Food-safe finish for jarraj chopping board

[zenwood]

Made swmbo a chopping board from some recycled jarrah, and I'm wondering what to finish it with. It will get heavy use in the kitchen and will get submerged regularly during washing in detergent & water.

The grain is quite open: is sanding sealer food-safe & waterproof?

I have done a search and come up with the following:





Organoil: has a strong unpleasant smell that lasts a long time
Olive oil: turns rancid
no-name vegetable oil: might work because it contains a lot of preservative
Shellawax/cream: can't be immersed in water
What about EEE-Ultra-shine?

What are the chopping blocks sold in shops finished with?

There must be a simple solution...:confused:

[Harry72]

"What are the chopping blocks sold in shops finished with?"

Nothing most are raw wood.

[knucklehead]

I have just finished chopping block also. Mine is just finished in tung oil. It seemed like a fair easy finish to reapply when it gets cut and scratched.
It hasn't been used yet, I'll be sure to update you if it kills anybody.

I believe the traditional finish for butcher blocks and the like is mineral oil.

[Termite]

As many people have said in the past, and what I apply to the chopping boards that I make.

Nothing!

[RufflyRustic]

Zenwood, All Organoil products are foodsafe, according to their literature. The smell does disappear after a while. There's also a couple of Orange-smelling food grade oils around too.


cheers
RufflyRustic

[ubeaut]

This has been covered a dozen or more times - DO A SEARCH and use paraffin oil (mineral oil) or nothing if you know whats good for you.

[zenwood]

This has been covered a dozen or more times - DO A SEARCH and use paraffin oil (mineral oil) or nothing if you know whats good for you. I did a search: see post. Most results indicated what not to use, for various reasons. The no-finish finish didn't come up (on my search anyway), which I'll probably go with. Will get back in my hole now:(

[Theva]

Zen,

As you found out, nothing at all or mineral oil / paraffin.

One option is babyoil ;) (mineral oil) then some more oil/candlewax.

Cheers,
Theva

[Ashore]

Zen

I go with the Organoil with the orange smell a burnishing variety and usually apply it with a cloth under the palm sander this heats the oil gives a better finish and the added bunus it cleans the grit paper on the palm sander as well
As you however only use the dark side rub it in well .
Have also found most women like the fresh smell of the orange from the oil


Rgds
Russell



The trouble with life is there's no background music.

[ubeaut]

G'day Zenwood - Sorry, didn't read, just skimmed. Have a look at this http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=775 might (http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=775 might) help a bit.

You will also find that most of the cooking shows on the telly are going back to the raw timber chopping boards in favour of the plastic ones they were pushing a few years ago. I believe there has been a lot more tresting done on the remarkable properties of timber and there is more information available since that article of some 12 years ago.

Paraffin oil is the safest of all to use but as a rule it is only used for the initial oiling to make it look nice for selling.

There is a lot more info in the search pages but you need to know what to look for as the search isn't working as well as it should be at the moment. mostly the overwhelming answer is no finish.

Cheers - Neil :)

[ozwinner]

What are the chopping blocks sold in shops finished with?

Spit....

Al :D

[soundman]

What happened to wallnut oil, wasn't that the go a while back. :confused:

[speedy]

I use sunflower oil, it helps bring out the colour, not that it lasts long when put into use. Also keeps out water and protects the glue joints and once a month give it a wipe over with a little more oil.:cool:

[sandman]

Hi Zenwood, I have recently completed a laminated Jarrah chopping board also, I used an Organoil product designed for this use named "Food wipe".
I purchased it from a Woodshow from the Organoil stand & will be buying more this month. Pleasant citrus odour (not too strong) and brings out the natural beauty of the timber. (Why wouldn't you want to do this?)
Very happy with it. No side effects , ............. Yet...........!
Regards Sandman.

[Gra]

I made the same thing two years ago, had lots of hard worrk, regular washing when the dishes are done. The only finish I used was good old olive oil, doesnt have any adverse health efects, darkes the colour of the jarrah buitifully and after a wash, just open the pantry pour on some more oil spread it around and let it dry.

It still looks beutifull

[zenwood]

Thanks guys and gals for all the advice. I decided to go for the no-finish finish. The photos show the result. I also refurbished the old pine chopping board, which had gone black at the ends (mould?).

I think the search technology on this board (!) could be improved a bit (google?).

Searches for historical consensus won't necessarily yield good advice, as this thread has shown, trends can change with time.

Incidentally, the jarrah board is two pieces edge jointed with aquadere polyurethane glue.

[Ashore]

Zen

Have made quite a few cuttind boards and my latest design is to route 2 or 3 rebates across the bottom at rt angles to the joints and insert and glue usually jarrah strips close fitting ie tap into place this stops the board bowing and gives greater strength



Rgds
Russell

[zenwood]

Zen
Have made quite a few cuttind boards and my latest design is to route 2 or 3 rebates across the bottom at rt angles to the joints and insert and glue usually jarrah strips close fitting ie tap into place this stops the board bowing and gives greater strength
Russell: an interesting idea. Wouldn't have thought strength would be an issue though. As for bowing, I planed the bottoms of mine slightly hollow to make sure the boards contact the (assumed flat) surface at its edges.

Does sideways expansion and contraction of the your boards affect the glue joint between the board and the strips at right angles?

My next board might incorporate a decorative strip in a contrasting timber of similar hardness (tassie oak?)

[Ashore]

Russell: an interesting idea. Wouldn't have thought strength would be an issue though. As for bowing, I planed the bottoms of mine slightly hollow to make sure the boards contact the (assumed flat) surface at its edges.

Does sideways expansion and contraction of the your boards affect the glue joint between the board and the strips at right angles?

My next board might incorporate a decorative strip in a contrasting timber of similar hardness (tassie oak?)Haven't had any problems with expansion contraction
Have tried harder wood strips across the top of cypress t & g boards but the softer boards wear quicker on the cutting surface, didn't work well

A lot of my boards were to order to cover sinks and needed strenghting I felt rather than boards to rest on flat surfaces

Also made some special large ones for rolling dough and felt they would be better with strengtheners

You must also allow for my training where everything is over designed by a factor of 4 at least

another seller was to make small 6 " square trivits to match , people used these as cheese boards or to put hot pots etc on and as you threw them in for nothing (theres no such thing as a free lunch ) knew thew had gotten a bargain , the spruke sells better than the goods most times.



The trouble with life is there's no background music.