Victa mower won't start

[StuMetz]

Hi all. New member from the UK so please be gentle. I've got a Victa Mulchmaster 550 2 stroke mower. Fantastic machine. However it currently won't start. Spark was weak so changed spark plug, still weak so put a new coil on (luckily I have a spares machine). now strong spark. Stripped down the carb, seems fine and plug getting wet. Checked exhaust, fine. Cylinder head gasket fine. Changed rubber o ring underneath the starter recoil. Even changed the fuel, getting desperate. Any ideas would be very much appreciated. Stu.

[andrewr79]

Hi Stu

Welcome to the forums!

Silly questions - checked for a kink in the fuel line? I've seen a tiny crease stop so many Victa's it's not funny. Not worked one of this model but the older ones a lot, so anything I get wrong I'm sorry for!

I've seen the lead from the choke to the motor break so it never got in the right place to start, I've seen someone leave the fuel valve open for a week and flood it so much it took 30 pulls with the valve closed to clear it out and then you could re-prime and start it, I've seen the pull cord looking like it's working but not turning the inside mechanism. All worthwhile checking but it sounds like you may have gone over the engine well so may have already done so.

I've also seen someone put raw petrol into one of these, no oil mixed in because they though it was a 4 stroke like they were used too, and I've seen people with issues due to certain places ethanol, but you've already swapped the fuel so thats out.

Nothing jamming the blades underneath to stop it turning and kicking over?

Cheers
Andrew

[artme]

Get a can of "Start Ya Bastard" Never found a recalcitrant motor that it won't get going!

[The Bleeder]

Hi and welcome Stu.

What Atrme said or a can of areostart. Same stuff should be the same result. Definitley gets my old Victa runnning.

[StuMetz]

Thanks Andrew and Artme. Will check for kinks in the pipe but I think petrols getting through as the plugs getting wet. Starter and engine spinning as normal just no:rotfl::rotfl:t starting.
Will also get a can of starter spray. Only in Australia would you get a product called "start ya bastard". My wife and I are still laughing. Cheers for advice. Keep it coming. Stu

[StuMetz]

Cheers bleeder. Gonna get some tomorrow and give it a try. Cheers Stu.

[MICKYG]

Stu

Stale fuel will give the symptons you describe.

Regards Mike:wink:

[StuMetz]

Hi mike. The very last thing I tried today was to change the fuel. Still wouldn't go. Thanks anyway. Stu

[RETIRED]

Have you checked that there is no air leak in the crankcase?

[Foo]

Also have you tried putting fuel straight into the bore, through spark plug hole? If it fires up you know spark is good! :wink:

There may also be a filter in the fuel tank, over the fuel out let hole.:)

[StuMetz]

Thanks for replying foo and . Checked cylinder head gasket and rubber o ring under starter pulley which are ok. How do I check for an air leak in the crank casing? And how much fuel should I pour into the spark plug hole? Cheers Stu

[joe greiner]

Check for crud in the fuel line too. I had a different brand that presented similar symptoms. It turned out the manufacturer used a wrong type of rubber that shed bits of itself. New fuel line (of proper material) cured it.

Cheers,
Joe

[RETIRED]

Thanks for replying foo and . Checked cylinder head gasket and rubber o ring under starter pulley which are ok. How do I check for an air leak in the crank casing? And how much fuel should I pour into the spark plug hole? Cheers StuFirst signs are generally an oil weep or damp patch around the joints. The seal around the shaft can also wear and let air in.

[Cliff Rogers]

Get a big hammer & give it a flogging, that'll make it start. :2tsup:

[fxst]

what Artme said start you bastard works every time. :2tsup:If it still won't start buy a new one and have a victa burning party for the old one :D
pete

[Durdge39]

Is your exhaust OK? Two strokes require a certain amount of backpressure to contain the fuel/air mix in the cylinder while the piston travels past the exhaust outlet. Usually this would only make them run like a dog while you still get some firing but it's worth a check. Also, are you using the right starting procedure? I have a thorough distaste for 2T as each one seems to have it's own particular starting method. Usually choke on until it fires then choke off with throttle cracked works for me.

One last thought is compression, while I wouldn't expect the compression to be great, if there is almost nothing you might have gummed up rings which are just letting the compressed fuel/air mix right back into the crank case.

Best of luck!
Tom.

[chrisb691]

Turn the bastard upside down so it thinks it's in the antipodes. :D

[MICKYG]

As you have checked almost every thing else CHECK ignition timing.

Regards Mike:wink:

[malb]

You mentioned the O ring between the starter and the crankcase. This indicates that the motor has a canterlever crankshaft, as Victa have used for about 30 years or more in their 2 strokes.

These also have a vacuum operated decompression valve mounted vertically in the head under the shroud. A spring and diaphagm system leaks off some of the primary compression when you are tryin to pull start the motor, once the motor fires and attains idle speed, vacuum from the carby works against the diagragm and closes the valve. If the unit has done a lot of work, or has had a few runs heavily overoiled, it can develop carbon buildup in the valve preventing it from sealing properly. Or the vacuum line that controls it can become dislodged or swollen over time, leaving it open via spring pressure.

The valve can be removed and replaced as a temporary measure with a spare spark plug to check whether the valve is faulty. However I know from experience that this should increase compression significantly, and significantly shorten starter cord life.
If swapping for a spark plug gets it going, look at replacing the decomp valve ASAP.