fiting door jambs

[ChrisH]

This is probably a really dumb question, but...
for an internal doorway in a new stud frame wall, do you fit the door jambs first then fit plasterboard up to them, or plaster first then fit the door jambs later?
I'd fit the jambs first but have had a mental blank as to whether that would be correct.

Thanks

Chris

[bilbo]

Chris,

By "door jambs" I'm assuming you mean "door frames". The door jamb is the bit in the middle of a door frame - about 45 mm wide and about 16mm thick - against which the door closes.

Having done a few, but I'm not a builder, I've found you can do it either way. BUT - there are pros and cons. You could mark the door frame with white gyprock scratches when fitting the plasterboard after fitting the frame into the stud wall. Not much of a problem, just a clean up issue.
But it's easier to cut the plasterboard right up to the stud wall if the door frame isn't already fitted into the wall.
But again, once the plasterboard is on, one could shake a few panels loose when banging big nails into the door frame and stud wall when one is securing the frame into the stud wall.

Not much in it either way really. I've done it both ways, but generally fit the door frame AFTER the plasterboard.

Bilbo

[johnmc]

Fit after the plasterboard. In addition to the points mentioned by bilbo, this will allow you to accurately measure the width of the frame before fitting which will subsequently give you a good fitting architrave.

I must say I've never had a problem with shaking panels loose after fitting door frames.

[glock40sw]

G'day.

I do Door Frames first and gyppie up to them. It doesn't matter if the gyppie is rough fitted as the door achitrave will cover the gaps.
Also. You have a hard time trying to slip packing between the frame and the studs if the gyppie is fitted first.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton

[Barry_White]

Mick will probably answer this but my preferred method is to make sure the opening distance between the studs is about 20mm larger than the out side of the made up door jambs.

Then attach the gyprock to the frame and the cut the gyprock flush with the framed opening. Fit the the made up door frame jambs with the head fitted. The 10mm gap each side is for packing space to get the jambs plumb and square.

Then fix your architraves which will cover the gap, packers and the edge of the gyprock.

Remember the door jambs and head have to be made up to what ever size door you are fitting.

[Jacksin]

Barry seems to have explained the method I most prefer to use, as you can adjust the jamb to line up with the gyprock so the architraves sit flat.

I am confused by Bilbo's description of door jambs ("the bit in the middle of the frame about 45 x 16mm that the door closes against") I have always called the door stop.

Unless its a local expression, I thought a door frame and jamb were one and the same.
Jack ;)

[nine fingers]

Jacksin ,I think Bilbo is on the wrong track.
Door frames are for external doors,normally made from 50mm thick timber rebated to take doors,they also have a sill fitted.
Internal door jambs are normally 19mm thick by the width of the wall,usually 110mm,they have a seperate stop about 40x12mm nailed on to suit the door thickness.
nine fingers

[journeyman Mick]

Jambs= vertical framing members showing in a door or window opening.
Head= the upper horizontal member showing in a door or window opening.
Threshold= the lower horizontal framing member in a door opening, not always used.
Sill= the lower horizontal framing member showing in a window opening, usually shaped to shed water.
Architraves= trim pieces fitted to cover the gap between the exposed frame mebers of a window or door opening and the wall lining or cladding.
Stop= timber moulding fitted to the inside of face of a door frame, against which the door stops when closed, often formed by rebating out of thicker jamb stock for higher quality work and exterior doors.

BTW Jamb comes from the French word for leg - "jamb", that's why it's got that silly silent "B" on the end.

I like to make the frame up complete with a temporary spacer nailed across the bottom of the jambs and a bit of bracing in the corner to hold it all square. Push it into the slightly oversize opening, plumb and pack it and nail it in. I prefer to fit it after the plasterboard is in so I can get the frame flush with the face.

Mick

[bilbo]

I stand corrected, but not subdued, we will fight them on the beaches, in the valleys and towns, on the hills, we will never surrender,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ;)


Bilbo