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michhes
20th June 2015, 04:48 PM
Hi,

I'm working on a set of base cabinets for our lounge room, constructed using a quality AC plywood. I'll be edging with a solid wood and add doors or drawers to fully enclose each cabinet.

The cabinets themselves will be used for general storage: books, children's toys, multimedia components, laptop, etc.

I'm not a big fan of painted wood but am otherwise considering my options for a suitable finish for the cabinet interiors.

My father-in-law smeared what I assume is a polyurethane over a basic kitchen table of my wife's and, after many years of regular use, the film shows many white scratches, has de-laminated/hazed in a few spots, and hasn't offered much in terms of protection from dents to the underlying wood. To say the least I'm not a fan.

It does seem like I need something reasonably hard-wearing for this application. I'm also concerned about the finish sticking to itself (i.e. doors) if I opt to finish the edging and doors (which I'll likely oil instead). I'll likely apply the finish before the cabinet is closed up--and am considering applying before assembly--but I'm also after something that isn't going to stink and fume for weeks following application.

I don't own a spray gun or HVLP system and don't really want one... happy and generally proficient with a brush or rag.

I'm also not terribly concerned about any colour shift but I'd prefer the finish itself not yellow over time.

One suggestion I found indicated sanding sealer (shellac) with lacquer or varnish. I've only previously sprayed lacquer from a can (with good results) but I'd prefer not to go the can route.

How many coats? Sanding to what grit in between?

Also, water or oil-based for ply? I'd like to give the good faces a light sanding (180+) before applying any finish and I know water-based will raise the grain slightly, risking a sand-through. I've also read not to use oil-based on ply but I'm not sure if that's out-dated advice.

Many thanks in advance,
Michael

ivanavitch
20th June 2015, 10:14 PM
Shellac if you don't mind a bit of colour. Water based poly seals ok, is quick and doesn't smell as much.

Glenn.Visca
20th June 2015, 10:32 PM
If you want to shellac, I would recommend ubeaut White shellac. It doesn't bring the honey colour that regular shellac does. Neil also has a hardened white shellac too, that he told me was a more hard wearing finish.

When I did some cabinets, I went the French polishing route, with a final coat of EEE Ultrashine. The result was fantastic. However, it does take time and patience and may not be suited to your needs/wants.

I also used watered down timbermate as a grain filler.

Whatever you do, prep is they key.


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Bob38S
29th June 2015, 11:13 PM
Hi,


Also, water or oil-based for ply? I'd like to give the good faces a light sanding (180+) before applying any finish and I know water-based will raise the grain slightly, risking a sand-through. I've also read not to use oil-based on ply but I'm not sure if that's out-dated advice.

Many thanks in advance,
Michael

When using water based dye or finishes, if you want to avoid sand throughs, wipe down the surface liberally with water first, this will raise the grain which you can then fine sand. Give the surface say, 24 hours to dry properly before you denib the surface. When you the do your dye and or finish the raising has been taken care of.

Just a thought to consider.

Dengue
22nd August 2015, 02:50 PM
I usually cover plywood cabinets and the bases of cabinet drawers with Cabot's Danish Oil, brushed on.

I found that with water based finishes, the cracks in the ply are shown up well and truly, even though you cannot see them after sanding. You need a really good grain filler.

The oil based finishes don't seem to have this problem

RoyG
22nd August 2015, 03:01 PM
Hi,

{Quote}......My father-in-law smeared what I assume is a polyurethane over a basic kitchen table of my wife's and, after many years of regular use, the film shows many white scratches, has de-laminated/hazed in a few spots, and hasn't offered much in terms of protection from dents to the underlying wood. To say the least I'm not a fan.........{End Quote}

Michael

Michael,

I don't think that you'll find any finish that you'll be able to apply in a home environment, that will provide "protection from dents to the underlying wood". The only finish I can think of that might provide some protection against dents would be to coat the item with epoxy resin - not something that would be recommended on an item as large are you're referring to, and not a finishing solution that will offer the look you're looking for.

RoyG

mike100jobstodo
24th August 2015, 10:50 AM
You could use varnishes or shellacs as they are highly durable.

AngelaPetruzzi
3rd September 2015, 12:02 PM
When using oil based products with ply it is important to do a test first to see the interaction, while plys in Australia are of reasonable thickness and we have not seen any concerns, overseas ply's can be very thin and some oils are able to interact with glues where delaminating occurs. Livos Australia is proud to have been tested and approved by a number of ply manufacturers to be recommended for use with ply so always check with the product supplier for their advice. When using any product in cupboards the ability to properly dry or cure can be restricted due to the limited air contact, where possible doors should be left ajar or the inside left open to allow for this process to occur sufficiently before use. The benefit with oils is that one can repair or rejuvenate the surface. Naturally the repair part will be limited by the thickness of the ply layer. Also, due to the oils not being as “glossy” as some varnishes, scratches are less easily seen. Ply being a soft substrate, you would need to consider long term use; for example, once a varnished coating is scratched, the usual way of repair it will be to sand back. With ply, this is restricted. One can also use the Kunos white to keep it from yellowing.

justonething
3rd September 2015, 09:53 PM
How about using the 3-2-1 finish as illustrated here

http://www.startwoodworking.com/post/simple-3-part-furniture-finish
Add an additional coat of furniture wax when done.

ian
3rd September 2015, 10:12 PM
Hi,

I'm working on a set of base cabinets for our lounge room, constructed using a quality AC plywood. I'll be edging with a solid wood and add doors or drawers to fully enclose each cabinet.

The cabinets themselves will be used for general storage: books, children's toys, multimedia components, laptop, etc.

I'm not a big fan of painted wood but am otherwise considering my options for a suitable finish for the cabinet interiors.
IMO it's very hard to go past regular shellac for cabinet interiors. After all you're mostly only looking to coat the ply so that dust doesn't stick in the grain. I'd go for two, three of four coats -- whatever you can apply in ONE day -- brushed on. Once the metho has evaporated there should be no lingering odour.

There's no need to muck about with a hard wearing or abrasion resistant finish as the inside of a cabinet doesn't get the knocks and scratches a table does.