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20th March 2013, 10:00 PM
Hi all, A long time since I've been in here.
I'm currently on a mission of taking the paint off our old cedar windows and oiling them. Let's code name it 'mission brown'.
I took the paint off the inside some time ago and the job was put on hold. The paint on the outside was very old, dry, cracked and often worn off. In the intervening time some water marks appeared around the corners of these windows on the inside. I suspect it is from water condensing on the inside of the windows. I have observed this a number of times (top room in split level house, blinds off), but there may also be water ingress from outside, it's hard to tell. The roof line runs up to the base of the windows and although they're under a decent eave we get some splash back. It's possible water ingress could occur from under the window itself as there's a gap between the window and the flashing. There's also some gaps between the timbers in the frame. The beading is weathered, but good timber can be found with a bit of sanding except the end of the bottom bead in a couple of places looks like it may have rotted a little.
I've attached pics showing this, and an overview of a section of the windows.
So the question. Given the above scenario, is the seal around the windows likely to be good enough under the beading? Will the oiling be enough to ward of any water ingress that may occur? (I'm using Sikkens HLS) Is it worth replacing the beading, checking the putty, topping up if pliable or using a smear of silicone under the bead? Is simply filling the gaps with putty enough. I'm currently leaning towards removing the bottom bead only and making sure all gaps are well filled. Looking for thoughts - no liability implied :).
http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96338-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-3.jpghttp://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96339-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-2.jpghttp://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96340-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-1.jpg
Thanks,
Mike.
Attached Thumbnails http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96338d1363775743t-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-3.jpg (http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96338d1363776828-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-3.jpg) http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96339d1363775740t-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-2.jpg (http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96339d1363776828-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-2.jpg) http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96340d1363775736t-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-1.jpg (http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96340d1363776828-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-1.jpg)
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com.... (http://www.renovateforum.com/f84/cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-108859/)
I'm currently on a mission of taking the paint off our old cedar windows and oiling them. Let's code name it 'mission brown'.
I took the paint off the inside some time ago and the job was put on hold. The paint on the outside was very old, dry, cracked and often worn off. In the intervening time some water marks appeared around the corners of these windows on the inside. I suspect it is from water condensing on the inside of the windows. I have observed this a number of times (top room in split level house, blinds off), but there may also be water ingress from outside, it's hard to tell. The roof line runs up to the base of the windows and although they're under a decent eave we get some splash back. It's possible water ingress could occur from under the window itself as there's a gap between the window and the flashing. There's also some gaps between the timbers in the frame. The beading is weathered, but good timber can be found with a bit of sanding except the end of the bottom bead in a couple of places looks like it may have rotted a little.
I've attached pics showing this, and an overview of a section of the windows.
So the question. Given the above scenario, is the seal around the windows likely to be good enough under the beading? Will the oiling be enough to ward of any water ingress that may occur? (I'm using Sikkens HLS) Is it worth replacing the beading, checking the putty, topping up if pliable or using a smear of silicone under the bead? Is simply filling the gaps with putty enough. I'm currently leaning towards removing the bottom bead only and making sure all gaps are well filled. Looking for thoughts - no liability implied :).
http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96338-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-3.jpghttp://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96339-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-2.jpghttp://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96340-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-1.jpg
Thanks,
Mike.
Attached Thumbnails http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96338d1363775743t-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-3.jpg (http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96338d1363776828-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-3.jpg) http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96339d1363775740t-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-2.jpg (http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96339d1363776828-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-2.jpg) http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96340d1363775736t-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-1.jpg (http://www.renovateforum.com/attachments/f84/96340d1363776828-cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-window-1.jpg)
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com.... (http://www.renovateforum.com/f84/cedar-windows-rebead-not-rebead-108859/)