Mirror Finish surface for heavy objects like lcd monitor

[Tegmark]

What is the best way to get a mirror finish on veneer & hardwood that will rest an lcd screen? Can you have many coats of canned poly like 6-8 without any impression or dents left? Thanks

[Master Splinter]

Try one of the epoxy finishes (http://boatcraft.com.au/Shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_21) and buff to your desired sheen.

[Evanism]

You'll find the poly is soft for the first few days, but after a week it is as hard as steel.

After its hard, there will be absolutely no denting it!

[Tegmark]

You'll find the poly is soft for the first few days, but after a week it is as hard as steel.

After its hard, there will be absolutely no denting it!
So it doesn't matter about number of coats? 3 or 8 for example? My plan was to wait a month or two at least until I sit the screen on it. thanks

[Master Splinter]

If you use an epoxy pour on gloss type finish you'll only need one coat.

[China]

Rustins plastic coating

[Evanism]

So it doesn't matter about number of coats? 3 or 8 for example? My plan was to wait a month or two at least until I sit the screen on it. thanks

The other guys have good points on other products, I responded specifically to your "poly" wording.

There are some very good threads on prep with poly and how To Get It Right.

Basically, each coat needs denibbing and a light mechanical abrasion. There is a goldilocks period to do this (also temperatures, watch them) Ones it hardens you cannot abrade it properly.

3 is absolutely heaps. It's like car paint, once it's right, more coats don't do anything. Others will contest this. BUT, 3 coats well done will look thick and juicy. Each product is different in how long the cross linking process takes, but it's pretty rapid. You don't need a month. I've used it as a surface after a week and it's like diamond.

Poly is good because it's cheap and you don't need anything exotic to get it right.

I might suggest you test the process on a bit of offcut or sample before hand, just so you can experiment. Nothing worse than learning finishing on your masterpiece....what could possibly go wrong!

[Tegmark]

The other guys have good points on other products, I responded specifically to your "poly" wording.

There are some very good threads on prep with poly and how To Get It Right.

Basically, each coat needs denibbing and a light mechanical abrasion. There is a goldilocks period to do this (also temperatures, watch them) Ones it hardens you cannot abrade it properly.

3 is absolutely heaps. It's like car paint, once it's right, more coats don't do anything. Others will contest this. BUT, 3 coats well done will look thick and juicy. Each product is different in how long the cross linking process takes, but it's pretty rapid. You don't need a month. I've used it as a surface after a week and it's like diamond.

Poly is good because it's cheap and you don't need anything exotic to get it right.

I might suggest you test the process on a bit of offcut or sample before hand, just so you can experiment. Nothing worse than learning finishing on your masterpiece....what could possibly go wrong!

Thanks, appreciate the advice. I personally found 5-7 coats are needed on veneer due to the imperfections & small cracks etc. I don't think sanding the 1mm thin veneer is a good idea. I wish I could get large single pieces of hardwood with patterns like veneer.