Finish on different projects - Expand my experience

[SuperB15]

I have not done a lot of projects but the ones I have done, I have mostly finished with a Satin Cabothane. Mostly over a stain. Once over raw timber. I have always been happy with this in general terms.

I would like to get experience in different finishes.

I have currently one project ready to finish and another one in mind.
1 Draws (pine) under a work bench and timber trim (Tas Oak) to home built saw table top
2 Lazy Susan with a possible inlay on it (plan to use some sort of timber of what I think is pine)

I guess the workshop items would be best in something with a bit of hardness. I do have some Traditional Wax and was thinking about that but after research I am starting to go away from that. However, I don't know what way to go.

The timber I plan to use for the LS is re-cycled from an old table top I picked up some 20 years ago from a furniture manufacturer that was closing down. It has some type of finish on it from when I picked it up - but when you get it back to raw, is is quite light - near white. I originally used some of it on chairs as slats for the seats. I put a polyurathane on the slats but they went quite honey colored within a short time. I would like to retain as much of the lighter colour as possible and not have it go honey coloured. I don't know even know if that is possible.

Must have been a good tree as the 2 pieces I have left are about 400 & 500 wide both solid. Wish I knew what type of timber it is!

Would appreciate some options/recommendations on finishes from you more experienced people.

Thanks

[Enfield Guy]

I use OSMO oil wax finish almost exclusively now. Expensive, but goes a loooong way, think 24+ square metres a litre. Easy to apply. Just keep brushing it out, you want to apply a very thin coat. Resistant to acids, alkalis, alcohol, etc. I highly recommend it.

Where about in Brisbane are you? I could show you products coated with it, and maybe give you a sample.

No affiliation with the product, except that I am a happy customer.

Cheers
Bevan

[SuperB15]

Thanks Bevan
It looks like maybe a type of wipeon Poly. It does not give a distributor for Qld on their web site. Do you feel it holds original timber color well?
I am in sth east - Alex Hills
Harry

[Enfield Guy]

A poly it ain't. Richard Vaughan did a write up in the latest Aust Wood Review of the OSMO product. The distributor is in Melbourne and will post as the product is not a dangerous good. I reckon you end up with just the "wet" look of the timber, remember, all finishes will alter the colour of dry wood.

I'm in Wavell Heights

[Xanthorrhoeas]

There are a zillion finishes out there and each has its adherents and different strengths.

Factors to consider are whether you want a floss, satin or matt finish and will the item will be in the weather or the sun (in which case UV protection is needed) or fully indoors. Do you want a once-off never to be recoated hard finish? Are you happy to re-coat regularly? Hard wearing surfaces like floors have many speciality products from gloss two-packs to Tung oil. They all do the job, but differently.

I started out repairing/restoring Australian antiques and the finishes that have a proven track record (100's of years) include shellac. UBeaut make a white shellac that adds very little colour for something like your Lazy Susan. Their Hard Shellac provides a water resistant and food safe finish. Check their web site (forum sponsor/owner links). You can achieve a satin or gloss finish depending on the number of coats.

Ease of use and ease of clean-up are other considerations for you. When clients did not want shellac or I didn't have the time to French Polish I have used a very clear satin, water clean-up Estapol with success for dining tables and bookshelves in very light coloured Hoop Pine. No discoloration, easy to use and clean up.

[SuperB15]

Thanks all

I put straight Traditional Wax on some pine draws. I will see how that goes over time. Now to decide what other finishes to try.

[Ben Wheeler]

Osmo also has a new product I'm about to try out called "Osmo Polyx Raw", which supposedly has an "almost invisible" finish..

[SuperB15]

Thanks Ben. Another to consider.

[AngelaPetruzzi]

To maintain the 'whiteness" of the timber and reduceaging honey tones I recommend penetrating oils with a white pigment. The LivosKunos in a white pigment gives amazing results. The white pigments are absorbed into the grain highlighting them rather than a painted or heavy white paintlike finish that sits on top and would hide them.