Wood steering wheel cover refinishing - Help

[That Guy]

Hi all

I apologize if this is in the incorrect section.

I have a wood steering wheel cover that I would like to refinish. The finish as you can see from the pics is cracking and faded. I can pick some of the finish away with my finger nail but is extremely time consuming.

Any tips on how I can remove the old finish?

I'm a noob at this stuff.

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[Master Splinter]

Paint stripper or sandpaper.

Paint stripper will also attack plastic and may discolour some metals. Generally, the paint stripper with methylene chloride in it is the stuff to get - leave the 'environmentally friendly' ones on the shelf unless you really like applying it again and again and again and still having paint left on there (especially with automotive paints).

But you'll still have some sanding to do - once you have stripped the paint you have to rinse off the stripper, so you'll then have to sand down any raised grain.

Oh - eye and hand protection is a must with paint stripper - after about 30 seconds skin contact it feels like boiling water is being poured on there, so safety glasses and good rubber gloves (I like the Ansell Super Gloves - available from supermarkets, they are the ones that are green with a yellow wrist area) when using it is a really good idea!

[That Guy]

Thanks Master. So using paint stripper won't damage the wood? ie. take of the stain that is already on there? What gritts do you recommend I use after the paint stripper? And what gritt would you recommend if I don't use a stripper?

thanks

[Master Splinter]

It's been my experience that it depends on the stain - sometimes it's ok, sometimes it looses colour. It's not terribly predictable, especially with things that may have been stained in an industrial setting (I think sometimes a thin paint is used rather than a stain).

In any case, sanding will also remove the colour so you'll be back to whatever colour the wood was originally anyway.

If you do it without stripper, I'd start at 80 grit, or with stripper 120 grit, and then move up the grits depending on how you want to finish it.

If you want to put a varnish or clearcoat over it (automotive clear is an option, as are the tabletop epoxies, or marine varnish) maybe go to 180 before you start coating, or if you want to oil it, all the way to 2000+ is an option.

[That Guy]

Well I tired a product called circa 1850. I guess this is the environmental stuff as I left the stuff on for an hour ( ensuring not to let it dry) and nothing really happened at all. It may have removed a very thin layer of the lacquer. Well it did melt my scraper.

[Master Splinter]

Methylene Chloride. Accept no substitutes.

[That Guy]

Is there a brand a home depot you recommends. the containers don't state what type of chemical they are.

[Xanthorrhoeas]

Another idea for you.

I am not expert on finishes other than French Polish (and not really even that) but, to my eye the way that finish has degraded looks like it is a nitrocellulose lacquer. Also known as solvent lacquers, these can clean off fairly easily with the same solvents used to apply them. Before you start sanding or using paint strippers it would be worthwhile checking if you can wipe it off with some lacquer thinner. Paint shops probably sell it or U-Beaut may.

If you do use the lacquer thinners you need VERY good ventilation as, like the paint strippers, they contain hazardous chemicals.

Good luck

David

[Master Splinter]

Is there a brand a home depot you recommends. the containers don't state what type of chemical they are.

Umm we don't have Home Depot here. Bunnings, Mitre 10, Masters, Home Hardware....

But -
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Jasco-1-qt-Premium-Paint-and-Epoxy-Remover-QJBP00202/202247418 The MSDS says it's methylene chloride with some methanol and turps for good measure. If you don't drop dead from the fumes, formic acid poisoning or carbon monoxide poisoning, cancer will get you! That's the stuff to use!

Just ask the sales droid to point you towards the stuff that will not only strip paint, but kill you and require a hazmat team in full yellow bunny suits to clean up after!

[Xanthorrhoeas]

Another idea for you.

I am not expert on finishes other than French Polish (and not really even that) but, to my eye the way that finish has degraded looks like it is a nitrocellulose lacquer. Also known as solvent lacquers, these can clean off fairly easily with the same solvents used to apply them. Before you start sanding or using paint strippers it would be worthwhile checking if you can wipe it off with some lacquer thinner. Paint shops probably sell it or U-Beaut may.

If you do use the lacquer thinners you need VERY good ventilation as, like the paint strippers, they contain hazardous chemicals.

Good luck

David

Apologies, I should have checked and seen that you are in Canada:-. Ignore the reference to U-Beaut as international mailing regulations most probably would not allow them to send lacquer solvents even if they stock them. Canadian paint shops should be able to supply lacquer thinners though if you want to give this idea a try.

[That Guy]

Thanks guys

I was able to find a stripper with methylene chloride. have yet to try it. I'll also give using thinner a try

[That Guy]

So it took almost 24hrs for the paint striper to work completely to remove the gloss coat.


For what ever reason it's not uploading my pictures but it turned out really nice.

I really like how the wood looks when I wipe it down with mineral spirit. Will the finish have this kind of look if I use a satin ploy finish?

[Master Splinter]

Generally, yes - the look when wet is pretty much the look you'll get when you apply a finish. Make sure you get one rated for outside use so that it won't die early from UV breakdown.

[That Guy]

Thanks for all your help Master.

[That Guy]

question
originally when I wiped down the wood with mineral spirits the wood was a nice deep red colour but when I applied the top coat of varathane - diamond wood finish - the colour is brown . are my eyes tricking me?

[Master Splinter]

What's the colour of the varnish? There's usually a slight tint to it - in traditional varnishes this is an amber colour, but sometimes (and I've noticed this mostly in water based or non-yellowing* formulas) it comes in a slight blue colour cast.

I've never really had a nice experience with water based finishes - the few times I've tried them, it's been "oh dear" time and I've taken them straight off. (This just continues my philosophy that if a product makes eco-friendly claims, it's because it's rubbish in its main performance areas! Lead free solder? Rubbish! Environmental Paint Stripper? Rubbish! Water based varnish? Rubbish!)



*Why doesn't it yellow? Because it has a blue tint!

[That Guy]

so after redoing the top coat a few times I'm happy with this end results. I wish I had a larger selection for aerosol top coat (only one) I'm sure the one I used wasn't the best and after half the can was empty the quality of the spray deteriorated.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/04/690e75e0d9520b5e738ddd6b5f19568e.jpg

[That Guy]

and to glossy of a finish for a satin finish in my opinion.

[Master Splinter]

Protip. Drop the spray can in hot (50-70 degree C) water for 15 minutes before spraying.

You can knock the gloss level down with 0000 steel wool or a grey or maroon scotchbrite pad.