Enamel coated MDF ???

[h_samtani]

This may be a stupid question but I think i have to ask it as google is not taking me anywhere.
Here is the background to the question first.
I have been commissioned to build a couple of beds for the girls.

I have two options
A. Plywood, and then finish it off by lacquer
B. MDF, but then finish it off with paint
I am not going down the path of solid timber as she wants a different look.

The question that i have revolves around the "Enamel coated MDF".

From what i understand this is what is used in some kitchen cabinets. I have also seen toilet seats with that finish in bunnings.
How is this finish achieved is what i am trying to find out.
Is it
1. sealer (i presume this is a must)
2. coat of paint, if so, what type of paint is used and how is it applied, can this be sanded smooth?
3. Is there a top coat, is so, what and how is it applied?

I have a Novaspray HVLP with different tip sizes which i normally use to spray precat sealers and lacquers.
I have never sprayed 2 pack, but this is mostly to do with the fear of the chemicals and the lack of good safety materials.
My spray booth is a 5 sided box with a dust extractor fan underneath pushing all the air outside, and always use a half face mask when spraying.

Any help will be most appreciated.

Thanks
Harender369432

[chambezio]

When I was working in kitchen cabinets, we used to prepare the MDF screw it together dry the disassemble it and start the painting process. Yes a good sanding sealer that can build a surface as smooth as you like. Then we used a single pack precatalised lacquer. Since I have been retired I have made a few jobs using MDF and used normal house Turps based enamel. It worked very well. The only draw back is that the enamel is slower to flash off than the Lacquer.
The fished job is quite good.
Oh PS, why disassemble......its a whole lot easier to spray a flat panel on the level than trying to spray inside of a box. Your design may have to be altered to be able to use the disassembly approach

[h_samtani]

[ I have made a few jobs using MDF and used normal house Turps based enamel. It worked very well. The only draw back is that the enamel is slower to flash off than the Lacquer.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, is that (turp based enamel) something that i can get from bunnings,

To get a smooth surface,
i was planning to give it about 2-3 coats of the sanding sealer, and then just hand sand it using the sanding sponges (or will it be better off sanding it using the orbital sander and 400 grit paper?). I was planning to follow this up with painting it using a roller, but can easily spray it on.

The final stage was going to involve sanding the paint to a smooth surface, this is the area that is unexplored, I was not sure if this can be done or am i better off using a polyurethane coat (brushed or rolled_ on top of it to get a smooth texture?

[Master Splinter]

Try acrylic lacquer as sold in car stores for smash repairs. It is designed for spraying, it dries in minutes, and it sands easily. You can also use the other car paint products (primer-surfacers and spray putties) to hide MDF end 'grain'.

Although it won't be as tough as a proper two pack automotive isocyanate finish, it's pretty close.

[h_samtani]

just to confirm, sand, seal, paint (enamel paint) and then coat with acrylic lacquer.

I normally get my stains and lacquers from BC Coatings, and they have this, is it the same product,

http://www.bccoatings.com.au/phocadownload/tds/BC500_1K_ACRYLIC_LACQUER_TDS_00035.pdf

And extremely grateful for your comments and suggestions,

[chambezio]

Harking back to what I suggested.....the sanding sealer is where all your sanding is done. You only need to use wet/dry paper, maybe 320# or finer if you wish.When you start to apply the top coats of enamel you should not have to sand them smooth as they will be smooth out of the gun. (sanding a top coat is not advisable because it is too soft and will lead to one hell of a mess)
If you were going to go the roll on and brush method, the same would apply. Get the sanding sealer smooth then top coat with roller and use a brush to "lay off" the textured surface left by the roller. The brush is dragged through the rolled paint to make it smooth.
One thing about roller and brush, you don't have to rush, just take your time to get the finished surface you are after.

If you are spraying you will use more paint and you have to deal with the clouds of overspray and the ever present problem of runs

[Master Splinter]

Sand, seal (with acrylic primer/surfacer) and spray with acrylic lacquer (you name the colour, it's available). You can further sand the acrylic lacquer using freecut or wet&dry as well as buffing it for a mirror finish.

Don't use it over enamel, as the solvents in lacquer can soften the enamel and cause wrinkling.

[h_samtani]

Brilliant, this helps a lot, appreciate the assistance from both of you,

now for some trying out on scrap pieces and away we go, swmbo has given me a time period of 4 weeks to complete this, if not, I am to expect a bill in the mail for the beds that she has ordered through a store, and knowing her, she will do it,

so this head start on how to finish will come in very handy, thanks a ton
regards
Harender

[soundman]

I'de be going the MDF.

As for the preparation..... I've done a bit with MDF.

For almsot anything opaque I use wattyl Superatch .... it is my go to undercoat and there is not much it wont stick to ...... being a single pack epoxy base it holds out well and you can put almost anything over it.

It's available in black or grey ...... it is thinners bassed and most people spray it ..... but with a fast hand it can be brushed.

as for the top coats ..... you have lots of choices ..... houshold enamel would not be the best.

Quick dry automotive enamel would be good if you are spraying it goes off way faster than turps base and it sets up harder.

I've had very good results woth polyeurathane paving paint ... either berger jet dray or wattyl.
The big advantage with the paving paints is they are very hard wearing ...... thin them a litlle and they spray well.
I have mostly used estipol sanding sealer under paving paint as both are polyeurathane base. ....... but super etch will go under polly just fine.

The big thing with MDF is getting the edges and any cuts choked out ..... if I am painting MDF I will go round the edges with whatever undercoat and a brush ...... then go round a second time while it is still wet ...... paint the main surface .... sand the whole job and do the same again.

A light sand and you are ready for whatever top coat.

Anoter thing that is realy hard wearing is marine polyeurathane enamel ... sounds weird .... but its very resilient.

cheers