Shellac grain filler!!!

[Santalum]

After stripping the varnish from an old Oak serving tray I am left with open grain bare timber in need filling, I checked out Wattyl grain filler but it seems to me like a messy slow process (24 hrs dry time)
As I am planning to French polish the tray I have decided to try filling the grain by applying an initial coat of very thick Shellac and sanding it right back after it dries, has anyone else tried this method of grain filling and is it successfull?

[Sturdee]

Yes, when you are french polishing it is better not to use a grain filler but use the shellac instead.

First I apply two brush coats of shellac and when dry rub back with steel wool.

Then apply polish with a rubber untill a good shine is obtained and when dry rub back with steel wool. Be carefull with rubbing back ( use a circular motion not up and down ) that you don't take it all off but only the ridges and then repolish again. If the steel wool doesn't take of all the ridges use a small bit of 400 # sandpaper on those spots.

Repeat the previous untill all the grains have been filled to your satisfaction , then apply the finish coats. After drying apply a wax surface.

Takes a while but all good finishes take a while. :D


Peter.

[Santalum]

Thanks Peter, sounds logical to me, will follow your advice, and when finished post a pic of the tray.

[Sturdee]

You're welcome, I learned french polishing last year from an old master and that is how he taught us.

I posted a while back pics on the board of the bedroom suite that I repolished under his guidance. Might be worthwile searching for that post.

If you have further questions just ask.


Peter.

[Green]

Just a thought - Shellac finish is not terribly resistant to high temperatures. Be careful that you don't place mugs of hot coffee (Irish or otherwisw) directly on the surface of your serving tray as heat marks may result.

[violincrafter]

In order to get that mirror finish that is truly French polish there are a couple of "tricks" that can speed up the process by filling the pores of various timbre.

Mahogany and walnut varieties have a fairly large pore structure to it! (not poor lol)

Some other close grained timbre might also benefit from "filling" to a lesser extent than the large open grained varieties.

The first stage to the French method is to use a "filling" medium that will provide a good base in which to level out the shellac coat.

Many have become impatient in doing it right, and are arguably wanting a quick fix to everything in a mass produced world- but this doesnt work in French polishing.

You need to obtain a very fine powder called "pumice" that will fill these natural pores of our beloved timbre. With regards to mahogany and other tonal timbre of that shade finely ground brick dust is a must.This usually has to be very finely ground to a suitable filler.

Once you have attained the right powder for the job (according to timbre colour) you need to get a pounce bag or by the French "couille".

This filters out the powder only allowing the finest of particles to fill your substrate. It is sprinkled through this and pumice power turns transparent when the shellac is applied whilst the brick dust will resort to a tone according to the clay from where its from.

Pumice becomes a fine abrasive which in turn will smooth the surface as a indirect effect of rubbing in, which also will remove any scratches left by the preliminary sanding of the timbre.

the filler thus abrades the wood so as to combine with the fibres giving it a characteristic of the wood itself.

The overall appearance results in a most natuaral looking shellac filler to allow for subsequent shellac layers. What a lovely finish it becomes,,,How sweet it is? ;)

[rsser]

Oak has big pores, and on a tray you need to fill the grain and finish with something durable.

I'd suggest you consider grain filling with Timbermate and finishing with oil wet-sanded with an ROS and/or elbow grease.

I wouldn't go near a tray with its inevitable spills with shellac, much as I like the stuff.

[Santalum]

Thanks to all for the tips, Ern I hear and understand your reservations re Shellac and spills, I am treating this more as a small managable size excercise in French polishing, the Oak is quite attractive and I think it will come up quite well, when finished the tray will be more for display than functional, though if it does get marked during the odd occassion it is pressed into service repair wont be a big deal.
BTW looks like it was made in the 30s or 40s picked it up cheap recently in an antique shop.

[johnbudg57]

After stripping the varnish from an old Oak serving tray I am left with open grain bare timber in need filling, I checked out Wattyl grain filler but it seems to me like a messy slow process (24 hrs dry time)
As I am planning to French polish the tray I have decided to try filling the grain by applying an initial coat of very thick Shellac and sanding it right back after it dries, has anyone else tried this method of grain filling and is it successfull?
hi, i am a french polisher with 45 years experiance if you wish addvice ring me on 0243992707. john

[scooter]

Goodonya for offering, John :2tsup:

[ubeaut]

Put some pumice under the outer skin (layer) of your rubber, and polish as normal. the pumice will grind the shellac into the pores of the timber filling them fast and evenly.

All is explained in detail in the book "A Polishers Handbook (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/book.html)"

Cheers - Neil :)

[soundman]

What about Ubeaut "hard white shelac" its suposed to cop the heat and wet a bit better isn't it.

cheers

[Wizened of Oz]

Yes. I go along with Soundman.
I finished a mobile kitchen work centre and a side table with UBeaut's Hard Shellac and nothing has marked them.

[Neal]

Yes hard shellac works well we have two tas oak side tables used daily ,both over two years old & starting to show a few light scratches from the bottom of cups etc ( I know use little round cup doovers):) but a quick hit with eee makes em like new again .
Ubeaut,s grain filler was used under the hard shellac but did not over do it as I heard that to much filler "swamps" the timber .

[Tasman]

Just a thought............i had a project that i sprayed then i put a hospital blanket on the top before it was fully set so it left an awful pattern in the polish so some how i had to get it out or strip it so i got my old rubber out with a small bowl of neat thinners then started pulling the laquer across the grain then with the grain keeping the rubber fairly wet to disolve the laquer and i found the grain filled very quickly....sanded then spayed a few more coats and repeated the process and in no time the grain was filled and it came up like glass...........the project was an old antique red cedar desk and a wardrobe.........it is a very quick process and it is literaly french polished but with a different medium.......hope this helps some one.

Reguards Tasman.

[Jedo_03]

for everything you need to know abt FP...
see this...
http://www.milburnguitars.com/fpbannerframes.html

for bigger jobs like tabletops - use a bigger pad
cheers
Jedo