View Full Version : Oil finish? Stairs WIP
DaveTTC
4th February 2016, 09:10 AM
G'day all,
What oil to use?
I have been working on this stair case off and on over the last few months
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160203/720822d890cad488830a2ea0eb34e286.jpg
My SIL had another relative atart on it but you can see the difference between the two jobs. They did the lower section
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160203/6d6e370c3dd3ef557d1e91faed2f4d0a.jpg
Time is of the essence and now she just wants to coat it.
I was thinking maybe danish oil?
Any thoughts?
Possibly 6 to 12 months down the track she may get me back to do the lower section again. I want something that wont impede me sanding the paint from the lower section
I will try and do some retrospective pics over time.
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Sturdee
4th February 2016, 12:25 PM
I was thinking maybe danish oil?
Any thoughts?
Dave,
For my turning I use "Antique Oil Finish" made by Minwax rather then Danish oil. I find I need very few coats ( 2 or 3 ) to get the same finish as Danish oil, still wipe on with a cloth and it's less then $ 30 per litre available from some Masters stores.
Although it penetrates you can sand it easily (at least on the lathe) but I don't know of your sanding needs.
This may be worthwhile for you.
Peter.
DaveTTC
4th February 2016, 01:14 PM
Thanks Peter. That may be the go then
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
DaveTTC
4th February 2016, 03:36 PM
Dave,
For my turning I use "Antique Oil Finish" made by Minwax rather then Danish oil. I find I need very few coats ( 2 or 3 ) to get the same finish as Danish oil, still wipe on with a cloth and it's less then $ 30 per litre available from some Masters stores.
Although it penetrates you can sand it easily (at least on the lathe) but I don't know of your sanding needs.
This may be worthwhile for you.
Peter.
Apparently this is discontinued
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
FenceFurniture
4th February 2016, 05:29 PM
Danish would be ok for all but the treads - not sure if it will wear very well under foot. If the treads could handle a slight yellow tint then you could use Minwax Decking Oil natural for the treads. Used it on the deck at the back door (and shed) and it wears pretty well (unless that other bloke shows up again). Home Hardware stocks it, and Masters prolly do to.
Actually I doubt there'd be a huge difference in the effect of Danish verses the decking oil - a slightly different colour shift, but still warmer.
Edit: Oh, and if you use Danish don't use Organoil brand - too orange and the timber tends to nib up more. Rustins is the go (Trend Timbers sell it among others).
Sturdee
4th February 2016, 06:16 PM
Apparently this is discontinued
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Dave I presume that Gregory Hills is the closest Masters store to where you are working, if so they are still having stock as per this link. (//www.masters.com.au/masters/search/masters_search_results.jsp?bmForm=search&bmFormID=l9KlHXI%2F152ab201f91&bmUID=l9KlHXJ&bmIsForm=true&bmPrevTemplate=%2FStores%2FNSW-Gregory-Hills-7617.jsp&bmText=searchInput&searchInput=&bmEditable=searchterm&bmHidden=searchterm&searchterm=antique+oil+finish&bmFields=bmText%2CbmEditable%2CbmPrevTemplate%2CbmForm%2CbmIsForm%2CbmUID%2CbmHidden%2CbmFormID&bmHash=4b2a707ab76b1357c5e0ddae062a988259815192)
Peter.
DaveTTC
4th February 2016, 06:19 PM
It took me to a vic store?
Not sure which store i went to. Somewhere near seven hills
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Sturdee
4th February 2016, 06:26 PM
I changed the store to Gregory Hills, NSW which is the nearest store to Helensburgh, where I presume you are, rather then my local store.
Masters, Gregory Hills
2 Rodeo Road, Gregory Hills
Phone: 02 4648 7300
Thu: 6:00 am - 9:00 pm
Fri: 6:00 am - 9:00 pm
27.1 km away
Try changing the store location.
Peter.
DaveTTC
4th February 2016, 06:28 PM
Trying now
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
DaveTTC
4th February 2016, 06:32 PM
It seems to be in stock there
Is 45 km away. Have to see if im going tht way in the next day or so
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Xanthorrhoeas
4th February 2016, 08:45 PM
Hi Dave,
The staircase looks antique - is it? If it is antique the staircase would have originally been finished with shellac. Usually there will be some remnant shellac on the timber and it will respond well to applying new shellac. You can brush it on with a fine lacquer brush and get a great finish that is easy to apply and appropriate for the age of the stair.
IMHO Oil is not an appropriate finish for an old staircase.
Bulk brown button shellac is available by the kilo from Shines in NSW (0418 883 551) just dissolve it in metho (B**n**gs is OK) and paint it on. It dries quickly and looks good.
PM me if you want further instructions
Regards
David
DaveTTC
4th February 2016, 09:09 PM
More than happy for you to out the instructions up on the thread David. Then it will be there for others to see too.
I will hat to my SIL and aee if she is happy to go the shellac way.
How would shellac go with having to strip some of the stairs back in the future? You can see this section was very poorly done
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160204/40e07007deaeb6c1ef8e3289a5898b19.jpg
She just wants a quick finish so she can rent it out for a year or so till she moves back.
Yes it is the original stair case.
Here is one section from upstairs before I stripped it back
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160204/60e9e3bd78af8a9fa5ba826dfa255168.jpg
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Simplicity
4th February 2016, 09:21 PM
Dave if your SIL is going to rent it
Shellac the stairs for now
It's easer to reverse than oil or other products
And easy to touch up for now
Xanthorrhoeas
5th February 2016, 09:24 AM
Dave, As Simplicity says, shellac is the easiest to reverse or to clean off if you want to fix the poor stripping later - just use metho!
With the buttons I crush them (in cloth with a hammer) then tip them into a 4 litre container of metho. I tip out about half a litre first so it doesn't overflow - you can add the metho back later. I will have to look up my little book to get the exact instructions but from memory you put in about 250 gm crushed. It doesn't matter if you put too much in as it just stays in the bottom. Agitate the bottle every few hours until it all dissolves (faster if finely crushed). That makes your stock solution. Dilute the stock solution by 50:50 metho for a job like yours (much more for French polishing). The stock solution will have all sorts of rubbish in it (it is a beetle exudate after all, though not beetle poo). Filter through something fine - I use a stainless steel fine seive for the coarse stock solution, but you would need cheesecloth if you were going to French Polish.
UBeaut have some Hard Shellac sold as a liquid. It cross-links with time and becomes water and heat resistant. You would not use that for anywhere you wanted to strip later but it would be worth asking the man himself it it would be good for fully stripped stairs that you were not going to change in the future.
rwbuild
5th February 2016, 04:26 PM
After our conversation last night and now seeing the photos as well as possible more work in the future, I would agree about using shellac
Xanthorrhoeas
5th February 2016, 05:55 PM
As luck would have it my little book of instructions has done a disappearing act - however, I think that my memory is OK (never too sure these days!) and the info above will work. I find that shellac is a delightfully uncritical product to use.
If I were finishing fine carving or detailed features of table legs etc. I would use a fine lacquer brush of natural hair (Squirrel or Badger) and a good brand like Leonhardy. They can be obtained from The Gold Leaf factory The Gold leaf Factory International | Manufacturer of Fine Gold leaf | Art Supplies | Artists Materials (http://www.goldleaf.com.au) and probably other places. I also see that Shines now have a (basic) web site shines.com.au (http://shines.com.au/) and that they advertise that they sell a lot of different shellacs and brushes too. (I have no financial or other affiliation with either company, just a customer).
However, I do not believe that you need a special brush for the work that you are going to do, I have only included those details in case you, or others, need the contacts.
We have cedar doors in our house and when we had the place painted a few years ago the painters offered to "freshen up" the doors with my shellac at no extra charge. They used good quality paint brushes to shellac on the doors, so they should be OK for the stair work that you have to do.
DaveTTC
5th February 2016, 05:56 PM
I hope to get some painting done tonight and shellac tomorrow
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
DaveTTC
5th February 2016, 06:39 PM
Would you use the shellac on the treads too or shukd i look at tung oil or decking oil etc?
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Simplicity
5th February 2016, 06:56 PM
Nothing on the treads for now
Oil no way if your planning more work down the track
What about just carpet sections stabled on for now on the treads
DaveTTC
5th February 2016, 06:57 PM
No carpet and no staples. Took forever pulling the staples and taxks thatbwere there
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Simplicity
5th February 2016, 07:27 PM
What about a stair runner then
DaveTTC
5th February 2016, 07:29 PM
Dont think she will go for it
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Simplicity
5th February 2016, 07:43 PM
There very traditional and later you can turn the things can't rember there name to tie the carpet down
DaveTTC
5th February 2016, 08:29 PM
After much deliberation and toing and froing I have finally started a mix of shellac.
From bunnings.
It says 250 gm to 1 L
Letting it sit overnight and see what happens. It is flakes
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
rwbuild
5th February 2016, 08:40 PM
There very traditional and later you can turn the things can't rember there name to tie the carpet down
Stair rods
FAQ's — Stairrods Australia - Manufacturers of Luxury Carpet Accessories (http://www.stairrods.com.au/installation-information/)
pickles420
6th February 2016, 12:44 PM
Im a timber floor sander by trade and tnere is a new australian standard for all timber stair cases treads have to be coated in an anti slip protection
Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk
DaveTTC
6th February 2016, 12:45 PM
Im a timber floor sander by trade and tnere is a new australian standard for all timber stair cases treads have to be coated in an anti slip protection
Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk
Yes i wondered about that. Whatare the options
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
pickles420
6th February 2016, 12:53 PM
Well i use the bona intense for sealer
Bona mega for 2nd coat
Light rubback with a fine grit sand paper to eliminate grain raise fill all tack and nail holes then the bona hd anti slip goes on job finished
Sent from my SM-T310 using Tapatalk
Xanthorrhoeas
6th February 2016, 02:56 PM
Traditionally the stairs were usually covered by a runner - a long strip of carpet that ran down the middle only. The edges were usually either shellac or Black Japan finished. With time many of the carpet runners wore out and the bare timber treads were sealed with shellac. That just seals the timber, it doesn't make it slippery. If you are worried about slipperyness you can just mix some grit into the shellac (for the treads only). On boats it is common to mix some grit or sand into the paint or other finish (often a marine finishing oil for boats) as or after you apply the final coat. Because shellac dries so fast it would have to be mixed in beforehand rather than sprinkled on later as can be done for slow-drying finishes. Marine shops will sell suitable grit/sand and so might many specialist paint shops. Usually, an old stair tread has plenty of wear on it so the seal with shellac may just raise the grain a bit to prevent slip - or else if you wipe the bare wood treads over with water to raise the grain slightly, let it dry then shellac. It is worth a try as the shellac is so reversible it doesn't lock you in for the long-term like all the modern finishes which would have to be painfully sanded off if you want to change later..
DaveTTC
6th February 2016, 03:16 PM
Part of the stair priject is to paint the room at the top of the stairs
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/b384d324c13c970d310c7419deb907fb.jpg
Some was old work and some is new work from an extention towards the rear of the house
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/6d096fbd9e474c1e8d1aa8cb01b2123c.jpg
I have gapped (as in filled the gaps) to some of the new molding and boards and partial undercoat
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/7d075644717f21306f6e9aadedac6431.jpg
But a close inspection will reveal a lot of gapping yet to be done.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/0b91674ce7d40266e93f925c73de5ea8.jpg
It will be all white when its done. No seriously it will be all white. So pics will be hard to show up any detail once painted. Might need a refresher from oldgreybeard as to how to make it atand out.
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Xanthorrhoeas
6th February 2016, 07:04 PM
What a lovely attic room. We had two like that in our house in Hobart. The lining boards were Baltic Pine and had originally either been sealed with shellac or left bare timber. One of the two rooms was still lovely aged timber but someone had painted half the other room white. Such a shame. Some of our lining boards were warped and twisted like that too, though other areas were perfect. Our attic rooms had the chimneys coming through the middle of them - also covered in lining boards. Very quaint - especially as one of them opened onto a third floor balcony with a castellated stone parapet.
Its good to see you are doing such a good job with this house. That stair decoration is very pretty, perhaps Gothic revival as was common in the Picturesque Style common in the 1890's. Is that the date of the house?
DaveTTC
6th February 2016, 07:06 PM
Yes I believe the house dates around then. There is a balcony here too
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/be3f395c2fa57f6e646af72f535f14a6.jpg
Warch out for the wires just outside rhe balcony though
Here is a front view
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/81c62d3b1c1f4b82bc770f75c0ea1c56.jpg
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
DaveTTC
7th February 2016, 11:52 AM
Not the stairs but the painting upstairs.
Likely installed green and then shrunk these boards have been filled with what I presume is linseed putty.
With harsh cross lighting it is easier to see the 'v' joints are a lot deeper than the 'v' grooves in the centre if the board. Also the filking is very uneven
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/c84113e7ab74448f566624bc309b159e.jpg
A close up shows an example of a bad spot. Some areas in the ceiling it was bulging down and had to be pulled out and refilled
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/c8dc77af0ba95d84a34b736dfbc50dba.jpg
With use of 'no more gaps' i will try and even it out so it looks more acceptable. Somewhat like i have done on the vertical boards above.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/c72d48c6dfdf7064bb08fbdb44a60276.jpg
Hope to get all the prep finished and two coats today.
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
DaveTTC
8th February 2016, 08:10 AM
Not as good as i would have liked but two coats
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/7cb2c91de684b410a4fe989c4765d185.jpg
The room is looking finished
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/4e6ca60d213acae5bbf1ce1e0cb777e6.jpg
Glad to see it virtually done
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/b0d914392ecd1960e1f6dd4974d292b9.jpg
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
DaveTTC
8th February 2016, 04:50 PM
Up stairs is looking 'all white' now. So bak to the main attraction.
Instructions were just to oil or what have you 'as is' but .... I couldn't help myself. It just had to be fixed at least a little bit as you see the lower section before and after
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160208/89da57f3cf5a2f50dc8a02a9da6733a2.jpg
And the top rail at the landing. Forst coat being applied. There isjust one panel still in the raw
371053
Yes I went the shellac
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
DaveTTC
9th February 2016, 09:03 AM
Well im not claimong its a liece of furniture or that im anygood at this shellac game but tried to tidy up that first rail section a bit and a few coars later it looks something like this
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160208/c7b596775eebdb3bda52ab889a5dcfef.jpg
Perhaps i need a few lessons
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Pittwater Pete
9th February 2016, 07:20 PM
Looking good mate.
DaveTTC
9th February 2016, 07:23 PM
Cleaning up post at top of stairs
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160209/13d5bc8a18bee8c1aae0c203686ca1ce.jpg
This one needs more work
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160209/ac484b2385d4f17e4f5817f0a888645e.jpg
I think i could use one of fencefurniture's fancy float things. They'd be good on paint wouldn't they?
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
DaveTTC
9th February 2016, 08:02 PM
Ok cleanes up a bit more now
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160209/031536aa7ad4697098409c653ce6bea8.jpg
And a close up
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160209/d3c132d5f638dd65be56e5eecdb2c905.jpg
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
FenceFurniture
9th February 2016, 08:43 PM
They'd be food on laont wouldn't they?Ah, say what??
DaveTTC
9th February 2016, 08:46 PM
Ah, say what??
Ooopps
Good on paint
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
FenceFurniture
9th February 2016, 09:19 PM
Maybe a bit harsh on the softwood though.
DaveTTC
9th February 2016, 09:19 PM
Oh.
What would you suggest
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
FenceFurniture
9th February 2016, 09:23 PM
Maybe a file?
DaveTTC
9th February 2016, 09:24 PM
Whats a good way to clean a file when it gets clogged. I did end up using a file but its all gummed up with paint now
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
FenceFurniture
9th February 2016, 09:28 PM
Brass brush (solid brass bristle, not the stupid brass plated steel, and definitely NOT a card file).
Simplicity
9th February 2016, 09:57 PM
Sorry
But why not a card file
If you mean what I thinkhttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/02/09/1d9721785446b32ab3e29d054592d0b3.jpg
FenceFurniture
9th February 2016, 10:03 PM
Best way to prematurely blunt a file Matt.
Edit: because the bristles do not fit into the teeth - the are wider in diameter than the gap between the teeth, so that means two things: the don't get into the gap properly to clean (which is the whole point) and because of this they therefore only go across the top of the teeth, therefore blunt them.
Simplicity
9th February 2016, 10:21 PM
But a tooth being an upside down triangle
What is going to fit in the valley to dislodge material
When it's stuck down there
FenceFurniture
9th February 2016, 11:22 PM
I guess it depends on how widespread the gunk is. I've used a compass point (north is usually best :D) to get out aluminium. However, best not to get it in there in the first place - for "sticky" metals like alum, chalking the file works really well, and maybe that's worth a go with paint. It stops the gullets filling with the sticky stuff, and also prevents the stuff sticking to the steel.
DaveTTC
12th February 2016, 10:41 PM
Big thanks to David for his initial reply with shellac and rh feneral concensus that agreed
Ive had lmoat no exleriwnce with rhe stuff and while ixohld have done a bettr job am generally pleased with rhe outcome. Pics to follow
Continuing my trip home. Hope to see th family about 2 or 3 but wxpect they'll all be asleep
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
rwbuild
12th February 2016, 11:25 PM
Dave, stay safe in traveling, eyes on road, not phone, there's always tomorrow for that, you and your family are more important than whats being posted, but if you did it during a rest break, that's ok and my apologies. Take care mate.
DaveTTC
13th February 2016, 10:35 AM
Made it safe and sound. Few kids especially want my attention. Will try and sort out some pics when I have a moment
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
Xanthorrhoeas
13th February 2016, 01:33 PM
Hi Dave,
In the past I have cleaned turned furniture legs like those balusters using a heat gun and a shaped paint scraper - with a turned handle, round shaft and end that is triangular at one end and rounded or concave at the other. That usually leaves a few speckles, but because the paint was applied over the original shellac some 0000 steel wool and metho dissolves the shellac under the paint spots and it cleans off pretty easily.
Your shellac work looks good to me. The tonal variation is because the timber is old and just adds to the patina and beauty of the woodwork IMHO. Most finishes would reveal the same variation in the wood.
David
DaveTTC
13th February 2016, 02:47 PM
Here is a view from the top
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/6a0124c1789b96373c434f2bd342aa6a.jpg
A look at the last two posts that had to be cleaned
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/e6be5d5de266ef3d478b26b375d87739.jpg
A close up
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/36b18a3d12ccc834edee0ec611e4e096.jpg
Looking down the stairs
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/b2134622385001893a58a68b3a01b0eb.jpg
And at the treads
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/b5ebc0be2b3aaeaab57c84d4dc8ccf78.jpg
From the ground floor
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/98112cb3fdcc2dfcdb5dad25f61844a1.jpg
And thisnis the paneling that still had paint residue on it
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/83d4a8a6fe1b8c50b0311fa757404a0a.jpg
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
rwbuild
13th February 2016, 02:58 PM
Dave, there is much more satisfaction and skill in what you have achieved on these 2 jobs as compared to the mass produced glorified boxes masquerading as houses today, well done :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:
DaveTTC
13th February 2016, 03:06 PM
Hi Dave,
In the past I have cleaned turned furniture legs like those balusters using a heat gun and a shaped paint scraper - with a turned handle, round shaft and end that is triangular at one end and rounded or concave at the other.
Yes i wish I had had my heat gun with me. Wiuld have been good to see how that might have worked.
I have similar scrapers and on old three sided traingle one. The shaped ones i ground to more suit the profile. Cheap steel and did not keep a cery good edge compared to my older one
That usually leaves a few speckles, but because the paint was applied over the original shellac some 0000 steel wool and metho dissolves the shellac under the paint spots and it cleans off pretty easily.
Would have been good to have put this to test on the job. Ive left now ... next time. 😉
Your shellac work looks good to me. The tonal variation is because the timber is old and just adds to the patina and beauty of the woodwork IMHO. Most finishes would reveal the same variation in the wood.
David
Thank you. Now that it is all done and dusted I am quite satisfied
Thank you too Ray. Agreed, much satisfaction from such a job. Would have been nice to have been allowed the time to redo the original section to a higher standard but it covered well considering
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
FenceFurniture
13th February 2016, 07:38 PM
That looks a great job Dave! SIL must be chuffed with the result.