bob129
22nd July 2016, 11:58 AM
Hey Guys,
Been on these forums alot recently as I'm currently restoring a 100 yr old Kauri Pine Mantelpiece for our Living Room. I stripped all the different layers of paint off using Paint Stripper, Pressure House, Wire brush, steel wool, sanding, etc. Had to take about 6 layers off.
Once that was done it was looking pretty good, so after reading advice on here, I sanded it thru the grades upto 400 grit. Then applied a thin coat of Ubeaut Sanding Sealer. Next I sanded it lightly with 1200 grit once the sealer was dry (waited about an hr to be sure).
Then came the staining...I used Wattyl Craftsmen Traditional Stain in Teak.
I found it went on a bit darker than I expected, so panicked and probably rubbed it a bit hard with a rag. I initially applied by rag, then rubbed off with dry rag, but changed my technique to brush on and rag off once I got to the more detailed sections.
As you can see in the pics, despite all my preparation, the stain hasn't been as consistent as I had hoped. The detailed bit of the corbels, imo, look pretty ugly, the stain didn't seem to stain evenly here, or deeply. Also at the base, you'll see lighter edges in the corners where timber meet. I tried brushing more stain in there, but ended up just covering the surrounding wood too, making it all a shade darker, but still not getting the lighter bits darker, which was my aim :no:
Thankfully the top came out pretty well, but when your looking at the fireplace, it's the front you'll be looking at, not the top, and I'm not very happy with how that's turned out. Any ideas on how to improve it?
Lastly, I was told if using a water-based Poly sealer to wait atleast 72hrs staining to ensure the stain had properly evaporated from the timber. I plan on using Minwax Water-based Helmsman Spar Urethane in a Clear Satin as I was told it was the best protection from heat, as being water based it allows the timber to expand and contract with heat changes, which I assume would happen alot using on a fireplace mantel. I'm hoping you guys would agree that this is the best way to protect the timber from heat? (Otherwise I can always take the can back to Masters if something more suitable is recommended?)
Hopefully someone can help, as I'm quite annoyed at the end result. I really wanted to do this 100 yr old piece justice, and it appears I've fallen at the final hurdle. :C
388171388172388173388174388175
Been on these forums alot recently as I'm currently restoring a 100 yr old Kauri Pine Mantelpiece for our Living Room. I stripped all the different layers of paint off using Paint Stripper, Pressure House, Wire brush, steel wool, sanding, etc. Had to take about 6 layers off.
Once that was done it was looking pretty good, so after reading advice on here, I sanded it thru the grades upto 400 grit. Then applied a thin coat of Ubeaut Sanding Sealer. Next I sanded it lightly with 1200 grit once the sealer was dry (waited about an hr to be sure).
Then came the staining...I used Wattyl Craftsmen Traditional Stain in Teak.
I found it went on a bit darker than I expected, so panicked and probably rubbed it a bit hard with a rag. I initially applied by rag, then rubbed off with dry rag, but changed my technique to brush on and rag off once I got to the more detailed sections.
As you can see in the pics, despite all my preparation, the stain hasn't been as consistent as I had hoped. The detailed bit of the corbels, imo, look pretty ugly, the stain didn't seem to stain evenly here, or deeply. Also at the base, you'll see lighter edges in the corners where timber meet. I tried brushing more stain in there, but ended up just covering the surrounding wood too, making it all a shade darker, but still not getting the lighter bits darker, which was my aim :no:
Thankfully the top came out pretty well, but when your looking at the fireplace, it's the front you'll be looking at, not the top, and I'm not very happy with how that's turned out. Any ideas on how to improve it?
Lastly, I was told if using a water-based Poly sealer to wait atleast 72hrs staining to ensure the stain had properly evaporated from the timber. I plan on using Minwax Water-based Helmsman Spar Urethane in a Clear Satin as I was told it was the best protection from heat, as being water based it allows the timber to expand and contract with heat changes, which I assume would happen alot using on a fireplace mantel. I'm hoping you guys would agree that this is the best way to protect the timber from heat? (Otherwise I can always take the can back to Masters if something more suitable is recommended?)
Hopefully someone can help, as I'm quite annoyed at the end result. I really wanted to do this 100 yr old piece justice, and it appears I've fallen at the final hurdle. :C
388171388172388173388174388175