A little cedar writing desk followed me home ...

[Thumbthumper]

A fairly simple little desk. Around 1860 I'm guessing.
This will be moving into the house when completed so it can replace some of the last Ikea/chipboard/plywood/MDF pieces of furniture that we have.
The top was originally nailed on. The nail holes were filled with a plaster filler and coated with the heavy red oxide stain that was popular at the time :~.
I'm not sure how I'll re-attach the top yet, as the nail holes are too big to hold and I'm reluctant to reposition the nails (thus creating more nail holes to fill).
Maybe pocket screws.
There's a lot of plaster filler, oxide stain and white paint in the grain, so It'll need a good scrub.

308271308272308273

Here's the one original draw that it came with. I'll have to build another one to match.

308274

There's some damage on one of the leg turnings that I'll have to address. Too much damage to be called character :no:
I'll splice in a couple of pieces of cedar and either turn it back in the lathe, or carve it.

308275

Here's the top. An avant-garde mix of sump oil and black ink/dye/paint.
I'm hoping to scrub most of it out, but I'll plane it off if I have to.
I'll plug the big nail holes with cedar plugs.

308278

I have the desk apart now. I'll start cleaning it all soon.

308281

[Pat]

RedThumb, I'd attach the top to the framework with buttons. 1 each end and 2 each stretcher. Either disassemble the carcass and route the dado or use a Biscuit joiner to cut the slots, site specific.

[Thumbthumper]

RedThumb, I'd attach the top to the framework with buttons. 1 each end and 2 each stretcher. Either disassemble the carcass and route the dado or use a Biscuit joiner to cut the slots, site specific.

Buttons would work.

It's all apart now and I could easily plow (I'd use a plane), or chisel a groove in the rails.
The top's quite cupped and I'll need some force to hold it down. I'd probably have to use 2 each end as well as the 2 on the stretchers.
Buttons are also great for allowing movement in the top.

I'll have a think on this.

Cheers

[Pat]

If it is that warped, thought maybe given to ripping into 125mm boards, jointing with a 7 or 8, unless it is one single slab/board. If it is one slab/board, joint it the best you can.

Stanley No 71 is a great tool for the dado :;, I do have a 55, but the 71 with the fence and 1/4" knife is still my weapon of choice:U

Quieter than the screamers as well.

[Xanthorrhoeas]

The top's quite cupped and I'll need some force to hold it down. I'd probably have to use 2 each end as well as the 2 on the stretchers.Buttons are also great for allowing movement in the top.I'll have a think on this.CheersOne way to fix a cupped table top is to wet your lawn on a sunny day and place the tabletop, top down on the grass, and let the warm sun and moisture take out the cupping. Don't get the grass too saturated though as you dont want to weaken the animal glue joining the boards (if more than one board). Then seal the straightened top on both sides with shellac.Good restoration removes as little as possible and adds as little as possible so I would caution against ripping the top and rejoining. Apart from anything else you lose a series of kerfs and end up with a smaller top that does not look antique.

[Thumbthumper]

If it is that warped, thought maybe given to ripping into 125mm boards, jointing with a 7 or 8, unless it is one single slab/board. If it is one slab/board, joint it the best you can.

The top is one piece, so I'm not going to rip it. I have in the past, using a backsaw, undercut some rips (10 mm or so into the underside of the board) along a badly cupped top to get it to sit down a bit.
It's not really that bad. Nailing down would work (but I'm reluctant because of new holes), or pocket screws should pull it down. There's enough meat in the top for this. I've been thinking about buttons, but they were never used in this period (not that I've seen anyway).



One way to fix a cupped table top is to wet your lawn on a sunny day and place the tabletop, top down on the grass, and let the warm sun and moisture take out the cupping. Don't get the grass too saturated though as you dont want to weaken the animal glue joining the boards (if more than one board). Then seal the straightened top on both sides with shellac.Good restoration removes as little as possible and adds as little as possible so I would caution against ripping the top and rejoining. Apart from anything else you lose a series of kerfs and end up with a smaller top that does not look antique.

The top is one piece, and it's going to stay that way :U
I have used the same (lay it on the lawn, or even concrete) technique to straighten newer cupped boards. It's worked quite a few times. This top is over 150 years old and I don't think it's going to want to go in any direction other than it's current state. It's not too bad. I'm confident that I can pull it down mechanically. I will seal both sides probably just before I attach it (while it's still a bit moist).

[Thumbthumper]

I did some cleaning this morning.

The drawer face before and after.
There is some grain there :U

308835308836

The drawer bottom and sides.
I love the way the maker has used up bits of scrap cedar to make up the drawer bottom. It gives me an excuse to use up bits and pieces when I build the new drawer.
You can see the pieces I've added to the drawer sides to build up the runners.
Second pic is the cleaned drawer bottom face.

308837308838

The side rails. One is filthy one is clean. Can you tell which is which?

308839

Some pieces had a lot of paint deep in the grain.
I had to use stripper and a good scrub multiple times.

308840

I need to fix the chewed out leg next.
While the glue's hot, I'll glue the drawer together.

[jcge]

I've a similar single drawer table in the same condition - I'm watching and learning
Thanks for posting this
Regards
John

[Thumbthumper]

Here's some of the plaster filler I need to dig out. This section is at the front and will be seen.
I'll splice in a cedar piece.
Before and after. I've also flattened the section of chewed out leg in order to glue on a new piece before shaping.

309362309363

I had some warm hide glue bubbling away, so I glued up the original drawer.

309364

I'll glue in the patches when I get some more time in the shed.

[Thumbthumper]

I cut and glued in some patches last night.

On the top of the leg ...

309457309458

And on the turning ...

309459

Here's the result after some carving and sanding.

309460

I always do the patching before the cleaning so that the colour of the new pieces blend with the old shellac and dirt.

[Christos]

Really enjoying the work in progress on this one.

[Thumbthumper]

I built the new case runners and started the glue up today.

Here's the old runners and guides. Quite worn and will need to be replaced. I normally try and reuse what I can. Often turning them upside down, but because of the tenon position this is not possible here.

310094

I was able to get the marking gauge settings easily from the old runners for the tenons.

310095

This is just the dry fit to make sure the runners and guides sit properly.

310096

Ready for the glue up.
It took me about half a day to clean the legs. Scrubbing away the old paint and stain. I had to pick a lot of paint out of the grain with a scribe.

310097

The runners/guides and the table ends are now glued.
I was able to use the original rose-head nails to put the runners together.

310098310099

Next job is to scrub the top and see how clean I can get it :doh:

[Thumbthumper]

One more thing achieved today was the pockets for the pocket screws.
I decided to run with this method to attach the top.

The old way.
Chisel, gouge, eggbeater and a countersink bit.

310129

[Thumbthumper]

I haven't had a chance to clean the top yet.
I sliced my finger open with a freshly sharpened tenon saw on Saturday, and after bandaging it up, and not having any man-sized rubber gloves in the house, I was restricted to 'dry' work :doh:.

Day one was the first part of the glue up.

310354310355

Day two I glued in the front top rail and the drawer divider block. The block was originally only nailed in. I couldn't find any traces of glue.
I used a couple of dabs of glue to keep it in position prior to nailing. This will make it easier to nail and it made it easier to check the drawer size and to square it up.

310356310357

All that's left is cleaning the top and making a drawer now. The drawer needs to be completed before I install the case runners.
Off to the shops to buy some rubber gloves :U (although I can make the drawer when I find some time).

[Thumbthumper]

I didn't have much time in the shed this weekend.
I did manage to get the drawer pieces dimensioned, marked out and drilled. I haven't cut the dovetails yet.

311188311189311190

I haven't installed the case drawer runners yet (I've checked everything with a clamped dry fit). I've set the original nails with the tips protruding which makes it easier to check that they are missing the original nails holes. It also makes it easier to position them when it comes time to install. I drilled pilot holes for the nails to avoid splitting. They will be glued as well.

311195

The drawer knobs are turned and ready to be polished.

311196

[Horsecroft88]

Once again, yet another example of how to really restore a nice antique table. Being cedar for me, only adds to the value of this project.

Lovely work as always Thumbthumper. Looking forward to its completion and that this one will be a keeper.

[Thumbthumper]

I glued up the new drawer and the case runners today.
I also found some cedar scraps for the drawer bottom.

311810311811

The first coat of shellac on the frame.
Before, after and with the drawers installed to set the drawer stops.

311812311813311815

I spent about an hour cleaning down the top. I managed to get a lot of the oil and ink out.
The paint within the grain is a bit more of a concern, I'll try to scrub it out with some stripper, but I may still have to scrape or plane it.
Before and after cleaning. If I can get the paint out, I'm fine with the light ink staining that's left.

311823311824

[Christos]

Looks like quite a lot of work on the top still needed to be done. Will continue to watch to see how it come up.

[Thumbthumper]

Looks like quite a lot of work on the top still needed to be done.

Sigh :C

[Horsecroft88]

Urrgh I so know that feeling. Sometimes the paint seems to get really deep into the grain of cedar, which is a complete pain to get rid of, and yet other times for some reason there seems to be so little penetration into the grain, that it can be quite a doodle to clean up. Weird hey !

I suspect Christos is about right, that is unless you are keen on planeing the top. And of course the risk is that in doing so loose patina. The colour will come up just fine once sorted.

[Thumbthumper]

Urrgh I so know that feeling. Sometimes the paint seems to get really deep into the grain of cedar, which is a complete pain to get rid of, and yet other times for some reason there seems to be so little penetration into the grain, that it can be quite a doodle to clean up. Weird hey !

I suspect Christos is about right, that is unless you are keen on planeing the top. And of course the risk is that in doing so loose patina. The colour will come up just fine once sorted.

I know what you mean.

I don't know if I feel like spending hours hunched over the top picking paint out of the grain.
I'm going to give it one more go at cleaning, but I'll plane it if need be.

[Thumbthumper]

I've set the drawer stops and started polishing the drawer fronts. I want to finish this before gluing in the knobs and fixing in the drawer bottoms.

312454312455

I sat down this morning to try and clean the rest of the paint out of the top. I was getting nowhere fast. The paint was too deep and I was damaging the top by picking at it.

312456

Out came the number 3 and the scraper. There's still a fair bit of paint to pick out, but I got about 80% of it out.

312458312459

This is the result after about half an hour of picking paint out. About a third of the way there. The top still has some character as you can see.

312460

I finished cleaning the top now. I'm happy with how it came up.
Next job is to cut some plugs for the nail holes and glue them in.

[ajw]

Enjoying this restoration.

Excellent work, and very informative.


cheers,

ajw

[Christos]

Will the plugs be contrasting or the same type of wood?

[Thumbthumper]

Will the plugs be contrasting or the same type of wood?

The plugs are to repair damage and are different shapes and sizes. I want them to blend in as much as possible so they'll be Cedar. I'll wash them over with dirty spirits to even out the colour.

After cutting out the damage, I shaped the plugs and pressed them into position ready for gluing (so I know where they go).

312608312609

The plugs are glued in now and drying. After they're dry, I'll plane/chisel them flush.
After a final wash down of the top, I can attach it and start the polishing process.
The desk frame has now had a few rubs with polish and is ready for the top.

[Horsecroft88]

Very nice work, and I like the idea of plugs, rather than simply using putty. Definitely the way to do this job well, and a good technique to be aware of.

Planing the top similarly I can see in the end was the most effective way of getting rid of the paint. A little patina perhaps lost but in overall terms a far better outcome.

Looking forward to seeing how this one comes together.

[Thumbthumper]

I've finished planing/chiseling the plugs.

312916

One more clean down, and the top is ready for attaching and polishing.
The desk should be finished in a week or so.

Stay tuned for the glamour shots.

[powderpost]

Just picked up on this thread, looking really good. Just wondered if the "paint" in the grain of the top, was in fact paint or the old grain filler. The old filler was made from talc, turps and probably an umber to match the colour. If it was the old grain filler, then a wipe with some diluted stain may save you a lot of work, that is if it is not too late.
Jim

[Thumbthumper]

Just picked up on this thread, looking really good. Just wondered if the "paint" in the grain of the top, was in fact paint or the old grain filler. The old filler was made from talc, turps and probably an umber to match the colour. If it was the old grain filler, then a wipe with some diluted stain may save you a lot of work, that is if it is not too late.
Jim

Hi Jim,

I was definitely paint. Stripper softened it, and to a degree, spirits softened it.
The grain was quite open on the top, and the paint was deep.

I've seen a lot of the talc/plaster filler. You can get a lot out of the timber by using hot water and scrubbing. Even if there's a bit left, the amber colour of the shellac build seems to blend the surface sufficiently.
They were fond of that talc grain filler in the day :doh:

[Thumbthumper]

The drawer bottoms are nailed in and the knobs are glued in.

313045

Before and after the first couple of coats of neat shellac.

313048313049

I've screwed the top on and started the polishing process. It's cold and damp in Canberra at the moment, so I'll complete polishing the top inside. Shellac can go cloudy if there's too much dampness in the air. Not long to go now. Build the polish, wax and Robert's your mother's brother. About a week I'd say.

313051313052

[jcge]

Great result - a beautiful little table

Regards
John

[Thumbthumper]

The desk is completely finished now. Polished, waxed, buffed and moved inside.

Here's how it looked when I dragged it home with me.

314608

Here's how it looks now. Please excuse my terrible photography.

314609314610314611314612

This wasn't a particularly challenging restoration, but it was a fair bit of work. Cleaning, rebuilding and polishing.
Not sure what is next, but there will be something sooner than later.

[Horsecroft88]

While not for your level of skills and experience a hard or perhaps very challenging project, I suspect for others it might have been. The thing I like is how you detail your threads, as you show others how to re-create and put back together a range of nice pieces which otherwise might not be saved for prosperity.

So very well done, your table looks really lovely and is a credit to you. As ever will keep an eye out for your next project. I must admit I havn't been doing anything woody for a while now. Am time poor what with plastering and painting keeping me busy.

Dave

[Christos]

I just recalled this thread today. Thank you for the update and the posting of the finished restoration:2tsup:.