geoff.l
21st July 2004, 07:18 PM
I have a big (4m x 1m x 50mm) slab of Port Jackson Fig that is destined to become a table for my "home office". It is sanding well, I've got it down to 220 grit and it's looking pretty good. I've tried some Danish Oil on some offcuts and it looks terriffic. Fabulous swirly grain pattern with narrow dark brown and pale yellow lines. The fig is fairly soft, but I hope the oiled finish will be hard enough for everyday wear and tear. I've used danish oil a lot, so it tends to be my "default" finish. But I do have 2 problems that I'd appreciate advice on.
Problem 1 is with some big holes that I plan to fill with a clear pourable casting epoxy. I've never used these epoxies before, so I'll have to do a few test runs before attacking my precious table, any hints and tips would be appreciated. For instance, do I need to remove all of the loose bits of bark in the holes ? Sometimes they look attractive, and if the epoxy will hold them firmly in place I'd like to leave them in situ. Specifically tho', in one big hole I'd like to cast a 75mm circular hole through the middle of the fill (so I can pass the wires from my PC up through the table). How to do this ? I guess I need some sort of tube that the epoxy will NOT stick to. What about a PVC pipe rubbed with wax ? Would this work ? Any other suggestions ?
I presume I'll have to do the epoxy before the oiling ... can't imagine the epoxy would stick to an oiled surface ... so what do I do about the inevitable spills or overflows around the edge of the holes ? How to clean up so that the oil goes on well afterwards ?
Problem 2 is with some small surface defects that show in the pale wood in a few patches. The yellow wood seems to be softer, and it looks rather like the wood has been scraped out along the grain, lots of scrapes maybe 10mm long and 1mm deep. This occurs in a few patches, especially around the edges of the slab and sanding is not the answer because it just uncovers more defects! I need some sort of grain filler. I've never had much success with fillers (my technique ... or lack of it!). It always seems to look worse than left natural. But this time I think I have to do something so any suggestions as to how to do this under danish oil would be welcome.
Problem 1 is with some big holes that I plan to fill with a clear pourable casting epoxy. I've never used these epoxies before, so I'll have to do a few test runs before attacking my precious table, any hints and tips would be appreciated. For instance, do I need to remove all of the loose bits of bark in the holes ? Sometimes they look attractive, and if the epoxy will hold them firmly in place I'd like to leave them in situ. Specifically tho', in one big hole I'd like to cast a 75mm circular hole through the middle of the fill (so I can pass the wires from my PC up through the table). How to do this ? I guess I need some sort of tube that the epoxy will NOT stick to. What about a PVC pipe rubbed with wax ? Would this work ? Any other suggestions ?
I presume I'll have to do the epoxy before the oiling ... can't imagine the epoxy would stick to an oiled surface ... so what do I do about the inevitable spills or overflows around the edge of the holes ? How to clean up so that the oil goes on well afterwards ?
Problem 2 is with some small surface defects that show in the pale wood in a few patches. The yellow wood seems to be softer, and it looks rather like the wood has been scraped out along the grain, lots of scrapes maybe 10mm long and 1mm deep. This occurs in a few patches, especially around the edges of the slab and sanding is not the answer because it just uncovers more defects! I need some sort of grain filler. I've never had much success with fillers (my technique ... or lack of it!). It always seems to look worse than left natural. But this time I think I have to do something so any suggestions as to how to do this under danish oil would be welcome.