Finishing to a high gloss ?'s

[chrapladm]

I just have a few questions for I am learning a lot as I mess up and read others builds.

I have hand stained some hoop pine with a Jarrah dark tint and brushed on the finish. I just have 2 coats of finish and wanted to know how do I get finish around a 1500 or so grit smooth and not have white sanding marks?

I have seen others use soapy water and sand with a light spray and get amazing results but do I have enough coats to start sanding to this git yet?

I have also let the finish cure now for almost 3 days. I figure when I finally start sanding to the nice smooth finish I will wait atleast 4-5 days then sand. Just me .

Here is the products I have used this time:

Feast Watson Prooftint pine sealer
Feast Watson Prooftint Jarrah
Feast Watson glossproof

I would take some pictures but the camera needs to be charged.

Thanks for any guidance.

[mic-d]

Not that I have used that product, I do use FW floor seal and buffing oil and shellac and 0000 steel wool rubbed wax, but I have some comments that may help.
You will not restore the same level of gloss after rubbing as straight from the can.
You should let the finish cure as long as possible, Flexner says at least a month for a varnish.
try turps as a lubricant and you might want to start at a lower grit 1000 say maybe even 600 if there are lots of imperfections. You can sand in perpendicular directions through the grits to help see that you've removed all the previous grit scratches. You could finish with 0000 steel wool.

Cheers
Michael

I just have a few questions for I am learning a lot as I mess up and read others builds.

I have hand stained some hoop pine with a Jarrah dark tint and brushed on the finish. I just have 2 coats of finish and wanted to know how do I get finish around a 1500 or so grit smooth and not have white sanding marks?

I have seen others use soapy water and sand with a light spray and get amazing results but do I have enough coats to start sanding to this git yet?

I have also let the finish cure now for almost 3 days. I figure when I finally start sanding to the nice smooth finish I will wait atleast 4-5 days then sand. Just me .

Here is the products I have used this time:

Feast Watson Prooftint pine sealer
Feast Watson Prooftint Jarrah
Feast Watson glossproof

I would take some pictures but the camera needs to be charged.

Thanks for any guidance.

[Harry72]

Wait several weeks then buff it using a polishing compound... its tricky to machine buff without burning it.
IMHO poly is not really the gear for a piano quality shine, you can get nicer results by spraying it on thick if the surface is level(table tops). The only time you sand is in between coats, unless you are dulling it back to a flatter sheen.

[chrapladm]

SO are you saying to go ahead and sand with 600 grit perpendicular to the gran to start?

I was confused by your first comment. After using the pine sealer to start I used a cloth to rub on the stain. I used 2 coats and thats was great for me. Then applied the first coat with a nice brush and noticed some raised pieces of grain or whatever exposed. I didn't put it on very thick at all. My first piece of finish I worked with I put it on very thick and it never really cured correctly.

This is only my second build and I believe I have done alot better with this one but still learning.

When I applied the second coat I sanded the finish alittle with a 600 grit to even it all out. Now the second coat is a lot more uniform but I think I will apply one more coat and then let it cure for about a week or so. These are loudspeakers I am building so I might just apply the last coat and after a day of drying bring them inside. Then when a few weeks or so go by I will try and shine these things up.

BUT like I was saying when I did the 600 grit between coats it left some white scratches so to speak and then went away when applying the next coat. There aren't any scratches in the inside of the finish so it looks great but just not quite to the finish I want..

I would love to take this finish as high as I could but maybe I am limited by the way I have done my finish so far??? Not sure.

I have never worked with steel wool so that will be another learning experience

And when using solvent or turp with sanding do I need to make sure there is a pretty thick layer of finish first?

3 coats but I dont want to ruin anything so thats why the question on the turps and sanding.

Thanks.

[mic-d]

SO are you saying to go ahead and sand with 600 grit perpendicular to the gran to start?
Yes. And no. You are not sanding the timber any longer, you are sanding the finish. If you are sanding the timber then you don't have enough build to start with and you are not up to the process of rubbing the finish. If you don't think you have enough build, I wouldn't sand across the grain.
I was confused by your first comment.
My comment? which comment? OH if you mean about the lower finish gloss, if you leave the last coat unsanded you will have a higher gloss finish than if you rub it with steel wool etc.
After using the pine sealer to start I used a cloth to rub on the stain. I used 2 coats and thats was great for me. Then applied the first coat with a nice brush and noticed some raised pieces of grain or whatever exposed. I didn't put it on very thick at all. My first piece of finish I worked with I put it on very thick and it never really cured correctly.

This is only my second build and I believe I have done alot better with this one but still learning.

When I applied the second coat I sanded the finish alittle with a 600 grit to even it all out. Now the second coat is a lot more uniform but I think I will apply one more coat and then let it cure for about a week or so. These are loudspeakers I am building so I might just apply the last coat and after a day of drying bring them inside. Then when a few weeks or so go by I will try and shine these things up.

BUT like I was saying when I did the 600 grit between coats it left some white scratches so to speak and then went away when applying the next coat. There aren't any scratches in the inside of the finish so it looks great but just not quite to the finish I want..
yes that's normal
I would love to take this finish as high as I could but maybe I am limited by the way I have done my finish so far??? Not sure.

I have never worked with steel wool so that will be another learning experience

And when using solvent or turp with sanding do I need to make sure there is a pretty thick layer of finish first?

3 coats but I dont want to ruin anything so thats why the question on the turps and sanding.
If your build is not enough then lubrication with soapy water is even worse than turps, the water will soak into the bare timber.

you sound a bit confused, have you got a good finishing book?

Thanks.
Cheers
Michael

[chrapladm]

I am using this forum as a finishing book. I cant really afford anything more right now so I am just trying to learn and see what I can do.

If I am not to sand after applying the last coat then what do we use for the last "polish?"

I have seen others on you tube go with a pneumatic air sander and they used 1500 grit and then used 2500 and so on.I think they were using abalon discs or whatever they are called.

I only have a cheap Ozito electric sander so I used it for initial sanding up to 400 grit but that all I could find at the local Bunnings. The light sandings between the coats were just by hand with a cork block..

I will add another coat tonight and let it cure for the next weeks. I am sure there is enough finish on there but I would rather just add one more to be safe.

[mic-d]

I suggest you buy this book, it is excellent.
Cheers
Michael


I am using this forum as a finishing book. I cant really afford anything more right now so I am just trying to learn and see what I can do.

If I am not to sand after applying the last coat then what do we use for the last "polish?"

I have seen others on you tube go with a pneumatic air sander and they used 1500 grit and then used 2500 and so on.I think they were using abalon discs or whatever they are called.

I only have a cheap Ozito electric sander so I used it for initial sanding up to 400 grit but that all I could find at the local Bunnings. The light sandings between the coats were just by hand with a cork block..

I will add another coat tonight and let it cure for the next weeks. I am sure there is enough finish on there but I would rather just add one more to be safe.

[Dengue]

Thanks for the book reference, Michael. I found it at Dymocks for $50 hard cover edition

[TP1]

I have achieved a reasonably high gloss with poly u. ( Wipe on poly). Firstly all the grain and other variations in the timber need to be filled with the varnish. Ideally the final coat you apply will be flat and mark free apart from dust nibs.

If you can get to that level, a careful "de-nibbing" can be done and the polishing process commenced after the finish has hardened for a few weeks. If you use a mechanical polisher it should be on low RPM as Poly U will heat up, move around and look awful.

In getting to that stage you will realise that the shiner the surface, the more imperfections are noticeable. It is therefore advisable to apply the Poly U until you are happy with the basic structure of the finish, and rely less on final sanding to flatten out imperfections.

Wiping on thinned final coats after sanding flat could be a good way to get to this final stage. With the surface dead level, the thinned coats should flow into the tiny undulations that you would otherwise see once a higher gloss level is achieved. It should dry quicker too with less dust settling. Some people have even put protective hoods over their work to prevent dust attaching to the surface.

Good Luck and report back with your results!

[chrapladm]

Thanks everyone. I will try and sand flat again because I know there is still some work to do on that after examining it again today. I didn't know you could wipe on the finish. WOW learning something new every day.

I will try and sand flat and apply 2 more coats with the wipe on technique. That will hopefully get me to a more flat(level) finish and then after weeks I can finish to a more high gloss like I am wanting.

What is the cheapest way to buff the finish to a high gloss?

I have my hands and I have a cheap Ozito orbital sander which I wouldn't really want to use on the finish. PLUS I have only 400 grit for that sander. That is as high as I could find at Bunnings. I have been manually using 600 grit in between coats so do I need to manually buff the finish with a 1500 or else?

I am just trying to figure out the last finishing phase.

[TP1]

Once you sand the final finish it will be extremely difficult to get the same level of gloss back. If you are happy with a shiny surface rather than a deeper gloss, sand with wet and dry paper up to 3000. Then as Harry mentioned earlier you can use a rubbing compound - EEE works well and finish off with a wax polish.

What are you making, by the way?

[chrapladm]

I am building a L/C/R channel loudspeakers. I have the sides and top with the gloss. I am trying to achieve as high of a fine mirror like gloss as I can for future benefit.

I normally in the future would be happy with a 1200 maybe final sanding. BUT I am mainly doing this so when I build a free edge table or such I will have had some experience at this mirror finish. I have alot of builds I want to do in the future but only thing I am doing now is building my speakers out of A/A hoop pine plywood.

PLUS the only thing I feel confident doing is building simple boxes for now.

I normally would go to my dad's house and learn from him but living in OZ I have to rely on forums, friends and my own mistakes.

[Harry72]

"What is the cheapest way to buff the finish to a high gloss?"
Car cutting compound, dont touch it with paper unless its 2000g+ and use lubricant(soap water)

If you really want the highest gloss use either 2pack car clear or proper lacquer both sprayed on. These type paints can be buffed to a glass shine(ie piano finish).
2 pack poly like wattyl 7008 can be cut as well single pack poly is just to soft

[chrapladm]

Well if thats the case I will have to try on another build to get the mirror like finish.

I will try and see how fine of a finish I can get but I will try next time to use a 2 pack wattyl can or such. I have to build a sub woofer still and it will be quite large so I thought of trying to make it black with a piano finish but that build wont start for another week.

I might have to find a friend though to apply the 2 pack if it need to be sprayed. I dont have the money yet for that equipment nor the room. I am stuffed inside a shed right now and I am amazed I can find anything in my mess with all the other stuff smashed in for storage.

[Harry72]

If your going for the shiny black box look mdf will be better than hoop pine... probably cheaper too :)

[ubeaut]

Try ths below link:
A Polishers Handbook (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/book.html)
All Australian book and all Australian products for all Australians and the rest of the world.

[chrapladm]

The plans I have to build the sub call for 1/2" ply. I have 2 sheets already and now just have to get another sheet and start building.

So thats what I will have to work with. I hope I can get it to look like a piano finish. Is there alot more work involved with the pine?

PLUS I thought I was going to have to have someone spray the 2 pack on anyways. Tools I dont have or the know how.:?

If I tried to make it out of mdf it would be extremely heavy also. So I am just going to follow the plans.

[ubeaut]

Ply is probably one of the hardest materials to get a really good finish on if you are inexperienced in finishing.

Really check the ply thoroughly before you commit to buying it. Check each sheet for imperfections, openness of grain, etc and try to get the sheets as flawless as possible as it could dramatically effect the way it is finished.

Good idea to check out the link I put in my last post and have a look at Hard Shellac and EEE-UltraShine made for use on timber not cars.

Pity you're in Adelaide and not Melbourne as I'll be demonstrating how to get the finish you want at the Timber and Working With Wood Show next month.

:U

[chrapladm]

I bought the highest grade plywood I could find here in Adelaide. It is A/A grade and doesn't have any voids or imperfections on the surface that I can see.

There could be some openness in the grain that differs fri=om the rest but as far as I can tell it is as nice as I have seen.

Shellac and EEE-Ultrashine can they be put on manually by brush or cloth?

I dont have any pneumatic tools so like I was saying I couldn't put the 2 pack finish on I would have to have someone else do it for me and I would have to do the rubbing for the final finish.

[ubeaut]

Shellac and EEE-Ultrashine can they be put on manually by brush or cloth? YES. Have a look at the link to the book and you'll find the links to them on the left side if page.

[Harry72]

12mm ply on a sub... dont do it, dont worry about the weight subs boxes are heavy for a reason!

12mm ply will flex and colour the sound dramatically, yes you can brace the hell out of it but it'll end up just as heavy and cost more to make and finish.
Save the ply for another project that needs it...

[witch1]

chrapladm
I think you should certainly go for MDF if this is your first venture into speaker box building.
use 18mm and remember that particularly in the case of the sub woofer HEAVY is GOOD
if you use a lighter timber you may find all kinds of resonance problems.

When I built mine I finger jointed the four long corners and used 18 mm baffles inside, the result was very encouraging and I don't think I would use any other material in the future.
The finish on mine was achieved by sealing it all over with shellac ( use extra coats on the edges (as they are inclined to drink it in more than the flat surfaces) and rub back between coats.
When you are confident that the surface is sealed, apply a coat of grey primer, rub back again then check for good primer coverage reapply primer to any area where it seems light on, rub back lightly, then commence your gloss-black coats. Keep applying coats between light rub-backs until the surface feels and looks perfect, and you will have a true (piano) finish.
regards
witch1

[chrapladm]

I am not worried about material as of now. The plans call for ply and thats what I will be using.

Now in the future I will be building another big cabinet for my bass guitar. And I will be using mdf just like any other sub if I built one. BUT the horn sub I am building says to use plywood. Everyone else has used plywood and the sub is simply amazing. I havn't heard anything that even comes near this sub. I dont want to start any arguements I am just saying. BUT for the rest of the standard boxes I WOULD use mdf for subs.

So hope no one takes this the wrong way. BUT I will try and do the best I can with the plywood a far as finish.

Is EEE compound a sort of sand paper or finely abrasive liquid to buff out a finish?

[ubeaut]

EEE-Ultra Shine (cut 'n' polish paste wax) (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/eee.htm)

[TP1]

I am not worried about material as of now. The plans call for ply and thats what I will be using.

Now in the future I will be building another big cabinet for my bass guitar. And I will be using mdf just like any other sub if I built one. BUT the horn sub I am building says to use plywood. Everyone else has used plywood and the sub is simply amazing. I havn't heard anything that even comes near this sub. I dont want to start any arguements I am just saying. BUT for the rest of the standard boxes I WOULD use mdf for subs.

So hope no one takes this the wrong way. BUT I will try and do the best I can with the plywood a far as finish.

Is EEE compound a sort of sand paper or finely abrasive liquid to buff out a finish?

If you are going to continue with plywood then you will have to fill the grain before a half decent finish can be produced. After sanding smooth you can try something like Wattyl sanding sealer. You coat the plywood, sand back smooth. The sealer is designed to sand off easily and to fill open grain - it is clear and although some don't like it, it is effective in situations like yours. you can do more than one coat - sanding flat each time until the grain is filled.

At this stage you will see shiny deposits scattered on the surface which is the sealer filling up the imperfections. Then apply coats of poly U sanding in between coats. Hopefully you should now be getting close to a uniform flat finish. You may still need to put on a number of coats depending on how well the preparation went. Gloss on undulating grain looks dreadful IMO and your aim is fill in any imperfections in the surface. If you can't get it perfect, I would seriously consider a satin finish instead.

[chrapladm]

Well I am at the later stage now. I used pine sealer in the beginning if thats the same thing.

If not I am going to try and get the best I can for the finish I have already started.

Now when I start the subwoofer in a week or so I will use the sanding sealer. I never new what it was for so I never bought any.

What exactly is the difference between the sanding sealer and pine sealer?

[TP1]

Pine sealer is to seal the pine so that it can be dyed evenly. without it , the dye is absorbed unevenly.

Sanding sealer is usually used as a step in finishing because it is specifically designed to sand off easily. When you first wet the wood, the grain is raised and needs to be sanded back, Sanding sealer is an easy way to go, but they can also assist in filling the gaps.

[Dengue]

1/2 inch is far too thin for a sub woofer carcass. At the very minimum, double it up ie., make the walls from two sheets glued together. Needs to be solid to handle the power output of the speakers - you surely have heard the room vibrate with these turned up? The cabinet has to be capable of handling this acoustic power, holding the speaker frame firm at all times, and the walls and any resonance tubes not moving with the sound waves, if you want a decent sound, and you don't want the box falling apart inside 12 months.

[chrapladm]

Well like I said before these materials are fine and when everyone else has done the same build and not had any problems for years I think I will be fine also. Half inch ply with no voids is all that is needed. If I was going to build my Klipsch horns they would need 1/2"ply also and everyone has had them for decades.

Now if I was building a sub out of mdf I would use a bigger thickness. If I was to build my bass rig or HT subwoofer that I designed the Mdf would be 18mm and the front baffle would be doubled up to 36mm. there would be plenty of bracing on the inside and this would follow the guidelines that others are suggesting. I have read plenty of forums and done lots of researching and this is what I want. I have yet to hear of anyone making something that is a better bargain.

But like I said I am not here to try and argue materials. You can all do a search of horn designs and find Billfitzmaurice and see what I am talking about. I am on pretty much every home theater and audio website forum that is out and I have asked plenty of questions. If you want I could ask everyone and Bill that they are wrong and they should listen to you. Then I can cut and paste their answer for you. HAHAHAH

Anyways I tried the wipe on finish for now so we will see how this goes. I am very interested in the EEE compound. Do you use it before you put on the finish?

And would I not use the sanding sealer if I used the EEE before finish?

And after finish is put on can I use the EEE to rub a smoother finish? If so how long do I need to wait before I can?

I already have the finish placed on my L/R loudspeaker but am curious if I can use the EEE compound on them after it dries or fully cures weeks from now. The website mentioned it would have a smooth dry look to it and not a high gloss wet look?.......Am I reading that correctly. So does that mean a super smooth finish but not the mirror look?

I am alright if thats the case because I think I will try and get the best finish I can on the sub and see if I can have a 2 pack put on or start off with the sanding sealer.

Thanks for everyone's comments so far.

[Elill]

Ive been using hard shellac and EEE for 5 years how and its a superb combo.

Sand to about 800
- hot water
- sand to 1200
- IMS
- sand
- sanding sealer
- sand through to finest you can be bothered
- Hard shellac thinned with IMS, sand, again again again....up to you
- finish with EEE

awesome, long lasting finish

oh and I use a $100 mohair mop, well worth it

[chrapladm]

Ive been using hard shellac and EEE for 5 years how and its a superb combo.

Sand to about 800
- hot water
- sand to 1200
- IMS
- sand
- sanding sealer
- sand through to finest you can be bothered
- Hard shellac thinned with IMS, sand, again again again....up to you
- finish with EEE

awesome, long lasting finish

oh and I use a $100 mohair mop, well worth it
If I sand to 800 then spray hot water on or just use a face washer and wipe it on?
Will this soak in to much or will it all become dry after sanding to 1200?
Same question with the mineral spirits about soaking into the wood.

Then sand with 1200 again? Now the IMS wont affect the sanding sealer?
Now when sanding to lets say 2500 does everyone use a pneumatic palm sander?

I want to invest in one but dont know what to get. I just know that I want to get a 6" sander so I can use the abalon discs I think they are called.

Now applying the shellac can this be done with the wipe on method or is there a new method I need to learn?

And from what I hear the EEE compound will take whatever your finish is and make it look like a much smoother finish....yes?

Still looking more at the EEE stuff. I only really know alittle about what Bunnings has. SO I am learning as I go.

BUT thanks again Elill:2tsup:

Oh and the Mohair mop is to do the final buffing?

[Elill]

I just sponge the water on - wait for it to dry, completely - this raises the nap of the grain. Sand it off

I get it so smooth it almost looks like its got a finish on it. Until recently I did the 800+ all by hand (hours and hours). I now have a 5mm ETS festool sander, but have not tried it yet. Working on a chair which I'll use it for, maybe tomorrow if I can be bothered. BTW - this is the best sander you can buy......well its either Festool or Rupes, but I got Festool to go with my other gear/vac

The mop is a brush, a special artists paint brush, very soft and fine bristle, you can get cheaper ones for about $40 from any high end artists shops (not Riot)

I use a swandown mop (a buffing thing fitted to a drill) to buff off the EEE

Get a copy of the polishers handbook, read it, then speak with the guys at ubeaut when you buy the EEE, thats all I did and I get a ripping finish these days.....time consuming though

[chrapladm]

Elill are you on the AVS site?

I saw a user name that was on the Anarchy TH build. Just wondered if you were the same.

That festool is a bit pricey so I will have to wait for that one. If I tried to hand 800 sand the sub that would take a very very long time so I might have to look into a pneumatic hand sander or a cheaper option. Festool is a bit out of my price range.

[Darklord]

Sand to about 800
- hot water
- sand to 1200
- IMS
- sand
- sanding sealer
- sand to 1200
- sand through to finest you can be bothered
- Hard shellac thinned with IMS, sand, again again again....up to you
- 3 -4 coats more if needed
- sand with lightly with 1200 grit (if needed) to remove any brush marks
- finish with EEE preferably using a Swan Down buff

Neil says, "Before you start get a really, really, good brush" and you won't find it at the local Bunnies. Take the time to read the instructions for EEE and Hard Shellac or whatever else you decide to use. Most manufacturers go to great pains to spell out how to use their products. Most users go to great pains to do it their own way. Then blame everyone but themselves for the poor finish.

Try HERE (http://www.woodworkforums.com/f212/data-information-instruction-sheets-96907/) in the Forum Library for Info Sheets from U-Beaut Polishes and read them properly if you decide to use their products.same for Organoil, Wattyle, Feast Watson or whoever else's product(s) you decide to use. Also do yourself a favour and get a copy of Neil's book you will learn a lot and it's a really great read to boot.

Darky

[TP1]

As has been mentioned earlier in the thread, polyurethane is not the hardest finish (apart from 2 pack) so you can usually only get it to shine to a certain degree.

However, as Poly U is essentially a plastic, I have found by using plastic specific compounds you can get it to a higher gloss level - higher than where EEE and others can get to on poly u.

You will get a good workout doing it, but compounds designed to polish and remove scratches in plastic work wonders on polyurethane once it's cured. After all, to achieve a gloss is simply to remove the scratches that are already present. These hi-tech compounds from 3M and others ( even the Meguirs one works well) are much finer than tripoli powder and automotive rubbing compounds. Being finer means it needs elbow grease , and I use a Festool Rotex on slow speed for the initial rubbing, backed by a lot of hand rubbing

I have achieved very high gloss levels on Jarrah and Sheoak coffee tables when I was looking for something glossier than could ordinarily be achieved from wipe on poly.

[Elill]

Elill are you on the AVS site?

Yep same guy.

As to the not using hot water and IMS......I am a huge fan of this. I cannot get it nearly as smooth without it and I am talking about a smoothness that lasts and lasts and lasts. By the time I am ready to apply the finish the timber already as a high shine to it, infact a simple waxing can make it look very good....depends on the timber of course, but most aussie hardwoods I've used, jarrah and spotted gum come up a treat. Saying that, the hand sanding process takes days on a large peice

either way, EEE is the greatest product known to man

PS I think the water thing is in Neil's book, either that or he gave me the idea

[chrapladm]

Is Neils book the one that was linked in this thread already?

By peachtree woodworking?

[Darklord]

Is Neils book the one that was linked in this thread already?

By peachtree woodworking?
Not sure which thread you're looking at but there is no mention of a book by peachtree woodworking.

No it's the one in post #16 as you would have seen if you had looked at the link. It is also the only book written for Australians that is readily available.

You're getting a lot off help here but do not seem to be taking notice of much of it as you questions are showing more and more.

Darky

[mic-d]

Is Neils book the one that was linked in this thread already?

By peachtree woodworking?

No the book by Peachtree woodworking is the one I linked to, by Flexner.

Cheers
Michael

[chrapladm]

Thanks Darklord for your expert tutelage,

SO after reading the many helpful suggestions and seeing everyone does it different I have tried looking alot more at the website of EEE. Then I tried looking at the 2 pack for the sub and had a window on my comp still open of the link that Mic-d posted of the Wood finishing by peachtree woodworking.

SO when I saw others mention of Neil I thought maybe it was that book I still had on my comp. SO sue me if I asked a question because I was looking at so many things and dealing with just a few other things while trying to learn from others.

And if you look at the other posts I get great help on material choices instead of finishes.:2tsup:

SO I have been thinking about trying to chose between finishing with the EEE for the final rub down or the 3m compound. In theory it sounds like the Elill's method would be a very nice finish.

As I have already applied my finish and just trying to get it better I am thinking of just trying the 3m compound or other. Not sure which 3m compound either the imperial products or other. And I have used the meguiars rubbing compounds before but for my car. So not sure on which would be suitable for my application.

If not then I could always stick with trying the EEE for the final "sanding,"

[Dengue]

Alright, I will put my hand up:
IMS - wazzat? And where do you get it?

Excuse my ignorance please

[Elill]

Industrial Meth Spirits i.e. zero water content

EEE is a rubbing compound.....well I guess it is. I finish the finish with it. So a very light sand on the final coat of hard shellac, EEE and then buff off with the swandown

[TP1]

Thanks Darklord for your expert tutelage,

SO after reading the many helpful suggestions and seeing everyone does it different I have tried looking alot more at the website of EEE. Then I tried looking at the 2 pack for the sub and had a window on my comp still open of the link that Mic-d posted of the Wood finishing by peachtree woodworking.

SO when I saw others mention of Neil I thought maybe it was that book I still had on my comp. SO sue me if I asked a question because I was looking at so many things and dealing with just a few other things while trying to learn from others.

And if you look at the other posts I get great help on material choices instead of finishes.:2tsup:

SO I have been thinking about trying to chose between finishing with the EEE for the final rub down or the 3m compound. In theory it sounds like the Elill's method would be a very nice finish.

As I have already applied my finish and just trying to get it better I am thinking of just trying the 3m compound or other. Not sure which 3m compound either the imperial products or other. And I have used the meguiars rubbing compounds before but for my car. So not sure on which would be suitable for my application.

If not then I could always stick with trying the EEE for the final "sanding,"

It isn't an "either" "or" situation. You should use both as the plastic polishing compounds are only useful once you have already got a reasonable shine up. They then work on the tiny marks left behind.

In terms of which product to use, I look for products specifically formulated to remove fine scratches in plastic. 3m plastic polish and similar compounds are available at marine chandlery stores - they are used to polish and remove scratches from plastic clears on boats. Alternatively the plastic polishes from automotive stores will also work in the same way in that they are designed to polish softer substances, which I think is the reason they work well with polyurethane. EG Maguires clear plastic polish.

[TP1]

I forgot to mention if you are happy with your gloss level after EEE, you can skip the plastic polish step.

[chrapladm]

Alrighty .......EEE it is. So hopefully in the next few days I can order Neils book and some supplies for the EEE.The swansdown mop looks like something I REALLY need to try.

Would this be suitable to sand with after the finish has cured for a few weeks?
230 x 280 mm x 2500 grit Hermes WS Flex 16 Wet and Dry Sheet | The Sandpaper Man (http://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/230-x-280-mm-x-2500-grit-hermes-ws-flex-16-wet-and-dry-sheet.html)
Or should I just use the EEE compound with the swansdown mop?

Figured I could just use the EEE after curing but didn't think the the sanding would hurt but I figured I would ask.