Oil for outdoor setting

[plantagenon]

I purchased an outdoor setting from Masters Hardware. It is Eucalyptus timber with a metal frame. The timber is very dry and needs to be oiled to stop splits.

Can anyone recommend the best oil to use on this setting, please? I was thinking of tung oil based oil for a total seal but I don't want stripes across the backside of my pants every time I sit in the chair :B

Greg

[Wrongwayfirst]

Tung oil will dry, 3 or 4 coats will give it a nice shine. Have used tung oil on many projects it comes up like a varnish. On my deck I use Feast Watson natural deck oil applied with a brush or a rag same result, again 2or3 coats this is a dull sheen. Keep in mind that a lot of deck stains are water based which IMO are not worth using and why I use feast Watson as it is an oil,
cheers

[AngelaPetruzzi]

Whatever the product you contemplate on using, check out the maintenance regime. Don't expect it to last years and years and make sure it is one that is not layer forming. Often the softeners in these coatings dry out and cause the unsightly cracks in the coat which then necessitates sanding back to recoat. Choose a penetrating oil and one that wont peel, crack or blister, especially in your neck of the woods.

[hughie]

I have always used BLO successfully.

[AJ]

I've used water based decking oil on my outdoor furniture for years. I just give it another coat every second year and it keeps it looking great.:D

[Bushmiller]

Greg

Have a look at Organoil's Garden Furniture Oil. Easy to use. Apply with a scourer and wipe off excess. recoat any time. It's all we ever use and I think I'm becoming addicted to the smell, which, for me, unfortunately wears off after two or three days :(.

Organoil - Garden Furniture Oil (http://www.organoil.com.au/gardenfurnoil/index.html)

Used to be sold at Bunnings, but they told me the company had gone out of business. It wasn't true.

Regards
Paul

[CMB]

Would recommend Sikkens Cetol HLS. Sikkens Woodcare Products by Tenaru, Australia - Woodstains staining Timber Coatings Paint Painting Coatings Stains Wood Fillers Water Based Oil Based Putty (http://www.tenaru.com.au/)

Am currently using it on an outdoor setting I'm making. http://www.woodworkforums.com/f40/outdoor-setting-wip-176309/

Craig.

[Robson Valley]

We have fairly brutal temperature swings between summer and winter. From +35C in the shade to -35C anywhere.
Log home builders, log furniture builders and chainsaw carvers like Sikkens Cetol. It is expensive but far more durable that whatever is next in line.

[Mr Brush]

Hmmm - now I'm thoroughly confused :?

I have a couple of outdoor projects at the moment which involve timber mountings for lights and nameplates (brass - doctors style), all of which will be partly undercover (verandah) but exposed to lots of sun and some rain. Timbers are NG Rosewood and Tonka (poor man's teak) - i.e. both fairly orange in colour. I'd prefer a fairly mat/satin finish if possible, with some timber grain showing through.

I spoke to Mr Organoil at the recent Canberra WWW show, and he recommended their Decking Exterior finish for this. I note there is a 'Gold Highlighter' version of this, which accentuates the orange colour while also having extra pigments for sun protection. Has anyone used this stuff??

I've ruled out any kind of poly or epoxy coating, as I know they'll need complete recoating periodically due to the sun exposure.....and maintenance is in the hands of the client !

This Cetol stuff seems to keep cropping up a lot in the forum - is it really much better than other similar products in terms of water/sun protection? The current choice has come down to Cetol or the Organoil Decking Exterior product.

All I have to do now is find a supplier of some cheese-head brass crews for mounting the nameplates - does anyone know any local small volume suppliers for these?

Any advice much appreciated - I don't tend to do much outdoor timber work as you can tell !!

[Robson Valley]

Nobody here talks about anything except Cetol. Despite the yellow color, it is transparent = wood grain and knots show up very well. Many homes have large chainsaw carvings here and there, all done with Cetol. Lions, bears, eagles, lifesized and bigger. One guy got the roots & stump, turned it over and did an Octopus! I've only had a home here for 13 yrs/Aug. and I have never seen anything refinished. That includes log picnic tables and benches.

[CMB]

Sikkens is also a brand favoured by many architects. Just one of those companies that make damn good products and something I'm always prepared to spend the extra pennies on. Have yet to try Organoil, so can't comment on whether it's as good or better. Plan to try it in near future though as I always love an Aussie product. :aussie5:

Craig.

[Mr Brush]

Thanks guys - looks like 3 coats of Cetol HLS in the teak colour is the go. I suspect that the Organoil product is a similar composition, but I'll go with the Sikkens if only because it seems to be so widely used.

Good job I read the data sheet; it recommends that any sharp corners on the timber be radiused before coating (to avoid a break in the film coating?). I wouldn't have thought of that.....

Cheers

[Bushmiller]

Thanks guys - looks like 3 coats of Cetol HLS in the teak colour is the go. I suspect that the Organoil product is a similar composition, but I'll go with the Sikkens if only because it seems to be so widely used.

Good job I read the data sheet; it recommends that any sharp corners on the timber be radiused before coating (to avoid a break in the film coating?). I wouldn't have thought of that.....

Cheers

Mr B

It's actually true of almost any surface coating. A sharp arris (you probably can't have a blunt arris when I think on it) does not support a paint, varnish or oiled covering as well as a flat or rounded surface. In an external situation this becomes more critical because of the increased chances of weather getting under the finish coat.

It is most probably the reason a lot of decking is pencil rounded on the top edge.

Regards
Paul

[CMB]

Very true indeed. But there are fundamental differences between coatings and penetrating treatments.

Craig.

[Sawdust Maker]

I'd go the organoil - at least it's a local product