Advice needed for some new projects

[Horsecroft88]

Hi all, I mentioned on another thread (Lawry's one re his old english oak desk restoration) that I had some further projects I will be tackling in the near future, and Lawry suggested that I show some pictures of what I was talking about.

First off is a Mahogany side table, that belongs to my other half. It essentially needs the top to be stripped back and re French Polished. No dramas for me there, but just a couple of points, firstly the top does have a crack running much of the length of it. I am kind of figuring either (a) to leave it be or (b) does anyone have a practical suggestion what to do with this. I havn't investigated yet whether or not I could unscrew the top and if so, then sash clamps and a strong wood glue might do the trick. Any suggestions on what sort of glue to use if this is possible. I also need to repair the low back on the back end of the table which has come loose where it attaches to the table top. I think it has split here. Again I was thinking of glue and perhaps some carefully placed/hidden pins to strengthen the repair.

The other thing and I think this might be out of my league is how to or even whether or not to attempt to repair the legs. It would appear that some PO cut the legs down. I am assuming the legs were showing signs of wear and to even it up, that this was considered the easiest thing to do.

I can't wood turn and don't have access to such equipment but if I might be able to get a joiner/furniture repairer to perhaps to run up some leg bottoms, which I could attach to the legs. Would I be correct in thinking I would need to do this by dowl and glue and then simply re-polish the lower legs ?

The next project is a mahogany drop leaf square side table on splayed legs. Again largely a re-polishing project, but again and hopefully the pictures I have show this, but one of the splayed legs has broken and rather than repairing the leg properly the PO screwed some metal plates onto the break to hold it together, unfortunately it doesn't work and I am going to have to do something to repair this properly. Any suggestions to how to do this would be appreciated.

The last project I think I would like to tackle is some minor repairs to my father's mahogany Secretaire. A cat that he used to have has very badly scratched the side and front of the lower frame (on the LHS). The scratches are quite deep, (1-3mm), and simply trying to sand these out and re-polish thereafter I don't think is appropriate.

I had thought that another method could be to cut out the affected section (very carefully) and replace with a slim fillet of mahogany cut to size and re-polish. While I suspect this probably is the best way, given the value of this piece (reputedly over $20K) I am loathe to try this, as it is out of my experience level. The other option I had thought was to try to fill with an appropriate wood putty, sand back, re-colour with stain/french polish and wax finish. Getting the colour right though might be really tricky. At least one of the drawer fronts also has a lot of surface scratching from said cat, and even this I am concerned about trying to repair. I would hate to stuff it up for him.

(Sorry re this but the photos of the secretaire are on their side, couldn't figure out how to rotate).

Will be interested in any feedback anyone can give.

[Horsecroft88]

A photo of the damage to the Secretaire.

[Horsecroft88]

One more photo of the Secretaire. Dad also in his attempts to cover up the damage at one time had put some sort of tape over it, but when removed this has resulted in a little localised damage to the polish on the LHS of the base piece. I really love this piece and would love to see it repaired. If to do this correctly is out of my experience level, I will recommend that he get it taken to a antique furniture repair expert, and perhaps this might be the best option.

[Chief012]

Unfortunately I can't offer any suggestions other than I hope you bill the cat for the repair bill!

It's a very nice secretaire :)

[Horsecroft88]

Heh heh, yes that would be an interesting thing to try out, but regrettably (or possibly not for my parents), the said cat has long since departed this mortal world. For sure, it is an impressive piece. My parents bought a whole range of mahogany and cedar antiques back in the early '60s for a few 100 quid at most, when back then they were virtually worthless.

Not a problem, am just hoping one of the well experienced people here on the forum might have a few ideas.

I guess I will first off sort out my other half's tables and then figure out what to do with the Secretaire, even if it means I don't actually do anything, beyond recommending getting it repaired by a well experienced antique furniture restorer. I know what I can do, my limitations, but somethings are probably beyond my current skill/experience level.

[Chief012]

I am working on a time machine between furniture projects,..I have the process down pat, however making one big enough to bring back all the furniture is proving to be the real challenge! :)

Look forward to seeing how things progress,...

[Lawry01]

Hello Sensai HC.....great to now see you have some projects, so I dont take up so much airtime on here!! (try stopping me!!) I love the 3 pieces you want to work on, and whilst cannot be of advisory assistance, will offer plenty of encouragement and moral support!

Couple of things though....the secretaire...and its value! Hmm...is the estimated value for its current state or restored value? If current, and your intention is to keep it, rather than onsell, maybe doing the great work that you already know is well within your capability is enough, rather than risk damage. The cat scratches seem to me to be akin to the PO (what IS a PO??) I bought my desk from sanding against the grain. With your advice, I have reduced this catastrophe a little, and now will put it donw to patina & character! (sound familiar?) Maybe theres a bit of wisdom there! Anyway..some food for thought.
I also wonder if there are any other forumn members who may be able to help with the wood turning you may need? I'm sure if yes, they would offer some assistance, as you have done so geneously to many others!!
Love your other 2 table projects, and will watch with anticipation as I have bought a real cheap n nasty table ($10) to do some practice on, and the top looks in similar condition to yours! More on that another day....desk first.

So, Sensai HC...I'm looking forward to reading and seeing steps and work in progress here.
Cheers, Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Grasshopper Lawry, thanks for all your encouragement, and yes I know what you mean. Re the est value, I am only going on what my dad told me was advised by an antique valued many years ago. In truth would it go for that $ figure, who knows, probably not. But regardless it would be worth something. The valuation was given prior to the cats enhancements. You might be right some one might be prepared to help re turning some leg bases, anyone ?? Anyway, I think I will start on the top, as it should be relatively straightforward. Repolishing will be not an issue for me. PO means previous owner. Re the scratching I suspect you are right, just need to bite the bullet on that one. Will do some thinking re this plus might look at some re colour trials so can sort out the secretaries. For sure the patina on this piece is grt. Will keep you all posted as I work on these projects. Ditto mate look forward to seeing both desk being finished plus your other projects.
:2tsup:

[pmcgee]

It essentially needs the top to be stripped back and re French Polished. No dramas for me there, but just a couple of points, firstly the top does have a crack running much of the length of it. I am kind of figuring either (a) to leave it be or (b) does anyone have a practical suggestion what to do with this. I havn't investigated yet whether or not I could unscrew the top and if so, then sash clamps and a strong wood glue might do the trick. Any suggestions on what sort of glue to use if this is possible.




Hi HC ...
This is only suggestion ... NOT the voice of experience ... so ... :shrug:

I'm not sure I can see the crack, but eg PVA glue can be thinned with water and then sucked into the crack with a vacuum underneath. Not that I am sure that PVA is the glue to use here ... no doubt other glues can be thinned ... and maybe one that isn't water-soluble might have some sort of advantage?

Re the curved leg - I can't tell how it attaches at the top of the curve. Does it form a tenon just above the metal plate? or make a vertical sliding dovetail?
I think now I can see a break at the top there ... but why the lower plate?

Cheers,
Paul.

[Grandad-5]

Re the est value, I am only going on what my dad told me was advised by an antique valued many years ago. In truth would it go for that $ figure, who knows, probably not.

I only have access to a very small part of the antique trade here in Bendigo so what I'm seeing here may not be comparable with where you are but what I'm seeing is that all but the finest pieces are not bringing any kind of money what-so-ever in comparison to years past.

As an example, I wanted a Jacobean revival lounge suite many years ago (10 yrs?) and couldn't find anything halfway decent for less than $3000. There's a perfectly good 3 piece set at our local auction that nobody is interested in at $250 reserve.

There was a very nice 4 piece 1920's Blackwood extending dining table that has been at the auctions for several months with a reserve of $500 .It was a much better setting than one I sold 15 yrs ago for $1500. The vendor kept dropping his reserve until last Weds when I bought it for $300. Nothing to do to it. Just moved it into my dining room and set it for use.

Some antiques certainly don't appear to be holding any value at all compared to not that long ago.

Cheers
Jim

[Lawry01]

[QUOTE=Grandad-5;1497943]I only have access to a very small part of the antique trade here in Bendigo so what I'm seeing here may not be comparable with where you are but what I'm seeing is that all but the finest pieces are not bringing any kind of money what-so-ever in comparison to years past.

Jim, I tend to agree, and I wonder if its simply a sign of the economic times. I've been doing 'the rounds' of the various antique centres on Brisbane's Antique Trail, and have found (other than in the pricey suburbs, where the demographics disposable income is at its highest) prices exceptionally negotiable, and relatively low. In some cases, smaller items are able to be bargained to around 1/3 of asking price. I picked up a beautiful little leather inlayed restored hall table a few weeks ago for $100, one I figure years back would easily have brought $300+ etc. The higher end of the market is of course even further economically compromised.
So...for any of us who are thinking of making our fortunes with resotring antiques, I figure we need to be in restore and hoarde mode until things pick up..then set up a shop!!! :roll: Lawry

[Grandad-5]

So...for any of us who are thinking of making our fortunes with restoring antiques, I figure we need to be in restore and hoarde mode until things pick up..then set up a shop!!!

Hi Lawry,
I know full well that the majority may disagree but I can't help but think that the buying and restoring of antiques should only be approached on the basis of what the individual loves. Not with an eye to making money.
I know in my own case, I look for things in some pieces that will mean the dealers won't be interested in it. This will mean I might be able to pick it up for what I can afford. I must still love the piece. A high value item merely means I can't own it.

Horsecroft...you have a couple of very nice pieces there. The secretaire is particularly beautiful IMHO. I'm merely suggesting that value shouldn't enter into what we buy or restore, but rather what makes us feel good everytime we look at it.
Whether that secretaire is worth 20k or $20, lavish the same care and attention to it.If your eye is drawn to it every time you enter the room, it is worthy of whatever has to be done to bring it back.

That's my 2 bob's worth anything, which probably accurately portrays the true value of my opinion as well. :)

Cheers
Jim

[Lawry01]

Hi Lawry,
I know full well that the majority may disagree but I can't help but think that the buying and restoring of antiques should only be approached on the basis of what the individual loves. Not with an eye to making money.
I know in my own case, I look for things in some pieces that will mean the dealers won't be interested in it. This will mean I might be able to pick it up for what I can afford. I must still love the piece. A high value item merely means I can't own it.

Horsecroft...you have a couple of very nice pieces there. The secretaire is particularly beautiful IMHO. I'm merely suggesting that value shouldn't enter into what we buy or restore, but rather what makes us feel good everytime we look at it.
Whether that secretaire is worth 20k or $20, lavish the same care and attention to it.If your eye is drawn to it every time you enter the room, it is worthy of whatever has to be done to bring it back.

That's my 2 bob's worth anything, which probably accurately portrays the true value of my opinion as well. :)

Cheers
Jim

Jim, I agree 100% with you..I was being a little tongue & cheek with my comments!!! I have a few pieces in my home that my wife & I absolutely get pleasure from looking at, using etc., and I want to keep it that way! Reading between the lines of my point however, I was implying that there may well be some bargains to be had. I've recently ben re-kitting my home office, from a messy, modern look, that I really didnt enjoy being in, to what hopefully will become a charming, old world library/ study/ smoking room feel. As such, I've been sourcing appropriate old & antique pieces to match, and all within a tight budget. I've ben able to source a beautiful set of Grandpa & gradnma chairs + matching chaise, a desk (well...2 in fact!) one of which the guys here have ben guiding me through restoring, etc., silkyoak bookcase, and table (happy to post pics of these at a late date, as some will want a little bit of tlc basic restoring of the finish.) My expereience in doing all this was that prices are low, if youre prepred to have fun with bargaining! I've seen many items similar to those I've sourced with a bit of hard work at 2, 3 & 4 x the prices in antique centres.
So, I'm all for the ambience created by the furtiture that becomes par of our lives, and thats why I've so thoroughly enjoyed being able to do some work on some of these peieces. As HC , WW & a few other know, I've caught the addiction! Cheers, Lawry:)

[Grandad-5]

I'm subscribed to your desk restore thread Lawry. You're doing a great job.
Out of interest, it was WW that I first heard say that everything in your room should bring you pleasure when you look at. I've paid more attention to that factor ever since.

I LOVE the old English library or Mens Club look. Leather wing-back chairs and lots of dark timbers.

Anyway...I think maybe we've hi-jacked Horsecrofts thread enough. I'll back on out of here now and let others help him restore his pieces. Something I'm not able to do.

Jim

[Horsecroft88]

Hey guys, many thanks for all the excellent feedback and I will try to give meaniful replys to all as I really appreciate feedback. Oh BTW, as far as I am concerned thread hijacking is perfectly fine by me :D. It is all good, and a great way of sharing experiences.

Ok, so in respect of the advice from Paul, thanks mate yes makes good sense re the injection/suction of glue into the crack. I have been giving this all a little thought and had a chat with a mate here at work. In the first instance, while the crack runs mostly the length of the table top it is not too bad, say probably at its worse about 1-1.5mm gap. I checked under the table and yes it is screwed to the frame, so will investigate and see if I can remove it for the repairs. In talking with my mate, and as I think we all agree Aquadere has its uses but not for furniture repairs such as this. My mate apparently has some extra strong woodworking glues, plus sash clamps so I reckon I can sort this all out pretty easily.

The other problem will be the bottom of the legs and I might need to put this on the back burner while I sort out the rest of it.

Re the table with the three splayed legs, I am pretty sure the break in the leg is close to the top where it meets the table centre pole. Do the legs fit into this by a tongue and grove method, I suspect most likely. So if so, perhaps the key will be to remove the metal plates, and glue, perhaps with a biscuit inserted into the leg and even if necessary a screw/plugged over and then re-polished properly. I really won't know the solution to this one until I start investigating.

Now as far as my dad's secretaire goes, in the first instance I totally agree, it should never be about nor is about the financial value of such a piece. Afterall they are not for sale but rather use and enjoyment and eventually my parents antiques will be passed on down to us, their children, as we too mostly love and have antiques in our homes. My collection is somewhat sizeable and I have over the years been upgrading in quality. I mostly collect cedar, but am attracted to other woods depending on the style.

I agree, I am sure I can do the necessary repairs, I just need to figure out the least invasive way of making it better. That is all, for I would hate to damage it in trying to repair it, that is really my only concern.

Now I can't talk of what is going on, on the mainland but I can talk of per here in Tassie. I have been collecting, restoring and even occasionally selling or restoring antiques on commission for others over the past 20 years, so have a little experience.

The one thing I can tell you though is that down here prices are extremely strong for the best quality pieces be they colonial (and I truely mean that in terms of pre 1840s) as well as old English or European furniture. I only recently visited a dealer in Richmond on the outskirts of Hobart and the guys running that shop seriously didn't have anything for sale under $2K. Even a really small and delicate cedar wine table was listed at $2.5K. Their top pieces easily being for sale between $10-30K, and I mean things such as magnificant cedar chest of drawers, early colonial cedar desks, Birds eye Huon Pine wardrobes etc.

The same thing is true for the specialist antiques auctions down here, (both Hobart and Launceston), with some huge prices being reached.

What you have to remember is that in Tassie, we are the treasure trove for colonial furniture given that Tassie is the oldest state after NSW, and while over the years much of best furniture, paintings etc have been sold off to the mainland, there is still plenty down here. You only have to look at what is in some of the large mansions and old towns that abound around parts of the State.

The Hobart museum has two such collections, including an amazing huon pine collection which they paid to the previous owner the best part of $750K as well as an extremely fine and early cedar double ender couch which was in appalling condition as came out of a barn and fetched for its previous owner a very healthy $350K !! I am not kidding.

Myself, I have an early and huge fiddleback with cross banded cedar 6 drawer 1830s chest of drawers. I paid $2.5K to a dealer friend of mine, he let me have it at bargain price. It needs a little work but his advice to me was that its true value would be close to $4K once tidied up. But as I said, I love the pieces regardless of cost, it is all about the beauty of the grain and colour of the timber, the design, the tactile/practical pleasure I get from them, let alone the simple knowledge that I am a custodian of such pieces.

I will keep you all posted as I get on with the projects at hand.

[Lawry01]

HC..fascinating reading the above.....and I guess it is the high end that would keep high prices! I have, however, been amazed here in Brisvegas that very similar pieces, and in similar condition, can vary in price so much from suburb to suburb...and I mean by $'000's!. (and yes, I know, that unIess one is expereienced, what can look similar may in fact be quite different, and therefore, valued accordingly..but I'm not so sure!) have actually wanted to go the next step and experience a few antique auctions here in Brisbane, so now will be on the lookout!
Looking forward to your progress with the tables & secretaire! Tomorrow is now my wax off wax on day......ubeaut trad wax in hand! Now to the red wine!! Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hey Lawry, for sure I know what you mean, and yes the shop I mentioned and prices are up there. Of you shop around you can do better. Having said that though we do have many expensive antique shops down here. I know as I have trawlers sonny over the years. The other thing too is that many of the dealers are importing container loads of English and european antiques and despite the antiquity of them with pieces dating back to the 15th and 16thC, while so much is being imported it doesn't seem to be reflected by lower prices. The impact on early Aus pieces if anything seems to be making them more expensive. Auctions can be a good option, but you really need to do your homework. I have bought well at auction, but also sold pieces at auction and got bugger all. People are after all looking for bargains. A bit like on eBay, and yes I have also bought antiques on eBay. But you do need to be careful. I will post some pics re this, and yes I have also been dudded on eBay. Enjoy wax on wax off day. Glass of red is at hand and being enjoyed. Will make a start on projects very shortly. Will post progress reports-photos.

[Horsecroft88]

Queens birthday holiday. So I thought I would make a start on the table with the broken leg. I will post pictures tomorrow. So after managing to unscrew the myriad of rusty screws and taking off each of the 4 plates holding the leg together, what I found was that in fact the leg is broken in two places, and as suspected the leg joint to the main shaft is a mortise and tenon joint. That is the bad news, but not surprising, as one of the other legs has been repaired in the past. So the question I need to sort out for myself is how to repair the breaks. Looking at the section which has the tenon and the first section of the leg, I M thinking what I need to do is glue this back together as it is all pretty tight within the mortise. If needs I could always pin or put a screw in, from underneath and putty the hole. After all I am going to have to putty up all the other screw holes, as well completely strip and re shellac the whole table. The second break is pretty clean and perhaps rather than inserting a biscuit, I might be better off inserting one or two dowels, plus glue and if necessary pin/screw from below. More on this later. As if I don't need any more projects, I just acquired a pretty impressive kauri pine kitchen dressed top. It will require paint stripping and shellac finish. So plenty to keep me going for the time being. Time for coffee and have a look at the start of stripping off the old tired polish on the table.

[Horsecroft88]

See below the photos that I took yesterday of the broken leg (2 breaks), the countless holes that will need to be filled etc. I took the photos with my Iphone and emailed them to my work, but for some reason they seem to be around the wrong may around. I also took photos of the dresser top, but to see them, you will need to crook your head, or tilt your computer to see them the correct way. Undoubtedly there is a way to do this correctly.

[pmcgee]

Hi.
If you look at the photos on your hard-disk, you can re-orient them there.
Then when they upload they will retain the orientation.
(for PCs anyway)
Cheers,
Paul.

[Lawry01]

HC..was beginning to wonder what happened to you....thought I'd give you till the long-weekend to see your progress..so, just in the nick of time. Been missing these sortees!!

I'm keen to see your progress with the leg break (and of course the other projects) as I noticed some breaks on the back rest carvings on one of a pairof old chippenale style bedroom chairs we have - definitely one job I'll be seeking my sesnais' wisdom on!

The dresser looks like it will be a fun little restore job, and no doubt will come up a treat!

Re your pics..Paul is on track..depending on what software you have, you should have something to edit any photos quite easily. I'm on microsoft office 2007, and I use Picture Manager. See how you go..you can resize, crop, rotate, etc.

Glad to see you back! lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Paul and Lawry, many thanks for the advice re sorting out the posting of my photos. It only seems to be a problem when loading photos taken with the iphone, not the digi camera.

Yes I know what you mean Lawry, I had been meaning to make a start on my next lot of projects but things kept getting in the way of starting. At least now I have made a start. I need to gather up my tools and materials, to make a real start on this, but I left them out at the country property, what a dill I was, so will bring these home on the weekend.

I will head up to the hardware store to grab some dowels as I think this will be the best way to sort out the two sections of the broken leg. I have the glue here at work (lent by a mate of mine, one being Anchor Weld adhesive for timber and particle board, while the other Sellys Super Durable, Durabond, strong and waterproof woodworking glue). I have no idea which glue perhaps is the best, but according to my mate both are excellent and far better than normal PVA.

I will fix the first part of the leg tonight, glueing, clamping and thereafter see whether or not I need to screw/pin the leg. Putting a screw in sounds like it might be stronger, albeit in a way I really don't want to go down this route.

As you would have seen the leg is a little like swiss cheese with so many holes in it. I will fix both breaks first, and putty up the holes before stripping the old finish off the table, as I know I will need to do a little light sanding, before starting the shellacing process. Once I get going the process should happen pretty rapidly, unlike the dresser top which is going to be a pain having to burn off all the paint, cleaning up the muck with paint stripper etc. Luckily I am somewhat used to all that.

Will keep updating the thread with comment and pictures as I can. Thanks for the interest and have "fun" with those chairs of yours, when you feel ready to start.

[Horsecroft88]

Just a quick update, do I re-glued and positioned the top part of the leg back in the mortice joint and have a clamp holding it in place. Then I thought I might try sanding back the bottom part of the leg using worn 220 grade and finished off with 400. Then I wiped off dust with a damp rag. Once dry, I put a few costs of shellac, now having a cuppa. Will pt on a few more coats before heading off to slumbers. Now the issue here is that some times this approach won't work as you can get a reaction between the old-dry shellac and the new shellac. If this happens then there is no other option but to properly strip off the old shellac. The other thing I am happy with is that the brass end cap and little castor wheel looks like they will cleanup ok. Nice original feature. I know the colour will be lighter than how the table looks now, but that is ok, as the current finish is tired/gone off. Will try posting some pics tomorrow, and hopefully correctly orientated.

[Horsecroft88]

As mentioned in last nights quick update, here are the next lot of photos, the first ones are after I had sanded the leg back (lightly) so as not to loose any of the bumps, dents, and darker colours that have penetrated the wood grain, and washed it down with a damp rag. As mentioned I know this method of sanding off the old shellac finish and applying a new coat can be a little problematic (ie. reaction and a kind of bubbling of the finish) but I was happy to give it a try, especially as I didn't have any metho, steel wool or even paint stripper at hand.

The next photo shows the leg with its first few coats of new shellac. At this stage it all looks like it will work, (eg. no reaction occurring), but we will see. I suspect I will for the rest of the table use my normal approach, though am thinking I might even try and leave the turned post section alone, perhaps simply a 0000 steel wool and wax buff.

[Horsecroft88]

And one more photo of the first stage of the leg repair, having glued the two sections and as clamped. Now for the next stage of the leg repair, the more difficult part to attempt. As you will have been able to see from one of the previous photos, the leg section was screwed in the past to the top part of the leg, so all going well I can re-use this screw hole, I just need to find a decent length screw that will bite and hold it together.

[Lawry01]

Good progress I see! Also, I wasnt aware that applying new over old shellac could result in a reaction! I would have thought a light sand, or rub with 000/ 0000 would be suficient...oh well, learning all the time.

What sort of weight would you hope your repair to be able to deal with?

[Horsecroft88]

Hey Lawry, yes I am afraid so, yet another small trap for the unwary. The funny thing with shellac from my experience is that it seems to be only a problem with old shellac finishes. If recoating a newly applied/restored shellac finished item, that it isn't a problem, even in respect of things that perhaps were restored upto around 20 years. I say this as every now and again I need to go over some of the shellac finished joinery I have at home, which for the most part was done somewhere between 10-20 years ago.

On the other hand, with furniture dating backwards from the 1920s into the 1800s I would be wary of this reaction problem occurring. The funny thing is I can usually tell pretty early on if it is going to be a problem, as old shellac when re-coated with new shellac has a musty/oldish sort of odour. Hence the keying back to see if it will take or be a problem.

I had success in using this method a little while ago with a cedar balloon back chair I needed to restore, but in other instances, no way, problems and therefore stripping back properly was required.

Once I get the leg fully repaired, then progress hopefully will pick up on the table. Re what sort of weights should it be able to hold, yes that is a good question. I think in the interests of it not breaking again, I would tend to err on the conservative side of things and suggest small items, maybe a few books/magazines, but definitely nothing too heavy. Definitely not to be used to be sat on by humans !! :no:

[Lawry01]

Once I get the leg fully repaired, then progress hopefully will pick up on the table. Re what sort of weights should it be able to hold, yes that is a good question. I think in the interests of it not breaking again, I would tend to err on the conservative side of things and suggest small items, maybe a few books/magazines, but definitely nothing too heavy. Definitely not to be used to be sat on by humans !! :no:[/QUOTE]

I share your :no: ! I guess its always a bit of a shame when restoring doesnt give you the items previous full use . However, it will no doubt look fantastic, and hold its own in amongst the other beautiful furniture you've worked on! I also ask about weight as the pending chippendale chair repair will have me asking a similar question when I get to it (or is that if????) so its on my mind every time my wife goes to sit on it!! ARGHHHHH!!:~

[Horsecroft88]

I know what you mean, and yes you are correct, but, and perhaps that is the point, I think the real answer re what can a repaired item cope with is two folds. What was it designed to cope with (in terms of structural and build quality) as well as its intended purpose. Moreover, it also depends on how skilled the repairer is and repair undertaken.

In terms of this drop leaf side table, with its splayed legs it probably wasn't intended ever to be used for really heavy items, but more so for display purposes. So long as my repairs come out as well as I hope (time will tell), I think it should be good once more for that. I am perfectly confident that I can make it look nice once more.

In respect of your chairs, hmn chairs goodluck, no seriously, in truth the above should also hold true, albeing of course that the repair section obviously becomes the weakest point into the future. However, a well repaired chair from my experience and i have a number of repaired chairs, should so long as treated with respect (and i actually believe antiques require this anyway), should be more than capable of being used as chairs rather than simply for decoration.

It also perhaps depends a little where the breaks are on a chair, as that will dictate how you can repair it, and/or how well, which of course has implications re ongoing use as a chair.

My advice at this time is look at what needs to be done, what options do you have and/if in any doubt that it the structural repairs are beyond your capabilities, it might be worth talking to a professional re at least making it sound. Afterall, you now are a fully fledged polisher, so you can always do that part of the restoration. Hope that helps a little. Dave

[Horsecroft88]

Just a really quick update on the projects. I have been progressing a little slowly with the table. I have filled all the old screw holes with wood putty (cedar), which I might need to try to colour using some wood stain as it is lighter than the actual timber. Also have continued with coating of shellac and further light sanding. It is now starting to get the sort of finish I am after, though I still need to add more coats of shellac before I will be happy.

Also I have filled and sanded back the joint/holes on the main part of the table (see picture), and started shellac finishing this. What I still need to do is the main repair to the leg, with dowls and glue, plus the addition of 1 screw from below. I also need to strip back and re-polish the other legs. Once I have all of this done, I can make a start on the table top.

I also made a start on the pine dresser top, heat gunning paint off it yesterday, I am probably at about the half way mark with this, then comes the fun part, not, using paint stripper, coarse grade steel wool, to get the residual off. Then for sanding and shellac finising.

I will continue to work on both projects but time is a little limited at the moment, and there is only so much I can stand of the horrid paint fumes when heatgunning. You do need to be careful with this, as many of the old paints contained lead, and so by burning off the paint, you release some lead fume into the air. Hence mask and good ventilation being most important.

Will update next once more progress achieved.

[Lawry01]

Hi there Dave,

slow progress is at least progress. Well done. And the dresser looks ike it will come up with some nice grain! Looing fowrd to seeing it. Saw some old painted 'junk' at the markets yesterday thinking they might be usefull cheapies to practice on, but the lady wouldnt budge on price....the dresser and its layers of lead based paint reminded me of this!

Quick question...you're already applying shellac to the table. Why would you not wait until you';ve completed all the pre-work/ repairs first?
Cheers, Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Lawry

Thanks, yes slow progress is better than nothing and I needed to take my mind off some really sad news I received on Saturday. A good friend of mine passed away on Thursday suddenly, and it came as such a shock, having only seen him a week or two ago and he seemed basically fine, just really tired. He was only 42.

Anyway back to woody stuff. Yes I think you are right, I am not sure at this stage what the timber in the dresser top is, I suspect probably Kauri, rather than the normal Baltic pine. The back boards are incredibly wide which suggests to me that it is an early piece. I bought it off a mate, who bought it many years ago from down the Port Arthur way, though whether or not it is associated with the convicts, who knows, probably not.

But it will come up well. I want to take my time carefully to remove all the paint, (its only had 2-3 coats of paint on it), and especially not to burn the wood with the heat gun. That is part of the trick in hand-stripping. I think it is preferable anyway to dipping in caustic as that bleaches the colour out of the timber anyway and with some timbers it damages the grain, let alone of course the animal glues they used back in the day, not that this itself is an issue with the dresser top.

Buying a cheap piece to practice on is actually really smart, as if it doesn't all work out ok, you havn't lost much and gained in the experience. I too have done this in the past. I rebuilt an old side table, kauri sides, and top with turned blackwood legs. The table was in about 15 pieces and was missing one side rail and the centre drawer. I only paid $30 for it at auction. It actually came together really well.

The thing with such old paints is always to wear a mask (and I don't just mean a paper mask), plus always have good ventilation and also vacumn up/clean up all the old paint, once burnt/stripped off. Don't sweep it though. The other thing I usually do is not to work on this sort of thing day in day out. Lead will excrete from your body with time, if you are exposed to it, but best always to be careful.

Ahm, confession re starting with the shellacing of the table before all structural repairs are finished, I am impatient and wanted to get a bit of colour and protection back on to the repaired areas, especially after also the filling of the old screw holes with putty and sanding back. I am trying not to disturb the polish/colour of the majority of the centre turned section of the table, as it appears to be ok, ditto the underside of the tabletop. I think all I will need to do to these areas at most is a 0000 grade steel wool and wax on/wax off.

I must get the dowels next (been a little slack) so I can sort out the main leg break. Onwards from there.

Oh do you recall we were having the discussion re prices for antiques on this thread a little while ago, well down here in Hobart on Saturday they had a special antiques auction and the top price of the day went to a very small occasional table dating back to around 1810. It was made of casuarina, and Huon secondaries. With a hidden drawer, delicate square tapering legs and provenance (from the original owner's family). The table is believed to be the oldest known example of early Tasmanian made furniture. It sold for.............$122.5K !!!

There were quite a number of other examples of early colonial furniture and paintings which also sold for fairly high prices. So the market is still there for such items if you are cashed up big time.

Myself, I operate on a much more modest budget !:D

[Lawry01]

Dave, sorry to hear about your news. That sort of thing really hits home, particularly at that young age, and with no warning. I wish you many fond memories of great times you have undoubtedly had together over his life, and that you remember those good times often! This always hits our 'perspective' buttons, so maybe we can all take a moment to notice our own.

Hopefully you can find a little bit of quiet solace in your passion for the work your'e doing on these pieces..be in your own head for a while mate!

Re your progress...yup..I figued you were a little impatient, and I love your quick rationalisation/ comeback in saying you're getting a bit of protection back in the timbers!! Well done!

The prices you speak about..wow! I would love to be in a position to be able to identify potential opportunities to pick up something needing work cheaply that would transform into a piece of value...wouldn;t we all!

Take it easy Sansay HC! Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Lawry, thanks mate, yes it certainly hit me really hard, as I had known Chris for over 20 years. He was a chef, a bloody brilliant and creative one at that, had a great sense of humor, but was also really humble and generous. His energy levels always staggered me, the hours he put in. From being a chef working with some of the very best in the industry both here in Aus and internationally he went on to run a couple of really great restaurants down here before running with two friends of his the best (in my view) cafe/bakeries here in Tassie. Google Chris Jackman, (Jackman and McRoss) and you will see what i mean.

I know he struggled after his father passed away this year, though why Chris died or how, I don't know. Anyway the weekend felt really flat after receiving the news, hence progress was slow and I just wanted to be on my own working on a project or two. It helped a little, as like also working on my country place. It was something we shared as he too had a place in the country and we often used to talk about what we were doing at our respective properties and have a laugh about some of the things that happened.

It will be hard going in for the morning or lunchtime coffee etc without seeing my mate. But you are right, I have many great memories of times spent together, conversations had etc and that is something to hang on to.

Heh heh, yep you are correct, re my impulsiveness/impatience to see a level of improvement, plus to protect the timbers. I am a little concerned at this stage how to ensure i can insert the dowl into both legs of the table to get it all aligned correctly, hence doing something I do know felt right. Still once I figure that part out I reckon it should all come together nicely, and like you am looking forward to that final stage in the process.

Believe me, such pieces as I talked of are rare, and I actually havn't too date struck it rich in finding such a barn find yet. I have a few pieces which I have definitely added some value to but that is about it. Still keep on looking as it is always possible.

[Horsecroft88]

Once again a little progress to report on, but nothing really substantial. It has been both a emotional week and also busy one. Saturday also got taken up with car club events so that only left Sunday.

I ended up concentrating on finishing off stripping (heat gun burning off), the remaining paint off the dresser top (see picture), and so now it is ready for the 2nd stage, paint stripper and coarse grade steel wool to get rid of the residual paint that is left. It is actually the stage in this process that I totally dislike (mucky) but at the same time, it can be exciting as you finally get to see what the wood looks like. Hopefully it will come up well, and will reveal what timber it is. As I mentioned I think it is Kauri but ???

As to the table, I still havn't finished the leg repair (I know, slow am I not - you don't have to answer that one :U. But I did do a little more sanding and application of coats of shellac to both the broken leg and one of the other ones. I am trying to sort out the colour differences, plus build up a little protection. One more leg to cleanup and start re-finishing. But yes I know I must tackle the leg repair. Shortly.

Damn, sorry re that I thought I had this picture thing sorted. Will go back and try to see why it didn't work.

[Chief012]

Sorry to read about the loss of your friend Horsecroft, very sad news for you and 42 is not long enough at the crease in anyones book.

I was interested in seeing the table that you mentioned, who sold it? I will google it and see if I can track down an image.

Good work on the dresser top, it's coming along nicely.

[Horsecroft88]

For sure and thanks Chief, 42 is far too young I reckon in anyone's book, at that age one is getting into one's stride in achieving things and enjoying life.

Regarding the table that sold, it was sold by Gowan's Auctions, they do have a website, and you should be able to find the pictures on the listing of past auctions. It was a lovely "little" table. With the buyer's premium I think the end price was somewhere around $140K !

Thanks re compliments on the dresser top. It should come up really well, I just hope it matches my Huon pine dresser base.

[Chief012]

I have just turned 41, so it certainly makes you stop and think.

I had a look on the Gowan's site, some really interesting things there! An interesting table, not sure I would have gone that high for it,...I think I would have pooled my resources and bought all the Huon Pine on offer!

[Horsecroft88]

I know what you mean and I am 52, and still have so much to do in my life yet.

For sure there was some interesting items up for sale, most were way beyond my means, while the table, yes I agree, and having seen it in the wood (flesh), even if I had such financial resources, I suspect I would have struggled to justify such a level of expense.

As I was saying to Lawry a while ago, down here I am constantly amazed at what seems to come up for sale. There seriously is still a lot of really high quality colonial furniture around, mind you mostly not for sale. There are two antique auction houses in Launceston, which also from time to time get some pretty special pieces in to auction off.

You certainly could buy a lot of huon pine, oh and some cedar for that sort of $$ outlay for sure.

[Lawry01]

man...I'm just going to have to head down to tassie and check out this amazing timber, and antique houses!!! Might pick up a bargain or two and up the price range her in brisvegas!! ;)

[Grandad-5]

Might pick up a bargain or two and up the price range her in brisvegas!! ;)

A very quick little thread hijack here Horsecroft if I may?

Lawry, this isn't the first reference I've seen to "Brisvegas".
It has me intrigued.
I assume you're suggesting Brisbane is now like Las Vegas?
Is that right?

Jim

[pmcgee]

Urban Dictionary: brisvegas (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=brisvegas)

[Grandad-5]

Excellant explanation. Thank you.
Just for the record, I've always considered Brisbane to be one of our prettiest cities. People tell me Perth gives it a nudge, but I've never been to Perth to know if that's true.
Thanks again.

End of hijack.

[Lawry01]

A very quick little thread hijack here Horsecroft if I may?

Lawry, this isn't the first reference I've seen to "Brisvegas".
It has me intrigued.
I assume you're suggesting Brisbane is now like Las Vegas?
Is that right?

Jim

Jim, I prefer to see the term as being somewhat 'aspirational'! Lawry

[pmcgee]

Excellant explanation. Thank you.
Just for the record, I've always considered Brisbane to be one of our prettiest cities. People tell me Perth gives it a nudge, but I've never been to Perth to know if that's true.
Thanks again.

End of hijack.

Perth has lots of trees - which is good ... except where there is a new housing estate, in which case it is better to create a desert first then add sand and concrete :~
It also has plenty of beaches, which is good for some.

I liked the look of Melbourne when I was there briefly - history + greenery :)
I imagine I'd like Tassie even better - must work on that.
Cheers,
Paul

[Grandad-5]

Since hijack seems to be continuing I might add something for your benefit Paul that you may like.
My family all arrived here from Canada in 1960. Prior to our leaving we spoke to several ex-pat Aussies to get a feel for where we should settle.
One fellow summarised the major cities in this way. (Remember, this was 1960!)
In Sydney they'll ask you where you live. In Melbourne they'll ask what school your son goes to, In Brisbane they'll want to know how much money you have and in Adelaide what church do you go to.
In Perth, they'll say "Come in and have a beer"
I've always wanted to see Perth!
Jim

[Horsecroft88]

heh heh Jim et al, no dramas from me re thread hijacks. For sure Lawry, bring a big wallet is all I can say if you want the really good stuff. Mind you there also are bargains if you know what you are looking for.

Now re around the Country, what can I say, I think Melbourne is a great place to visit, love all the laneways, cafes, food markets etc, and down at Port Melbourne/St Kilda is always good. Then of course there is the Yarra Valley and also the Great Ocean road, as a petrol head and appalling surfer enough said, oh and they have mountains to ski on, so as a skier that suits me. Ditto Sydney, what a harbour, plenty of interesting places in the city, blue mountains, the alps, up around Byron or down south along the coast also really enjoyable. I am sure there is so much more but I havn't seen it yet.

Queensland, especially Brisvagas, Adelaide and Perth, I have no idea as havn't really been to these places, yet. But I will one day, the vineyards etc of SA so appealing ditto WA. Not sure what is up in Queensland, suspect I need educating.

Down here in Tas, ditto there is plenty to see from the old colonial buildings, etc small villages, to the wildness of the mountains, the rugged but scenic west coast to the beaches of the east coast. The food and wine down here is excellent. I am not kidding.

However, let me tempt you all with a picture I took down at the dockside in Hobart the other night. Where some of the Sydney-Hobart yachts end up being moored, with the old stone buildings in the background (part of the museum complex). Right back to work and later more woody stuff. Dave

[pmcgee]

A couple pics stolen harvested off the internet that might be of interest ...

They were here: MODERN CARPENTER JOINER and CABINET-MAKER 8 VOLS G.L. SUTCLIFFE ROY UNDERHILL | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trkparms=algo%3DRCI%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUA%252BMH%252BUCC%26otn%3D18%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D348598712458388113&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=110891668769&nma=true&rt=nc&si=sxB%252BMSko8ngoedYmSqjJzBfcOXM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc#ht_8855wt_1185)

Paul

[Lawry01]

Dave...how are you progressing? You've been a bit quiet...I'm concerned...all OK? Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Lawry all ok mate, just been really busy at work and on the weekends of late to have really any time for my projects. Most of this week I was away up the northwest of the state for work. Am hoping for a little time this weekend to finally get on with the structural repair to the leg. I managed to get the dowls and a drill bit (but went looking for this last night, and couldn't find it. Grrr). So might have to buy another one if I can't.

All I have managed to do of late to the table is some gentle rubbing back (light sanding) and further polishing of the underside and legs of the table. All about trying to get the colour better blended between the original and the sections that needed to be stripped back and repolished. All looking really good so far. I will take some more photos and post these shortly. But I really want to show the leg repair, so must bite the bullet.

Thanks Paul re the "harvested details" re different finish techniques, appreciated, always good to learn.

[Horsecroft88]

Just a further quick update. Been somewhat busy of late with other things to have much time to work on the projects, but finally managed to get a little bit more done on the small table over the weekend. So on Saturday night, I drilled the holes for the dowels to be inserted into the legs of the table for the repair. Making sure of course that the holes and dowels lined up. With my limited experience and tools etc, it was a little tricky but thankfully it mostly worked out ok. So I glued the dowel into the main part of the leg, and then pushed the broken leg part onto it. A little pursuasion from Mr Hammer to make sure it was tight helped. Thereafter, I inserted two screws from the underside of the leg to the leg base, and clamped (as per the pic shows), and left to dry/harden over night.

Yesterday after a day working out at the country property rebuilding the fireplace in the kitchen I removed the clamp to see if it had worked and thankfully it has. I inserted a little more of the extra strong wood work glue into the drill holes for the screws, and also the join. Later on I puttied these up with cedar wood putty, and again left overnight to harden. All going well tonight, I might get a chance to sand off the repair areas, to see how it all looks, and can thereafter continue with the build up of colour/shellac coats.

All three legs now of the table have been sanded back and re-shellacing has started. Once I am happy with this, I will start on the table top, stripping it back and then re-shellacing. Once this is complete, then for the super fine steel wool cutting back and bees wax polishing and one more project for the completed list. Will update as more progress is achieved.

[Lawry01]

Looking good Dave...I'm also getting a few ideas here for my current small piano stool project. By the way..what glue are you using (cos I need to do some glueing on the stool, and need it to not be visible) Also good to hear you're progressing on the property. Would love tosee some WIP pics of that too! Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Lawry, I saw your post re your next project but was somewhat time limited by work needing my attention. I was going to come back to your project to see if there were any comments I could add apart from its looking like a good project to be working on etc etc :D

Re the glues I am using, I think I might have noted the names of the glues in one of the early postings on this thread, but if not I can note them down tonight and post the details. One is a Sellys' product, it is opaque when it comes out of the bottle but for some strange reason changes opacity to go a milky colour, and seems to bubble up a bit. You need to clean that off, but it glues things rock hard. The other one (can't recall the manufacturer), looks a lot like PVA when it comes out of the bottle but doesn't seem to leave a coloured residue. Again it too seems to be very strong. PVA has its uses but for structural repairs, from my experience I am not convinced it is that fantastic.

Re the country house project. Oh boy, ahm yes I have photos,........lots of them. But I don't wish to bore anyone to death re this. What I might do is just attach a few to show current repairs I am making to the fireplace in the kitchen etc. I have just about completed all the wood polishing, construction etc etc in the kitchen. Just a few things now to finish off and have the appliances fitted. Need that Plumber and Sparky to come out and do their stuff.

With the fireplace, it had when we bought the house an old wood heater that was stuffed. So we had that romoved and basically what we found was the old fireplace was in poor condition. The base was all loose rubble, broken bricks etc. while the sides need to be repointed etc. So I layed a gravel base, thereafter a bed of mortor and repaired what was left of the original base that I could leave in place. I then needed to clean up a pile of bricks (convict ones, complete with thumb prints), and have just about now finished off a two layer high base. I have made it as level as I can. Next I need to remove the old steel bar that is in the wrong place, re-point the sides and rear of the fire place, and repair the arch. Using lime based mortar for this sort of work.

The other photos show the front lounge room, which has had a complete new baltic pine floor installed, new bearers etc. We insulated the floor, have installed re-claimed skirtings, timber work is all stripped and polishing has started. However, also I need next to sort out the original and re-paired plaster work, before I can paint the room. The fireplace in this room was in terrible condition, with major damp problems. Anyway those problems have been sorted now.

The shot in the bedroom also shows a timber bed base that the other half is making for us, we previously restored the old brass and cast iron bed she found at the local tip shop, it should all work out ok.

The other photos are one looking towards the pantry and then a shot looking across to where the stove will be installed. What I should do is either start a house resto thread to show the before during and completed stages to give people the full story.

[Horsecroft88]

Ok, a few photos from the kitchen rennos, as mentioned above. Both as now and what we started with. See if you can spot the difference :U

[Horsecroft88]

Some further pics of from the bedroom (now restored) the bathroom complete with restored claw and ball bath, as well as a really unusual handmade (Regency) Tas oak and cedar mantle, and a shot of the kitchen door and new window, baltic reveals etc. Again all hand stripped and polished. I think you will see how from these snaps how it is starting to come together.

[Lawry01]

Ok, a few photos from the kitchen rennos, as mentioned above. Both as now and what we started with. See if you can spot the difference :U

I am suitably impressed!!!!! Oh, and yes, I can spot the difference.......the defining giveaway is the 'Oh my God..What IS this???' look on (I presume) your lovely lady's face!! :q - A surefire way to get support for your continued and pending efforts!! You have the 'Before" pic, now you need the 'After" shot of her looking so excitedly at your labours!

And yes, no doubt there will be a few keen to see a separate thread on your renos. I left renovating behind 20 years ago when we refurbished and added to our old 1920's property when we lived in Melbourne!

cheers, Lawry
ps I'll go back on the thread for the glue options.....need the bond to be quite strong, particularly as I'm wanting to re-set the hinges on the cracked section.

[Horsecroft88]

heh heh, thought you might just spot the difference Lawry, it certainly is a change from the OMG what have we done buying the place (yes correct that is the other half) !!! thoughts that occurred to me at least, after handing over the $$$$ to purchase it. The change is definitely the result of plenty of more $$$, time, hard work by both the builder/sparky/plumber and us. But it is pleasing to see the results come up as well as they have. Now to get on with more of it.

This is the second major house restoration/rennovation I have tackled also over the past 20 years. The first being where we live, which is an 1850 property (in the city). It too when purchased gave me plenty of the OMG what have I have done moments. The happiness for me is looking back on what has been achieved.

Well this morning before heading off to work, I sanded back the leg repair section, coarse to fine and cleaned off the dust to see how it all came up. Next for re-polishing this section, plus finish off the shellacing of the legs. Then for the top to be stripped back and re-polished.

However, a milestone moment today, for the Table now stands on 3 legs, with out ironmongery and a myriad of rusty screws holding it all together. It felt good to see it like that and thankfully it feels both firm, and not out of balance. So I think I have managed to repair it reasonably correctly. See pics from this morning below.

[Horsecroft88]

Some more close up pics of the repaired section. You can quite clearly see that one of the other legs previously has also broken and been repaired. So obviously a weak area in the design. No heavy objects therefore to be placed on this table in future.

Now for stripping and re-polishing the top and finishing the legs, the home straight. Phew :2tsup: Will post more pics as we complete this project.

Re the glues used: Selleys Durabond (Super durable wood working glue) and Anchor Weld (AVS) Timber and other timber products adhesive.

[Lawry01]

Dave, table looking good. I like the simple elegence in it..this one will come up a treat I reckon! Good to hear the repairs have worked so well, and as either you or WW once said to me...antiques must always be treated with care. Resoration to 'original' look doesnt correlate with original resilience! A point worthy of being reminded of! Wellloff you go and finish this one off. I'll be heading into the depths of stool seat reupholstering in the next day or two. Cheers, L

[Horsecroft88]

Thanks Lawry, appreciated. Yes quite correct one should always treat antiques with respect, especially when doing any restoration work on them. I know what you mean the simple elegance of this table. The beauty in this piece is not the price that was paid for it, which was not much, eg $70-80. But rather that with some TLC it can be repaired and once more be both a useful but nice addition to one's home. For me everytime I bring back to life a piece of furniture that was once lovely but over time had become sad/poor condition I gain much personal satisfaction. I am sure you too understand this given what you previously achieved with your English oak desk, let alone the new projects you are working on. Quick progress report, over the past couple of nights I have been rebuilding up the colour and shellac coating on the legs of the table. The repairs being now far less obvious. No pics today. I think that I am nearly finished with that stage. So next for the top, will start on this tonight. Hope the seat upholstery is likewise going well. Cheers dave

[Horsecroft88]

Just a very quick update and one picture. So last night, I sanded back the old finish, using 240 grade and finised off with a light sand using 400 grade, to the edge and top of the table. The legs and underside of the table being finished and ready for the 0000 grade steel wool cutback and wax on wax off with the bees wax polish.

I am reasonably happy with how the top has come up so far, but I will need to cut back with 400 grade paper and then re-shellac the surface. I suspect I might do this a couple more times to see what depth of finish/colour I will get. Hopefully though by the end of the weekend this stage will be complete, and it too will be ready for the final stage....polishing.

Not long now. Then for the next project.

[Lawry01]

Good progress Dave. Are you planning to take back to bare, or just a few more coats of the old shellac, depending on colour/ looks? Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Lawry, thanks. Yes I too had wondered how best to repolish the top. At this stage I am going to try not to have to strip it completely back to bare wood. I am only doing that, not because I am being lazy but rather as the polish and colour wasn't too bad. The thing was that there were a few deep scratches and other less pleasant marks plus a lot of minor surface scratching. Also the overall feel wasn't as I would normally like, and simply re-waxing wasn't going to cut the mustard.

Hence, I have tried the simple approach of just cutting back the old shellac surface to see if I can get away with re-applying a new shellac coating.

As you would have also seen from the other post re the inclusion of oil to help lubricate and achieve a deeper shine. Well this is a new technique to me, and so given it is not a large or expensive table, I am keen to try this method out. If for what ever reason such techniques don't work out, well I can always strip back to bare wood and start again. Nothing really to loose apart from some time and a little materials, and some further refinement of my skills/experience in this.

I am kind of feeling a little 'grasshopperish" myself in this. Will post more to record how things worked out.

[Lawry01]

Well, I'll be watching with interest re oiling the pad. Might also be a bit grasshopperish when I do my el-cheapo table ! But for now..back to the piano stool! L

[Horsecroft88]

Ok, so over the weekend, I managed to get some more work completed on the table restoration project. Given the discussion regarding true French Polishing vrs padding, I figured I might as well give this a crack to see if I could learn something from this.

That being the case, after cutting back lightly the table top with 400 grade, I made up a new pad and put a few drops of extra virgin olive oil, the theory being that the inclusion of oil should prevent the pad from sticking to the finish (provides a lubricant), as you coat the surface using the figure of 8 application method. I guess the pertinant question is did it work. The truth is I am not sure. The reason I say that is that when I applied shellac to my pad to surface the table top, the first applications seemed to make the surface really dull, rather than what i would have expected, to build up both colour and sheen. As I worked more coats of shellac to the surface this seemed to change.

However, I can't honestly say that the addition of a few drops of oil prevented the pad from sticking as the shellac mix dried. I still find the best thing to do is to cover your surface, working the shellac onto it, then to step back to allow it to properly dry before applying the next coat.

I left it alone after about 1/2 hour of applying coats of shellac. On Sunday, I again cut the top back using 400 grade. I must say the surface did feel ultra smooth. Again I went through the excercise of applying a few drops of oil before shellacing the pad and applying multiple coats over a period of time. That is where the table is now at. I am actually pretty satisfied with the finish, the colour and level of sheen achieved.

What I now need to do is to grab some 0000 steel wool and bees wax polish and to cut back and wax on wax off the entire table. I will let you all know after this stage how it finished up, and whether or not, the addition of the oil was really worth it. The one thing I did find is that there was absolutely no need to have to wipe off any oil (as had been suggested I would). It seems to have been included into the finish.

Perhaps my skills in this slight modification to the finish application process are not that great yet. Might have to see with another project I have to do, as to whether or not this really works.

I will post the latest pics of the table (not great photos), and I am not really sure they show much difference from my last ones. My guess is that once I have cut back and waxed the table, is when a real difference in the finish will be noticeable.

[Lawry01]

Dave...well done for having a go at this additional technique. Perhaps WW has some wisdom to add to your experience of it, but I also think that your years of experience using shellac have resulted in a lovely patina- full finish on the table. I do recall my first attempts at making a pad (on the desk) - a rather messy attempt at that, and I was never sure just how much shellac was actually being applied (hence my return to the brush) Anyway.looking forward to the post-wax look! lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Lawry, thanks for I thought it sounded intriguing and well worth the experiment. As I said this new additional step is something I hadn't tried before. Not even sure I was aware of it, hmn so much for my experience perhaps :doh: But anyway, at least it didn't seem to stuff things up. I agree, someone like WW with his considerable knowledge and experience over mine, or others might have some good advice, in case I wasn't working the pad correctly or something.

Thanks I am pretty comfortable in the way I have been polishing, and for certain have gained a level of experience, so yes can do a 1/2 reasonable job. Personally and not in the slightest a case of pumping up my own tyres, I have seen some "professionally" restored pieces, let alone antiques etc in shops with far poorer presented finishes than I have achieved. I guess perhaps there is the old equation of time = money and therefore it is not cost effective to pay for the extra work in doing the job correctly. As I am mostly restoring for my ownself or the other half, I don't have this pressure. Well that is apart from "get on with the house restoration please !!!" :U

I know what you mean re the first few times you make/use a pad and hence using a brush is far easier. I still use a brush for a lot of work, ie. joinery (architraves, skirtings, doors, mantles, let alone table legs etc, but with experience I have found making/using a pad for flat surfaces can result in a higher quality finish. It often also comes down to what you also want. Sometimes, the higer end finish (fine and more glossy) actually is not required/appropriate. Hence, in such occasions I will do less to get something finished with a slightly more coarse a finish and duller appearance.

Me too mate, I also look forward to its finish and will post some more pictures.

[Horsecroft88]

Hey guys, yay the table is finished. After a day out at the country place working on the fireplace, after dinner tonight I cut the finish back with 0000 grade steel wool and then for the bees wax polish. Finally after buffing off it is all done. Will post pics off the iPhone on Monday. Bottle of 2010 Bordeaux chateaux haut Cormier and glass filled in celebration. Must admit it feels good to have this project completed. Now for the next one.

[Lawry01]

Hey guys, yay the table is finished. After a day out at the country place working on the fireplace, after dinner tonight I cut the finish back with 0000 grade steel wool and then for the bees wax polish. Finally after buffing off it is all done. Will post pics off the iPhone on Monday. Bottle of 2010 Bordeaux chateaux haut Cormier and glass filled in celebration. Must admit it feels good to have this project completed. Now for the next one.

Well done Dave..looking forwad to the pictures. If theres a drop or two of the Bordeaux remaining, I reckon its worth my while flying down to join you!!!! Celebrations are best shared. Maybe one day mate! So..its onto the next poroject then? And I need to get cracking on the stool and table as well. Need to get some webbing etc.

Meantime, enjoy the fruits of your labour (and the vine!) You need a good cigar to go with it..I can supply!! lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Well done Dave..looking forwad to the pictures. If theres a drop or two of the Bordeaux remaining, I reckon its worth my while flying down to join you!!!! Celebrations are best shared. Maybe one day mate! So..its onto the next poroject then? And I need to get cracking on the stool and table as well. Need to get some webbing etc.

Meantime, enjoy the fruits of your labour (and the vine!) You need a good cigar to go with it..I can supply!! lawry

Thank mate. Righto Lawry,you are on, bring the cigars and I can supply the Bordeaux or even a decent Aussie drop. The cellar is looking pretty healthy right now :2tsup:.

Tasted an absolutely fabulous wine last Friday night, a 2007 Schild Estate Limited Reserve Shiraz (Moorooroo). I know wierd name but I think possibly the best red wine I have tasted in the last 2-5 years, outside of Penfolds Grange etc. Costs a bit ($85) but not as pricy as Grange, Henscheke Hill of Grace etc. So I had to buy a bottle for the cellar (was slightly discounted at $78 !!), only to find when I got home I already had a 2003 of the same wine (a present from someone ??). I digress.

I know what you mean re sharing in the celebrations, regrettably it was done flying solo, as the other half was studying (she is 2nd year nurse training, and has an interview for a possie in Sydney this Thursday).

Anyway, so there I was the table looking and feeling silky smooth, and feeling pretty pleased with myself. The table is now in the "good room" with the other good pieces, so that the cats can't get at it and scratch them. Pics below of the finished table, though I must admit I don't think they do the table justice. She was happy though with it.

Next project to get on with will be to sort out the dresser top, so I need some paint stripper and coarse steel wool to clean that up.

Look forward to seeing the progress on both of your projects. All the best, cheers Dave

[Horsecroft88]

Two more pics, sorry re the sideways photos, sometimes despite trying to sort out the rotation it still doesn't seem to save it correctly. Bit puzzled by that. Ditto the photo quality is a bit iffy, even though the phone is supposed to have a half decent camera. Should probably use the digi camera in future for this sort of thing.

[Horsecroft88]

I think it is time to revive my thread on the various furniture restoration/re-polish projects I have currently to get on with.

So following on from the success I managed to achieve with the tilt top table for the other half, this time it is one of my own pieces. Some years ago, my builder asked me to store an early kitchen dresser top he had managed to acquire from the Port Arthur area. It was painted and though impressive looked tired. It sat in the lock up garage I have rented for many a year where I store 2 of my Italian classic sportscars. I never did anything with it, neither did he ask about it, or seek to have it back.

A little while ago he admitted he was unlikely ever to get around restoring it and so wondered if I might like it/could use it. The simple answer was a yes to both questions. A mutually agreeable price was reached, suffice to say I don't think it was expensive. I have a huon pine dresser base, which I previously had restored, which is missing its top. Hence the need.

So I managed to finally drag the top home, and yes it is bloody heavy. But what timber is it made from, I hazarded a guess, given the back boards are not painted on the rear as NZ Kauri.

I know I have posted a few pics of it, previously in this thread but I will post again, and of the paint stripping process. Firstly I had to heat gun off all the paint. I hate that part of the job, but it is a necessary evil. Then comes the even more yuckky part, stripping off the residual paint muck with paint stripper and coarse grade steel wool. So this is where I am up to now, as I have started on this part of the process, the two sides and the top have been cleaned up, ditto I have mostly cleaned up the top shelf.

The answer to the wood species is yes Kauri. I even started a little ahead of myself last night, while paint stripping, to lightly sand back with 240 and 400 grade and thereafter put the first guide coats of shellac on the LHS, to see how well the colour of the wood and grain will come up. Needless to say, I am going to be happy. But plenty of work to do yet before that stage. Plus I have one minor repair to do, as a small section of one of the back boards is broken and missing.

I was thinking if i can somehow sqare it up I might be able to insert/glue a piece. Only one minor issue, I don't think I have any kauri, or of the thickness required. Options probably will be either a piece of baltic or alternatively a fillet of Huon (if I can cut a piece down). Will have to see when I get to that stage.

Pictures of progress attached.

[burraboy]

I'd be tempted to leave it.

[Chief012]

What thickness is it?

I picked up what was left behind by the termites of a hoop/kauri staircase from an old house here in Newcastle. Would be happy to send you a piece. I dont think that small piece would tax my stock to heavily!

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Chief, I am not sure, would hazard a guess at say around 5mm or so thick and length 10-15cm, width perhaps around 30mm. I will measure the missing area tonight once home and thereafter can let you know.

If it is possible I would very much appreciate it. I can understand what you are saying Burra, but yet I kind of like the idea of trying to repair the minor damage. If I can effect it well, I just think it will look a little better.

I am also going to have to think about how to mount the top to the dresser base, as the one I have doesn't have the normal cutouts to which you would screw the sides of the top to, if you know what i mean. I had wondered if I might be able to make a base plate/trim which I can screw the top to the base by.

I will post a few pics of the dresser base. It currently has another top on it, but it is too small (cut down) and out of proportion. I will probably attach this top to the wall out at the country place. I previously restored this, having bought it from, yes Gordon Brown of Collectors fame. It was painted pink, and a complete wreck. It turned out to be Huon pine. Thankfully I didn't pay much for it. See pics of it as bought.

[Horsecroft88]

Oh, see a previous baltic pine dresser I rescued, so you can see what I am aiming for with this next project.

The top on this one obviously had been in someone's garage and was covered in blue paint, oil, grease stains, had an extra shelf crudely inserted into it, the top piece and decorative front trim were falling off as well. The base, thankfully just needed a little minor tidying up.

It is a little too covered in stuff, hence need to get this second one completed, so I can create some space to spread things out better so you can see things, uncrowded

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Chief, have just sent you a PM re the size of the repair section I need to sort out. Figured best to do this that way. David

[Lawry01]

Good progres Dave...and great to see the generosity of people like Chief! I've bee a bit recalcitrant in my effots on my projects, and postings etc., so will get cracking! Seeing how far you've moved has pressed me a little!!
You seem to have a 'thing' for old dressers!!!! Oh, & I also notice a reference to some old Italien motors...I'm definitely visiting!!! Lawry

[Chief012]

Thanks for the kind words Lawry, however I think thats what this site is all about. We all share a common interest and passion, and offer support and help were we can, even if only minor. I learned very early how generous people on this site were and am happy to repay that in kind.

Now get back to your projects! :)

[Lawry01]

Thanks for the kind words Lawry, however I think thats what this site is all about. We all share a common interest and passion, and offer support and help were we can, even if only minor. I learned very early how generous people on this site were and am happy to repay that in kind.

Now get back to your projects! :)

Yes Sir!!!! :-:-:- Some upholstery items ordered as I type (have some late 1800's chairs to re-web so thought I would order bits for the stool with the rest)

And you are so right..as you know, I have found this site to have some incredibly generous people, and yes, that is what its all about. Hoping I can be of assistance to some in due course.

Lawry:U

[Chief012]

Looking forward to your next WIP Lawry - I hope it's as enjoyable and satisfying as your first :)

[Horsecroft88]

Thanks guys and good to hear from you Lawry.

Heh heh, mate if you saw my antique collection, you would understand it is not just dressers, I used to have another one which I previously re-polished but sold on, the same is true for my chest of drawers collection. At one stage I had 5 but am down to just 2 now. As for tables, well lets just say from memory, I think we have only 11, there used to be a couple more and chairs off the top of my head I think there is about 16 (balloon backs, rail backs etc). A mix of timbers and ages but mostly cedar, some mahogany, baltic, kauri and Huon. But of course there is more furniture, which perhaps best not go into. Luckily for us we have enough space. At some stage we might need to do a bit of a cull.

I have to say I totally agree, the generosity of people here on the forum, the knowledge readily shared, and so on makes it so worthwhile.

I checked out your Caddy, Chief, indeed most impressive and if it comes up looking as good as the beauty shown it will be most rewarding. Out of curiosity was it difficult to do all the import stuff from the US. Will take the time later to read your blog as I am sure all the answers are there.

Ah yes Lawry I do have a bit of a thing for Italian motors, funny that. I think I was infected at a very early stage in my life, and I believe there is no antidote :D.

See below (and somewhat off thread) a few snaps of my cars (Fiat 124, Alfa 1750 GTV and AR Giulia Super) and a few pics of my brothers (Lancia Delta Integrale, Flaminia GT). Also for Chief's info an image of part of my brothers sad state of affairs. 80 + is a bit much.

Managed to get a little more work done last night on the dresser top, as I sanded the top back lightly and the side I had previously applied the first coats of shellac too. I can confidently say it is going to come up pretty special. The feel of the surface already is really fine, and the grain will be quite a treat. Looking forwards (I think) to starting cleaning up the back boards. Will post more after the weekend. It is going to be very busy for me, work out at the property, on the project and then Day 1 of the Real Tennis Australian Open to see here in Hobart on Sunday.

[Horsecroft88]

Back to my current woody project. Regrettably due to other commitments, little progress has been made. But nethertheless, the latest pic (apologies for poor quality) taken this morning, after doing a little paint stripping last night before heading off to bed and then a little more this morning.

I am now aiming on completing cleaning up the second shelf area. Only two more shelf sections to go, and then the undersides of the shelves.

Then for some cleaning/neutralising before light sanding and finally shellacing. Received with much thanks to Chief012 yesterday a fillet of Kauri to insert into the section that needs repairing.

Before I do that part, I will complete stage 2 of this project (paint stripping etc). Then I will need to square up the missing section and thereafter figure out how best to carefully insert the repair section.

[Chief012]

Looking good!!

Glad the piece made the long journey south intact and look forward to seeing how it comes up. :)

[Lawry01]

Chief..I think this entitles you to a glass of red on HC's project table! ;)

[Chief012]

Happy to help Lawry, it's no big deal.

I only drink red wine to be polite, interesting and to stimulate conversation,......unfortunately some nights it makes me rude, uninteresting and unable to communicate,.... ;)

[Lawry01]

Happy to help Lawry, it's no big deal.

I only drink red wine to be polite, interesting and to stimulate conversation,......unfortunately some nights it makes me rude, uninteresting and unable to communicate,.... ;)

I think we must be related....this pattern is genetic of course!!:B

[Chief012]

Ha and very true!

[Horsecroft88]

Guys you have me cracking up, and yes glass of medicinal red is being enjoyed right now. Always room at the table and thankfully plenty of Red in the 'cellar'. Might do a little more paint stripping tonight. - joy

[Chief012]

Don't have too many glasses of red - you won't strip the paint straight!!

[Horsecroft88]

Think I managed ok Chief :2tsup: :D, and yes not too many glasses were consumed.

It is so painfully slow, to tease out the paint, but at least it is coming up nice and clean and will make the next phase so much easier. Love the wide boards.

Fillet of kauri from Chief in the picture, to be used for the repair.

Now for the third shelf to be cleaned up.

[Chief012]

:2tsup:

Looking great!

[Lawry01]

Coming on nicely Dave!
Just back from an icy trip to Melbourne, so must get stuck into my projects before heading of again later this week!

[Horsecroft88]

Sounds good Lawry, look forward to reading re more progress re your projects. Havn't done much on the dresser top this week. A little more paint stripping but not worthy of a pic. Off to NZ tomorrow at lunchtime for a week of skiing. Can't wait, it should be really excellent as the snow cover looks superb. Will catchup with you all when back and have done some more hard graft on the woody project. :2tsup:

[Lawry01]

Happy hbolidays Dave!! Until our next series of installments then..... Lawry

[Lawry01]

Dave..all quiet here from you since your trip. You didnt break a leg or something crazy like that I hope?? Get cracking sunshine...let's go, let's go, let's go!!!:D

[Horsecroft88]

Dave..all quiet here from you since your trip. You didnt break a leg or something crazy like that I hope?? Get cracking sunshine...let's go, let's go, let's go!!!:D

Hi Lawry and all, sorry guys I have been kind of busy of late since returning from the ski trip (all legs etc are in place, no damage :D), and yes I have even managed a little more paint muck stripping off. But no pics yet. I tried this new paint stripper, out. It seems less nasty in terms of fumes, and kinder to my hands, when I get a little muck on them, but it also seems to be really slow to do its job. Thats a little frustrating. Hopefully over the next few days I will achieve some progress to the point where it is worth taking some more pics for all to see.

[Lawry01]

Welcome back Dave....lookig forward to your next steps.
I'm going to do a little bit of upholstery repairs next (no wood finishing involved here) on my 1890's granfather/ granmother chairs & chaise. The piano stoll work was a good primer on upholstering.

Cheers,
Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi all, been a bit quiet of late here, re my various projects. But finally I have over last weekend and today managed to get some more progress achieved on the kauri dresser top restoration. Paint stripping by hand is basically a crappy job to do, messy, tiring and just not very enjoyable. It is worse still when you think you are doing the right thing by buying some environmentally friendly biodegradable paintstripper, and it simply doesn't cut the mustard !! I know, should have known better, even though I work as an environmental manager for the EPA, you really do need to the tough stuff which will get the job done. Hence partly the reason for being quiet of late, it was just so bloody frustrating.

I will post some pics of where I am up to on Monday, but to fill in the gaps in the meantime, given that it is a large dresser top means there is quite a bit of work to do. Teasing the paint out of the joints, out of the regency mouldings between each backing board etc. To the best of my experience, if doing by hand there is no other way. I suppose I could have deconstructed the top, but given it is so solid, to me that made little sense. Anyway, I now only have one and a bit of the undersides of the shelves to complete, and then finally this part of the project will be completed.

Next I need to give the whole top a sanding using 220/240 and then 400 grade and finally shellacing can begin. I have already done some trial areas and the grain and colour looks like it will come up superbly. Don't worry guys, I won't be sanding it hard, as there is plenty of stains, bumps, scratches etc, markings which are both a part of its history, and were nicely preserved under the layers of paint.

Right have just run out of paint stripper, so more is needed to finish up :2tsup:, :D. Looking forward to this.

[Chief012]

Good to see some progress, keep it up and looking forward to seeing some results of all this hard work!