haven't been invited over to see the damage on their side.

But they've brought over two contractor to quote.

The first, they tell me, was very expensive.
But he seemed to know what he was talking about.

The second just left after a very dark inspection.

Telling us we would have to clear everything away on our side so he can work.
Saying he could push the post back from their side but the post would snap.

I can see the one post bottom is about a foot off the ground.
So there has been considerable soil removal.

my fear is that the neighbours are going to get absolutely reamed on price.
my other fear is that its not going to be a permanent solution.

I just feel horrible, for them, about the whole thing.


I have zero claim to knowledge of structural engineering.

my solution would be to
prop the existing post(s) up properly/plum.
cement in 2 post(s) to support them.
... two new post for each original post
... one to support the original weight from underneath.
... one to support the original height from their side

I would insist the new posts be 1/3 of their height cemented into the ground.

I have NOT been asked by the neighbors to comment.

[Gabriel]

Given its a fence - shared space and cost (or are they accepting responsibility?) Maybe you could get a quote from a previous or trusted trade as to at the very least put your mind at ease?

Or keep getting quotes til you find a trade you and your neighbour feels comfortable with. I know this sounds time consuming but it's a problem that obviously isn't sitting well with you and a band-aid solution wont be acceptable

[Simplicity]

Pm me
And I will give you our business details( hand man business plus lots of fencing [emoji41])
Also I Can give you my opinion
But, please I'm not after more work have plenty at present
We are located in Glen Waverley , but mum still lives in glen iris .

Cheers Matt

[dai sensei]

Your idea of extra posts is on the right track, as it would probably take 2 posts to support the extra loading from the additional height, but I would still want a retaining wall on their side and backfilled to support your side's fill (and the fence) to avoid additional erosion. Sorry not a cheap solution but that is what I would be recommending as a structural engineer.

[KBs PensNmore]

I think the council/shire should be involved, as by the sound of what you're saying, improvements/earthworks were done illegally, as the council/shire would not have allowed the fence to be unsupported, by not having a retaining wall. If you get real heavy rains, the soil will be washed away, possibly exposing the house foundations. Who's going to be responsible if that happens???
If a retaining wall was to be built, it needs a qualified contractor to do the job, if it's over a certain height. Also it would require a deep drainage system installed to allow excess water to run away.
If the neighbors get reamed on the price, it's not your problem.
These are my thoughts only.
Kryn

[barrysumpter]

Thanks heaps gents for the quick replies.

Hi Gabriel,
I did mention to the neighbours about 10 months ago that fence repairs are shared.

That was long before I saw the actual damage from their landscaping.
So we're pretty convinced we won't be sharing the cost.

And again, I haven't actually seen the damage from their side.
So it cold be the quotes are for far more than a couple posts cemented around an original post.

My previous and trusted trades are from airTasker with me right there discussing exactly what to do.
And sometimes stumbling onto a real professional using airTasker.

Which may be the real issue.
i.e. Me not having the paying clients last say/OK in what and how to do it. LOL
And being the only one to answer for it if it gets mucked up.
Answering for it immediately with the good lady wife.
Answering for it in the long run when it starts coming undone.

Will see if I can approach the neighbours to lend a hand in getting quotes.

The first quote, my lady tells me now, was from the builder who was responsible for the landscaping in the first place.
I'll suggest to them that he might be approached to use his insurance to fix it or complete the job properly without further expense.

thanks again

[barrysumpter]

Hi Matt,

What a gracious offer.

Glad to hear you're busy.

I'll approach the neighbours and get back to you.

[Simplicity]

Hi Matt,

What a gracious offer.

Glad to hear you're busy.

I'll approach the neighbours and get back to you.

Not a problem

[barrysumpter]

Hi Neil,

Thanks for the reply.

We certainly appreciate your comments as a structural engineer.

I was just thinking we have a bricked car port right there.
And I was just mentioning to the good lady that I haven't checked to see if the carport posts are starting to lean.
Or if the brickwork has started to sink.

Well thats me trying to be a good neighbour and not put pressure on anyone.
Hoping they would do the right thing and fix it themselves.

Frack! We have a huge tree on the property line there as well.
And the brick work has been really coming up around it lately.

No. Wait. Getting super paranoid now. LOL

thanks again

[barrysumpter]

Hi KB,

Thanks for the reply.

Yeah, ok.
Definitely, going to ask to see from their side.

The soil has certainly been washed away.
We have a garage wall there on the property line as well.

They mentioned having to install extensive rain water drainage system.
Built in 1888.
they've also replaced the post under the house.

so a huge huge reno.

[ian]

Hi Barry

from what you have written I'm concluding that the dividing fence was in good condition prior to the succession of neighbours doing work on their side of the fence.
and that the fence is still in good condition apart from its lack of proper support.

whilst I appreciate that you want to be a good neighbour, the problem is entirely your neighbour's responsibility.
If a retaining wall is required, it needs to be constructed on the neighbour's side of the boundary.
if additional, longer fence posts are required, they need to be installed on the neighbour's side of the boundary.
if recent excavation work is the cause of the problem, then that work was not completed to a satisfactory standard.
etc.

I strongly suggest you stay out of the quote getting / work specifying part of it. Becoming involved makes the problem partly yours and down the track (after the current owners have flipped the property) imposes an obligation on you to pay for any necessary rectifications.

now as a good neighbour, you might permit your neighbours to build a retaining wall that straddles the common boundary, but the cost of the wall is the neighbour's responsibility. But as a good neighbour, you might undertake to reinstate the garden on your side of the boundary at your cost.

If your garage is damaged, or at risk of damage, you have limited rights to enter your neighbour's property and "make good". But those rights are limited and you would want to get legal advise before exercising them.

[rwbuild]

Cutting to the chase, dont stuff around, your carport/garage is a disaster waiting to happen. Contact your local council, get the building inspector to do an inspection, go from there. The inspector should by rights issue a rectification order on the owners. Failing the council doing what they are supposed to do, contact a structural engineer to inspect. Being Mr Nice Guy will not fix the problem correctly. Also the landscape contractors are in breach of their license for doing this in the first instance.I know all this sounds harsh but are you prepared to have the carport/garage collapse on you when your in there? and then you will really find out the true cost of being Mr Nice Guy.
I can give you all the technical details relating to your problem but you do really need to talk to council in the first instance then a structural engineer.

[barrysumpter]

Thanks again gents.

The council really does NOT want to get involved.
They say "talk to your neighbour and try to sort it out yourselves"
give the neighbour a week to respond. which they've done.
give them a month to sort it out. its been about a week.
if not sorted deliver a letter of intent.
then contact the council to escalate to deliberation.
or something like that

[rwbuild]

Sounds like council is touchy because they have over-looked it when they did the other inspections. Regardless of time frames, get the ball rolling with a structural engineer. From your earlier comments re storm water problem, your land is now higher than theirs so any run-off from yours will exasperate the problem and you will be undermining your own structures.

[woodPixel]

I had a property in Queanbeyan NSW on a hill with a fabulous view.

The drop down was only 50cm, but it was a 40m boundary.

The fence was just a regular wooden fence and the very first builders simply used sleepers anchored with rods. Over the great many years they rotted and the embankment was eroding.

At the time, as we were the "upper" it was our responsibility to ensure "our" soil didn't wash down onto the neighbours.

While the fence was split 50/50, we were responsible for the wall.

The council advised this only had to satisfy the requirement of "stopping our soil" and not be some gold-plated masterpiece of even be in character/synch with their landscaping. It was entirely OK for it to be literally the cheapest method in existence. Naturally if the neighbour wanted better, they pay the difference...

What makes this curious is your neighbours doing considerable work, yet not considering this? It would be interesting to see what legal minds might think.... Does the work of a neighbour that disrupts previously good foundations make it their responsibility to repair? Perhaps they will say it's a gradual degradation and nothing to do with them!

If if it were me, I'd arrange a quote for the very very very cheapest repair of the wall.

Sounds like you you have a considerable headache.

[ian]

WP, there is a vast difference between building a wall to contain fill -- which from your description is what you had in Queanbeyan -- and Barry's situation.

In Barry's case, the neighbours have excavated their yard and created the problem. The solution doesn't have to be gold plated but it must be "maintenance free". A segmented block retaining wall would probably be sufficient -- but I'm making this comment without seeing the site so it is a comment, not a recommendation.

[barrysumpter]

Thanks again gents.

Last night, the neighbour came over to tell us the workman would be over on sunday morning to get stated.
And he would need access to our side and he needed the area clear of the considerable number of pot plants and chimes.
I wasn't happy with having to clear for him when I feel he really doesn't need access to our side.
They asked if I'd be here. I agreed to make sure I was.
Then they told me they wouldn't be around.
Which later kinda started working on my nerves. i.e. paranoia.

Woke this morning really needing to get it sorted properly.
Finally went over with the wife and the neighbour was quite congenial.

They are still sorting some reno works.
And acknowledged they have spent a small fortune.
But really it looks fantastic.

And they have already installed the rain water drainage along our shared fence line.
Whewh!

There are 4 fence posts that will be fixed.

They also confirmed the builder told them, at the time of the earth works removal, they did not need a permit or inspection.
They insisted and got a permit and the after inspection passed.
So as far as I can tell they are and have been doing all the right things.

I have to say there is a 3 to 4 foot of exposed dirt right next to our shared tree.
It looks terrible.
I was shocked with how bad it looked.
At this point I did ask to see the paperwork on the permit and passed inspection.
On review, I should have said they might want to have another look at paperwork to confirm for themselves.
Perhaps they allow for different inspection parameters around a tree.

We've arranged for Sunday morning at 9am for the fencing contractor to start digging from either side.
I really don't feel he needs to dig from our side but we have agreed to allow him access.

He claims to be able to spend 4 hours to complete the work.
I have my doubts.
I won't be doing anything until he actually rocks up.

I did mention I wasn't feeling him capable on the day he came over.
As he was a bit short when I queried his need to dig from our side.
Him saying if he pushed too hard on post that it would snap in half is the reason.
But also mentioned I understand him getting up at 6am having a full day then quoting at 7:30pm in the dark.
Then trying to convince a non-paying neighbour what he is suggesting is correct.
They presented his professional brochure and confirmed they were quite happy with him doing the job.

They told me his plan was to install new posts about a foot to the left of each current post.
I then mentioned my suggestion about one short post beneath each post to support the weight of the original post.
And another keeping the fence up right.

Again, as far as I can tell they are and have been doing all the right things.

[ian]

Hi Barry

there are things in your post that, for me, don't add up

They also confirmed the builder told them, at the time of the earth works removal, they did not need a permit or inspection.
They insisted and got a permit and the after inspection passed.
So as far as I can tell they are and have been doing all the right things.

I have to say there is a 3 to 4 foot of exposed dirt right next to our shared tree.
It looks terrible.
I was shocked with how bad it looked.
At this point I did ask to see the paperwork on the permit and passed inspection.
On review, I should have said they might want to have another look at paperwork to confirm for themselves.
Perhaps they allow for different inspection parameters around a tree.without knowing what your local council requires, it's quite possible that an excavation limited to less than 1.2 m doesn't need a permit.
However, I would be surprised if your local Tree Preservation Order doesn't say something about interfering with the roots of trees and the soil supporting those roots.

If the situation looks terrible from their side -- that is not your worry. Your "worry" is adequate support for the soil so it doesn't erode into the neighbour's property and that your garage / carport is properly supported. And remember that any structure needs to be on the neighbour's side of the boundary.


We've arranged for Sunday morning at 9am for the fencing contractor to start digging from either side.
I really don't feel he needs to dig from our side but we have agreed to allow him access.

He claims to be able to spend 4 hours to complete the work.
I have my doubts.
I won't be doing anything until he actually rocks up.

They told me his plan was to install new posts about a foot to the left of each current post. this should support the fence, but what about retaining the soil? and support for your garage?


Again, as far as I can tell they are and have been doing all the right things.if the neighbour's had been doing "all the right things" you wouldn't have this problem.

[barrysumpter]

something like
400mm and above needs a retaining wall.
Retaining wall needs to be 400mm away from other structures and fence line.
otherwise a permit.

1m height ok. above needs a permit.

something weird that the height must equal the distance(?)

Im thinking the fence and its plinth will be considered the retaining wall.
Im also thinking, We just need to make sure the distance from the bottom of the plinth to the top of the soil is zero.

the terrible part is the massive height of the exposed roots.
I find it hard to believe it passed inspection.

i'll have another conversation once the fence has been fixed regarding the soil erosion.

[Handyjack]

What surprises me is that a contractor is coming not only on a Sunday but at 9am.
While there is nothing to stop them coming, I am not sure if they can use power tools before 10.

Hope it all works out.

[rwbuild]

Any chance of a few photos, 2+2 isn't equaling 4 in my interpretation of the situation. It also depends a lot on the type of soil and sub soil type.
Your carport/garage on the boundary line is still a concern as there will be settlement and fretting subsidence under your slab as at the moment their is nothing for the compaction load forces of the building mass to compress against hence degradation of the load bearing material under the structure.A structural engineer would best to clarify this.

[Sturdee]

I am not sure if they can use power tools before 10.



From the EPA website the prohibited times for noise from power tools etc are :

Monday to Friday: before 7 am and after 8 pm &

Weekends and public holidays: before 9 am and after 8 pm.

Peter.

[barrysumpter]

thanks gents.

Yes its the noise.
He wanted to start a 8am.
I mentioned the noise is only allowed after 9am on sunday.
I'm pretty sure they think having a full conversations and non-powered tools banging about right outside the sleeping bedroom window is OK at any time.

the soil is pretty much clay.
With loose soil for plants on top.

[ian]

something like
400mm and above needs a retaining wall.
Retaining wall needs to be 400mm away from other structures and fence line.

1m height ok. above needs a permit.

something weird that the height must equal the distance(?)
this doesn't add up for me.

If a retaining wall is required -- and the excavation you've described does require a retaining wall -- and that wall needs to be a minimum of 400mm clear of the boundary -- and if the retaining wall is higher, the clearance to the boundary must be equal to the wall's height) then the fence should be being supported by the material behind the retaining wall, not on new longer posts.

I'm interpreting the "fix" you are describing as you having consented to the retaining wall being located on the property boundary, thus forming part of the "boundary fence"



the terrible part is the massive height of the exposed roots.
I find it hard to believe it passed inspection.
what are your local council rules around tree preservation?
does what you have described comply?

talk to an arborist. Is the tree at risk of dying?

[artme]

I can add nothing in the way of engineering suggestions but, from what you have written, the legal implications could be quite substantial if further damage occurs..

Is there a body in Victoria like the Queensland administrative Appeals Tribunal that can help deal with these cases?That may be another port of call.

It seems to me that full responsibility lies with the neighbours who should have had a proper building inspection carried out before embarking on any work and such
inspection should have resulted in proper advice about engineering solutions for the fence and any need for retaining walls.

The legal bun fight that WILL ( not could ) erupt if disaster occurs will be lengthy and will most probably be sorted out through insurance claims and counter claims.

You, however, don't want to wait for that disaster to happen so you might need to get some advice from a solicitor and have them write a letter to your neighbours
should all other avenues of approach fail.

Best of luck with it.

[Tools]

t -- and that wall needs to be a minimum of 400mm clear of the boundary -- and if the retaining wall is higher, the clearance to the boundary must be equal to the wall's height)

Where did you get that from?

Tools

[ian]

Where did you get that from?post #19 from Barry

400mm and above needs a retaining wall.

Retaining wall needs to be 400mm away from other structures and fence line.
otherwise a permit.

1m height ok. above needs a permit.

something weird that the height must equal the distance(?)I've interpreted Barry's last sentence to mean that the distance between the retaining wall and any structure or boundary should be equal to the height of the wall. So a 600 mm high wall would need to be 600 mm clear of the fence line.

Note Barry has posted his recollection of the wording. He hasn't posted the actual requirements or a link to those requirements, so at this stage what Barry has posted is all we have to go on.

[Tools]

Note Barry has posted his recollection of the wording. He hasn't posted the actual requirements or a link to those requirements, so at this stage what Barry has posted is all we have to go on.


Yes, but has the wording come from an authoritative document or from the mouth of an "expert" at a dinner party?

Tools

[ian]

Perhaps you need to ask Barry this

[barrysumpter]

Thanks again gents.

Fence builder rocked up at 9am as requested.
He came over and had a quick word on what going to happen.

He was much nicer but still a bit loud and abrupt.
I just matched his tone and volume.

Of course there was the 10mins rant on why the fence wasn't constructed very well.
I mentioned the fence was fine for years and years until they started excavating.


He was very very happy with us moving all the pot plants (30) and chimes (150) and huge bluestone blocks (10) and huge blue grey volcanic rocks (15) away from the fence.

I thought he needed it clear to dig.
But it turned out he just needed them out of the way to push the fence upright.

If anything got caught under the fence while he was leveraging it up it would "snap the post in half".

Now I understand.
And he did very little digging from our side.

2 lengths of plinths were seriously deteriorated.
I asked him if he would be happy to replace them.
And we agreed if I would go get them he would put them up.

$6.25 each so no big deal.

Wanted to use some synch ties to wrap around my car port posts.
Would have to remove and probably replace some paling.
As removing them would snap them in half.
And would have to source the extra tall palings myself as ~2M palings are the norm.
Nixed that straight away.
As I didn't want it possibly damaging or start a slow deterioration of my structure.
Nor did I want to spend time chasing down the extra tall palings.

H mentioned once everything was cleared he could push and hold the fence upright with his body strength.

He ended up wedging a couple of 2x4s against their house to keep it upright.
Screwed into the fence to keep them from falling in the wind.

Told me I just needed a cordless drill to remove the screws after the cement on the post cured.
Coupladays.

The fence is up straight now.

He's going to use an auger(?) to dig down 1METER (not 1 foot)

And he is going to place 4 new posts each to the left of the original posts.
1 meter deep.
Cutting out notches to fit the railings.

Which i thought would be hard to keep the weight distributed.
i.e. one notch could be 5mm higher supporting all the weight of the other notches, etc.


And will NOT be cementing the old post back in either.
I must have had a funny look to that and he just said "Trust me" three times.
Doesn't matter what profession you're in.
You could be the pope and say "trust me" and it wouldn't sound right. LOL

Anyway, my lady comes up and tells me there is sparks coming from the fence now.
Noise cancelling headphones on.
I went down and could see they had used the cement reenforcing bar mesh as a climbing plants trellis.
welded(?) onto metal (star?) fence posts that were concreted into the ground.
He made short order removing these with a grinder.

[barrysumpter]

As usual information overload from the web.
Between appreciated advice and Boroondara fencing laws/guidelines website 20 step questionnaire and second hand memory from neighbours about what the council rep said about their permit.

Just enough to get me into trouble if I try to quote or sound like I know what I'm talking about. LOL

I can hear the motorised auger(?) now sounding like a motorbike on a dirt track.
auger. Stop. Dig. bang. auger. stop dig bang lol
Wish I could see what's he doing.
shoulda been away like the neighbours.

[Gabriel]

I'm glad it sounds like it's being fixed, both properly and to your satisfaction with minimal inconvenience (though a lot of pots and chimes)

[barrysumpter]

414956 414946 414949 414955 414958 414948 414957

Yep.

6.5 hours later.
And he's still out there.
Certainly getting value for money

Had a quick look at the post holes.
Freakin' deep!


Pick of the car is to prove to the fence guy I can fit a 2x 3.6m plinth with just a bit hanging out the back.

[woodPixel]

Pictures man! Pictures!

[barrysumpter]

LOL
Just what I was thinking.
Taking longer than usual to upload.

Don't know why.
Some days I can upload the exact pics in the exact order.

Others days like today its a nightmare.

[woodPixel]

Is that it!???

I was expecting landslides, gaping chasms riven apart by earthquakes or some sort of cliff-like ravine!!!

Its all rather anti-climactic :(

[barrysumpter]

414968 414966 414967


LOL

Too much Hollywood dude!
No headliner stars or fantasy story lines or 500 million dollar budgets here.

Just real life.

If it would make you feel better I can always lie and post the we uncovered the bones of Jimmy Hoffa right next to time traveling alien technology.

LOL


The auger was huge.
The work area was really small.
He was buggered.
Another hour.
Owners will sort out the 2x4 support removals.
I'll sort out the plinth installation.
Those notches were tight.
Nice to see a professional at work delivering professional work.

[barrysumpter]

Well, my good lady wife does NOT want to pursue the retaining wall from their side.
She wants me to hide it from view on our side.
Grrrrrr.

The fence repair guy mentioned building planter shelfs off the ground.
Which got her thinking.

I'm hoping some one might have a suggestion on how I could sort it out myself.

First the retention wall from our side.
I'm pretty sure the plinth would NOT be suitable.
certainly not at $6.25 per 3.6lm for the 25 x 150 size

I was reading about H5? TP buried in the ground.
Some say it will last 10 years.
Others say 1 year depending on how close to the beach you live.

blast as an after thought just now.
Why don't I match their depth by digging out the soil on our side and build a retaining wall against our garden bed brickwork?

[ian]

Barry,
one should always TRY to be guided by our good lady wives, but sometimes ...

If you build the required retaining wall on your side of the boundary, the wall and any associated drainage becomes your problem and perhaps more importantly your cost.
You will need to keep the clearances to the boundary that your neighbour was supposed to keep -- that is unless you submit a building or development application and get Council approval to build on the boundary. Don't know about you, but giving good money to Council and waiting 6 months for possible approval, is, for me, a very poor use of money that could be spent in the or garden or on a holiday. You don't get a refund if Council says NO.

To fix from your side would involve excavating to the same level as next door has excavated. The fence is now well into the sky, so you would need to underpin the whole fence with some sort of structure. Assuming you don't want to seek Council approval, your retaining wall would be a minimum of about 500 mm back from the boundary, you would need to arrange drainage between the wall and the fence line, I could go on, but by now you should have the general idea.

and your tree would likely have to come out.


In my humble opinion -- just don't go there.

Get the neighbours to fix the level difference on their side of the boundary.

[barrysumpter]

Hi Ian,
Thanks for the continued support.
Much appreciated.

DuWhaaaaaat! even more money to the council? you mean their advice is not free?
And wait 6 months. ForGetAboutIIIIt!

My good lady would cut me down before she let me cut the tree down.
She's eyeing me up and down now calculating the number of chops it would take.
LOL

I hinted to the neighbour if he had a family friend who was a structural/landscape engineer to ask them to have a quick squint.
I'd be happy to have a short chat with him on the down low and take his advice.

The lady is taking full advantage and has given the OK to spend THE (not OUR) money on the retaining wall and some split level pot plant shelves of our favourite hardwood spotted gum along the 10 meters against the fence.

$200 - $300 ish.

43cm from that brick rise to the fence.
for the retaining wall

Not sure what we could do about more drainage.
As its maybe 3 inches between the rain warter gutter on the car port roof and the fence.
And its all brickwork




+ another 11cm for the brick width.
for the pot plant shelves.

[ian]

Barry, all I can add is DON'T MAKE THE RETAINING WALL YOUR PROBLEM.

Politely ask the neighbours when the retaining structure will be completed so that you can back fill your side of the fence.
Depending on the response, you may wish to get Council involved relatively quickly.

[barrysumpter]

Acknowledged.
Thanks again.

[barrysumpter]

http://www.hyne.com.au/documents/Feature%20Documents/TQ_08_Timber-Garden-Walls_final.pdf
That PDF is for Queensland (2014) and NOT Victoria.

https://www.boroondara.vic.gov.au/about-council/news-and-media/guides/construct-retaining-wall


Got the measuring tape out.

All less than 400mm difference in soil levels.
Excluding about 600mm to the tree which is filled with roots.

So can't ask/won't be asking the neighbours to build a retaining wall.

if we want to or not to plant on our side:
We'll need to keep our soil from getting washed away from our side.

The lady has given the go ahead on me figuring out what to do.
The plan from her is to keep me busy (and out of her hair).
So won't be paying someone else to do it.

[ian]

Barry,
your neighbours have EXCAVATED their property to the extent that the soil on your side of the common boundary (and part of your garage slab?) is no longer properly supported. I believe the term is "removed the existing natural support" to the soil on your side of the fence.
Now the depth of excavation may not be as deep as meets your council's definition of a retaining wall, but you are under no OBLIGATION to prevent soil and other material washing into your neighbour's yard because it is their actions which are "responsible".

Now I understand that you want to be a good co-operative neighbour, so I encourage you to work with your neighbour to find a solution that stops your soil washing into their property. Not knowing relative costs, the solutions that come to mind for the low height you have quoted are:
1. treated pine fence palings supported by the fence posts and intermediate star pickets.
2. H5 treated pine 4x2s supported by the fence posts and intermediate star pickets.
3. one or two rows of besser blocks filled with soil. If you used two rows they would just be stacked on each other.
4. a brick wall around 5 courses high.

all of which could be installed on the boundary, and in the case of 1 and 2 would look pretty ordinary on the neighbour's side.


I think you need to keep in mind that a future owner of the neighbouring property might insist on you removing the tree your good lady so admires because it's roots are exposed on their side of the boundary.
This is something you need to resolve now in a way that DOES NOT involve you accepting that future problems with the tree or its roots are your "responsibility".

[barrysumpter]

Just spent the week waxing the kitchen cupboards doors.
about 20 to 30 hours cleaning the build up out of the corners.
Nice and shinny now.
LOL What a waste of miserable time. Felt like I was being tortured. LOL
So glad to have finished yesterday morning and spent the rest of the day planning the retaining wall.

I'm just happy to out of the kitchen onto something else.


opted for
200 x 50 H4 treated pine sleepers in 2mtr lengths.
(expecting occasional watering of pot plants run off.
There is a 30 cm/1ft gap between the fence and the rain water guttering
the fence is taller than the rain water guttering by 1ft to 2 ft
so expect very little water exposure
have taken the precaution of purchasing bondall water based bitumen waterproofing membrane for the treated pine sleepers)

have gone with whites outdoor 450 x 50mm Retain-iT Joint Post
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-outdoor-450-x-50mm-retain-it-joint-post_p1100440
250 in the ground and 200 for the sleepers

planning on covering the steel posts with the bitumen as well unless otherwise advised.
Stupid expensive I know.
Still juggling whether to just pond them into the hard clay and rely upon the 900mm deep posts from the fence repair for support.

Some of the plinth has been eaten away
I've already purchased the plinth replacement timber for ~$12.
I'll bitumen one side to match the black of the plinth and fence on their side.
No big deal.

$60 for 4lt of the bitumen. 1.4m2 per lt. frak!
The bondall rep told me to mix 1 part bitumen and 1 part water to use and an undercoat.
And then apply two more coats of the bitumen.

A lot of work. But still better than waxing kitchen cupboards.
I swear I remember an antique repair place quoting $3000 to clean the cupboard doors.
It might have been $1000 and I tell my lady it $3000 to get 3 times the credit. LOL
AND thats with me bringing them the doors. LOL

Not supposed to apply the bitumen < 10° nor above 80% humidity.
Rep said you can but the drying and curing times will be much slower.

Had a fair go a digging but the hands started cramping so taking the rest of the day to plan.

[barrysumpter]

Bit of positive progress today.

Replaced the rotted plinth.

The Good Lady caught me painting the bitumen.
Asked me to go ahead and apply it to our side as well.

She's the boss. It'll keep me busy longer.
Too easy.

Getting warmed up for a bit more digging tomorrow.
Gonna try and just hammer the end and joining metal posts to see how secure they are.
Don't wanna dig 250mm/10" x 5 and cement them in unless I have to.