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Afro Boy
24th October 2009, 08:10 PM
I learnt this trick of Lignum so thanks go to him.

If you're jointing a series of panels for a table top, shelf, etc. and don't have a jointer, then you can use a track saw on a guide to do the jointing for you. Here's how ...

Place the two pieces you need to join together next to each other. Ensure that they are tightly in touch with each other and won't easily move.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2782/4038711851_2d0086a9d7.jpg


Place the guide rail a mm or two away from the gap. i.e. leave just enough room for the saw blade kerf to run right in the middle of the join line.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2679/4039462884_63127cd527.jpg


Carefully run your saw along the track.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2482/4038714523_794b8401f1.jpg


Here is what it looks like when the saw has gone down half the board. You will see the widened kerf at the bottom. The top part still hasn't been cut. When the whole thing is cut, the gap made by the saw kerf will be equal on each side allowing the pieces to mate nicely without any gap.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2430/4038715999_1cde7694dc.jpg

Enjoy!

Cheers,
Af.

Lignum
24th October 2009, 08:59 PM
Great stuff Afro:2tsup: but credit goes to a bloke over the other side of the planet from FOG. I think it was Bob Marino.

Works a treat doesn’t it. Just remember to put the “good” side facing down so there is no tear out visible on the top.:)


[Edit- we had this in class today and Kelvin was their, I told him he should do the demo. Funny how you post it at the same time…. Spoooooky :D ]

Groggy
24th October 2009, 09:19 PM
Sorry to say that trick was around before Festo became a company, let alone made that saw. It is normally done with a router. Here's a sample from 2003 (http://www.delorie.com/wood/tips/router-joining.html). Fine Woodworking Magazine, October 1985 No. 54 also showed that technique with a circular saw. It sure wasn't anyone at the FOG dreamed it up.

Lignum
24th October 2009, 09:24 PM
Sorry to say that trick was around before Festo became a company, let alone made that saw. It is normally done with a router.

Funny thing, it’s been around for so long and nobody does it. Good on Afro for “jogging” everyone’s memory:2tsup:

Groggy
24th October 2009, 09:36 PM
Good on Afro for “jogging” everyone’s memory:2tsup:Yep, a very handy technique. :2tsup:

joe greiner
24th October 2009, 10:18 PM
Works on imperfect miters too. Many years ago, by Nawm (Abrams, New Yankee Workshop), with a hand saw or back saw.

Cheers,
Joe

Afro Boy
24th October 2009, 10:25 PM
Works on imperfect miters too. Many years ago, by Nawm (Abrams, New Yankee Workshop), with a hand saw or back saw.
Good one. I never thought of using it for that. Will have to keep that in mind (perhaps with a hand saw though).

artme
25th October 2009, 08:43 AM
Now in the ,e,ory banks AB. Thanx!:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

ash233
25th October 2009, 12:32 PM
I do jointing without a jointer using a different method.

I remove the normal fence from my router table and just have a straight cutter sticking up, then i clamp a really long straight edge to the table (the length must support the piece being machined as it travels all the way through the cutter from end to end). I then set the distance between the fence and the cutter as appropriate. You must begin machining your curved board on the convex surface (so it only cuts in the middle to begin with while the ends of the other side sit against the fence). Keep moving the fence inwards until you have one straight side. Then turn the timber around and do the other side so you are only cutting on the ends to begin with.

Hope that makes sense...i just finished machining up some black heart sassafras boards using this method and they came out great :2tsup: who needs a jointer anyway....just turn your router table into an edge thicknesser!!



Ash

rrobor
25th October 2009, 02:18 PM
Different method again. I glue the 2 boards together gaps and all. Then when they are dry I run the table saw down the joint. If the kerf isnt enough the first time its usually ok the next time. If you use a fine toothed blade it usually gives the perfect surface for glue.

Groggy
25th October 2009, 09:19 PM
Ash, are you running the workpiece between the cutting bit and the fence?

ash233
25th October 2009, 09:21 PM
Ash, are you running the workpiece between the cutting bit and the fence?

Yes Groggy thats right....being very careful along the way.

Groggy
25th October 2009, 10:01 PM
I guess you know the risk Ash, but for the benefit of any newbies to routing, this is not a practice for the inexperienced or faint of heart.

If feeding with the cutter (climb cut) the router can pull the workpiece and fire it like a missile across the room, or, if feeding against the cutter it can pull the workpiece across the cutter and destroy the workpiece.

Experienced users may do it but have a good think about where the timber is aiming before you try it. Never try this with the body in the firing line. Strong fingerboards are highly recommended to keep the work pushed against the fence.

Lignum
25th October 2009, 10:12 PM
I guess you know the risk Ash, but for the benefit of any newbies to routing, this is not a practice for the inexperienced or faint of heart.
.

Spot on Groggy. Could be very scary for a newbie :oo: (scary for me as i hate routers full swink: )

Shedhand
16th November 2009, 07:23 PM
Yes Groggy thats right....being very careful along the way.Mate, that's something I would never do. Sorry! :no:

Shedhand
16th November 2009, 07:25 PM
Different method again. I glue the 2 boards together gaps and all. Then when they are dry I run the table saw down the joint. If the kerf isnt enough the first time its usually ok the next time. If you use a fine toothed blade it usually gives the perfect surface for glue.yep, good method. I've used it before. :2tsup: