Rust Prevention Product Review - Your Help & Input appreciated

[simonmags]

Rust Prevention Product Review - Your Help Input appreciated

I have been reading through the forums on rust prevention and see that it has not been covered for at least a month :) There seem to be so many differeing opionions so I though it was time to open another place where, everyone, can have there say about different products.

I'd love to hear from anyone that has used any of the following and is able to give a brief review any of these products: (I may have some of the categories wrong, let me know if so :)

Oil Based products:
Linseed Oil
3 in 1 Oil
Boiled Linseed Oil
Vegetable Oil

Lanolin based Products:
Inox
Lanox
Lanogard
Lanotec

Wax Based Products:
Ubeaut Traditional Wax
Black Bison Fine Wax

VCI Products:
(Vapour Corrosion Inhibitors)
ZeRust Drawer Liners
ZeRust Vapour Capsules

Other:
Sliver Glide (Silber Gleit)
Boesheild T9
G15
WD-40
Talcum Powder
Wax paper
Silicon Spray (This will adversly affect some wood finishing i.e. glue and varnish don't stick to it)

[RossM]

Interestingly, I helped my daughter with her year 9 science project late last year, and she picked rust prevention as the topic.

I don't have the project to hand, but this is my recollection. She tested vegetable oil, camelia oil, vasoline, lithium grease, WD-40 and G15 The experiment was fairly crude empirical effort, with the results based purely on observation, not any sort of objective measurement. A pack of 6" bright iron nails was purchased, the nails were soaked in solvent for a while (Shellite as I recall) to remove any grease, then washed in detergent, then boiled to get rid of any residue, then they were dried using a hair dryer.

Preventative treatment was applied to to 2 nails each (14 nails in total, as one pair was left untreated as a "control") and allowed to sit for a couple of hours.

The nails were pierced through dampened blotting paper to keep them separated an equal distance & to allow an ID number to be placed on each nail (so we could tell which treatment had been applied to which nail). These were then placed inside a large plastic tub with a close fitting lid, with a layer of damp sponge on the bottom. The whole lot was misted with a fine spray of quite salty water. The tub was left in a warm area of the house & provided high humidity. When coupled with the salt spray this was a pretty hostile environment, designed to encourage rust.

Observations were made every 12 hours over several days. Results were interesting. The lithium grease actually seemed to exascerbate the rust, and by the end the lithium grease coated nails were more deeply covered in rust than the untreated controls. WD-40 and vegetable oil seemed to offer only marginal protection. Camelia oil was slightly better - and about the same as vasoline. However all the nails had considerable rust at the end of the observations.

The Ferro-Pak G15 was a standout. There were a few very small spots of rust developing on one nail, otherwise they remained bright & shiny. This has born out my experience of G15 as being far & away the best anti rust treatment I have used. (And no, I don't have any affiliation with the product other than as a user)

[WillyInBris]

You didn't mention Lanotec :2tsup:

[simonmags]

I'll mention it if you review it :)

[WillyInBris]

I'll mention it if you review it :)

Not sure if I can then It would be seen as advertising as I run the plant that makes the Lanotec products and I think that would been seen as bias but would love to hear other peoples thoughts :p good and bad as well.

I do use them though.

[Sturdee]

Not sure if I can then It would be seen as advertising as I run the plant that makes the Lanotec products and I think that would been seen as bias but would love to hear other peoples thoughts :p good and bad as well.

I do use them though.

I would not consider it out of place if you reviewed your products here with your interest already made known here.

May be beneficial for comparison.


Peter.

[China]

Have a look here (post No. 8) http://www.woodworkforums.com/f13/rust-table-saw-125178/

[pixelwebsecrets]

This one never failed me. I usually use it on hard to loose bolts, stucked doors and even preventing water and rust to electronics:2tsup:

[Rifleman1776]

I consistently have had good protection from WD-40 for short term storage and even some long term. I use it on guns and tools. Admittedly, my environment is not as harsh as the experiment mentioned.
Being in the U.S. I use products available here, naturally.
A gun grease known as RIG gives excellent long term protection.
For tools, guns, knives and delicate parts I use a spray from a gunsmith supply company known as Rust Gard. It leaves a waxy film on the surface and has never failed me.
For routine protection on cast iron tools (table saw, lathe, etc.) I use a popular paste wax known as Johnsons.
Ole time techniques involved sperm whale oil with beeswax, bear oil/grease.

[powderpost]

The tables on my bandsaw, tablesaw and surfacer get sanded with the belt sander then rubbed down with Ubeaut trad wax, usually once a year. This prevents adhesives sticking to the surfaces, prevents rust and provides a smooth surface for the timber to slide on. Admittedly I do not have an aggressive environment.
Jim

[Bob38S]

Not a particular type of rust preventative but an excellent applicator for which ever type you prefer.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/cheap-lubricator-beat-rust-103526/

[simonmags]

Handy tip there Bob (what do you soak your felt in?). I'll see if I can find someone with a wood lathe to turnn up a felt holder on :) Or I'll scour op shops to find a suitable tin. So i see a few people out there who are happy with WD-40 as a short term /medium lubricant. (That's what I am currently using to keep my bench planes rust free, they are also in a sealed box) Others who use traditional wax type things on tools such as the bench saw.

WillyInBris any chance you want to provide us with some more information on Lanotech, especially if thats what you use at home...

Thanks for the vote for Lanolin china, you reminded me that I have not included bacon or lamb fat on my list :)

Anyone out there using boiled linseed oil mixtures that can share a recipe with us?

[China]

Just to make things clear the Lanolin product I used was Lanotec

[Bob38S]

G'day Simonmags,

Got a few of them, one just machine oil, one with Birchwood Casey gun oil - which is a synthetic oil.

Re the turned holder for the felt - I think you may find a problem with the wood absorbing the lube. Boot polish tins are good but pipe tobacco tins would work just as easily and would also give a variety of sizes should you want to go larger in diameter.

[DoctorBobski]

I use G15 on my planes, saws and chisels. Even with all the moisture up here I haven't got any rust. A quick spray after I'm finished working seems to keep it at bay. I use Top Saver to clean the surfaces of my machines followed by Silver Glide. This also holds the rust at bay. The only problem with silver glide is if a droplet of sweat gets on it it seems to rust really fast. A quick scrub with top saver and a scourer seems to clear that up. Hope that helps.

[jimbur]

I use G15 on my planes, saws and chisels. Even with all the moisture up here I haven't got any rust. A quick spray after I'm finished working seems to keep it at bay.
Slightly off-track but has G15 reached any of the hardware stores in Victoria?
Cheers,
Jim

[Mr Brush]

I doubt it......I always stock up at the WWW shows (Sydney & Canberra) from either Jim Davey or Chris Vesper.

I use G15 for just about everything, and 4 cans just about lasts me between shows :D

[jimbur]

I doubt it......I always stock up at the WWW shows (Sydney & Canberra) from either Jim Davey or Chris Vesper.
I use G15 for just about everything, and 4 cans just about lasts me between shows :D
I'll have to get out more.
Cheers,
Jim

[RossM]

Australian Inhibitor is the company that supplies G15 - here is the link (http://www.australianinhibitor.com.au/news/31/ferro-pak-g15.html) You can get it in 200 litre drums :oo::oo::oo:

Chris Vesper sells it from his web site (https://www.vespertools.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=33&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=34), as does The Woodworks (http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1723&category_id=137&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=91)

Bynorm (garden & outdoor machinery wholesaler) had it for about $7 per can a while ago, you needed to buy a carton (12 cans) & know someone with a wholesale account. Thir dealers should be able to order it, but you will then need to pay soem sort of markup on the wholesale price.

EDIT - here is a link to Bynorm (http://www.bynorm.com.au)& here is pricing (http://www.bynorm.com.au/images/uploaded/File/New_product.pdf)from a few years back. They also have Lanox on this cattledog page at a good price!! (Prices will - I guess - have increased :( )

[jimbur]

Thanks Ross,
Jim

[DoctorBobski]

Got my can from Carbatec. Not in the catalogue that I can find though.

[rsser]

Good to know.

AFAIK the stuff can't be posted, only couriered, cos its flammable.

Still worth it though in my book; have been through a range of stuff and G15, along with TopSaver, is proving the best.

[fletty]

I use Topsaver if there is rust or an abrasive pad on an old sander if there is only dried glue. I then finish with Ubeaut Traditional wax using another abrasive pad on the sander.
fletty

[simonmags]

Sounds like G15 and Top Saver are ticking a few boxes, still curious to hear from anyone that uses Boiled Linseed Oil based stuff.

Cheers All

[spartan]

old post I know but...what about unscented baby oil - its the same as machine oil, and home brand version is really cheap. I use it to give an initial wipe down to hand tools/chisels etc.

[simonmags]

I'll keep that one in mind, I would have thought the markup on anything with the word baby in it was pretty huge, but if it's cheaper than machine oil that's good.

Someone told me that Silber Gliet (or Silver Glide if you prefer) is a Silicon Based product and that while it's okay to use on first pass machine like the table saw it should be kept away from finishing machines like the planer and hand planes etc... Any thoughts on that? Obviously if it was silcon based then finishes would not adhere to it correctly...

[RossM]

I think the major difference between light oils and purpose developed rust preventatives are things like water displacement, ability to dry & leave a protective film on the surface, lack of oxydising agents, and in some cases the inclusion of chemicals that slow the ionisation process.

The problem with many light oils is that they can seal in moisture that is already on the metal surface, and while slowing the rusting, will not be as effective. They may also include oxidising agents, contain acids, be susceptible to dissolving oxygen or not be effective in sealing out atmospheric oxygen or moisture; all this leading to rust formation.

[Boringgeoff]

I use a lubricant/penetrant called L10 made by Industrial Chemical Technologies in Perth. I bought a 5 litre container from Atom Supply in Welshpool.
G.

[orraloon]

For the last 30 plus years I have used WD40 as a short term rust preventer but more often to clean rust off things. I use 3 in 1 to keep rust away. On saw tables and lathe bed I degrease them and rub on any wax polish I have to hand. I mean propper cabinet wax in a tin not the spray stuff. I have never bought a purpose made rust inhibitor only used what was already in the shed. There is no magic rust preventor that lasts forever. Rust prevention is about regular checks and cleaning as required for the climate you live in.
Regards
John

[Ratbag]

I've a friend who's a gunsmith that absolutely adores WD40, CRC et. al.

He states they're great for business, meaning that firearms liberally dosed with the above inevitably come in for repair, through longer term corrosion damage and general gunk buildup that inhibits automatic extraction/reload/cocking mechanisms.

According to Moz, these type of products, while excellent at penetrating and freeing up frozen parts, use both hydrocarbon and water based solvents. He recommends INOX as a superior alternative, as there's a lessened likelihood of corrosion damage.

Camellia oil is also a time honoured rust preventative for carbon steel hand tools, but I find it a bit gunky & sticky. I use stainless steel wool "curly girl" pads to clean and a dab of engine oil to protect my hand plane soles when stored after use. Less is more in these circumstances, unless you like oil smears on your workpieces.

Those lanolin-based products available on the domestic market aren't bad either. I've had good results on my cast iron planer/thicknesser bed (lanotec), and add a light rub of hard wax prior to each use.

Boiled Linseed oil leaves a lovely finish on (unvarnished) wooden handles. It's used on everything from kitchen knives to garden tools.

[Mr Brush]

I've noticed that the best gun oils tend to have silicone in them.......:(

WD40 is also the culprit behind a lot of damage to bearings - being mostly kero it is great for removing grease and foreign particles from bearings, but it isn't a very good lubricant in it its own right. The old 3 in 1 oil or Singer sewing machine oil is good for small bearings as found on router bits, etc.

[Bryanatkinson]

old post I know but...what about unscented baby oil - its the same as machine oil, and home brand version is really cheap. I use it to give an initial wipe down to hand tools/chisels etc.

I think baby oil is not exactly the same with machine oil. From my experience, baby oil has low viscosity which is OK for submerge something into it but not quite good when you apply the oil onto metal surface.

About the vegetable oil, there is some water and oxidizing agent in the oil so it won't be perfect, just passable.

[Chris Vesper]

Seeing as I seem my name mentioned I thought to poke my head up with some extra info.

The G15 was developed for the Auto industry but has found uses in just about any place you can think of corrosion protection of clean metal.
And that quite frankly is the simple explanation as to why it works so well. Nothing more need be said.


But here's some more anyway:
The company that developed and make it (Australian Inhibitor) are based in Melbourne, and wholly Australian owned you might be pleased to know.
They are predominantly an R&D and auto manufacturing supply business hence why people like me, and other distributors like CarbaTec, and Jim Davey, and so on sell the G15 to you guys. Aus Inhib is not into marketing and selling small Qty's to the public, which is where I come in.

Enjoy!