Maintaining hard shellac

[Kuffy]

Im currently completing some odds n ends which have been gathering dust.

I have some boxes that I constructed months ago and began finishing with Hard Shellac. They have about 3 thin coats of hard shellac which was thinned to be about 60% metho and 40% hard shellac. It isn't anywhere close to being done and needs several more coats. With normal shellac I wouldn't even question it and just continue applying layers. But with hard shellac it crosslinks with the air making it resist heat and alcohol etc. Do I just continue as if it is normal shellac or do I need to treat it as a crosslinked surface finish needing to be scuff sanded back? Metho does eat/melt the shellac quite easily, so im guessing it would be normal to just continue applying layers

[Xanthorrhoeas]

I can see that you have not had any responses so I'll throw my hat in even though I have not had to continue/touch up anything I've finished with Hard Shellac, so I have no experience to give you. Have you sought help from Neil at UBeaut?

If it still "melts" or is removable with metho it suggests that you can add more layers without rubbing back. Even if it didn't melt with metho I suspect it would be a good idea to rub it over with fine wet and dry to help get a good finish.

David

[Kuffy]

Thanks David. To be honest, I thought it was only a slim chance that there is someone out there that both, has the answer and is willing to contribute to online forums. I'm thinking I will just strip the outside surfaces and french polish with normal shellac. I really like that technique and it seems fairly forgiving. The boxes are on the back burner again while I tackle a new project that came in this arvo.

[ian]

The boxes are on the back burner again while I tackle a new project that came in this arvo.a Red Gum table by any chance?

[Kuffy]

a Red Gum table by any chance?

Nope, its a Hall Table 1050x300x850. going to be made from Myrtle shipped to Adelaide.

The couple came over and had a look at the redgum. He was very very happy, she didn't like the busy looking grain and darkish colour :frustrated:!!!!!!!

They couldn't agree on anything. The top is split down the middle with about ~8mm gap. Joined with something like straight splines or dovetail keys. She wanted straight splines, he wanted dovetail keys. She wanted them to blend in and not be noticable, he wanted big bold contrasting dovetail keys. decision: redgum dovetail keys, big bold and beautiful.

We decided on Myrtle because "I had enough in the shop to get the job done". Only need about 5lm. I just pulled it all out of storage and I have about 10lm of 6 x 1 1/2. All bowed, twisted, warped, cupped, live edge want and wane, cracks:upset:

So now I will have to goto the merchants for 5lm of 6 x 1/2 myrtle. I'm really looking forward to being quoted 50bux/lm:bigcry:

Anyone got any 6 1/2 salmon colour myrtle on this side of town?

[ubeaut]

Sorry missed this one.

My first thought would be a bit of a scuff back with some 600 or 800 grit to clean the surface of anything else that may have settled on it and to give the polish a little something to key to, then apply the new coats.

Haven't come across this problem before so it's not really something I have thought about.

In theory, there's no reason why if the surface is clean that the new coat(s) can't be applied straight on top but you would have to make sure it was definitely clean, even to the point of a wipe down with a bit of turpentine on a clean rag, followed by a wipe down metho on a clean rag between those two solvents you should well and truly remove almost anything and everything.

Cheers - Neil :D