distressed timber coffee table repair

[LGW1]

Hi, I've recently purchased this coffee table 2nd hand. It's an Indonesian style with distressed timber. There are three deep gouges in the table which I'd like to patch up. The gouges had some soft material possibly wood rot or previous filling job (not sure as I'm quite new to this). As they are quite deep I'd like to fill them slightly but not level and finish it in a way to be a part of the distressed look the table has.
Does anyone have any suggestions how I could do this? Or if they think another option would be better.
Thanks in advance Lawrie

[LGW1]

Hi, i think I'll just patch them up using some timbermate walnut colour. Any any suggestions how i should finish after applying to get a grainy look rather than just flush (flat) with the table surface?
Another question... As a complete newby, I'm not sure how should i care for the table or even know what finish it has. :doh:
(perhaps this post is more appropriate in the finishing section?)

[TongueTied]

I'm no expert but I don't like using TimberMate on anything larger than a crack. Large fill areas remain softer than the surrounding wood and Teak is hard stuff, so it is eventually going to get damaged or get scraped and come out. Have you considered using epoxy and dyeing it with a black or dark brown dye. It will then just look like old sap but will be hard.

Once completed, a teak table can be simply wiped with a few coasts of Teak Oil. Make sure to wipe off any excess between coats. Most Indonesian furniture is treated that way in the first place at least, all the stuff I have.

[mark david]

Hi Lawrie,I am very familiar with this Indonesian furniture as I deal with it on an almost daily basis.
The level of craftsmanship varies from excellent to unbelievably shoddy.
I have not however found out what they use as a finish,it is probably shellac based.What passes for wood glue over there is another matter,probably spit and sawdust if even used at all.Mostly hand made nails are the norm for construction.

The soft areas you have shown are most likely pith,this is where a small branch has grown out of the timber.
My normal mode of filling that was shown to me by another experienced furniture maker was to use builder's bog Turbo or similar product mixed with Concrete colouring oxides.

The main advantages of this method is it is cheaper than off the shelf wood fillers,can be made to set very fast (literally minutes),sands easily,can be mixed to almost any colour,does not shrink or crack and seems to accept most finishes over the top.

[LGW1]

Tonguetied thanks for your reply. I was thinking epoxy might give a too professional look for the table. Conversely, as it would be my first time, it would probably be the opposite and I'll completely stuff it up!

Mark David thanks for the info, the nails inside the table definately look handmade! :roflmao:
As i doubt I'll be doing many jobs, i thought a small tub of timbermate for under a tenner would be the cheapest option. Or do you think as tonguetied mentioned it would be to soft (but harder than spit and sawdust) for the job?

Also how does one care for a shellac based finish?
Cheers
Lawrie

[fletty]

Hi LGW1,
l was in a similar position a few years ago

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/chinese-multiplication-tables-151496?highlight=Fletty+coffee

I fixed the soft patches with thin shellac, a vacuum cleaner and a hair dryer as in the above thread.
My table was finished with shellac and beeswax but a shellac repair will still let you use any finish.

fletty

[mark david]

Hi Lawrie you could get a 500ml tub of builder's bog turbo for around $ 21 from Bunnings or the smaller Flexipack for around $11.
As it is a 2 pack product it has a very long shelf life.

I think I have used Timbermate or something similar are wasn't impressed.

You can just use a paste beeswax to buff up the Indonesian furniture or a light rub-over with some raw linseed mixed with Turpentine (my other half uses gallons of this stuff) and dispose of any rags soaked in this carefully as it can spontaneously combust.



Tonguetied thanks for your reply. I was thinking epoxy might give a too professional look for the table. Conversely, as it would be my first time, it would probably be the opposite and I'll completely stuff it up!

Mark David thanks for the info, the nails inside the table definately look handmade! :roflmao:
As i doubt I'll be doing many jobs, i thought a small tub of timbermate for under a tenner would be the cheapest option. Or do you think as tonguetied mentioned it would be to soft (but harder than spit and sawdust) for the job?

Also how does one care for a shellac based finish?
Cheers
Lawrie

[ian]

Personally I'm not attracted to the "distressed" look

colouring Builders bog or epoxy needs a range of pigments if you want to get a reasonable colour match and in the end can still look a bit "plastic"

my preference is to use a matching piece of wood
is it possible to cut a sliver from the inside of the table's frame, and use that to patch the long pith holes?

[LGW1]

Wow, thanks all for passing their knowledge on. :2tsup:
Too many choices now!
Fletty, as my gouges aren't terribly deep (maybe 6mm) i don't think the vacuum underneath will create any suction through the good wood.
Ian, great idea. The table already has one patch using the method you suggested. It's quite obvious and I'm guessing my first attempt would stick out like dogs bollocks! Also I'd like to fill the gaps without changing the surrounding area through sanding etc. which Im assuming might be necessary.

Can anyone recommend a decent paste wax which is readily available? I've seen recipes to make it yourself off the web, is it worth a try?
Cheers

[Ari2]

Personally I'm not attracted to the "distressed" look

colouring Builders bog or epoxy needs a range of pigments if you want to get a reasonable colour match and in the end can still look a bit "plastic"

my preference is to use a matching piece of wood
is it possible to cut a sliver from the inside of the table's frame, and use that to patch the long pith holes?

:iagree:

[fletty]

There's a trick I learned through Wheelinround and that is to mix coffee with epoxy. Mix the 2 parts of the epoxy thoroughly first and then add coffee powder. Only stir the coffee in just enough to give a range of tans and browns and then trowel into the gouge. Works a treat.
fletty

[Christos]

I was going to suggest using epoxy with a tint or some sort. The downside to using epoxy in this case is it will give a shiny surface, not exactly a nice blend with the rest of the piece.

After reading what Fletty wrote I would suggest giving that a try.

Just on a side note I have some holes(2 dozen at least) that I need to fill on a couple of pieces so I might give that a go myself.