Organoil woodsheen - dumb question?

[Muz G]

Product: Organoil: Natural Woodsheen: Rejuvenating Buffing oil.

I'm using this finish per the instructions on the back of the tin for a chessboard I've made.

I've read the instructions a few times and this is possibly a dumb question but can anyone clarify (in the section marked (b) below) whether the following instructions from the back of the tin means:
- 2 coats on the first day, wait 3-4 days and apply 2 more coats or
- apply 1 coat, wait 3-4 days then apply a second coat.

Notes: (On back of tin.)

a) Sand timber (dry) through grits 600 - 1500.
b) Apply 2 coats 3-4 days apart - wipe off excess oil that has not been absorbed within 1-2 hours after each application.
c) Repeat steps in b) until the desired lustre is achieved (3-5 applications may be necessary depending on the lustre sought).

I'm looking for a satin finish. Any idea of how many applications that may mean? Do I rub it back in between or just keep applying the oil at 3-4 day intervals?

Also are you supposed to apply the oil sparingly or fairly liberally? I get the the feeling that as they are talking of removing the excess oil by rag you are supposed to use a fair bit. Is that correct?

One last thing. Is it possible to seal/protect it after I've finished oiling it? What I mean is there some last step I should do once I'm done? (I've read here about other blokes Danish polishing something with 4 or 5 coats and then applying a fine wax of various descriptions or some other variation.) Hope that makes sense.

Many thanks in advance. (Long time lurker, rare poster.)

Cheers

[_fly_]

Product: Organoil: Natural Woodsheen: Rejuvenating Buffing oil.

I'm using this finish per the instructions on the back of the tin for a chessboard I've made.

I've read the instructions a few times and this is possibly a dumb question but can anyone clarify (in the section marked (b) below) whether the following instructions from the back of the tin means:
- 2 coats on the first day, wait 3-4 days and apply 2 more coats or
- apply 1 coat, wait 3-4 days then apply a second coat.

Notes: (On back of tin.)

a) Sand timber (dry) through grits 600 - 1500.
b) Apply 2 coats 3-4 days apart - wipe off excess oil that has not been absorbed within 1-2 hours after each application.
c) Repeat steps in b) until the desired lustre is achieved (3-5 applications may be necessary depending on the lustre sought).

I'm looking for a satin finish. Any idea of how many applications that may mean? Do I rub it back in between or just keep applying the oil at 3-4 day intervals?

Also are you supposed to apply the oil sparingly or fairly liberally? I get the the feeling that as they are talking of removing the excess oil by rag you are supposed to use a fair bit. Is that correct?

One last thing. Is it possible to seal/protect it after I've finished oiling it? What I mean is there some last step I should do once I'm done? (I've read here about other blokes Danish polishing something with 4 or 5 coats and then applying a fine wax of various descriptions or some other variation.) Hope that makes sense.

Many thanks in advance. (Long time lurker, rare poster.)

Cheers

Wrote a lot but took it all away, Your option 2 is correct. 1 coat wait days and then coat again.

[Drillit]

Hello Muz G,
Agree with Fly. 2nd coat 3-4 days after 1st coat. After 2nd coat leave another 3 or 4 days, then light touch up with 0000 steel wool. Apply 3 coat leave 3 or 4 days and then apply 4th coat. I think you are better off using the oil sparingly and rub in on with a tack free cloth. This will give you a satin finish.Having said that I havent used this oil on cheese boards. Is it foodsafe, given that board may also have knife marks and food on it. Because it is used for food I would not use a wax polish. I have found using paraffin oil (medical standard) or foodsafe oil ( U-Beaut) the best for boards - use soap and water to wash up after use and if it needs a touch up re oil down the track 6 or 12 months later, then that is easy to do. Hope this helps. John M.

[Muz G]

Thanks for that gents. That was what I assumed.

Also there'll be no knife marks (or I hope not) on the chessboard. I think you've misread it as a "cheeseboard".

On the last step thingo?

[LGS]

Hi Muz,

For the last step, you might be best to use a Wipe On Poly (WOP)type of product. Use a satin WOP and you'll have a well oiled, protected, satin finish chessboard!:) You can get WOP at Bunnings.

Regards,

Rob

[Muz G]

Hi Muz,

For the last step, you might be best to use a Wipe On Poly (WOP)type of product. Use a satin WOP and you'll have a well oiled, protected, satin finish chessboard!:) You can get WOP at Bunnings.

Regards,

Rob

Cheers. I bought that from Bunnings and brought it home to do the board and then changed my mind and decided to use the oil instead.

I've not heard of using that over the oil finish. I'll ruminate on that a bit before I decide.

[LGS]

Hi Muz,

I've done this a number of times with great success. You just need to let the oil dry thoroughly. Say for about 4-5 days. Both the tables pictured were finished using Wattyl Scandinavian Oil followed by Satin WOP.

Regards,

Rob

[Wizened of Oz]

Agreed your finished article looks great, but why in tarnation would you go to all that trouble to get a lovely (renewable and repairable) oil finish just to overcoat it with poly. I say, when your oil finish is done, leave it alone except for a periodic renewal with a fresh coat.
If you want a poly finish then might as well start with poly and skip the oiling. But once fully cured it can't be repaired only stripped back to bear wood for renewal.

[LGS]

Hi Brian,

I agree with you about oil finishing, why bother with the Poly. But I cannot speak for the durability of the oil being used . In a high traffic area or where there is risk of spillage or other incidents,with most oils I would recommend Poly.
My own personal choice of oil finish is Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil. It is resistant to just about anything and gives a great finish as well, no need for final coats of anything.
This is what it looks like on Tassie Blackwood.

Regards,

Rob

[austermite]

This has probably already been over answered but I'll chuck my two cents in.
There's no exact procedure for oiling. Have a look through the archives and you'll find many different people's personal oiling regime. Note the common elements found in your search - these will be the fundamentals of oiling.

The main things to me are as follows.
The initial coat(s) is the main one. Put heaps on and keep wiping it off for as long as the oil keeps coming back out of the wood.
I think it takes several days after this before it's ready for more coats. It's pretty much sealed after the first coat so the next ones don't soak in the same way and mostly get wiped off.
Oil is a friction finish - there is lots of rubbing involved. When you put it on, really rub it into the surface. When rubbing it off, rub, rub, rub.

I've heard of oil being used both under and over both shellac and polyurethane. When you use it under a film finish you're really just using it to change the colour a bit.

Many people like to use wax over an oil finish as an easily renewable protective layer. The wax can help to give a glossier sheen, sometimes oil can be quite dull depending on the timber and how it's been sanded.
Leave it for quite a few days before waxing. Once again wax is a friction finish - rub, rub, rub!!

Oil looks really good on Blackwood and sometimes on Redgum but with less sheen than on Blackwood.

Some people like to apply it with increasingly finer grades of either steel wool or wet and dry paper to get the final surface really smooth and glass like.

Oil is basically pretty foolproof. About the worst thing you can do is to not rub it off in time. If this happens put more oil on and rub it off hard straight away.

I haven't used Organoil products but I get the impression that they need to be really burnished with a lot of hard rubbing compared to other oils.

I hope this is of some help and I haven't gone on too much.

Pictures please!

Regards

Gerard