What Buffing & Polish methods/tools you use for tough Finishes?

[Tegmark]

I have tried a typical automotive rotary buffer with wool pad & typical automotive compounds, this seems only usable on flat & slight curved areas, it will cut into edges so quick. The way it spins is not ideal. I think the swans mop on a drill is much better. for cutting with a compound. But looking into a D/A polisher with foam pads for both cut & polish as they might not cut into the edges as the pad is pretty flat. Some areas require hand rubbing which takes for ever to get wet sanding marks out & to a good finish.

Stationary buffer wheels would be impractical on a desk or large item. Are there any other better tools?

thanks

[Arron]

For lacquer, I use:
Optionally, 1500 w&d, if there are obvious flaws.
Meguiars medium and then fine or very fine.
I do it by hand. Can't stand using a power tool of any kind as they are too harsh - and too risky. It doesn't take long by hand.

If you are finding doing it by hand takes too long then could quality of compound be an issue?

Meguiars is just an auto cut/polish but so called 'professional product', good compounds and no silicon.

[Tegmark]

For lacquer, I use:
Optionally, 1500 w&d, if there are obvious flaws.
Meguiars medium and then fine or very fine.
I do it by hand. Can't stand using a power tool of any kind as they are too harsh - and too risky. It doesn't take long by hand.

If you are finding doing it by hand takes too long then could quality of compound be an issue?

Meguiars is just an auto cut/polish but so called 'professional product', good compounds and no silicon.

Some finishes without machine buffing the sanding marks would take way too long by hand. Even with a harsher compound. ATM I'm using Meguias M105.
On oil based PolyU it took me about 4-6 hard hand polishes to get the wool buff marks out, just ready for the next polish step.

Besides the wool mop on a drill, I think the only alternative in these cases is a D/A polisher. It's gently, flat foam pad but doesn't require any elbow grease.

[Arron]

Sorry, I didn't realise you were talking about polyurethane.

A few years ago, when I used polyurethane, I did some experiments on buffing. It took a lot of work and the results were inconsistent at best. I got the feeling the surface remained too soft and too 'crosslinked' (sorry, don't know a better way to describe it) to support post-application treatments. Perhaps not all polyurethane products - but the ones I used were.

To me this makes sense, polyurethane is sold into the DIY market via hardware stores. Most buyers know how to brush on two coats, and that's about as far as they get. There is no need to make the product applicable to post-application treatments because very few buyers will even know what they are.

I usually use pre-cat lacquer for clear finishing and get no such problems. These products are formulated especially for quick and easy buffing. Shellac is pretty good too.

cheers
Arron

[Tegmark]

Sorry, I didn't realise you were talking about polyurethane.

A few years ago, when I used polyurethane, I did some experiments on buffing. It took a lot of work and the results were inconsistent at best. I got the feeling the surface remained too soft and too 'crosslinked' (sorry, don't know a better way to describe it) to support post-application treatments. Perhaps not all polyurethane products - but the ones I used were.

To me this makes sense, polyurethane is sold into the DIY market via hardware stores. Most buyers know how to brush on two coats, and that's about as far as they get. There is no need to make the product applicable to post-application treatments because very few buyers will even know what they are.

I usually use pre-cat lacquer for clear finishing and get no such problems. These products are formulated especially for quick and easy buffing. Shellac is pretty good too.

cheers
Arron

Thanks Arron. That's the experience I had with oil based PolyU. Will soon try PolyU in 2pack & if it's the same I think ill move onto pre cat lacquer or some auto 2 pack lacquer. Although I hear the auto industry uses a PolyU type of clear too.

[ubeaut]

Sorry.... Blatant advertising and no time for a more detailed explanation.

Swansdown Mop(s) (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/sdmops.htm) and EEE-Ultra Shine (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm)

Cheers - Neil :U

[Tegmark]

Sorry.... Blatant advertising and no time for a more detailed explanation.

Swansdown Mop(s) (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/sdmops.htm) and EEE-Ultra Shine (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm)

Cheers - Neil :U

I have used those two on PolyU. Pretty simple to use & seems to work without too much problems, but I like to go extra & use a fine polish. So far only done the Polishing by hand & PolyU tends to show up visual flaws when polishing.

[Chesand]

Sorry.... Blatant advertising and no time for a more detailed explanation.

Swansdown Mop(s) (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/sdmops.htm) and EEE-Ultra Shine (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm)

Cheers - Neil :U

I have also used these on a couple of bookshelf units. Did the shelves and inside of the uprights before gluing up.
Allowed the PU to harden for 4 or 5 days then used EEE with 0000 steel wool and buffed with the swansdown mop.