Swarts tools 305mm 12" sliding compound mitre saw drop saw

[woodPixel]

Ive been thinking about one of these saws for ages! Id only use it to pre-prep long lengths for final cutting as I have zero space for one inside.

Anyone used their stand/cart? Portable Universal Mitre Saw Stand (SW1001) - Swarts Tools | An exciting new brand of semi-professional power tools launched in early 2011. (http://www.swartstools.com.au/p/33-portable-universal-mitre-saw-stand--sw1001-)

[DaveTTC]

I have the dewalt stand. Looking at the link the leg machanism looks very similar and the dewalt works fine.

The doubel rail may provide extra stability and I like the roller supports.

Can you get extra midspan supports if you want them?

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

[DaveVman]

Mine lives in the shed so therefore no need for the stand.

I just wanted to comment on the pre-preping concept.
This saw comes standard with an excellent blade. I use this saw to cut off the factory cross cuts on DAR. The finish is so good that I basically don't need to sand the cuts left by this saw. I haven't compared it with a shooting board finish yet because I only have one crap plane at this stage but I will once I can afford a good plane. I even have made up a shooting board in anticipation. Yet I have my doubts the shooting board will be an improvement.

So you might think you are going to use it to pre-prep or approx cross cut. But I'm pretty confident you will end up using this saw to do final cuts.

However that does depend on correct setup and regular checking for complete accuracy. IMHO.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[digamma]

Just a quick update about my Swarts saw after using it for a few months. I'm very happy with it. After a few uses it seemed to go out of square. I emailed SWARTS and Sam called me back and talked me through adjusting the saw over the phone. He also gave me several other tips. Try getting service like that for a $300/$400 tool from anyone else. The problem was that the positive stops are not positive enough. Once I realised this was the issue I just had to adjust it to make sure 90 degrees really is 90 degrees. Now, even when I cut an angle and then move it back to square it cuts square. For example the other day I cut some mitres. Then last night I switched it back to square and cut some 240mm boards square - no problem at all. Apparently they plan to improve these stops in the future and also issue a retro kit for existing saws. I make a cut just outside my line and then work up to it to get a sub-mm perfect cut so I have only been using the laser to tell me very roughly where the blade is. In the manual is says the laser can not be adjusted. I talked to Samuel about this and he told me it can be adjusted and they should change the manual. I haven't got around to adjusting the laser yet because I don't rely on it but Sam has explained to me how to do it so I'll try this at some point when I get around to it because it would be handy to line things up faster. Incidentally I also bought a shop vac from Swarts and this has been running just fine also. I don't suppose you feel like posting instructions on how to adjust the laser and squareness? :-) I'd love to know how to adjust mine; just like you, mine has gone a bit out of whack too. I've just taken note of where the 'real' zero degrees is to cut square.

[SPF]

This has been a really informative thread, I found the saw on the timbecon website, and it has been great to see all of your comments about it.

Can anyone confirm whether this appears to be the same saw as sold by SIP in the UK: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sip-01504-12-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-240v-p74338

[DaveVman]

This has been a really informative thread, I found the saw on the timbecon website, and it has been great to see all of your comments about it.

Can anyone confirm whether this appears to be the same saw as sold by SIP in the UK: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sip-01504-12-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-240v-p74338Can't say for absolute certain. Looks the same but different colour. Except UK one doesn't mention a laser which the Swarts has. Odds are its the same. The big difference with the Swarts is the exceptional customer service you get from Sam.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[SPF]

Can't say for absolute certain. Looks the same but different colour. Except UK one doesn't mention a laser which the Swarts has. Odds are its the same. The big difference with the Swarts is the exceptional customer service you get from Sam.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thanks for responding DaveVman I'm not suggesting that anyone buy one from the UK, there is just so little information available about these saws, that anything that provides some extra insight is helpful.

[DaveTTC]

My understanding is Sam meets with the manufacturer and provides the specs of what he wants.

That may be built from some kind of base model? I imagine other people could likely use his as a base model and work up or down from the same manufacturer.

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

[Paulyboy1960]

Hi All,
I am in the market for an SCMS, and had not even considered the Swarts. I had been looking at the Makita 1018 and Metabo around the 450 mark but this unit threw a spanner in my thought-train. If the Swarts tools rep is on here I have a couple of questions
1. Does the unit come with a spare belt, and/or can a generic off-the-shelf be used? (I have visions of the belt breaking half way through a job and having to wait for one to be delivered to Adelaide)
2. Does it have extendable sides for longer work?
3. Is there a local supplier (Adelaide) where I can look, play, touch and just get a feel for it

Thanks, Paul

[DaveVman]

Hi All,
I am in the market for an SCMS, and had not even considered the Swarts. I had been looking at the Makita 1018 and Metabo around the 450 mark but this unit threw a spanner in my thought-train. If the Swarts tools rep is on here I have a couple of questions
1. Does the unit come with a spare belt, and/or can a generic off-the-shelf be used? (I have visions of the belt breaking half way through a job and having to wait for one to be delivered to Adelaide)
2. Does it have extendable sides for longer work?
3. Is there a local supplier (Adelaide) where I can look, play, touch and just get a feel for it

Thanks, PaulPaul, I suggest you go to their website and get their phone number. Give Sam a call and ask him directly.
You call their office during hours or you can even call Sam on his mobile after hours. Try doing that with another tool supplier.

Swarts Tools | An exciting new brand of semi-professional power tools launched in early 2011. (http://www.swartstools.com.au)

You can then tell us how it went.



Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[DaveTTC]

After sales service is generally very efficent from all I hear.
He has a warehouse in Sydney and too my knowledge you cant get a hands on feel at any other outlets.

From memory it has extendable sides.




DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

[DaveVman]

The sides extend and align with the table part.
There is also a stand available for it but I don't have that.
I don't know about hands on in Adelaide but forum members in Brisbane could talk with me.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[DaveVman]

The sides extend and align with the table part.
There is also a stand available for it but I don't have that.
I don't know about hands on in Adelaide but forum members in Brisbane could talk with me.

Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkThe sides are these black bars in the attached photo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170908/83f6522f3928a36582854005c29d7a3b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[skot]

Looks the same...difference is the British one only has a 40 tooth blade but the Swart saw is supplied with a 100 tooth blade

[SPF]

Paul, I suggest you go to their website and get their phone number. Give Sam a call and ask him directly.
You call their office during hours or you can even call Sam on his mobile after hours. Try doing that with another tool supplier.

Swarts Tools | An exciting new brand of semi-professional power tools launched in early 2011. (http://www.swartstools.com.au)

You can then tell us how it went.



Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I sent Sam a message using the enquiry form and he got back to me the next day- definitely worth your while.

[SPF]

The sides are these black bars in the attached photo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170908/83f6522f3928a36582854005c29d7a3b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Is that horizontal clamp as useful as it looks? The Metabo KGS254 has one too, and it works really well, but is a different style/design.

[DaveVman]

Is that horizontal clamp as useful as it looks? The Metabo KGS254 has one too, and it works really well, but is a different style/design.Yes it is useful and quick to set.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[matt_s]

In saying that we are gearing up to launch our newest model 255mm mitre saw in a few weeks which as you suggested has holes in the fence so you can fix a sacrificial. fence.

I guess this never happened? I'm really keen to be able to use a sacrificial fence. Can holes be drilled in the fence without shattering the casting?

[DaveVman]

I guess this never happened? I'm really keen to be able to use a sacrificial fence. Can holes be drilled in the fence without shattering the casting?There would only be one way to find out.

However the top half of the fence slides in a groove on the bottom half. So if I was doing it I would first try to replace the top part with my own creation. Probably I would ring up Samuel and ask for spare parts to drill out.


Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[DaveTTC]

I guess this never happened? I'm really keen to be able to use a sacrificial fence. Can holes be drilled in the fence without shattering the casting?From memory Samuel said it would be dinw to drill holes in fence. Feom experience I camr see an issue using a good bit.

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

[Possum2477]

This man gives the best warranty back up I think I have ever experienced. I had a bearing problem with a 305 Combo Saw and he replaced half the saw to make the process simple. No return transport worries. Anything else I need and want to buy in future will be from Swartz

[TERMALERT]

Hi good people.
I have a SCMS, stand & vacuum set. Never had a belt driven saw before. I know I can call Samuel but this would be best answered here to save too many phone calls. Can I get replacement belts from Swarts and , more importantly, can they be easily replaced.

[TERMALERT]

Got the kit and took it out for a spin.
First impression. 70MM X 35MM radiata pine behaved like Teak.
The cross cuts are clean but I think the supplied blade is ( sorry to use
the word ) crap. Knife through butter is the very last way I would describe
the cutting process.
Makes me wish I hadn't sold my 305mm Bosch years ago.
The multi purpose stand is sturdy but not built with this saw in mind.
Either that or the designer didn't have a clue.
The available usable width on the end roller is about 65mm and the rest of the roller
is there for show. The T piece holding the roller should be replaced with a right angle in
any future design revision.
It will suit my immediate purpose but I can't wait until I have the money for a real saw.

[DaveVman]

You must have something wrong with your blade or your setup.
Mine cuts Karri like butter and Karri is harder than Jarrah. Every through cut is a breeze and I can take off less than a mm to creep up to the cut because it is so clean and accurate and easy.
I have cut plenty of 70MM X 35MM radiata pine and a lot more than that. Cuts like it's nothing. Always has. I've had it for 15 months. Still sharp and easy.
If yours is not doing that then I suggest you don't use it any more until you work out what is wrong. It could be a safety issue.

What exactly do you mean that the blade is "crap"?

I did take care to adjust it to be square and I don't rely on the angle of the positive stops. However in terms of cutting, even out of the box the blade and power has always been marvellous.
What you are describing sounds like it is not even the same saw. In other words something is very wrong.

I don't have and don't need the stand so I can't comment about that.
I have a Swarts vac, which is good but it's the previous model not the new one so I can't comment on that either. Not that you mentioned the vac.

A Bosch slide 305mm is still 3 times the price of this saw. Not that there's anything particularly wrong with this Swarts saw.
I like the ease of doing compound bevels on the Bosch and I assume the positive stops are accurate. It's a nice saw I'm sure.

I think you need to give Samuel a call and work through these issues.

[bueller]

Yeah the comment on poor cut quality says something is off for me, I was very surprised with the quality of my blade. Have cut Jarrah, Sheoak and miles of Pine without a hint of trouble. Have you checked the blade is true and the tips on the teeth are all present?

[Cal]

My blade is great too! Have not cut a heap with it but what I have cut has been both hard timber and soft, thick slabs of 100mm and down to 2mm for the thin stuff. All good.

[TERMALERT]

Oh great. It sounds like I have a bad blade.
Yes something is very wrong when my neighbour's Ryobi 210mm
acts like a knife through butter compared to this new saw.
The saw blade was square both ways out of the box.
After performing around 1700 of the same cuts ( 300mm lengths
of 70mmX35mm radiata pine ) this year using other saws I know absolutely
that something is amiss.
Yes best contact Sam now that I know my blade is not the norm.
Just out of curiousity the model number of the blade is SW2092.
Is this the same as the blades on your saws ?
Maybe Sam changed suppliers.

[TERMALERT]

A possible big apology to Sam coming up.
All else being equal, will an 80 tooth blade cut 'faster' than a 100 tooth blade ?
I may have been comparing oranges to apples.

My muscle memory has most likely been based on years of fast cutting
with a Bosch 305mm which in all likelihood had 80T
My neighbour's Ryobi ( he's out right now ) is most likely a 40T.

[DaveTTC]

Yes tooth count will make a big difference.

Good to hear you got it sussed

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

[justonething]

will an 80 tooth blade cut 'faster' than a 100 tooth blade ?


Definitely, but 100 tooth blade gives a better finish.

[TERMALERT]

The reason for slow cutting was staring me in the face all along.
Official and unreserved apology to Sam at Swart Tools.
I was comparing apples to oranges and blaming you for it.

[TERMALERT]

Part of the instruction set 'seems' to indicate that the saw blade is reversed.
4. The arrow on the saw disc showing the rotation direction should coincide with the arrow on the saw ( tick ).
The saw blade teeth should direct downwards towards the front of machine ( ???? ).
My teeth are pointing towards the 'back', which seems correct.
I guess it a matter of English to Chinese translation.
432093

[Cal]

The blade is facing the correct way (direction of rotation) otherwise it would not cut the timber.

[Chesand]

Any more updates guys as I am looking at buying a SCMS?

[Cal]

No problem with mine, it has been great.

[OldGrain]

Two years with mine.Still got another 12months warranty.Happy chappy.

[DaveVman]

I could make a video of it if you like, now that it's been well used. Anything in particular you would like to see or get an opinion on?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Chesand]

Thanks for your responses.
Nothing in particular, Dave. Just curious if everyone was still happy with their saws.
I could have done with one for my current project but they are out of stock until mid August so have found another way round my problem.
They certainly appear to be best value for money in their price range considering width of cut etc.

[DaveVman]

I still haven't built a proper mitre station and dust shroud for mine but both things are on the list.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[TERMALERT]

It appears that dust extraction to a useless bag is par for the non-industrial course.
They should be scrapped and come with a simple dust shroud.
The vacuum supplied with the SWART combo is as useless as most as far as
dust collection goes. The only reason I haven't chucked it is because it 'may' have
a use one day for a liquid spill.
All whinging aside my saw & table are doing the trick.
Doing a lot of straight cuts of 70mmx35mm pine and like the near glass finish.
Getting a few corner imperfections at times on raising after the cut but maybe using the slide
might solve this.
At the price I am more than happy though.

[Cal]

It appears that dust extraction to a useless bag is par for the non-industrial course.
They should be scrapped and come with a simple dust shroud.
The vacuum supplied with the SWART combo is as useless as most as far as
dust collection goes. The only reason I haven't chucked it is because it 'may' have
a use one day for a liquid spill.
All whinging aside my saw & table are doing the trick.
Doing a lot of straight cuts of 70mmx35mm pine and like the near glass finish.
Getting a few corner imperfections at times on raising after the cut but maybe using the slide
might solve this.
At the price I am more than happy though.

One thing that I did with my vac port was to pull it off and cut out the mass of plastic blocking the port. There are two bars that go across the port, get rid of them! I have mine hooked up to the dust extractor and don’t have any problems with it now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180708/576bd9cc3eb7a5e51aecebd0dcec33c8.jpg
Not my prettiest woodwork but it works!

[TERMALERT]

Brilliant Cal.
Now just do the same thing in thin wall hinged plastic that folds flat
for posting and SAVE THE WORLD !!
Not kidding.

[DaveVman]

So I finally got around to making a video of the SWARTS 305mm SCMS.
I review the saw and give my honest views on the pros and cons as I see them.

Follow the link to see it on YouTube:

https://youtu.be/sJaobsjkg-M

A warning that the video is 20 minutes long (including a blooper at the end) so feel free to skip through it. Hopefully it will help anyone out there considering one of these saws.
I talk about the bevel cuts, the mitre cuts, the depth stop, the clamps, the laser and dust collection. Including the some of the adjustments to get it dialed in.
I cut something about the 16:40 mark.
I give a summary about the 18:14 mark.
Feel free to add your views in the comments.

[DaveTTC]

Nice review


Dave TTC
The Turning Cowboy

Turning Wood Into Art

[Welshy]

Swarts vs AEG SCMS

Hi DaveVman (and anyone else), was wondering if you're familiar with the AEG 10" saw at Bunnings - and if you any thoughts comparing it to the 12" Swarts? Am having a hard time deciding.

Same price.
AEG has 6yr warranty.
Reviews say the AEG built-in dust extraction is pretty good - captures most of it.
But AEG is only 10" and it isn't as compact.
And it's only single bevel.

The most important factor to me is cut accuracy at all angles. Reliability comes a close second priority.

Just seeking thoughts on these two models only please.

Cheers,
Welshy.

[DaveTTC]

For me I would want compound litres in both directions. Also I use a 12".

Remove those two factors and I'd likely lean towards AEG. The AEG is more likely to have positive locks at 90 degrees etc. Last I tried a Swartz it needed to be locked with the screw lock at the desired angles.

As for accuracy you should be able to calibrate them both the same if they are Not good enough out of the box

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

[DaveVman]

I assume that you watched my video review of the SWARTS. I haven't owned or used the AEG so I don't feel qualified to make a real comparison.
It might depend what you are going to use it for. Mine is mostly for woodwork rather than carpentry work so the SWARTS had various advantages for me.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Arron]

Just skim-read through this thread.

Has anyone else noticed the high number of posts from ‘members’ who join, make one post almost immediately, then never make another post or be heard from again. Second only is the number of members who only ever make two posts, but both in this thread. Here’s some I noticed:

Diddums Post #9
Bass buddy. #13
Djbarrie. #25
Lee1952. #38
Dentree. #39 and #43
Foodpre. #42
Gabstarr. #47
Yaengunp. #92
Custom-chippy #96
Possum2477. #121
Welshy. #145

Odd that they don’t stick around such an excellent forum. Never mind, at least they all love Swartz tools and take the time to tell us how wonderful they are.

Cheers
Arron

[DaveVman]

Just skim-read through this thread.

Has anyone else noticed the high number of posts from ‘members’ who join, make one post almost immediately, then never make another post or be heard from again. Second only is the number of members who only ever make two posts, but both in this thread.
[snip]

Odd that they don’t stick around such an excellent forum. Never mind, at least they all love Swartz tools and take the time to tell us how wonderful they are.

Cheers
Arron

I wouldn't read too much into that. I suspect it is just that it's mostly males (often not overly talkative) and mostly 2 generations who grew up without social media (and see no reason to tell the world their every thought and deed). Plus something like a tool selection can be very individual when you have so many options like we do with SCMS. So they just join when they feel they have something to share. Most of the members across the whole fourm only read stuff.
That's my guess anyway.

[Welshy]

Yep I agree. Just joined now as a member to be able to post a question.

At this stage of my hobby (starting out), I'm more about reading and listening, rather than having anything to contribute/post. Have come to this forum for years - just never joined.

Chances are you won't see a post from me for ages. When I do, it'll probably be because I'll see something I can answer. Not likely anytime soon given my current experience. (I am active in other forums, totally off woodworking, where I have experience to share.)

Anyway, to the Dave's, very much appreciate the replies to my earlier question. And the review video was excellent! It'd be in Swarts interest if they posted some good demo videos of their gear to their site/YouTube.

Cheers,
Welshy

[Cal]

I’m still a huge fan of this saw, I just don’t put much thought into raving about it as I think that people can make up their own mind on what they want to buy, and life is to short to argue about that. Here is a pic of piece of a limb I cut for my partner, I’m happy with the cut straight off the saw with no extra work sanding. It has a clear spray lacquer over it, that’s it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181228/9abc56dde3c98028a7dd8e4bb0e42d87.jpg
Most of my posts now are in the musical instruments section of the forum [emoji1]

[Kbeitz]

I went out today and bought a DWS779.
I was searching for saw talk and found this post.
I read it from end to end. I was surprised that untill
today that I never heard of a Swarts saw.

[deckell]

dentree, i was wondering how your saw is going after more time and further use. as my saw has died and i am looking to purchase a new one any advice would be greatly appreciated.deckell.

[DaveVman]

Mine is still going great with the original blade. As Cal said the cuts are excellent.
I assume you watched my video review here:

https://youtu.be/sJaobsjkg-M

In there I point out the pros and cons that I see.
That was after using it for at least a year. After another year, still the same.
The only failure I can anticipate is the fitting for the vacuum hose is not designed for the heavy tube I have put on it. I might make a new one if it ever actually fails but to be honest I live in hope that I will have fitted a proper dust shroud by then.
I still haven't built a proper station for this saw but eventually I'll do that in my usual glacial fashion.

Of course you should do your own research to see if prices have changed much. However I'd definitely recommend this SWARTS saw.

[deckell]

Mine is still going great with the original blade. As Cal said the cuts are excellent.
I assume you watched my video review here:

https://youtu.be/sJaobsjkg-M

In there I point out the pros and cons that I see.
That was after using it for at least a year. After another year, still the same.
The only failure I can anticipate is the fitting for the vacuum hose is not designed for the heavy tube I have put on it. I might make a new one if it ever actually fails but to be honest I live in hope that I will have fitted a proper dust shroud by then.
I still haven't built a proper station for this saw but eventually I'll do that in my usual glacial fashion.

Of course you should do your own research to see if prices have changed much. However I'd definitely recommend this SWARTS saw.DaveVman thank you for your very informative illustration, i have been in contact with the swarts company today asking a few questions and they were very help full. after hearing your experience with this saw i think i will go ahead and purchase same.thanks again. deckell. PS i like your little mr xxxx.

[minidriver]

how do you guys go with mitre setup accuracy on the table? I found mine had 0.5 to 1 degree of play. I inserted a washer in the pivot bolt of the indent locating arm, which took up most of the slack. The fitment of the arm in the indents isn't great either.. it's just 'kinda in the vicinity of n degrees". Not really checked other saws to compare, I think the makita I checked at total tools was much more positive in its location. Not sure which model it was.. could even have been a dewalt. was around 6 months ago so yeh.

Or do you just measure the angle each setup rather than relying on the indents?


Mine is still going great with the original blade. As Cal said the cuts are excellent.
I assume you watched my video review here:

https://youtu.be/sJaobsjkg-M


Ah I see your saw is the same as mine, I didn't get a bad one! Thanks for the review.

[deckell]

I have taken the decision and ordered the saw from swarts today, i have not put it to the minister for war and finance yet but we will worry about that exercise when the saw arrives. thanks for all your information,best regards. deckell

[DaveVman]

Yes I go over all that in my video. The one real flaw/deficiency in this saw is that the positive stops are not all that positive. You can adjust it to be very accurate on the scale but you can't fully rely on the stops.
You should not have any play once you tighten it in place. That is not the issue. The issue is that the stops will only take you to the vicinity of 90, 45, 30, etc degrees. Good enough for DIY but not for woodwork. You need to adjust the gauge so that you can then rely on the scale, not the stops. So move to the stop. Check the scale carefully to fine tune. Then tighten.
If I ever get enough time, I'll do a follow up video on this specific aspect and put another link in here. But it may be many months before I get to that.


Although the BOSCH 2000W 305MM gliding Compound Mitre Saw and the Makita 305mm 1800 Watt Slide Compound Mitre Saw are 3 times the price, it would be good to know for interest sake how accurate the stops are on those saws. And if they are 0.5 degree accurate, what mechanism they use to achieve it. Please let me know if you have one of those.

[Cal]

I have just been cleaning up my shed for a forum get together and as I was cleaning up the mitre saw I noticed the slides have surface rust on them. The shed is water tight and nothing else is rusty, cast iron tops on bandsaw and belt sander are fine. The saw also has a dust shroud over it, so I’m a bit concerned about the quality of the slides now.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190601/a31dc9aa2b385893c75e97468eb56acf.jpg

[deckell]

Well my swarts saw has arrived in very quick time, every thing seems to be as sam said. i have one problem i cannot get the blade to fence square. on closer inspection the fence does not appear to be straight it looks like it has a slight kink in it and no matter how I try to adjust the fence I still have the same result, has any other swarts owner encounted this problem. any advice would be appreciated. thanks in anticipation.Deckell

[TP1]

I have just been cleaning up my shed for a forum get together and as I was cleaning up the mitre saw I noticed the slides have surface rust on them. The shed is water tight and nothing else is rusty, cast iron tops on bandsaw and belt sander are fine. The saw also has a dust shroud over it, so I’m a bit concerned about the quality of the slides now.



Water tight sheds don't discourage surface rust unless they are fully lined and sealed. I have experienced surface rust on Festool gear stored in a systainer in a shed but not in a lined workshop. I would suggest always using something like this to prevent rust happening again to the machinery.

455803

[Beardy]

The slides on both my Makita saws develop a bit of surface rust as well, I would not be concerned it is an indication of poor quality

[Cal]

Thanks guys, the shed is lined and insulated fwiw, I failed to mention that, sorry. That is why I find it a little odd, and nothing else is rusty. I will give the slides a clean up with some well used scotchbrite and give them a lashing of wd40 or similar on a regular basis. :)

[Midnight Man]

I have just been cleaning up my shed for a forum get together and as I was cleaning up the mitre saw I noticed the slides have surface rust on them. The shed is water tight and nothing else is rusty, cast iron tops on bandsaw and belt sander are fine. The saw also has a dust shroud over it, so I’m a bit concerned about the quality of the slides now.

As a question, is your cover made from a watertight material (e.g. PVC sheet)? If so, this may actually trap moisture underneath it and promote rust.

I tend to use cotton sheets as covers for machinery - this prevents stuff falling on the metal surface, which may act as a moisture attraction. Give any metal parts a shot with some Camellia oil (or similar, woodwork safe rust retardant) and cover with breathable cover.

[TP1]

Thanks guys, the shed is lined and insulated fwiw, I failed to mention that, sorry. That is why I find it a little odd, and nothing else is rusty. I will give the slides a clean up with some well used scotchbrite and give them a lashing of wd40 or similar on a regular basis. :)

WD40 doesn't protect anything. Its water based. It has good solvent properties and can lubricate for a short while but useless for anything lasting.

[DaveVman]

WD40 doesn't protect anything. Its water based. It has good solvent properties and can lubricate for a short while but useless for anything lasting.Yes I agree. Use WD40 to clean after your anti rust treatment but you need something like Lanotec to protect it from moisture.

Same thing happened to my SWARTS saw when I left dust on it. I take more care to keep it clean and give a quick spray with Lanotec. Silverglide is another option.

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[DaveVman]

Well my swarts saw has arrived in very quick time, every thing seems to be as sam said. i have one problem i cannot get the blade to fence square. on closer inspection the fence does not appear to be straight it looks like it has a slight kink in it and no matter how I try to adjust the fence I still have the same result, has any other swarts owner encounted this problem. any advice would be appreciated. thanks in anticipation.Deckell

I had a similar issue and rang Sam. He led me through adjusting it over the phone. So try that. He is super helpful.


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[Cal]

As a question, is your cover made from a watertight material (e.g. PVC sheet)? If so, this may actually trap moisture underneath it and promote rust.

I tend to use cotton sheets as covers for machinery - this prevents stuff falling on the metal surface, which may act as a moisture attraction. Give any metal parts a shot with some Camellia oil (or similar, woodwork safe rust retardant) and cover with breathable cover.

I should have explained that it is my dust extraction hood, made of mdf if you scroll up to post #141 you will see the picture of it there. I don’t cover it up with anything else. I will try to find some Camellia oil, where would I purchase it from?
It could well be that there has been saw dust on the slides that has caused the rust, I do cut green or near green timber from time to time and not turn the extraction on (naughty I know) or even dry timber would do it too. I guess it wouldn’t take much?
Cheers Cal

[Midnight Man]

I will try to find some Camellia oil, where would I purchase it from?

For this application, you don't actually need Camellia oil - any rust deterrent will do, as you won't have timber coming into contact with the deterrent there.

I just happen to like Camellia oil because it won't cause issues if you get some on timber if it's on (say) a table saw surface.

Available in a few places, probably the easiest is here: https://www.carbatec.com.au/handtools-and-handplanes/accessories/oils/camellia-oil-240mm-bottle

[Cal]

Thank you, much appreciated :)

[deckell]

Thanks davevman I will do that best regards.Derrick (deckell)

[bowman94]

Does anyone know if this saw has been discontinued?

I can't find one anywhere and swarts haven't responded to the question through their website contact form

[Chesand]

Does anyone know if this saw has been discontinued?

I can't find one anywhere and swarts haven't responded to the question through their website contact form

Timbecon used to have them but don't know whether they still do. Check their web-site

[Cal]

They still have an eBay page but no saw on it at the moment, you could try sending a message via eBay.

[Rick47]

I was looking at these about 18 months ago at their 7hills warehouse, was told they were discontinuing them as it took to much time to set them up for sale (needed a lot of adjusting) and they were going to discontinue woodworking tools and concentrate on metal working machines. I didn't go ahead and buy one.