Sealing ply kitchen bench

[bump73]

Hi all first post here sorry if i've got the wrong section.
I'm currently making some plywood benchtops for my kitchen and am after some advice on the best way to finish them. Basically they are constructed of 25mm CD ply which I cut into 43mm strips and then laminated together using Techniglue so that the edge profile becomes the top surface of the bench. I'm at the point now where I have 2 - 2400mm x 600mm x 40mm bench tops ( have run them through a thickneser to get them even) that need to be sealed up.
Would like to use something that is not to toxic and doesn't smell to bad as the final coat will probably be applied once I install them and have cut out for the sink and cooktop. I dont really want to change the colour to much as it looks quite nice when wet a bit to show the natural colours.
Hopefully someone out there has some advice as I normally work with metal and this is my first major wood project.
Cheers
Ben
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w303/bump_73/P1050124.jpg (http://s179.photobucket.com/user/bump_73/media/P1050124.jpg.html)

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w303/bump_73/P1050122.jpg (http://s179.photobucket.com/user/bump_73/media/P1050122.jpg.html)

[Wrongwayfirst]

Last house the island bench was tas oak with four coats of tung oil. Held up to wear and tear real good, looked real good. Couple of thinking bits for you, the hole you cut for the sink etc will leave you with bare timber maybe coat this before installing the sink and the sink will have lots of water splashed around it so seal the sink to the bench very well.
cheers

[Alby123]

Hi Ben , a few months back I finished the new kitchen bench top. I used Megapoxy 132 which is used as a floor sealer which is clear. It is a 2 part epoxy resin which takes up to 7 days to cure and harden properly.
Here are some pics of the finished kitchen benchtop.
282843282845282844
Hope this helps you. I applied 3 coats and as you can already guess it is very durable and if you find you don't like the scratches from day to day use, you can apply another coat. By adding additional coats you end up with an appearance much like a sheet of glass has been put on the bench.
Cheers Alby

[bump73]

That looks great Alby but i'm not sure if I want something that shiny as with the way the missus and daughter use the kitchen it would end up scratched up in no time at all. Would prefer something not so glossy but will still bring out the colour.
The cutouts will definitely be sealed after they are cut as well as the underside prior to installation.

Ben

[chambezio]

Good morning Mr Bump
I agree totally with Alby. Basically you have a pine benchtop. Being pine it is soft if compared to say a hardwood. I would use a 2 pack clear (there are a number of gloss levels available). You mentioned that you ran it through a thicknesser but you never mentioned sanding the surface. You need to have a fine sanded surface before applying your chosen finish. The bottom and unseen sides don't need the fine sanding but you dfinitely need to apply the same number of coats as the top and seen edges. The 2 pack paints are hard and very durable, and that is what you need for long service of the top.

[Bernt]

Hi Ben,

First, I can't really see in photos, but I assume there will be quite a few small holes in the end grain layers of the plywood as you haven't used some fancy expensive (marine) ply. They would have to be filled (probably epoxy would be best, the techniglue you got)

Then the finish, as others have suggested, an epoxy/ 2 pack polyurethane will get you a good waterproof finish. For bench tops however (especially softer timbers) they will get damaged and are not easy to repair nicely. Also if you are after a less glossy (plasticky) look maybe other products will suit you better.

I use a product called hardwax (treatex) oil on benchtops, very natural non toxic finish and very easy to apply and repair when needed. Might be worth a google:)

Good luck with it