Ed wood
28th September 2010, 10:04 AM
Hi all,
I am using a very easy to apply finish of mainly Scandanavian oil (Feast Watson) plus a little bit(-10-15%) of marine varnish plus 5% turps.
You simply apply with a rag then wipe/buff (by hand) off after about 2-3 min (depends on ambient temp) or once it starts to go tacky.
I sand to 400 first.
I am using it on Jarrah.
I only apply on sunny days with low humidity.
What I have noticed is that sometimes the feel is a bit rougher than when i initially finished sanding it to 400.
So i am wondering
1) Is the grain lifting
2) Can I sand with a higher grit after the finish has dried completely to give a smoother feel
3) Do I need to use a wax or another type of product on top to give a smoother feel.
I have only ever applied 5 coats , but I am pretty sure another 5 or so coats would pretty much fill the grain entirely perhaps due mainly to the varnish content?
I have heard different things about steel wool here and among other woodworkers I know and the consensus seems to be to only use it on "filled" grain tops to avoid any catching of the wool which can be virtually impossible to remove and give discolouration once it oxidises.
Any advice greatly appreciated
Cheers
Ed
I am using a very easy to apply finish of mainly Scandanavian oil (Feast Watson) plus a little bit(-10-15%) of marine varnish plus 5% turps.
You simply apply with a rag then wipe/buff (by hand) off after about 2-3 min (depends on ambient temp) or once it starts to go tacky.
I sand to 400 first.
I am using it on Jarrah.
I only apply on sunny days with low humidity.
What I have noticed is that sometimes the feel is a bit rougher than when i initially finished sanding it to 400.
So i am wondering
1) Is the grain lifting
2) Can I sand with a higher grit after the finish has dried completely to give a smoother feel
3) Do I need to use a wax or another type of product on top to give a smoother feel.
I have only ever applied 5 coats , but I am pretty sure another 5 or so coats would pretty much fill the grain entirely perhaps due mainly to the varnish content?
I have heard different things about steel wool here and among other woodworkers I know and the consensus seems to be to only use it on "filled" grain tops to avoid any catching of the wool which can be virtually impossible to remove and give discolouration once it oxidises.
Any advice greatly appreciated
Cheers
Ed