How to Fix Top of Table I Just Bought?

[SammyWood]

Hi Woodworkers

I just bought a new table for $10 at a garage sale. It is old and colonial style. I think it is blackwood? Its really heavy.
It's super nice but there is a warp in the top and unfortunately someone has tried to sand it down taking all the original finish off that bit.

I put some O'Cedar Oil on but maybe that was the wrong thing? Does anyone know how I can repair the sanded area with the missing finish.

The original finish is semi-gloss and the sanded bits are bare wood?

Could i just use wax? If so what type of wax? Beeswax or Carnauba?

Photos attached.


Thanking you in advance

Sam

[Master Splinter]

Sand back to bare timber all over (top and bottom) and refinish both sides in your preferred varnish/wax/oil/shellac/clear lacquer*. But scrape out whatever the gunk is in those splits and re-fill with a tinted epoxy (black is always a good colour to tint to) first.

If you want a high gloss finish, you're essentially looking at varnish or lacquer; all the rest are more of a satin gloss, but you can get some pretty impressive gloss levels with polishing if you want to go all the way to 1000 grit paper or higher.

If you're looking for a piano gloss finish, that's just lots of varnish/lacquer layers and LOTS of sanding.


*Note that as a finish, O'Cedar is best used to add weight to the garbage bin so it doesn't blow away in a strong wind.

[SammyWood]

Hi Master Splinter

Thanks for the advice. I'll pick out all the white filler and refill with coloured. Then I'll sand the top gently and coat with a new finish.

I want a soft satin finish to match the legs and frame. I think the original may have been some type of old varnish? It didn't dissolve with metho.

I've got a BP water based varnish in satin. Hopefully this will match. My local Bunnings had polyurethanes, shellac, waxes and various oils.

It was hard to work out what kind of finish might match the original or what is a normal finish used??

I understand there are various pros and cons of each finish but it is hard to know what to use?

Sam

[Christos]

Can the table top be removed from the base easily?

If it can it will make it easier to finish the bottom and you could try matching/testing the finish on the bottom of the table top. Just try small areas to begin with.

[P.W.H.]

If you do what Master Splinter said (it's what I'd do, too - sand it back so it looks even all over) then you might want to consider doing both top and bottom side of your tabletop with the same finish.
If you have one finish on one side that is more water permeable than the other side, then changes in humidity will make the table buckle. And that gives you the
opportunity to do some tests on the bottom side first.
The risk is, of course, that some stain might have been used and after sanding it back it will no longer match the legs. Then you'll have to do the legs as well. http://d1r5wj36adg1sk.cloudfront.net/images/smilies/standard/biggrin.gif

[Master Splinter]

To find out what the finish is:

You've already rubbed with metho - so it's not shellac.
Now try with paint solvent - cheap nail varnish remover (acetone) will do in a pinch, but if you have some proper enamel or acrylic enamel thinners handy (if you've ever used them... they are the solvents that'll strip all the oil from your skin in an instant, leaving you with a white looking fingertip... ie not turps).
If it melts/softens rapidly then it could be some form of solvent based finish (essentially some sort of lacquer)
Slow and gluggy response could be a varnish.
And if the solvent doesn't touch it, it's a polyurethane.

If you are looking for a fairly simple and fast film forming finish, Minwax Wipe on Poly (http://www.minwax.com.au/wood-products/interior/clear-protection/minwax-wipe-on-poly#directions) (Home Hardware, Masters) is an option that's easy to apply.

[SammyWood]

Thanks everyone. I waxed the top and bottom of the table. Looks good. All done now!

Sam